Celica :: 1994 GT 2.2L Engine Temp Goes Up At Highway Speed
Jan 16, 2012
1994 celica GT 2.2L
Just happened last night, i was driving on the highway when i noticed my temp needle was reading about a 1/4 of an inch higher than normal. That's never happened before. It's always been rock steady right in the middle. I was doing about 80 miles an hour. i slowed down to about 65 and the needle went back to the middle. I sped up to 70 and the needle went back up again. So i slowed down again and it went back down.
Tonight i was on the highway again, but due to the freezing rain and hail, i was doing between 40 and 60. Tonight the Gauge never moved from the middle. It was steady all the way until i got on the off ramp at the light, Then it went up and came back down by itself. I didn't hear the fans come on. I went to a local parking lot to do some tests. I parked the car (gauge was in the middle), and reved the engine to raise the temperature. It went up and then came down. Fans did not come on. Strange. I them went back to my house. parked the car, put the hood up and tried to make the fans some on. Here's where it gets interesting...
while in my drive way, the needle goes up, both fans come on high speed, needle drops. I then tried to do it again. Reved the engine for a second, i hear both fans come on high speed, but the needle is in the middle. It did the same thing again with the needle in middle again.
There are no external leaks. engine oil is full. Both fans work, but on high. There is no debris covering the radiator. I replaced the thermostat around april 2011,( it was not a genuine toyota part and didn't have jiggle valve. is that ok? it's been fine all this time.) Timing belt and water pump have not been replaced (so i've been told).
Tomorrow i will check the coolant in the radiator, ignition timing, and check the radiator cap. What are the odds of it being the cooling fan switch or a relay? i only ask because it hasn't come on low speed since this happened. Will warm car up in drive way and see tomorrow.
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I have a 1994 celica GT, 2.2 with a 5 speed. I thought I either had bad tire noise, or maybe a wheel bearing noise, I put the car up on jack stands, started the car and put it in gear, and the noise I have is a loud growling sound, which gets worse the faster the wheel spins. I took a 2x4 and stopped the passenger side tire (drive wheel) so the driver's side would spin, the noise went away. From what I can tell, or am guessing, the noise is coming from the trans. Could this be a bearing in the trans case? Of course I can't find an exploded view of the trans!
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I have a 1994 Celica 1.8L ST which cut off on me while driving. I have been trying to troubleshoot the problem. Here's what I've done so far:
Originally after the engine would cut off I could get it to start again, but there came a point when it wouldn't start. I ended up replacing the ignition coil, and immediately the car fired up again and was running. However, the check engine light was now on and the engine had far less power and was running very rough. Nevertheless, the car was still working and would no longer cut off. Thus, I took the car to Precision Auto Tune to get a diagnostic test done, and they told me the distributor was bad.
I then purchased a new distributor and replaced the old one. Immediately the check engine light disappeared so I took the car out for a test drive and it ran perfectly; yet, after ten minutes, the engine suddenly cut off while driving down the road. After coasting the car to a place to park, it refused to start again. I left it overnight, tried starting it the next day and it randomly started. It ran for 10 minutes again in park before cutting off again. Since then, i thought the new distributor was faulty and exchanged it for another, but the engine still cuts off after running and refuses to start again. However, when it refuses to start, if I install the old "faulty" distributor, the car starts without a problem, but the check engine light also appears.
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So I have been tying to find out what the Temp rating for a 7A-FE for so I know what thermostat to get. How impossible is it too find this info sometimes?
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My radiator gave way on the highway, and by the time I noticed it the temp had maxed out the gauge and all the coolent was gone. So, I only have 90k on my '94 Camry and I'm debating whether to tackle repairs and perhaps a rebuild if necessary. What's the likelihood that there's damage to the rings, bore, crank, valves, etc due to the overheat? How much repair am I potentially looking at and what can I check without a tear-down? I'd like to get it running again since I just invested in new struts, brake calipers and MS and tires (not to mention that it has been pretty-much worry-free until now), but I want to know whether it's even worth my while.
