I have a celica 1.8 st202 that doesn't start. The efi relay and fuse are ok. I tested these and even replaced the relay with another one.
-When I jumper the pins in the diagnose box B+ and FP the engine starts.
-When I remove it the engine won't start.
-When I remove the jumper the fuel pump doesn't get any power.
A friend of mine have a 94' Explorer with the 4.0 v6. Fuel pump starts for 2-3 sec when i turn the key, stops when cranking and starts again when i stop cranking. i checked the fuel shutoff switch and it was ok, and it have spark.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1994 Buick Century Wagon with a 3100 SFI V6 engine that I can't get to fire at all. I have read many posts with the same problem but haven't been able to find a follow up fix from them. My Buick just wouldn't start one day after running fine before. I came to this site and tried some of the suggested troubleshooting and found, while testing for power to fuel pump, that if I jumped from the battery to the gray wire on the fuel pump relay the car would start and run fine. So that rules out any fuel pump problems or fuel filter problems. I then swapped fuel pump relay to a different similar relay on the car and still wouldn't start. I have read on this site about the oil pressure/ fuel pressure switch being a possible cause and I believe I have found that switch. It is in the side of the block toward the front of car and has three wires, (orange, tan and gray) going into it.
I was going to try to jumper the orange to gray but didn't want to do the wrong jump in case of negatively effecting the EMC controller, usually green/white wire? I also heard of the crank shaft sensor located on the back side of block but am not sure of which of three sensors I'm seeing back there to test. I guess first I'm looking for proper jumping procedure. I tried jumping the gray to orange in the fuel pump relay but no good. I get 12 volts at that orange and for a couple of seconds 2 to 3 volts at the green/white wires at the fuel pump relay when ignition is turned on, so when I jump the orange to gray at the relay it should start as it does when I jumper from battery to gray. I had relay apart when I jumpered the orange to gray, do I have to jumper with relay together and use a pin/needle wire jumper so rest of relay wires are connected? The same would apply for jumper testing oil pressure switch and crank shaft sensor? If it's not the switch or sensor then it looks to maybe be the EMC?
I have a 1994 Ford 460 motorhome with a intank fuel pump that quits when it gets hot. so I was thing of butting a heavy duty in line pump on and just pull it through the old pump can this be done safely. Or is it best to drop the tank and just put a new fuel pump in.
View 10 RepliesI've followed steps 2-6 from this image
I don't feel any pressure in the hose from the fuel filter. I can hear a buzz (guessing its from the fuel pump) but no pressure.
I've checked both fuses, the efi main relay, and swapped out the circuit opening relay with a known good one and all checked out good. Only thing left is the fuel pump or the writing and electrical connectors.
Car has pretty much took a dump one morning and has almost no power. I can't find anything else wrong with this car besides this. Is the fuel pump the problem even though I can hear the pump?
I'd been suspecting that the fuel pump on the car was going bad recently, and yesterday when turning a corner the engine shut off and it won't start back up. At first it would turn over a couple times, but now there's nothing at all. I've checked the timing belt, which is good, and I'm almost positive that there's no fuel getting to the engine. The problem is that I can't figure out where the fuel pump / relay is located.
View 1 RepliesIt acts like it is fuel poor, As if the fuel pump is not pumping. It spins fast on start. Then another try and it starts! No relationship to hot or cold. Fuel OK. Battery strong. I find no corrosion on fuel pump leads.
View 8 RepliesMy R is garage kept, and every morning when I open the door, I can hear the fuel pump make a quick priming run. Well, not "every morning"; sometimes it doesn't do it's two second prime, and when that happens the car usually takes two cranks to start.
(I know that there is a timer. If you have been driving the car, shut the car off, close the door, and then open it, it is not going to prime, but I'm talking about after the car has been sitting all night.) This issue could be related to my door-lock-craziness issue.
My jimmy died on me yesterday on my way home from work...i thought the fuel pump went because i couldn't hear it when trying to restart... I had about a quarter tank of regular in there,,,put in 2 gallons of super and it started, but died again about a quarter mile down the road...got it home with a push...after searching for and checking any fuses i could find...swapped relays on firewall and all seemed well....i heard the pump and it fired right up...went walked, just in case) and got another relay, and now i don't hear the pump again,the battery is a bit low now,,,so maybe a jump would give me enough juice? I'm going to jumper the wires/relay...and be sure the pump is working... I'm sure it is.. 94 jimmy 4.3 vortec 140k I gotta pick up my wife from work later and don't want to get stuck again...
View 9 RepliesA cousin has an old 1994 Ranger. The fuel pump relay, located in the engine compartment fuse box. went bad, so he got a new relay.
Now, it does not plug in securely, so sometimes he has to open the hood and fuse box and wiggle it to make contact.
Ideally, one would probably replace the fuse box, though that would apparently involve a lot of wiring, right?
