If I don't warm the car up, the car will drive longer. However, once it gets up to operating temperature, it shuts off. The temperature gauge doesn't indicate it is overheating, however if I turn my heat on full blast it does not shut off. I have replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs already and know it could be one of many things but am not sure where to start now.
View 3 RepliesAbout a week ago I was driving my 1995 Honda Civic, which normally runs GREAT, and in an instant and with no warning the check engine light came on, it suddenly lost power no matter how much gas I gave it, and it died going down the road. In the middle of the road I tried to crank it and it wouldn't crank. Very quickly the battery died and I wound up towing it to a service station. I thought, its got to be the alternator, right? But the mechanic said it was my battery not the alternator, so I replaced it, paying $145 for a battery change and a "diagnostics" test I probably could have done in the Autozong parking lot.. 'cept I'm a girl and I don't like to do those kinds of things. Anyway, battery in, all fixed I thought.
I drove it a week and made a 150 mile trip and in the last ten miles going down the highway at 70MPH, same thing. All of the sudden with no warning engine light comes on, it looses power no matter how much gas I gave it, I pull over and I'm stranded. I thought maybe it was the alternator after all, so I turned the lights and radio and wipers off (night and raining) and tried to crank it. It cranked up slowly after flooring it a few times, which really didn't seem to do that much like it would if it was flooded. Anyway, the car cranks, I drive a little further and again.. same thing. I pull over as I'm dying, repeat. Again, pull over, repeat. I tried several times to crank the car by popping the clutch like if the battery died, but that wouldn't crank it. I literally had to turn off the ignition switch, turn it back on and crank the car, then it would run another mile or so. After the fifth time pulling off the road I decided to put it in neutral, turn off the switch, turn it back on and crank it without even stopping and it worked until it shut off again with the same pattern as the first time. I finally made it home and got it to a service station today. I did notice that if I drove under 40MPH it would make it a short distance, but it did almost shut off twice while going to the service station.
I haven't heard back from them yet, I'm just wondering how scared I should be before I call them and i would like to have some knowledge since they told me once after diagnostics that it was the battery.
While driving full speed (55 mph), car shuts off. First RPMS drop to 1 - 1.5 (like being in neutral) then car shuts off -- no sputter or a cough, no rattle or puff of smoke, just kaput! If I try to restart immediately (after coasting to the side of the road) it turns over but won't start. Wait 60 seconds and it starts and drives normally. Have had it looked at, checked distributor cap, plugs, ignition coil and applied dielectric grease in case moisture was wreaking havoc in that area, but cannot find the source of the problem. Probably coincidental but it may happen more often in hot, humid weather?
View 4 RepliesI just purchased a 1995 SL1. It has 95,000 on the car. It was a tow vehicle for an older man.It has an automatic transmission. It runs great but makes this funny noise. When you put the car in drive after having it completely shut off and after starting to accelerate to about 5 mph it makes a funny click clack noise followed by a beep. It does not sound mechanical but like a relay or something. It only does it once. As long as you don't turn the car off completely it does not do it again no matter if you put it back in park. If you turn the motor off and turn the key to ACC it does not do it. No other sounds at all. Transmission shifts fine. What it might be?
View 2 RepliesSometimes, when the engine is at normal operating temperature, it won't start up when I turn it off. For example, let's say on my way home I stop off in a supermarket to pick up some stuff. I'll come back out 20 minutes or so later, only to find out my car isn't starting. I'll turn the key and the engine will crank, shake and then immediately die on me [I'm under the impression the engine isn't even starting at this point because tapping the gas does nothing]. Again, this is a problem that is only happening sometimes. I can do the same routine tomorrow and it'll start up flawlessly.
1) This is only an intermittent problem. The problem doesn't seem to be occurring more frequently, but when it does happen, the engine is harder to start. For example, the first time this happened to me, I got it started after one or two tries. After my latest episode, it took me 11 tries to get it running!
