Celica :: 1996 Toyota Starts When Cold And Run For About 5 Minutes Then Dies
Jul 12, 2013
I own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 engine dohc about 150000 miles..when i start the car about 5 mins the car dies..so i start it back up then it dies again.. So I start it back up then i keep my foot on gas the car stays running as soon i take my foot off gas it dies. I did have a new fuel pump in..
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I recently was given a 96 Toyota Celica 1.8L Auto 7AFE and I have been trying to troubleshoot some problems.
It started a year ago when my brother drove it to work and then after work it would not start back up. It sat for a while and now its mine. Problem is I was not getting any spark at all a while back when we tested it. I thought maybe the distributor. The other day it happened to just randomly start after a year of not starting. It made a small pop in the cylinder then boom ran just great until it warmed up and proceeded to shut down, would not restart. Checked the spark and it was very weak (yellow) and just seemed to be a slow spark, not firing as fast as I would think. Today I put a new distributor with a new cap and rotor in and boom she fires up immediately. Let it warm up fully shut it down, restarts fine, shut it down again and now it will not restart. Last time I tested fuel was fine, seems as if I am getting an intermittent spark and usually starts when it cools off.
Not sure what to do now, where to look. The wires seem ok with no corrosion but I have only worked on the 2.2L and I am lost!
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The air starts out very cold but after a few minutes it warms up. A few minutes later it is cold again but then it warms up. This cycle repeats itself throughout the drive.
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This is a great little truck we only use occasionally. It has 145,000 miles and runs great, but the a/c temperature is very sporadic, and this week it is 100 degrees! One day it will work fine, and the next day it will only blow hot air. Sometimes the air starts out cold, but after 5 min of driving, it turns hot. I have had the freon checked and my mechanic said part of the compressor (forget what he called it) was probably getting stuck at times, and he would have to pull it all out and possibly replace...
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I just recently replaced the timing belt and water pump on my toyota celica 1996 st205 (5sfe engine) and now my car is overheating after roughly a 30-60 minute drive. the radiator seems to be overheating and boiling/forcing the reservoir tank out through the overflow hole. when refilling the coolant i had to use some water as the 5L bottle of 50/50 coolant i had wasn't enough. I cant see any leaks, i did see bubbles in the radiator with the cap off and engine running however i think that may be due to the reservoir tank being empty. I had never had this problem prior to the timing belt/water pump change.
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Have 2005 Phaeton with about 140,000 miles. Has run fine as long as I've had it at about 100,000. Last week it died in a parking lot after starting. It keep doing that all the way home.
Next day it started and ran a bit longer and then the serpentine belt broke. Replaced the belt and car ran fine for 10 minutes, parted it and the next day it quit after running 2 minutes.
Seems like it dies right after the computer systems cycle up.
I replaced the left side battery and keep the correct charger on it to make sure its fully charged. I start the car and it dies after a few minutes, then I notice the charger is charging the battery.
I checked the J367 battery control unit and its a D rates 2800 so should be the right one. I don't know if they can go bad. But think it could be the problem, not sure if they can be tested. Called my vw dealer and they say they need to whole vehicle.
The meter on the dash show 14 plus so I think the alternator should be fine. I did check to make sure all pulleys were turning smoothly when I changed the belt. Today I checked the Smoothing Capacitor and it tested fine.
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My 1999 Yukon will start up, run for about 5 minutes at idle then die. Then it will not start again till the next day.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line at the fuel filter. It started up, and the pressure gauge went up to 54. I gave it some gas and pressure goes up to about 60 then back to 54 at idle. I sat and watched it for a bit then it died after about 5 minutes and the gauge went below 50 to about 48. I immediately tried to start again and the pressure actually drops a little while cranking to 45 and stayed there.
Whats weird is when I first started it up, I can hear the pump come on and it kicked the pressure up from 0 to 54. Then after dieing, I don't think I can hear the pump come on, and the pressure does not go up at all. I have a feeling tomorrow it will do the same thing, start up after sitting for awhile, then die after 5 minutes.
Does this sound like a fuel pump going bad? or does it sound like an electrical issue with the fuel pump?
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So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
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I've had my car die twice on me lately. There is absolutely no warning - no sputtering, rough-running- just dies completely. I am still able to crank the engine after this happens, but it won't start immediately. After five or ten minutes, it will start and then run fine. 1990 Celebrity. what this could be and how to fix it?
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When is cold, the engine starts but stops after 2-3 minutes. I can not start until after standing for 2-3 hours, and again stops.When I try to start, signs that would not fill with gasoline.What should I check first, what should be changed?
