Celica :: 1993 Idles At 2200 And Will Not Drop Unless Adjust The Dist
Jun 7, 2016
So I've had a problem with my celica. I've changed the vsv and the vacuum switching air control valve (Vsacv) ... I think the Vsacv went out already. New timing belt.. Engine is timed 10btdc. Cleaned intake and checked all vacuum lines
So the problem is that my Car idles at 2200 and will not drop unless I adjust the dist. Then the car bogs out. Put a new tps on last year which fixed the crazy idling but didn't fix the high idle... And it only drives good when the idle is that high....
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I have a '99 GT with the 2200 motor. A couple of months ago, it started sputtering around 3000rpm. Over 3600 RPM, runs great. Per my dealer, both cats and o2 sensors were changed. $$$ Did not fix! Local garage found a extremely frayed wire at the crankshaft sensor. There were two EGR codes as well, but were ignored. They changed the wire and the car has ran great for a month. Now it is sputtering again. The garage checked and there are only the same two codes are for EGR issues (I did not write them down). Could it be the EGR? Does it kick in around this RPM?
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I have an 89 Celica GT that idles at 2000 RPM when first started up and even when it's warm it is still at about 1500 RPM. How to lower that? I failed my emissions test because it put out too much CO and the idle speed was one of the suspected problems.
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I just swapped the 1.8 7a-fe for a fresher 1.8 7a-fe. Everything is properly assembled, but when I start it up it idles low and doesn't run smoothly. As if it weren't timed correctly... My buddy claims it is though, and he ran it with a timing light.
Another issue is black exhaust, I'm not sure if they bare any relation but I know black exhaust cannot be good..
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Okay, little back story me and my dad pulled this 1986 Toyota Celica gts out of the wood after been left to rot with a broken timing belt. Anyways we fixed it, got it legally driving, everything was great. Well minus the acorns that blow out the vents when the ac was on. I was going to work one day and the oil pump locked up and broke the timing belt. We then had the motor rebuild .04 over I think... It ran like a brand new car but shortly after about 3 months I noticed every time I got in the car to go somewhere the idle was going up with each start of the motor. Now after sitting for a long time I really wish to get it running again.
It hasn't been started in a while, 2 years maybe. As I'm afraid that it might hurt the newly rebuild motor. It last idled at a constant 3500 RPM, if you're driving down the road it just keeps going tell you find yourself in 5th gear. It wants to take off from stop signs like a rocket as well... I know its not the cpu because we got one and swapped it out and it still does it we done a few other thing like check timing and try to adjust the idle screw checked the distributor cap. it has no codes flashing when using the jumper next to the engine. it has all brand new parts alternate, water pump, o2 sensor, fuel pump, oil pump, fuel injectors. I think that's about it.
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Well, a couple months ago my engine started making a noise. We located the issue to be a loose timing belt. We had it tightened, and the noise stopped, but since then it kind of acted like it was a little out of time with rough idles every now and then. This past week, I had driven my car out. I came to a 4-way stop and the car shut off on me. It would not immediately start back up so I pushed it to the side and waited a bit. It started up after sitting for a few minutes and cooling down. I got it back home and it stalled right as I was turning into my driveway (after the RPMs had lowered to idle).
A couple of days ago I set out to replace the timing belt as it seemed to me the timing was off ever since we tightened the belt and it eventually got worse, thus the stalling. I changed the timing belt, set the timing on the cams the way it shows to be set below:
I set the timing on the crankshaft pulley to the specifications found in this video:
Which is putting the crankshaft pulley on and turning it until it aligns with the '0' mark on the bottom timing cover. So I decide to start the car without anything else on to make sure its in time. It fires right up so I shut it off quickly and go about putting it all back together.
Once the car is completed, I attempt to start it again. It fires up, I back it up and it dies. It would not start back. I waited a few minutes and attempted to start it again, it started up so I pulled it back up to the same spot it was in and shut it off. Took the pieces off again, got it back to where I could line the timing up again. I again set the timing one more time to make sure. It was set correctly. I then tried starting the car again and this time it would not crank.
I gave up for now as its 30 degrees outside and I have been working on it non stop for 3 days to no avail.
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I have a 1989 toyota Celica ST with a 2.0 in it.
I have idle problems after the car has ran for about 1.5- 2 hours. It has a new cap and wires and plugs and a new intake on it and it still does it. I have it parked for winter right now because it cant get around in the ND winters so i'm just trying to get some ideas right now.
Also i pulled the cap off and there was oil in it.
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It's starting to get warm again down here and I've started running my AC in the afternoon on my way home from work. I've noticed that as soon as I get off the freeway and sit at idle waiting for the light, the RPM's on my car drop considerably while the AC is engaged. I know there is a valve, AC idle-up valve or some such thing, that increases the idle when the AC is engaged. Where is it located and what is the proper name/part number so I can check or replace it? Haynes isn't supporting.
