Celica :: 1996 Toyota GT - Cannot Unlock The Doors With The Fob
Jul 17, 2011
recently purchased a toyota celica gt (96), a couple days ago i went to unlock the doors with the fob, and nothing happened. I then unlocked the doors with the key and the alarm went off! i managed to drive my car home, but the alarm was still going. I was told to disconnect the positive connection on the battery to stop the alarm going off through the night. the next day i replaced the battery in the fob, but every time i reconnect the positive the alarm goes off!
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My camry has been giving me this issue for last couple of weeks. The door will lock correctly using the key fob and by pressing the buttons on door of drivers + passenger. But while trying to unlock only the driver lock unlocks.
The car does not has any starting problems and I even tried a secondary battery to see if its a battery issue. The issue remains the same even the car is started or moving i.e. doors will only lock and will not unlock.
Someone said the Relays might have a problem and I was able to locate the two relays in the fuse box but I am not sure which one to pull out.
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I recently purchased a 1996 Celica. The car looks amazing and drives well. On top of it's reliability, the vehicle is an absolute blast to drive!!!!! However, it seems to be burning oil. I was told to switch from 5w-30 oil to 10w. A thicker weight would work.
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I recently was given a 96 Toyota Celica 1.8L Auto 7AFE and I have been trying to troubleshoot some problems.
It started a year ago when my brother drove it to work and then after work it would not start back up. It sat for a while and now its mine. Problem is I was not getting any spark at all a while back when we tested it. I thought maybe the distributor. The other day it happened to just randomly start after a year of not starting. It made a small pop in the cylinder then boom ran just great until it warmed up and proceeded to shut down, would not restart. Checked the spark and it was very weak (yellow) and just seemed to be a slow spark, not firing as fast as I would think. Today I put a new distributor with a new cap and rotor in and boom she fires up immediately. Let it warm up fully shut it down, restarts fine, shut it down again and now it will not restart. Last time I tested fuel was fine, seems as if I am getting an intermittent spark and usually starts when it cools off.
Not sure what to do now, where to look. The wires seem ok with no corrosion but I have only worked on the 2.2L and I am lost!
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I own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Celica automatic transmission with just under 160k miles. It's always been a great car, very reliable and very few problems. A few days ago, it started having trouble starting (engine would turn over and not fire, usually starts after four or so tries) and then will bog down considerably while taking off from a stop until it shifts into second gear. No problem idling, not stalling.
Mechanic changed fuel filter, checked fuel pressure, plugs, cam and ignition timing, catalytic converter - all okay. Thinks it might be the distributor but would take a few hundred dollars worth of work to diagnose, plus whatever expense if it is the distributor, and obviously more if it is not. Might it be the distributor?
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My 96 toyota celica check engine light is on and I get the code P0340. Also I can't seem to get my reverse light to work what could be the problem.
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The engine turns and air blows out of the throttle body. My fuel pump and TPS is good. What else could it be?
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i have a 96 toyota celica sx which makes a horrible noise when i start it, its almost like a high pitch rattling noise, usually goes away when it warms up but sometimes still making it accelerating, think the noise is coming from area which is in the photo, what it is?
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I did a search and read the manual but I can't seem to figure it out. Is there a way to unlock all of the doors by pushing the unlock button on the key fob once? I see in the manual it can be done I think by turning "remote 2 - press unlock" on in the car settings but it doesn't seem to work. Also am I reading correctly that there are no door unlock sensors on the rear doors? With my LS and my old IS I could touch the rear doors and all of the doors would unlock but this can't be done on the GX?
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I recently purchased a 2006 Ford F-150 XLT and don't know very much about it, nor Fords in general. I was just wondering if there is any way to have the power doors unlock automatically when I shift into Park or turn the ignition off? It has the option to have the doors automatically lock once I reach 5-10 mph, but I can't find any information about programming it to unlock automatically. It doesn't have the programmable computer display, so everything requires pressing a bunch of buttons when the key is turned on accessory and things like that. I have kids who are always in the back seats, and it gets annoying trying to get them out of the truck when it's off and I forget to manually unlock them.
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After going through a car wash my Prius has started locking all doors when I start the car and unlocking driver's and passenger front doors when I turn it off. Kind of wondering how this could happen, but since I like it that way I don't really want to change it back. Is there a way to toggle this and can I change it so that rear doors and hatchback unlock also when I turn the car off?
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I noticed that there is no way to unlock the doors on my 2012 GTI without using the remote ... so it got me thinking what if we lost the remote keys & only had the valet key.
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Is there a way to program the vehicle so all 4 doors unlock from the keyfob/door handle unlock? We have a squirt and it gets old having to reach up to a front door to hit the unlock button.
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I've had this Tiguan for almost a month and 3 times now I've went to unlock the doors with the key fob and it won't do anything. It doesn't flash or make any noise if I press lock or unlock. I have to remove the cover on the door lock and unlock the doors with the key. It still doesn't recognize the key fob. After I drive around for about 10 minutes it starts working again. I've tried using both key fobs and neither one will unlock it when this happens. It's a 2010 with 9k miles on it.
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Having an issue with the R's locks. Doors wont unlock from key fob but they do lock and trunk unlocks as well. Locks work from interior button as they should. Thinking I just need a new key fob.
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Possible to unlock ALL doors when using the smart key?
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I can set the V to unlock all the doors when I unlock the driver or passenger door? I see that setting on the manual on page 524:
Smart Key System: Select doors to unlock: Driver's door or All doorsClick to expand...
But it looks like on the Display Audio system, it cannot be set. Can the dealer set it instead?
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Im having a problem where random doors wont unlock, it seems to be mostly the driver rear door but it also affects the driver door and passenger rear door. The driver rear door is the most consistent.
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Today at lunch break, I'm able to unlock all doors by double-clicking the unlock button on the remote. No more than 4-5 hours later, the remote only unlocks the driver door; it no longer unlocks the passenger or 2 rear doors; car is a 2001.5 Passat. I'm also still able to pop the trunk. Just for the heck of it, I tried my other remote, and I get the same results.
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In the owners manual, there are instructions to set all doors to unlock instead of just the driver's door.
I followed these instructions. Now all doors unlock with the smart key (grabbing the drivers door handle), but NOT by pressing the unlock button on he fob.
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