Celica :: 1995 - Engine Not Starting / Ignition Not Creating A Spark
Jun 29, 2011
I have a 1995 Celica that I've owned about 6 months. Great car until it broke down last week. It's an automatic and it spluttered to a stop as I was pulling into a car park (how polite). I've traced the problem to the ignition not creating a spark (removed and observed spark plug while engine turning over), but cannot find root cause. I replaced the engine management system this morning to no avail. A passerby mentioned that the 'igniter' which is built into the distributor casing might be the root cause of the problem.
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Car was parked nose slightly uphill. would turn over strong, but wouldn't catch ignition after long tries. I dinked around for 5 under the hood for 10 minutes in the 30 degree weather, and then after a medium long try, it started and ran. started fine after a 45 minute stop with the nose pointed slightly downhill. Then after 10 miles the engine shut off suddenly at 40mph with no warning. there was never any diminution of power in the acceleration. would not start again after many tries with plenty of revolutions. It did seem the cab lights were a little finicky/dim, but I couldn't tell if that was electrical weakness or just old car cab light switches. didn't behave the way a battery related ignition problem would. no check engine light.
Cop pulled up and wanted it off the busy road, and long story short it wound up at this shop I don't know anything about. the guy there said it started and ran fine for the 45 minutes or so he had it in the garage, but then it shut off. it wouldn't ignite when he sprayed throttle body cleaner into it while cranking the key. I think he said he did something else to confirm there was no spark. he's got his theories about what is wrong, but doesn't want to commit to anything unless he can burn some $100/hr time diagnosing.
I'm hoping it is not the ignition control module, ECM or especially the crankshaft position sensor.
95 GT Convertible - 5sfe
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I have a 1995 celica gt at times the car was hard to start it would start idle really low then cut off this went on for about 1 month. The other day I was driving it and stopped at a light the car cut off and wouldn't restart. I originally thought it was a fuel pump so I took off the fuel line going to the fuel filter and attempted to start car fuel came out so I knew the fuel pump was working.
I then pull out 1 spark plug put it in the end of the spark plug wire and held it against the block while someelse cranked the car no spark was observed. I then marked the distributor and removed it. I looked at the rotor and it was really worn also the ignition coil had a crack on the side of it. I removed it and went to auto zone and found a replacement for $42.00 they sell two different type one for the 1.8 engine and for the 2.2 engine so know which engine type you have. I put every thing back and the car ran fine. However I would like to bring up the rpms a little they do seem low but I attempting to find out what how to do that.
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I have had this car for about 6 months and it already had 1 problem with starting becasue of the key error (easily fixed)
now, like it says in the title it is turning over, lights work, taking fuel, but not starting. It might be flooding but i think that the fact it has a new engine (well I got it changed right when i got it)
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I replaced my 7AFE engine in my Celica 1997 1.8 with another 7AFE engine. The replacement engine had a different wiring harness, so I kept my original wiring harness.
After the swap, I started the engine and it stopped by itself after about 30-60 seconds.
Now it wont start. I have fuel, but no spark. I have tried three different distributors.
I have tried to read the fault codes, with connecting TE1 and E1, but no engine light lights up in the dash.
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I have a 95 celica gt with a 2.2 5sfe engine that has a bad oil leak. I was told it is the oil pressure switch. Looking it up it seems to be a cheap and simple fix.
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So my check engine light came on a while ago and the code indicated my second oxygen sensor. I replaced it and the light went out...for a while. Now it comes on for a while and then goes out. Not sure what to think.
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95 Toyota Celica wouldn't start. Jumped off the battery and it starts but kills after only a few minutes. White smoke pours from the engine area - smoke not steam. I'm selling this car and have been starting and running it a couple times a week. This is the first time it's done this.
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1979 chevy c10.. No start.... 4.1 engine with no spark.... I have replaced everything in distributor including plugs and wire still no spark rotor is turning when engine cranks so I assume timing chain is good
I have replaced Ignition Coil, Distributor Capacitor & Terminal Block, pickup coil, Ignition Control Module, Distributor Rotor, cap, Wires
Seems like I am just wasting money on parts and still no start. Truck only has 50k for miles on it and not driven very much. Just died going down hwy with out any warning.
