Celica :: 1993 GT 2.2 Won't Stay Running At Idle
Jul 17, 2012
My 93 Celica GT Convertible 2.2 (5s-fe?) won't stay running at idle. It starts up fine but is loping and dies unless I give it some gas. I really don't know that much about engines, but I tried disconnecting the PCV valve and the engine began to run more or less normally. I've replaced the PCV with a new one but it didn't fix the problem. The replacement PCV valve didn't seem to fit quite as tightly as the old one but that may have been due to the age of the old one. I assume there is an air flow issue of some kind, but don't know where to look next. I just want to get it running so I can sell it.
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I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
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I have a 1995 Chevy 2500 with a 454 engine with 72K miles. The engine won't stay running (won't idle). There is fuel spraying into the throttle body. Not sure about the pattern being correct. If I spray starting fluid into the throttle body the engine starts running fine for a short time(until the fluid is consumed). So, I'm assuming it is a fuel delivery problem. The fuel filter is O.K. Don't know about the fuel pressure.
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This is for a friends gasser V-10. It has a new fuel pump and oil change. Wont idle or stay running?
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1993 3.0 V6 5 Spd ... Changed plugs wires Cap and rotor put in a new idle control Valve. No Check engine light. When i am running down the road feels like it surges,hickups, while its at idle the motor shakes like no tomorrow. Just dont want to throw money at something and not be the part that was wrong. Truck has plenty of pickup runs like a raped ape going down the highway. seems when i accelerate the miss clears up and not there. RPM gauge needle has some movement in it. Also put in K&N filter fuel filter as well.
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I just bought a 1982 Chevy c10 305 small block.It had an oil leak so i began putting new valve cover gaskets, and then New Valve Covers(Edelbrock). Because the covers were taller, I had to remove the EGR valve and bend a new fuel line.There was a plate i installed inside the valve cover where the PVC goes into? is this a problem?I noticed the hose from the distributor rotor button(vacuum?) was not connected to anything.I plan on putting a EGR blocker plate, but was told it wasn't needed to run.
So now it starts up but will not stay running idle. Do i need an EGR blocker to run?IS that plate needed inside the Valve Cover?Does the hose from the Distributor rotor need to be connected?
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My 2001 Toyota Celica GT was put through a smog test and it was running rich on the idle only. It has been tagged a gross polluter and so i finally got a code reader to try to diagnose why. When i plugged in the code reader it kept stating no codes. It does not have a check engine light on and has not had a tune up for a while now. I am in real need of my car now more than ever.
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98 Honda Accord with 2.3L has 354,000 miles on it and up until recently ran like it was still new. Have developed erratic idle speeds. When it is cold it idles around 1100-1200 rpm. When the radiator fans are on or the A/C compressor is on it runs around 800-900 rpm. These are normal speeds and great. However, when the engine is warm/hot, in PARK, radiator fans are off, and A/C compressor kicks off, the idle speed drops to what appears to be about a rough idling 500 rpm's and the engine can barely stay running. I've attempted to look for the obvious. I own the Honda Shop Service manual if there is a particular component or most likely suspect area I should start at.
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I own a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8, and there has been an ongoing problem with it stalling. The check engine light is on and it reads codes about idle control sensor and 02 sensor. I spent a lot of money having both replaced, along with an processor. I had to bring my Jeep to a dealership so they could "marry" the processor to the car. The check engine light went out for about a day, then once the computer reset, light went back on. The codes still read bad O2 and idle sensor despite them being replaced.
The problem is when the car starts cold I have to keep my foot on the gas for a couple minutes or it will stall out. Once it has warmed up the car runs good. I turned the idle pin on the front of the throttle body to try to keep from having to put my foot on the gas but it still stalls. It seems like it is working better in the cold weather. My mechanic says that I may have turned the idle too far trying to fix it and that is why it is stalling.
I just want my car to run without having to warm it up every time. It wastes time and a lot of gas. Could it be something other then what I've already replaced? I don't want to keep replacing the same things and not have it fix the problem.
