I've recently rebuilt my toyota celica gt and the engine management light was on , I wiped it and keep getting the same code 52 which I think is the knock sensor car drives terrible under load , idles up and down a little , I've actually replaced the sensor just now and wiped the ecu but as soon as I rev it , bang it's back and I'm getting the same code 52.
View 9 RepliesI have a Sonata 2008 model which has done only 40K miles so far. All of a sudden i got the engine management light on and i scanned it in the garage. They are saying the fault is with EGR Valve and it needs to be replaced. They reset it and now the light is not ON.
Could it just be a glitch or is it really a problem with EGR valve. I am really confused on what to do, because when i got a second opinion from a local garage they said there is no need to replace - simply a clean would do....
2 days after the engine light reset, when i took the car off the park i suddenly got a grinding noise from the front of the car and i switched if off and re-started and the noise went away..not sure whether this could be linked with EGR valve or was it a simple gear slip.
Bought a mk4 1.8 gti golf last week and day after I got it I filled it up with petrol at Tesco. Since I did that, the engine management light has been on. It hasn't affected the drive or anything so haven't done anything about it yet.
One of the guys at work plugged in his computer thing to it to find out the fault and the code was coming up as 'cooling system malfunction'. He took the fault off so the light no longer comes on but now it makes the most horrendous noise like a grinder or something when the engine is running. I have not driven it anywhere and won't until it has been looked at but just wondered what others thoughts on it might be? Could the noise be something to do with the turbo? Had new cam belt, water pump etc at about 138000/139000 miles (November 2013) and hasn't done more than 10000 since.
I bought a 2008 Santa Fe last September, since around 2 weeks after I bought it the engine management light has been coming on intermittently. First it then after a few starts it goes off, only to come on again a few days later. Basically dealership hasn't got a clue what's causing it and thus far they've:
Replaced the DPF
Replaced the temp sensors
Replaced injector sleeves
Cleaned the EGR
DPF was changed after they couldn't force regen.
Now, it mainly comes on when I've got cruise control on, although the way I turn it on is bizarre, I have to hold down the on/off and cancel buttons for 10 seconds before it turns on.
Basically I am now running out of solutions as are the dealers, they can't replicate the problem ( although they haven't tried with the cruise)...
I have a 2008 Sonata Diesel version, and I am getting the engine management light on. All the times i have scanned it, it says - Insufficient air flow to EGR Valve. This gets automatically reset in a day. Now the weird thing - This is happening only if I drive in and around Heathrow airport I have done 100s of miles elsewhere and this problem never occurs. But if I just drive 20 miles to Heathrow, my engine management light always comes on which resets in a day.
I am really confused on what is happening here.
I run my 92 celica for a good 30 miles and check engine light comes on but after driving another 20-25 miles it turns off. I red the code it was the Egr (code 71) I took off egr valve and cleaned it out idk if its bad, how to test the valve?
View 1 RepliesI have a problem with my 2004 Santa Fe, 2l diesel. Will try to keep this short!
When driving it suddenly 'heaves' (not sure how else to describe it), then it cuts out. I wait about a minute and then it restarts.
At first there was no 'heave' but there would be a momentary loss of power (I thought it was the clutch). Then it progressed to the 'heave' and then cut out, this happened now and then. Very quickly it started to do it every time I drove it. My neighbor mechanic blew down the fuel line, said the fuel pump in tank sounded ok, seemed to do it more when below quarter of tank.
So I kept tank topped up, it seemed ok, then on one 11 mile journey it did it 3 times, the last time the engine management light came on, crawled it home, after which it would not start at all. The computer said it was either fuel rail or coolant sensor. Neighbor replaced coolant sensor, it started ok. Tried it next day - 6 miles and it heaved and cut out again. This time no light coming on.
I've read about cam sensor, crank shaft sensor, fuel pump at back of engine...
My cousins car died. cranks but NO start. It was not very well taken care of, but it is her daily driver. Threw a code 12, which is SOMETHING with the ignition.