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This morning I went to go to work, started to back out of the drive, and the transmission locked up. So I go to put it in first gear, let off the clutch, and the engine bogs down like its in 5th gear. I then decided I will just push it back in the drive, so I put it in neutral, let off the clutch, and its still in a gear while in neutral. Last night it drove fine before parking it, and then when waking up its broke. What could be wrong?
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My fathers truck starts, runs, idles fine but once on the highway at constant speed, the engine misfires or hesitates causing a small buck or jerk but continues on down the road. The SES light is on. He took it to O'Reilly and they put some kind of computer on it and (I think) it said misfire in a cylinder. He replaced one of four O2 sensors, pickup in the distributor (not sure what this is called), wires, and plugs with no cure. This problem is very strange as again, it only does it a constant speed; truck runs fine at idle, acceleration, deceleration, startup, etc. There may be a slight sulfur smell during idle and there is a decrease in gas mileage.
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I've recently started having a problem where the car will die/engine stall when going highway speed (60-70mph), but only when it is wet/raining outside. I retain electrics/radio, but it seems that the engine just turns off. I get no response from the throttle, the rpms just drop and drop. The last instance, it died on me when I started to apply throttle to speed up from coasting at 60mph in 6th.
If I try to restart the car, it will fire up every time, but will die on the rpm downswing after it first fires up. However, if I give the car revs and maintain them (4-5k rpm) when starting, it stays alive and I can drive away. I've even done this during the last instance where the car died and I restarted while coasting at 40mph. I gave it gas on the restart and drove away and the car resumed completely normal operation.
I got codes relating to the throttle body, misfires, and even a bad ECM! However, the next day when things dried up, it ran completely normal, and continues to every day it is dry.
Again, this only happens when its wet/raining out. I popped open the hood and the top of the engine and ecu/raintray seem dry. However, I do not have a belly pan. Also, the car is VF Stage 2 with the air filter in the passenger bumper area, but it is running the plastic shroud around it.
I will try troubleshooting by having the car at idle and spraying water in different spots in/around/under the engine bay to see if I can reproduce the issue.
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I've been traveling on the highway a lot lately for work and it seems like whenever I put my 2006 Prius on cruise speed at around 72-76 MPH, engine noise is through the roof. Now I understand that Prius has a small engine compared to my stronger Camry, but I was wondering to know about highway speed and RPM's for 2nd Gen Prius?
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My truck is a 1997 nissan pickup with. 254,000 miles. Check engine light come on. Only when I am at highway speed. As long as I am in city traffic, nothing I have a code scanner code (PO302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. I change spark plugs and wires and dist cap. But check engine light came back on. I put in shop they claim that they can't find nothing wrong. I guess I need to find a new mechanic.
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I have an 04 Elantra GT and have been noticing a jerkiness when driving at a constant speed on the highway. I haven't noticed it around town or while accelerating. I also have noticed that when I disengage the clutch on the highway, the engine sometimes doesn't respond right away, or it even may surge. This has happened when exiting the highway when I disengage the clutch. The engine will slow, then speed up close to 3000 rpms.
I also had a check engine light come on and couple months ago. The code indicated that the upstream O2 sensor was bad. I took it out and cleaned it, but didn't replace it. Is this a likely culprit for this set of symptoms? If so, how can I test the sensor to be sure? I heard that I could disconnect it and run the car and see if the surging lessens, but wasn't sure if that was a good thing to do.
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I was driving to work last night and too many things went wrong simultaneously leaving my MK4 stranded.
2000 Jetta 2.0
185,000
Automatic
No check engine lights or warnings
-The engine sounded like there was a hole in the exhaust at highway speed. There wasn't because it's a new system
-Low coolant light came on. The flange connector at the firewall was torn off resulting in a stream of coolant pouring out
-It was dark but the engine almost seemed cockeyed by a degree or two
-Upon parking, the motor. sounded "clunky". Driving forward seemed OK. When shifting into reverse there was a pronounced clunk and the drivetrain wasn't happy.
-I turned the ignition off and that was the last time the car started. It turns over now but will not fire up. The video I attached is my last attempt at starting it before giving up.