2) After the engine does finally start, the engine will run really rough and shake a lot until I tap the gas a few times (which is leading me to believe this is some sort of fuel related problem [sometimes, the engine will start on one try, but will run rough until I tap the gas a few times]).
3) When the car is cold, it starts up flawlessly every time without fail.
4) The car runs mint! No hesitation or otherwise stalling, etc.
What I've done so far to try to remedy the problem:
1) Changed spark plugs
2) Fuel line cleaning/flush
My Camry has 185,809 miles on the 4 cylinder, it has recently started to be hard to start when it's at operating temperature, has code P0301 and p0302 replaced spark plugs at 185,000 miles no change, possibly ignition coils?
View 1 RepliesI noticed that it seems as though my Mk7 takes longer to reach operating temp than my mk6 TDI did. My commute to work is plenty of time to warm up (25mi) but I feel like this car is slower to warm up (but faster to get cabin heat d/t the electric heater). I just find it strange as here in MA it hasn't even been that cold yet, so I'm wondering how the car will be wen the temps dip well below freezing.
View 7 RepliesI have had my honda for a few months now and have had a few problems in that time. At first it started with the check engine light coming on when heated up but then my car began to randomly die while I'm driving down the road. Every time that it would die I was able to start it back up almost right after it died. Also when I come to a stop my temperature gauge will start to rise and when I turn the car off I can hear the fans continuing to run for about 10 mins. Now my car will drive until it heats up and then it will die and not start back up until it has cooled down. My dad told me that he thought that my main relay went bad but I replaced that and nothing has changed...
View 4 RepliesI have a 6th Gen 2007 Toyota Camry with the 4 cylinder engine with 150,000 miles, original owner.
After changing the car battery, the engine idle when at operating temperature went from the stock 650 to 450 RPMs. The engine does not stall and runs amazingly smooth at 450, but the drive ability from start is jerky and the car will roll backwards in drive on a small grade while in drive.
Another tip, before this issue, when cold on start up the engine would rev to about 2,000 RPM's then slowly drop which I understood to be normal and part of the emissions system. Now it revs to about a 1,000 and quickly drops to 450.
I have a 2003 Corolla with 178K miles and a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with 30k miles. Both make a tapping sound when the engine is not at normal operating temperature (when the engine is still cold during the morning). I've changed the oil regularly on the Corolla with 5W-30 oil every 5k miles. I'll be making my first oil change on the Camry in about a 1 week.
The tapping noise goes away once the engine gets warm. Is the tapping noise normal? I don't hear this noise from our Honda Odyssey, which uses 5W-20). Can using a different weight oil work?
I went out and checked my engine oil level when the engine was cold and the oil level was near the bottom of the hash marks. Drove the gti for around 15 min and fully warmed the engine and waited five minutes and rechecked the oil level. to my surprise the oil level was actually higher! it was now at the top of the hash marks. if I added oil when the engine was cold I would've over filled my engine. I always thought it was the other way around with a cold engine all the oil would have drained back to the oil pan and should read higher when cold. Why the oil level reads higher when the engine is at normal operating temperature?
View 5 RepliesI have 2000 Jetta 1.8t. Over the last few weeks it idles wierd when up to full operating temperature. The check engine code is p0411.
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 honda civic ex with the d16y8, have replaced the map sensor and iacv and still have a fluctuating idle only when car is warm or at operating temperature. it has dc sports racing headers into a straight pipe then exhaust tip. does not have any o2 seniors on it(wasn't my choice was like that when i got it) will idle up and down between 1700 and 2200 rpm also after replacing iacv the car jerk when going at low speeds or letting off then getting back on accelerator.
View 19 RepliesLike the title says my 98 stang will not start when the engine is hot. It starts perfectly when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal operating temp the starter cranks like normal but the engine will not catch. If i give it a little gas while cranking it the engine will start until i take my foot off the gas then it shuts down. after i leave the car for about and hour it will start. I have new plugs, wires, alternator, fuel filter, air filter and my last oil change was three weeks ago. the battery holds a good 12.6v, I had the timing fixed in june. I jumped the fuel pump relay and there is good pressure up to the fuel filter.
