Celica :: 1995 2.2 GT Check Engine Light Comes On For A While And Then Goes Out
May 31, 2013
So my check engine light came on a while ago and the code indicated my second oxygen sensor. I replaced it and the light went out...for a while. Now it comes on for a while and then goes out. Not sure what to think.
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I run my 92 celica for a good 30 miles and check engine light comes on but after driving another 20-25 miles it turns off. I red the code it was the Egr (code 71) I took off egr valve and cleaned it out idk if its bad, how to test the valve?
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My friend just bought (one week ago) a 1995 Infiniti G20T with 130,000 miles. The car is in great condition, except for the flecking/peeling gold paint (common problem with gold or silver paints?). When he bought it the car had a couple minor issues and had the "check engine" light on. After researching a bit, we figured that the possible issues causing the check engine light couldn't be too severe, given the car's asking price. So, he buys the car and I look up how to check the "check engine" light codes. I manage to get at the ECU and record (with the blinking red light) two codes: #34 and #105 - knock sensor and EGR + canister and control soleloid.
Good news, I told him. Both of those are relatively cheap to fix. So, I close up the ECU access and ask to borrow the car to run a couple errands. So, I go to one store, shop, get back in the car, make another stop at a store, get back in the car, make a third stop at a store and as I'm parking the car appears to start to loose power - engine seems about to stall and lights fade a bit. I rev the engine and it's fine. I (stupidly) go into the store and return to the car which now won't start. Turning the key to the crank position produces "click click click" and nothing else. Radio and lights work, but I turn off all these in case it's a low battery. Again - click click click.
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My 96 toyota celica check engine light is on and I get the code P0340. Also I can't seem to get my reverse light to work what could be the problem.
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I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
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My 95 Dodge neon had no problems it ran, started, drove fine everyday! Check engine light turns on after few drives... Now after about 10 drives the car does not start. It makes a rapid clicking noise.... Called auto shop they say battery, I bought this battery one year ago from them. They suggest i try a jump start. I go to jump start, look down check engine light is FLASHING.... Since car wont start, needs a tow for a car I'm not even driving nor will drive and not worth my money to invest anymore.....
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Just bought this wagon with 80000 miles. AC just stop working, fans and all. At the same time check engine light came on. Is it worth fixing or will I be facing thousands of dollars for furture repairs for this year car?
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I have a '95 'vette LT1 that I bought new for my 50th birthday. I only drive it about 4-500 (yes - hundred) miles a year and for the most part it sits in the garage, gets washed and waxed, and put away. 51000 original miles, the first 40000 put on in the first 1 1/2 years. I've had an ignition and fuel injection problem since I bought it. Get's fixed then some new ignition/injection problem comes back. Here's what it does now: car starts fine, runs about 30 seconds with no problem, then starts to miss, runs very rough and very rich (can smell it in the exhaust). After about 3 minutes, the engine smooths out and 2 seconds later, the "check engine" light comes on and the cooling fan starts to run. It runs fine for about 5 minutes, then "check engine" light goes out, fan stops, starts to run rough, misses, gas mileage (per the dash display) goes to about 5 mpg, runs rich, etc. Then the cycle starts again with the "check engine" light and fan coming on and the car running fine. I have no clue.
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1995 Cadillac DeVille 4.9 L Check engine soon light comes on, battery voltage high. When I increase speed the head lamps get brighter when I decrease speed the head lamps get dimmer. I changed the alternator because that's what a mechanic said I needed but I still have the problen battery voltage high. Will this damage the battery or other components? Should I stop driving the car.
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I have a 95 celica gt with a 2.2 5sfe engine that has a bad oil leak. I was told it is the oil pressure switch. Looking it up it seems to be a cheap and simple fix.
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Recently the check engine light has started coming on every time I drive on the highway. At approximately the 5th mile of my ride, the light comes on but I cannot detect any symptoms, the car runs great. This rarely if ever happens when driving in the city, only on the interstate. My car is too old to be hooked up to the fancy diagnostic machine. What I should check to resolve this problem? 1995 Honda Odyssey with 279,000+.....
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I have a 1995 Celica that I've owned about 6 months. Great car until it broke down last week. It's an automatic and it spluttered to a stop as I was pulling into a car park (how polite). I've traced the problem to the ignition not creating a spark (removed and observed spark plug while engine turning over), but cannot find root cause. I replaced the engine management system this morning to no avail. A passerby mentioned that the 'igniter' which is built into the distributor casing might be the root cause of the problem.