It was....now engine don't start!
Pontiac Trans Sport 1996,2.3l,16v,Quad4 DOHC
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I have a 04 late model F250. I have done the EGR delete, oil cooler upgrade, and blue spring upgrade. I have a SCT tuner but truck is currently set to stock.
My issue is it starts fine runs good but dies after about 2 minutes. No stutter or stumble. It acts as if some one just turns the key off. I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes and then it will restart. If I try any sooner then it just cranks but will not fire. This started about three weeks ago. At that time I would be driving and it would just die. I could slip into neutral turn key and it would fire right back up and I could continue down the road. As time has gone by the issue has reoccurred more often and now I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes to get it to start again but then as stated only runs for about 2 minutes and then dies again.
I have a scangauge and here are the readings I can get.
FICM main power is 47.5 - 48 volts at all times = good
FICM Logic power is 10.5 - 11.5 volts at all times = ???
IPR is 33% at idle = good Scangauge does not react fast enough to get info at startup.
ICP voltage KOEO 0.25 volts
Start 1.33 volts
Idle 1.11 - 1.13 volts dips briefly to 0.96 volts
ICP pressure Start 900+
Idle 830ish
Sync between CAMshaft and Crankshaft is 1 = good
Have not gotten fitting to do fuel pressure test yet.
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I recently purchased a 1996 Celica. The car looks amazing and drives well. On top of it's reliability, the vehicle is an absolute blast to drive!!!!! However, it seems to be burning oil. I was told to switch from 5w-30 oil to 10w. A thicker weight would work.
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recently purchased a toyota celica gt (96), a couple days ago i went to unlock the doors with the fob, and nothing happened. I then unlocked the doors with the key and the alarm went off! i managed to drive my car home, but the alarm was still going. I was told to disconnect the positive connection on the battery to stop the alarm going off through the night. the next day i replaced the battery in the fob, but every time i reconnect the positive the alarm goes off!
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I have a 90 toyota celica st. I was driving it the other day and it died on me while driving... twice! The second time was going down a steep hill and it was freaken scary for a minute as the breaks were not working, the car started again and I was able to stop! Anyway I know enough about cars that once your car starts it should not die. Could it be the alternator? It seems to start up just fine. I did notice though that when the car died on me both times I was taking a pretty sharp right turn. And when it died every thing blinked twice then out went everything. Im sure that it is a code for something but I do not have the owners manual as I was not the original owner. I just started it up today again and it makes a weird clicking noise before I even turn the key.
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I just had the engine in my 2001 Toyota Celica replaced with a rebuild at 145,000 miles (the original engine was burning oil). It runs fine but now every time I fill the tank with gas and start the car it runs for about 15 seconds then dies. This goes on about four times then it runs fine. After the initial dying eposoide the car runs fine until i fill-up again (i usually fill-up when i have avout 1/4 tank left). Before the engine replacement I had no problem like this. The mechanic thought the problem was the fuel pump and replace it and the filter and inspected the tank for debris. I am still having the problem
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I have a 1995 Toyota Celica 1.8L hatchback with automatic transmission. Car starts shutting down around 100mph. How to remove the governor or restrictor or whatever it is that's holding the engine from its full potential.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Celica automatic transmission with just under 160k miles. It's always been a great car, very reliable and very few problems. A few days ago, it started having trouble starting (engine would turn over and not fire, usually starts after four or so tries) and then will bog down considerably while taking off from a stop until it shifts into second gear. No problem idling, not stalling.
Mechanic changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure, plugs, cam and ignition timing, catalytic converter - all okay. Thinks it might be the distributor but would take a few hundred dollars worth of work to diagnose, plus whatever expense if it is the distributor, and obviously more if it is not. Might it be the distributor?
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'91 Toyota 2wd Pickup, 22R-E Engine. 1 yr. ago out of the blue it would start and idle, but if I give it any gas it would die. Shop had trouble figuring it out, then replaced Mass Airflow Sensor; problem re-occurred after once after this repair, but could not be reproduced at shop. 1 yr. later, driving along and engine quits without any warning. Very hard to start, but restarts once, drives about one more block, dies. Unable to restart; engine will crank and catch, but after about 1 second dies. Tried unplugging Mass Airflow Sensor; no change. Left sitting overnight, next morning it starts right up. Problem seems similar to a year ago, though this time it wouldn't start and idle, it would just start and immediately die. In every instance it was rainy/slushy and cold.
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My 96 toyota celica check engine light is on and I get the code P0340. Also I can't seem to get my reverse light to work what could be the problem.
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Ok my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
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