My car is my job and I'm at a total loss on how to proceed???
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I have a '97 4.6L 4x4. I've had a few issues recently and am at wits end.
Symptoms: while pulling a boat at highway speed, the engine engine just died. After waiting about 20 minutes for a buddy to show up with a tow rope, it started up and ran fine...until I got home (10 miles). I parked and after approx 5 minutes of idling it died again. No CEL, and found no codes when scanned. 15 minutes pass, it fires up and works fine.
The next day, I hook the boat up again, dive to the lake, go fishing, drive home. Everything was fine. I unhook the boat and drive to work. Half way there my voltage gauge starts falling and 5 miles later all of my gauges end electric stuff dies. I drive two more miles to work and strange beep starts coming from under the dash on the passenger side (I think). After my 12 hour shift it starts and I start my 10 mile commute. Half way through I lose electrical power again but make it home. Now it doesn't have the juice to turn over.
Are these problems related, and what are the possible causes and cures? On an unrelated note, what's the easiest way to replace a rear leaf spring shackle?
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2000 neon automatic. My wife was complaining about the rpms jumping around when on the highway going about 65mph. The rpms are around 3000 and jump very slightly up and down and you can hear the engine tone change when it happens. Checked tran fluid and it was low about 3/4 of a quart and added some fluid, changed spark plugs and wires and the problem is still there. Doesn't happen all the time. She says it seems to only do this if the car has been sitting for a few hours or longer. There is an code for the downstream sensor which needs to be changed.
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94 celica GT 2.2 federal automatic, doesn't want to run, coughing, stalling, rpm gauge jumps eratically up down.
Computer says one code only, #12. Regarding Haynes manual it's distributor circuit or Igniter. When engine stops rotating (ignition still on), many times there is noise from distributor cap, like zzzzz....
System keeps shooting spark between distributor cap and rotor and there will be spark on that same spark plug !!!!!!
What's wrong? Distributor or Ignitor ??
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My son has a 1994 Celica GT with the 2.2 5S-FE engine. Recently told me his heat didn't work very well, he had mentioned it last year but due to extreme cold we've been having I decided I would look at it for him. So anyway, I started by pulling the thermostat thinking it was probably stuck open or possibly someone had removed it completely, well there was one in there and it was closed so I tested it in boiling water, worked fine, replaced it anyway.
So then I checked behind and under the dash, thinking maybe something was opening or closing completely, but they are connected and operating, when I move the controls inside I can hear the doors moving and closing and all the linkages under the dash are connected and operating. Still no heat, so I figured the heater core was clogged since the return hose didn't seem to be getting hot, or the heater control valve was bad, pulled the heater core hoses, checked the heater control valve, control valve worked fine and was not plugged. Flushed the heater core, nice clean antifreeze, I then checked it with air, manual said put 6 psi on the input and make sure it was coming out of the return, which it was.
Reconnected everything, bled the air, still nothing, took the hoses off and connected the return hose to the heater control valve, bypassing the heater core, both hoses got hot. Sure seemed like a clogged heater core, did the air test again with 2 psi, still made its way out the return side. Reconnected everything again, still same issue, return hose never got hot. So while it was running hot with thermostat open, I removed the return hose, nothing coming out of the core, then I revved the engine and it started coming out, reconnected it and ran car at 3000 RPM, finally a little heat out of the vent, about 115 degrees by thermometer placed in vent, as soon as I let it idle the temp fell back to 80 within a minute or so.
Now I figured the water pump impeller was worn/corroded or was slipping on the shaft, so I pulled the whole thing apart. ( I should mention that the entire cooling system is very clean I don't see any corrosion anywhere) Any of you that have done this knows what a pain in the butt the whole job is, anyway, when I got it apart I was surprised to see that the impeller looked like new and was definitely NOT slipping on the shaft... what the heck???