How to "cob" this up so the contacts will make better? Perhaps something to put in the slots to increase pressure on the blades?
Maybe gently twist the blades so they go in at an angle? Maybe touch the blades with a solder iron and put on a small blob of solder to make the blade bigger? (Though it seems to me that solder is not a good contact material?
Maybe solder to the blades, a very small piece of brass or similar material? Put a piece of aluminum foil over the blades?
1994 Buick Century 3.1
Fuel pump relay is not powering the fuel pump. I was able at one point to jump the orange wire to the gray wire but it will not even do that now. I know the fuel pump works because I can jump from the battery to the gray wire and it will turn on.
I used a multimeter and tested the volts from the orange wire on the relay to the neg post on the battery and it is only reading about 1.3 volts. Is this normal?
Checked the fuel pump 15a fuse and it is ok. I am getting spark. Could it be the crank sensor? How can I test that? (It is above the start I believe). Could it be the ignition control module? How to test? Location? What else can I test with the multimeter and post back with the results to further diagnose?
I have a 94 honda civic. It's been having problems starting. When it won't start you have to pump the gas a lot and it will then start. You can smell a lot of fuel when this happens so unsure if it is the pump. Maybe it's a combination of several things. Replaced spark plugs, new wires connecting to battery. And just put in a new fuel filter. All seemed to slightly work for a minute. But now driving today went to start the car and it wouldn't stay running if I let go of the key. Finally got it to stay on seemed fine then as I was driving and wasn't pressing on the gas peddle the car started losing power so I pressed the peddle it sputtered (kinda sounded like something clogged in tail pipe) and regained power.
View 19 RepliesSometimes after running my 94 Limited, it doesn't want to start - it does crank - like it's not getting fuel. I have found the work around and want to know if it would be fixed by replacing the fuel pump relay.
The symptom is just after starting, it starts to run poorly, and then dies out, then will not start at all. I use to keep trying to start it for 20-40 minutes and suddenly it seemed to work.
It seems the work around is to turn the key to on for about 5 seconds and then turn it off - then it starts and runs as good as ever.
So, is this a symptom of a bad relay? I thought I'd start there because of the cost of the relay is fairly cheap. 1994 Explorer Limited 4x4?
Just replaced the fuel pump in my 99 Suburban. Replacement is an AC Delco unit. When I tried to start it, nothing. Engine turns over but doesn't start. Checked all connections and getting voltage down to new harness. replaced relay from GM dealership and also fuel filter. I used to hear the old pump prime when turning on the ignition but don't hear anything with the new pump. Could it be a bad pump out of the box?
View 1 RepliesThe car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
View 24 Replies94 f250 cold start prob will only start when fuel is squirted in to throttle body/air intakes ?
View 14 RepliesSometimes my Bravada won't start. It cranks good (new battery) and I can hear the fuel pump , but it doesn't fire up. I just got it back from the repair shop.?
View 4 RepliesI have a 94 celica gt and at random times the power is much greater than normal. it seams to happen most when the engine is not fully warmed up or if I'm driving all day and it starts to cool down for the day. normally my 0 to 60 time is around 8 to 10 seconds and when this happens the time drops to around 6 seconds. I also have a 93 Toyota pick up that does the same thing and another 94 celica that doesn't do it.
View 4 RepliesI have a 94 Celica 2.2. I'm having issues with power steering fluid leaking from reservoir cap. I replaced the cap due to the old ones seal had dry rotted and dip stick was broke off, also replaced the 2 small short hoses and new clamps. The return hose is working right and the high pressure hose seems to be working right. None of the hoses are leaking but pressure is building up and pushing fluid out the reservoir cap. What else could be the problem to cause this??
View 14 RepliesI have a 01 GrandAM 3.4. I have a reoccurring problem with this car. The car will randomly not start, and die while driving. Some days I can drive the car with no problems, and some days it will only have starting problems. These problems are very random. When the car doesn't start it will crank and turn over however the fuel pump will not kick in. You can turn the key on and off several times, and it will fire up. This DOES NOT seem to be a problem with the passlock theft system. The security light has never came on, and you do not have to wait any amount of time for the car to start, you only have to flip the key back and forth several times. The car after running will occasionally die, after the car dies it will usually start back up on the first try. I am very puzzled by this problem not sure if it is the ignition switch, fuel pump, or something in between.
View 19 RepliesSo, before we diagnose further, i have my fuse #43 pulled because that has been the only thing that somehow magically makes my car run when its not plugged in. I believe I've been dealing with a bad distributor and haven't come up with the funds yet to mod it for a v6 mustang coilpack.
BUT as the title describes, this just started happening today. The cluster wont turn on, fuel pump is cranking over, and the starter will whine as it cranks but no spark. Is the distributor getting that bad or am i looking at something worse?