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95 Toyota Celica wouldn't start. Jumped off the battery and it starts but kills after only a few minutes. White smoke pours from the engine area - smoke not steam. I'm selling this car and have been starting and running it a couple times a week. This is the first time it's done this.
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Up until yesterday, my 1995 Convertible GT ran perfect. The power steering pump has a leak and the foamed fluid overflowed. I replaced the fluid and cleaned out the engine bay where the spill was. I used a little soap, and rinsed it with some water.
Since then, the battery drains in about 60 seconds. I can shut off, and immediately start the car back up. If the car sits for more than a minute, I just get clicking. Starter doesn't even turn over. I can jump the car to get her running.
I've taken all the wire harnesses and electrical connections apart on that side of the engine bay and cleaned them with electrical contact/wire cleaner. I removed the fender, the lights, the bumper, etc to clean. The battery, alternator, and charging security pass a check at AutoZone. I can run and drive the car without throwing of codes, etc. As soon as I turn off the engine for longer than a minute, it doesn't start.
Not sure what else I can do. I was in the middle of a sale, and now thats gone pending me solving this annoying and time-consuming issue. If I don't figure this out in a few days, I'm calling a yard. I really don't have time to deal with a car I'm trying to get rid of.
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I have a 1995 suburban k1500 4x4 i just pulled a check engine code 35 what could be causing it to appear? I need to know if its something small or a big fix?
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I was driving home and all of a sudden my rpms are at 3.5 4k rpm wont shift to next gear. I put in in tiptronic mode and shift it to 8 it works fine. Then about 10 minutes later check vsc shows on dash traction control light is on check engine light is on and the light next to the check engine i think it is the abs light. I havent pulled the code yet.
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Just had my lexus dealership do the ELF recall. While it was in there I had them check to see why my check vsc light comes on randomly which sets off the check engine light.
They came back and told me that my water pump is leaking, what are the future problems of a leaking water pump?
They said the check vsc light is coming on, in their words is "found center y pipe, gaskets leaking at front pipe, may still need to replace converter pipe." So what does that mean and what do I need to do?
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I have a 1995 celica gt at times the car was hard to start it would start idle really low then cut off this went on for about 1 month. The other day I was driving it and stopped at a light the car cut off and wouldn't restart. I originally thought it was a fuel pump so I took off the fuel line going to the fuel filter and attempted to start car fuel came out so I knew the fuel pump was working.
I then pull out 1 spark plug put it in the end of the spark plug wire and held it against the block while someelse cranked the car no spark was observed. I then marked the distributor and removed it. I looked at the rotor and it was really worn also the ignition coil had a crack on the side of it. I removed it and went to auto zone and found a replacement for $42.00 they sell two different type one for the 1.8 engine and for the 2.2 engine so know which engine type you have. I put every thing back and the car ran fine. However I would like to bring up the rpms a little they do seem low but I attempting to find out what how to do that.
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I just purchased 8/1/2012 a GEM of a garage kept 95 Celica Hatchback ST with 5 speed manual transmission.
The car was registered and driven until 8/2008 and garaged until 8/1/2012. The proud owner started it and drove it around the block so the car has not been completely idle for 4 years but very little miles driven. 165K miles on this baby. The car started right up and drove like a dream during my test drive and on the sweet drive home.
This morning 1st and 2nd gear acted like it was not getting enough gas (bogged down) and jerked as if I did not know how to drive a stick. But once it gets going is fine on 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. The car idles fine and accelerates fine when not in gear. I reached 80 on the interstate with no issues at all. Once at the stop light the low gear issues persist. Not clear as to what it could be.
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I got a 95 convertible that the passenger quarter window has decided to come off the tracks! got it pullled out and 2 of the 3 plastic roller guides have decided to split in 2! can you believe that? after 16 years they broke (toyota quality just isn't the same!) where i can find the new roller guides?
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So I'm trying to figure out how to properly remove deployed airbags from my 1995 Toyota Celica. I know people just cut them out and go from there. But I'm not the type to cut corners when it comes to repairing my car.I would really like to not have to take it to a shop if it's just possible for me to do so myself. Save time & money & I prefer to do my own work on my own car unless it's completely out of my legue. where I can find how to remove my 2 deployed airbags from my car the PROPER way..
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