View 2 RepliesIdles really high at startup until the engine gets to normal operating temperature and falls back to normal. Takes 10-15 minutes. I recently de-greased the engine and think I may have fouled a sensor...though the check engine light is NOT on. I'm afraid if I keep this the way it is it will cause damage to the engine.
View 2 RepliesI noticed that my Jeep has been making a distinct clapping noise any time the engine is not up to operating temperature. It sounds worst on cold mornings, but becomes quieter as the engine warms up. The noise is RPM dependent, so I'm assuming it has something to do with the engine. The noise is not audible when the engine is idling in park, but quickly shows up as soon as I put the car in gear and add gas. My father and I think that a slightly loose rocker might be the cause of the noise, but we're not sure. A mechanic friend of his told him that our jeep has self adjusting rockers so it can't really be fixed without replacing it. I've never heard of such a thing so I'm having a hard time believing it. The really confusing part is that it only makes noise when the car is in gear and the engine is under stress, making no noise when it's just idling, even when the engine is revved. Since purchasing it 5 years ago, we have been careful to do regular maintenance on our jeep so I'm somewhat surprised by it.
Vehicle Info:1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo~175000 miles4.0L I6 with stock 4 speed transmission Completely stock
Our 2005 Mazda 3 appears to have a problem with the thermostat. My mechanic read a check engine light code connected with a thermostat problem. My wife has noticed that the car seems to take longer to reach normal operating temperature than it used to (close to 15 minutes of driving). Other than probably diminishing the gas mileage and having to wait longer for nice heat is there any down-side to this problem? Is it likely to get worse and fail altogether? The shop guesstimates it will cost around $150.00 to replace.
View 15 RepliesI have a 2004 f150 with 135000 miles. Bought it a few months ago. I notice after the truck is up to operating temperature it seems to have a slight miss, you can kind of feel it when sitting in the truck. Cant really hear it. Outside the truck I am hearing a ticking sound. I have changed the spark plugs on the passenger side, because that's where the ticking sound was coming from.
Come to find out the last spark plug in the back was finger loose. Got them changed, on that side. Still have the miss after warmed up along with the ticking. Few weeks fast forward I put all 8 new COP on. Same results. I also have changed the oil and filter both with Motorcraft. Where I could look? I also have a 1 year unlimited mile power-train warranty.
I have received a code twice during really cold weather and I think it is P0125. This says that the cylinder head temp. sensor is recording too low of operating temperature. The question is two fold. What happens if you do not change it? Second I have read that you have to remove the whole intake manifold to replace it. Any easier way to replace it than removing the whole intake manifold? I have looked for the darn thing and can not even see where it is located.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1993 Celica GTS 2.2L manual trans. A hose blew on the way to work, got it towed home and repaired the hose. I also checked the Thermostat, it worked fine, replaced it anyways with a new one.
The problem is when it is under stress, in any gear, it will heat up past regular operating temp (all the way to red if left long enough) but as soon as I engage the clutch and put it in neutral, it drops back down to normal operating temp. It will never overheat at idle, only under stress.
I have checked the Radiator, done a flush, it seems to flow fine with no blockages. Also checked the rad cap, no issues. I have gotten the air bubbles out of the cooling system, that did not work either. The only other thing I can think it could be is a degrading water pump. It is still pushing coolant through, but not at a fast enough rate due to degraded blades??Or maybe I have missed something on the Radiator and it could be not cooling the water enough? By the way, this whole engine was re-built 42,000 kms ago, ran like a dream until this happened.
I replaced my fan clutch... Not a bad job, did it a couple weeks ago. I don't drive the truck much, but took it out today for the second time in the two weeks since I replaced it. The fan stays engaged until the truck hit operating temperature it seems. Is that normal?
View 1 Replies