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My brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
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1993 Celica GTS 2.2L N/a DOHC 5spd (S53 Trans)
My transmission is leaking. pretty badly apparently. I didn't think it was too bad, till it ran dry on me. Luckily I was about a mile from home, and most of it was downhill. so I limped it home where it sits now. I've ordered new seals for input, output, CVs, and shift shaft... am I missing anything? I also ordered a clutch kit, so if it's close to needing a clutch, it will get one, but it needed a throw out bearing, so I just went ahead and bought the kit (cause that made the bearing essentially free with the purchase of the clutch and pressure plates).
I have reason to believe that at least part of the leakage is at the input shaft, because my clutch seems perpetually dirty.
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I have a '93 Toyota Celica Standard transmission. Recently it's been lagging in power. Only happens after it's warmed up. I'll be driving along and it just seems to lose power. Have to stomp on the gas to get it to kick in. Also, at the same time, when stopped it idles really low. Cold, no problem. Took it to Toyota dealer to have it diagnosed. I Stated that it might be the MAF sensor. They checked it out and said it needed a major tune up (to the tune of $700!) Now, I know it needs a tune up, but the symptoms don't seem to correlate to that being the problem. I asked about the MAF sensor and they said no diagnostic codes came up. Is it possible the air filter is clogged? Can the sensor malfunction intermittently?
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1993 5.0 mustang. The car wil start but will not stay idling. if the accelerator is gunned, it will run. The car has been tuned up (cap, rotor, plugs, air & fuel filter, also oil and filter). We thought maybe the fuel was old as it had been sitting for a few months so we drained out the old fuel and put in some fresh gas...Still the same issue. Got ahold of a fuel pressure tester from the loaner program at Autozone. The guy behind the counter looked up the spec and said it should be between 35 and 40 PSI. After putting the gauge on the Mustang, we got a reading of 30 PSI. Would this reading cause the current issue? Is a new fuel pump in this car's future?
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Ok, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
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I've recently rebuilt my toyota celica gt and the engine management light was on , I wiped it and keep getting the same code 52 which I think is the knock sensor car drives terrible under load , idles up and down a little , I've actually replaced the sensor just now and wiped the ecu but as soon as I rev it , bang it's back and I'm getting the same code 52.
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Toyota Celica 1993 has been in the shop for 7 weeks and now the shop says they have no idea how to fix the car. Car blows a fuse when the car is started. Replace fuse; try again and fuse blows.
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I changed the radiator and thermostat, changed the coolant, and my fans work. however, whenever i take the car for a short drive, the temp goes up. I stop the car and shut it off, it steams near th coolant tank. it sounds like its almost boiling..
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Just finished a timing belt job on my 93 celica 5sfe. Filled the coolant up and burped engine. All seems to be well. My question is related to the coolant overflow tank. The cap has a hose attached on one end coming from the radiator and another coming out the other side that is short and L shaped. The L shaped hose isn't attached to anything and is open allowing air to either vent out or vent in to the overflow tank. There isn't any place nearby where the hose might attach to. Is this hose supposed to be "unattached" as it is now or should it be closed to create vacuum for the overflow tank to allow coolant back in to the radiator?
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So I've had a problem with my celica. I've changed the vsv and the vacuum switching air control valve (Vsacv) ... I think the Vsacv went out already. New timing belt.. Engine is timed 10btdc. Cleaned intake and checked all vacuum lines
So the problem is that my Car idles at 2200 and will not drop unless I adjust the dist. Then the car bogs out. Put a new tps on last year which fixed the crazy idling but didn't fix the high idle... And it only drives good when the idle is that high....
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I have a 1993 Celica and replace the radiator about 2 years ago. Tonight I notice my temperature gauge going from the center up to the red, but then it would slowly come back down to the center. And this continue for about 30 minutes until I reach home. What this could be?
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My 1993 Celica, 1.6, 5-speed manual left drive shaft failed and I am trying to replace it myself. I have the new part in hand, but for some reason, the inner splined shaft does not want to go all the way into the transaxle. I have tapped the rotor end of the shaft with a mallet and tried to force it in, but everything Ive tried wont work.
My car is down for the count until I can get this drive shaft back in.
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