When I took the pump off the housing I noticed the housing had a lot of wear, it look as if the previous owner let the water pump fail to the point that the bearing wore enough that the impeller ground down the raised boss inside the housing, I though AH-HA, this has got to be the problem, water is not actually pumping/circulating inside the pump as efficiently as it should, hence the reason I only get coolant into the heater core at high RPM. So i replaced the housing, the water pump, and while I was in there I did all the oil seals, and the timing belt. Well I got it all back together, fired it up added coolant, let the engine come up to temp, bled air, still NO HEAT!
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Ok so i bought a 1994 celica GT from a police auction the other week and it wouldn't start so we went ahead and put a new fuel pump in it then we put new spark plugs in it. When removing the spark plugs i saw there was oil on them. My friend suggest we do a motor swap cause he thinks its a blown head gasket. Could this be an easy fix or should i go through with the swap?
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I have a 94 gt with the 5sfe and at idle with the a/c on and up to operating temp the idle goes from 750 to 500 and cycles like that. It sounds like it is when the a/c compressor is cycling on and off but the compressor never disconnects the clutch unless I turn the a/c off. also when it drops in rpm the engine shakes bad. I have checked all the motor mounts and all are good and the rear one has a solid mount insert.
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Just picked up a 1994 1.8 celica hatch and it was told to me that the 100 amp alternator fuse blew and there was some issue. So far haven't found any but I also cant seem to find this 100 amp alt fuse that goes in the fuse box under the hood. I don't have old one.
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I have a 1997 Oldsmobile 88 (174K miles, owned only by my father-in-law and then me) with which I am experiencing a hesitation problem from time to time at highway speed. My mechanic has taken the car on several highway test drives throughout the last two days, and he has been unable to reproduce the problem. Furthermore, he has done a full diagnostic test and found no problems with the fuel system, ignition system, or anything else.
Here are the conditions under which the problem occurs:
---Attempting to accelerate gradually at highway speed (usually from 50-60 mph), but WITHOUT pushing the gas pedal down so far as to cause the transmission to downshift
---Engine fully warmed up (temp gauge at 200 F or just below)
---Occurs more often when I have been driving for at least 1-2 hours
The condition is as follows:
---Car lurches/surges noticeably and does not accelerate
---Speedometer needle reflects the lurching by fluctuating up and down about 1 to 2 mph
---Accelerates well if I step down hard enough to cause the transmission to downshift, or stops surging if I lift off the gas pedal
---NO Check Engine light at any time
Some history on the car and corrective actions taken:
---June 2009: My mother-in-law was driving the car about 6 hours into our trip and it consistently hesitated between 50 and 55 mph with the Check Engine light on for the last 30 miles or so of our trip. The next day, we took the car to the dealer where my in-laws had their cars serviced (note the past tense here), where they told us that "there's probably something wrong inside the transmission" and suggested that we replace the transmission with a new one. This transmission is the second new one the car has had (replaced the first time at 95K miles), meaning that this transmission had less than 80K miles at the time. We took the car to a local shop at the referral of a friend, and this mechanic suggested we try flushing the transmission fluid and replacing the filter to see if that would fix the problem before we started talking about replacing the whole transmission. This worked, and we were glad that we did not have to get rid of the car. Did not notice any more problems with this for over a year.
---May 2010: Experienced engine misfire, had spark plug wires replaced. Problem solved.
---March 2011: First noticed my current problem. Had fuel filter replaced (it was probably a little overdue) and had the mechanics do a fuel system cleaning.
---April 2011: Problem still occurs.
---Had throttle body thoroughly cleaned, which fixed a slight sticking in the gas pedal.
---Replaced spark plugs myself. Car running more smoothly overall, but the hesitation still occurs.
---Inspected all three ignition coil packs myself. Top coil pack had some rust on the poles, which caused the resistance to measure as zero. Cleaned most of the rust off the poles, after which all three packs bench tested at 6.23 (with 20000 ohm setting on multimeter). Car runs even more smoothly overall, but hesitation persists.
At this point, my mechanic and I are both stumped as to what could be causing the hesitation problem. My only thought right now is to try replacing the one coil pack that had rust on it, since a pack with a fault I can see may have others inside that I can't see, and maybe something like this is flaking out on an intermittent basis.
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