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I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
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So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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1993 Buick Regal 3.1l V6 Multiport injection
Problem: The care currently has a hard start, and a fluctuating idle. I bought the car a year and a half ago it still has low miles about 94,000. The care used to start fine but had a fluctuating idle in the range of 750 to 2500 rpm. My brother who is a mechanic and doesn’t live near, do all the gaskets when he visited. Then the idle fluctuation dropped to 750 to 1000rpm, when the car rpms fluctuate there is a whirring sound I can hear from the cab, like a pump or pull system. On occasion there is a vibration as well but it is inconstant and irregular. Fuel pressure seems to fluctuate as well. If the car will not start I give it a little gas and it will run fine after a minute or two, but then the idle starts to fluctuate.
No fuse issues I can tell and relays seem to be fine.Checked for lose wiring connections found, none. I have replaced:
- Hoses and gaskets
- Starter motor
- Battery
- Fuel Pressure regulator
- Fuel Filter
- Spark plugs and wires
- TPS
- Idle Air control Valve
- Crank shaft sensor
- PCV.
Right now I’m thinking it could be the fuel pump (a nightmare to change on this car), a fuel injector failing, and the ignition switch.
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1993 Celica GTS 2.2L N/a DOHC 5spd (S53 Trans)
My transmission is leaking. pretty badly apparently. I didn't think it was too bad, till it ran dry on me. Luckily I was about a mile from home, and most of it was downhill. so I limped it home where it sits now. I've ordered new seals for input, output, CVs, and shift shaft... am I missing anything? I also ordered a clutch kit, so if it's close to needing a clutch, it will get one, but it needed a throw out bearing, so I just went ahead and bought the kit (cause that made the bearing essentially free with the purchase of the clutch and pressure plates).
I have reason to believe that at least part of the leakage is at the input shaft, because my clutch seems perpetually dirty.
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I have a 1993 Jeep Wrangler 4 cyl. When I am downshifting, the rpm's will drop to very low levels 100 or so and even die on me. If I feather the throttle a bit while I engage the clutch, the rpm's will stay up and the Jeep will not die. I have changed the air idle control valve, plug wires, cleaned the throttle body, oil change. The a/c condenser will disengage when the rpm's drop that low and reengage once I get the jeep moving again. Since I use it for city driving, the problem is exacerbated at every light.
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I have a 93 Nissan 240sx that exhibits weird electrical behavior. I've had the battery and alternator checked at two local Advance Auto Parts locations with results indicating no problems. The car starts and drives fine. Immediately after start, my automatic seatbelts are engaged and the RPMs drop to about 400 and the car shakes violently (while pressing brakes and even when not pressing brakes). RPMs drop anytime accessories are in use. When braking at a stop light, the RPMs drop and the car shakes again. Using my headlights causes the RPMs to drop but not a point where I feel shaking. The problem is worst at night when I am pulling up to my apartment complex with lights on, braking, and using my power windows to access my gate card reader. I don't know if this problem is related, but when I am listening to the radio and turn the volume all the way up, the radio keeps cuts on and off. I have a suspicion it's the grounds, but before I start tracing all my wires. I'd like to hear everyone's input. I determined it was the brake booster vacuum because it also happens when not using the brakes and pinching the line has no effect on idle.
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2003 7.3 excursion.. The truck starts every time revs up and idles about 3 seconds then the rpms drop and it tries to stall out catches itself then revs backup and idles rough similar to if you have got air in the fuel lines from changing the fuel filter.. About 1 in five times the truck will stall out and it starts and immediately and idles rough but the rpms and everything runs at speed and rpms don't drop again! This is a reman engine/transmission recently installed.. The mechanic who installed it was unable to figure the problem out.
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My 93 Celica GT Convertible 2.2 (5s-fe?) won't stay running at idle. It starts up fine but is loping and dies unless I give it some gas. I really don't know that much about engines, but I tried disconnecting the PCV valve and the engine began to run more or less normally. I've replaced the PCV with a new one but it didn't fix the problem. The replacement PCV valve didn't seem to fit quite as tightly as the old one but that may have been due to the age of the old one. I assume there is an air flow issue of some kind, but don't know where to look next. I just want to get it running so I can sell it.
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I have a '93 Toyota Celica Standard transmission. Recently it's been lagging in power. Only happens after it's warmed up. I'll be driving along and it just seems to lose power. Have to stomp on the gas to get it to kick in. Also, at the same time, when stopped it idles really low. Cold, no problem. Took it to Toyota dealer to have it diagnosed. I Stated that it might be the MAF sensor. They checked it out and said it needed a major tune up (to the tune of $700!) Now, I know it needs a tune up, but the symptoms don't seem to correlate to that being the problem. I asked about the MAF sensor and they said no diagnostic codes came up. Is it possible the air filter is clogged? Can the sensor malfunction intermittently?
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Ok, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
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I've recently rebuilt my toyota celica gt and the engine management light was on , I wiped it and keep getting the same code 52 which I think is the knock sensor car drives terrible under load , idles up and down a little , I've actually replaced the sensor just now and wiped the ecu but as soon as I rev it , bang it's back and I'm getting the same code 52.
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Toyota Celica 1993 has been in the shop for 7 weeks and now the shop says they have no idea how to fix the car. Car blows a fuse when the car is started. Replace fuse; try again and fuse blows.
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I changed the radiator and thermostat, changed the coolant, and my fans work. however, whenever i take the car for a short drive, the temp goes up. I stop the car and shut it off, it steams near th coolant tank. it sounds like its almost boiling..
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