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Up until yesterday, my 1995 Convertible GT ran perfect. The power steering pump has a leak and the foamed fluid overflowed. I replaced the fluid and cleaned out the engine bay where the spill was. I used a little soap, and rinsed it with some water.
Since then, the battery drains in about 60 seconds. I can shut off, and immediately start the car back up. If the car sits for more than a minute, I just get clicking. Starter doesn't even turn over. I can jump the car to get her running.
I've taken all the wire harnesses and electrical connections apart on that side of the engine bay and cleaned them with electrical contact/wire cleaner. I removed the fender, the lights, the bumper, etc to clean. The battery, alternator, and charging security pass a check at AutoZone. I can run and drive the car without throwing of codes, etc. As soon as I turn off the engine for longer than a minute, it doesn't start.
Not sure what else I can do. I was in the middle of a sale, and now thats gone pending me solving this annoying and time-consuming issue. If I don't figure this out in a few days, I'm calling a yard. I really don't have time to deal with a car I'm trying to get rid of.
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In a matter of weeks, my truck destroyed two sets of flywheels and starters. When the ignition key engages, the engine "jumps back?. Apparently, this causes the starter and flywheel teeth to grind. My mechanic cannot determine the cause of the "jump back". He thought that it might be the timing. His examination and testing, however, proved the engine properly timed.
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Car is a 1995 Chevy Cavlier LS. 2.2L engine, about 127,000 miles. Has a minor coolant leak (freeze-out plug) and a slow oil leak (if I forget to check the level, the oil light comes on about 3000 miles after an oil change). It's beat up, had a few years of poor maintenance (but limited use) before I got it from a relative 3-4 years ago. I do oil changes at 3-5k miles, keeping fluids topped off, and try to remember to change the air filter regularly (which reminds me, I think I'm due for one).
Problem history: About 7 months ago, I had problems with the battery going dead. Some of it related to stupid mistakes--lights on or door ajar. Battery was old, parts store suggested replacing it. New battery fixed the issue. About 2 weeks ago, I tried to start it and ran into the same problem after the car hadn't been run for 2+ days. Dash lights come on, the key-in/startup bell chimes, but turning the key to start leads to fast clicking from the engine and the chime sounding rapidly. I forget if it made any other sounds at the time. Attempting to jump it didn't work, but the other car had an old battery and the cables were kindof cheap.
Called roadside, and he was able to jump it. He suggested taking the battery to Advance, so we did that.Advance charged the battery, tested it, said it was fine. Suggested I bring the car over and they could test to see if it's charging the battery. I did that, and it seemed ok. Engine was a little rough, possibly spark plugs, but I haven't checked that out yet. I figured I had done something stupid again and left a door ajar or the headlights on.Today, same problem again. I last drove it 2-3 days ago. Headlights were definitely off. It's possibly the driver door was ajar causing the dome light to stay on, but I doubt it. Same noises when I turn the key as before, I hear the sound of the engine trying to start once (I think that it's trying to turn over), but it won't start. Haven't had a chance to try and jump it yet.
Possibly relevant: Back in the spring, it wouldn't start one day, but the engine wouldn't do anything, no clicking etc. Neutral safety switch was loose/misaligned. Mechanic was able to make a small adjustment, and it's been fine.
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On cold mornings here in California, like most older cars with high mileage, it makes some ticking/valve sounds until I fully warm up my car after a mile or two of driving. At that point, the sounds disappear.
I've noticed that if I blip the ignition or turn over the engine without starting the car, when starting up on cold mornings, it doesn't make valve lash noise or ticking when I pull out of the garage.
I chalk it up to the fact that I "threw" some oil on top the head before starting up the engine fully. I've only done this maybe 5 times since I found out.
Car: 99 Civic w/ 217k+ miles.
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I have a 90 gts celica, which the motor went in it, so i put a 93 5sfe into it. I took the old distributor out of the 90 5sfe and put it into the new motor. I wasn't getting any spark. So i replaced the distributor with a known good one. No spark. replaced the coil and igniter, no spark still.
