Celica :: 1996 - Fuse Is Blown / Moonroof And Power Window Don't Work
Mar 6, 2012
I found one fuse is blown. It's located under the driver side labeled "gauge." However, if I replace with good one (10A), it will be blown again once I turn on the power.
The gas indicator and back lights will work in the combination meter. The rests (turn-on check up indicators, coolant temp, odometer) won't work. The moonroof and power window don't work, either. Radio/CD does work. Engine has no problem to start.
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Just picked up a 1994 1.8 celica hatch and it was told to me that the 100 amp alternator fuse blew and there was some issue. So far haven't found any but I also cant seem to find this 100 amp alt fuse that goes in the fuse box under the hood. I don't have old one.
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Toyota Celica 1993 has been in the shop for 7 weeks and now the shop says they have no idea how to fix the car. Car blows a fuse when the car is started. Replace fuse; try again and fuse blows.
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have a 96 celica gt convertible - back window has come loose (have it duct taped) - is it possible i could glue it back myself? so expensive to get a new curtain installed! no one will glue it.also, other problems: antenna motor stopped, ti subsequently broke off. need new top motors. trunk leaks horribly after a rain, coming from the front, behind the license plate or taillights, accumulated under the spare tire about 3 inches of water.
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Headlights work, done and door lights also work. Radio, door locks, and window controls do not. Car will no longer start and it doesn't seem to be the battery or starter, but I may be mistaken.
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Ihave a 2008 E 350 6.0 , while driving i hit a small pothole no big deal the van stops running and coasts to the side of the road. get her towed. The dash lights show the PATS is engaged so it is no start no crank.
The 30 amp fuse PCM power relay is blown. when i replace it it blows as soon as i turn the key. im checking for wire chafing but so far have found none.
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Blown fuse causing a lack of power to the OBD port?
I just got my Kiwi2 BT OBD2 adapter and was hoping to start diagnosing my truck, but the adapter won't power on while connected to the truck.
I pulled and visually inspected fuse #12, I also verified power to the cigarette lighter plug and the accessory 12v power outlet.
The adapter powered up with no problem when I connected to a co-worker's Tacoma.
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2008 Prius. I am just starting to have power door lock system problem. The power locks would not work either with the fob button, the keyless entry, or the door buttons. I have replaced the battery in both key fobs. I have also found the 25 Amp fuse in position 11 of the fuse block located driver's side instrument panel (Power door lock system) was blown and have replaced the fuse. The fuse has blown again after 3 days. I can still start the car with without inserting the key. Why is my fuse blowing?
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So the other day my 20amp maxi fuse for my fuel pump decided to blow, put a new one in & everything has been going good since. Is it just a fluke or is this an indication my pump is going out? I inspected wires off the pump & connections for corrosion & that's good, fuel filter is also new about 2 months ago & I always run #1 diesel with a little additive in the winter.
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I don't know what to try next. I have a short somewhere, just don't know how to track it down. I checked the fuse for the drivers seat and it was blown. I stuck a new one in and the thing blew as soon as I stuck it in. I disconnected the seat motors, plugged in a fuse and it blew again as soon as I stuck it in. How to track this down?
I don't see any worn or shorted wires under the seat. I checked under the passenger side kick panel per another post I found, but that looks fine. I don't know where to look or what to test.
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I just bought the batteries I was asking about in this posting. Bought them at auto zone on my lunch hour today, they swapped them out right there in the lot, no problems. Watched carefully to make sure terminals were not crossed, etc. When I came out of work a few hours later, the #20 fuse for door locks was blown. I chalked it up to the battery change, and put a new fuse back when I got home. I come out an hour later to leave, and the fuse is blown again. I have not replaced it again, need to go get more of the proper amp rating.
No other changes to the truck other than the battery replacement. And that's the only anomaly. No other problems, nothing. Getting ready to head cross-country on a skiing trip, this Friday, so there really is no time to get to the dealer to get this looked at.
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I have a 2001 f350 dually diesel, I was driving it with no problem and all of the Sudden it die when I was checking the problem I not that the fuse for the diesel pump was blown immediately I replaced it and as soon I turn the key on it blew it right away I fol the wires from the pump to the fuse box and there is no wires grounding so maybe I can get a little bit of info to find the source of the problem
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I purchased a 1985 celica GTS, convertible, rear wheel drive. I am having a problem with the drivers side power window. I can raise and lower the window with a direct 12v battery hook up to either the lift motor or from the terminals that connect to the switch. The switch will lower the motor but not raise it. When activated to raise the window you can hear the motor enterguise but will not lift. I check the voltage at the switch and I am getting 12 volts. What should I check next?
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The Up/Down switch on my 2012 Camry SE doesn't work half the time. Of course it works when opening it, but half the time won't work when closing it. I called today to order a new switch and the dealer told me they do not sell just the switch and I had to purchase the entire overhead console?
Can I purchase the switch only. Just to clarify there are 2 switches. The left switch is Open/Close and the right switch is Up/Down.
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I was using a fluke to test voltage at the connector for the driver visor mirror light when I accidentally crossed leads and heard a pop. Now my Radio, windows, moonroof and sliding rear window are dead. I have checked the 30 amp service (601 fuse), the delay acc fuse (42), delay acc relay, and of course the power windows and radio fuses. None of which are bad and none of which seem to have any power. Is there another relay I should be checking? I have read about the battery saver relay in the instrument cluster but have not ruled it out yet. My dome lights, instrument lights all work. The truck also has a Viper remote start.
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My front passenger window switch seems to have died. Where is the easiest/cheapest place to get one right away?
1996 1500LT, window works fine when I use the driver door switches.
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I recenty was having some problems with my 2003 6.0 liter. My FICM connection was not seated all of the way which casued my truck to just die without warning....... AFter I had fixed that, my stereo died. Just dead??? Nothing...EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS???
So, after I had messed with everything I could think of, I thought, OK new DVD/Stereo time.
I checked fuse #32 which was the fuse to my stereo. The fuse is fine...BUT...There's no friggen power to the fuse via my test light. Test light works on other fuse spots so I know i"m not getting power to the fuse #32.
Since I don't have any power to this fuse....WHAT NOW???? How to trouble shoot this problem?
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When operating my driver's side window, it is very slow going up or down. I have to get it go up by pulling on it while pushing the button or else the circuit breaker will stop the motor about when it gets about half way up. Sometimes I have to push it going down also.
When it is very hot outside, and the window is in the up position, it will not go down at all (very annoying since my AC doesn't work). It just does not make any noise at all when I push the switch.
I have taken the door panel off and greased everything I could and put silicone spray on the felts in the window channels, but the problem remains.
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My fuse keeps getting blown, mechanically and emotionally. My 91 gmc suburban blows the a/c fuse every time i slide the a/c switch to any position. when the fuse goes my emergency brake light turns on and my speedometer stops working. one weird note, my engine seems to run very smooth after the fuse goes, to the point that im not even sure its running but it is. So my question is, where should i start looking to fix the problem? It's too hot/cold in here!"
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Can the power window regulator motor on a 96 Explorer be repaired? I can hear the motor make a thump noise but it is bound. I have seen videos on earlier model Fords where the motor can be taken apart and the plastic spheres can be replaced but I didn't know if that can be done on a 96 model.
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What would cause the air bag fuse to blow as soon as I turn on the ignition?
Have tried replacing the fuse and this happens (fuse blows out) each time.
95 3.8L... nearly fully rebuilt.
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