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I have a 91 celica with a 4afe engine and i cant get any spark. i replaced the distributor today and still no spark what else should be replaced...
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This has the 2.2 engine with the ignition coil mounted on the firewall, not inside the distributor.
Original not start condition seemed to be fuel related because it tried to sputter on time after it died in the middle of the intersection.
Changed fuel filter, primed and no start.
Checked for spark at the plug wire using a solid wire and touching a ground - no spark on any cylinder.
Tested for voltage at the center distributor cap - have 12 volts - replaced distributor - no spark
Replace ignition coil and ignitor - no spark
The wires all test with the right ohms so I'm not sure what is left to replace.
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As described in the title, my car started to misfire in the 1500 rpm rpm during acceleration, It did this for about 3 days in a row before it completely died. The car is a 1994 Celica GT-S with a 5S-FE motor. Prior to this issue the car ran perfectly. My kids want me to revive it but this issue getting the best of me.
Symptoms: No spark during cranking
* Fuel is getting to the cylinders
* Primary coil resistance is within spec
* Secondary coil resistance is within spec
* Pick-up coil resistance within spec
* Signal Rotor spacing within spec
* Ignition capacitor tested good (using the multimeter Ohm > Voltage method)
* Igniter module tested using the light bulb across the coil method. The 12VDC light blinked while cranking the engine
* Engine ground tested positive
* Spark plug tested good on another vehicle
I'm running out of options. My next attempt will be to swap out the coil but I need to order one because nobody in my area has any stock.
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1987 Toyota Celica GTS 2.0 manual Transmission The Problem ... The power cable to alternator sparked on the side of the engine when I was connecting it. I did not think the battery cable was connected at the time but it was.. Now I have NO SPARK I have changed all the fuses at the battery could not find any that were blown but still changed them and checked all the fuses under kick panels none were blown. What should I look for now?
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My Celica is running great, I drove about 30 miles and the car started hesitating to run, I was in heavy traffic, I could hear rattling sounds which appeared as though they were coming from the heater. I stopped at a stop light and I could tell something was burning out. I have lots of power, car is very fast. I went to the next stop light and the car died, it started and I went to the next stop light with plenty of speed and the car died and would not start again. I tried starting the car for 3 hours, no fire from the coil.
I have no spark out of the coil. I am confident the coil is good. I have 2 coils. I went to the salvage lot and purchased an "igniter" (ignition module). I installed it on my Celica, still no fire out of the coil. I have a relay under the glove box that clicks when I crank over the engine. The engine cranks over very well for over 3 hours. I have an after market alarm. Why do I not have spark out of my coil?
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Car started idling funny and stalling. Finally wouldn't start. Changed crusty spark plugs, started up once, then stalled and wont start again. Checked for spark, no spark. Changed crust dist cap and rotor and ignition coil and still no spark. Checked ignitor activity and appears to be working.
What else is there? There's a little doofer next to the coil that looks like it has two wires come out of it, looks magnetic (has metal shavings on it, probably from old rotor)... Could the ignition switch be the problem? It cranks, but no spark.
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I recently was given a 96 Toyota Celica 1.8L Auto 7AFE and I have been trying to troubleshoot some problems.
It started a year ago when my brother drove it to work and then after work it would not start back up. It sat for a while and now its mine. Problem is I was not getting any spark at all a while back when we tested it. I thought maybe the distributor. The other day it happened to just randomly start after a year of not starting. It made a small pop in the cylinder then boom ran just great until it warmed up and proceeded to shut down, would not restart. Checked the spark and it was very weak (yellow) and just seemed to be a slow spark, not firing as fast as I would think. Today I put a new distributor with a new cap and rotor in and boom she fires up immediately. Let it warm up fully shut it down, restarts fine, shut it down again and now it will not restart. Last time I tested fuel was fine, seems as if I am getting an intermittent spark and usually starts when it cools off.
Not sure what to do now, where to look. The wires seem ok with no corrosion but I have only worked on the 2.2L and I am lost!
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