Have replaced the...
distributer/cap/rotor
spark plugs
wires
ignition coil
valve cover gasket [unrelated HUGE oil leak]
100a ALT fuse
Timing is correct as far as i can tell, 12 volts at both wires for the ignition coil
Battery is good, alt is good...
My 96 toyota celica check engine light is on and I get the code P0340. Also I can't seem to get my reverse light to work what could be the problem.
View 7 RepliesEarlier today on a easy drive (not pushing it) I noticed a slight "whistle-sound" that I haven't noticed before. About then it became VERY sluggish and the Engine Management Light started to flash.
As soon as I could I pulled over and connected my AL619 and it says "to low turbo/supercharger flow".
I didn't notice any smoke or smell, just a serious lack of power (i was doing 30km/h at the top of the hill).
Just tried to locate the leak, but I cant feel it or see it. I guess one would need one of those "smoke generators" to see where the pressure goes out.
So, do I have a broken turbo, or just a blown turbo pipe/tube?
Santa Fe 56 2.2 Diesel ... I am suddenly experiencing the engine management light symbol being illuminated and have severe lack of power I am wondering whether it is Mass air sensor ? blocked fuel filter? or blocked exhaust?
View 9 RepliesSo, I seem to have horrible luck with valets. One curbed my wheel a couple weeks ago. The TPMS light came on and all tires were equally underinflated... I thought it was due to a recent cold snap. Well, once I got around to inflating, I noticed the curbed wheel and the sidewall bulging tire. Nonetheless, i tried to reset my TPMS light and there is no button in the glove box. I have a thing that should house a button, but there is nothing behind it. Is this usual?
View 4 Replies1993 Celica GTS 2.2L N/a DOHC 5spd (S53 Trans)
My transmission is leaking. pretty badly apparently. I didn't think it was too bad, till it ran dry on me. Luckily I was about a mile from home, and most of it was downhill. so I limped it home where it sits now. I've ordered new seals for input, output, CVs, and shift shaft... am I missing anything? I also ordered a clutch kit, so if it's close to needing a clutch, it will get one, but it needed a throw out bearing, so I just went ahead and bought the kit (cause that made the bearing essentially free with the purchase of the clutch and pressure plates).
I have reason to believe that at least part of the leakage is at the input shaft, because my clutch seems perpetually dirty.
My 93 Celica GT Convertible 2.2 (5s-fe?) won't stay running at idle. It starts up fine but is loping and dies unless I give it some gas. I really don't know that much about engines, but I tried disconnecting the PCV valve and the engine began to run more or less normally. I've replaced the PCV with a new one but it didn't fix the problem. The replacement PCV valve didn't seem to fit quite as tightly as the old one but that may have been due to the age of the old one. I assume there is an air flow issue of some kind, but don't know where to look next. I just want to get it running so I can sell it.
View 2 RepliesI have a '93 Toyota Celica Standard transmission. Recently it's been lagging in power. Only happens after it's warmed up. I'll be driving along and it just seems to lose power. Have to stomp on the gas to get it to kick in. Also, at the same time, when stopped it idles really low. Cold, no problem. Took it to Toyota dealer to have it diagnosed. I Stated that it might be the MAF sensor. They checked it out and said it needed a major tune up (to the tune of $700!) Now, I know it needs a tune up, but the symptoms don't seem to correlate to that being the problem. I asked about the MAF sensor and they said no diagnostic codes came up. Is it possible the air filter is clogged? Can the sensor malfunction intermittently?
View 14 RepliesOk, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
Toyota Celica 1993 has been in the shop for 7 weeks and now the shop says they have no idea how to fix the car. Car blows a fuse when the car is started. Replace fuse; try again and fuse blows.
View 6 RepliesI changed the radiator and thermostat, changed the coolant, and my fans work. however, whenever i take the car for a short drive, the temp goes up. I stop the car and shut it off, it steams near th coolant tank. it sounds like its almost boiling..
View 5 RepliesJust finished a timing belt job on my 93 celica 5sfe. Filled the coolant up and burped engine. All seems to be well. My question is related to the coolant overflow tank. The cap has a hose attached on one end coming from the radiator and another coming out the other side that is short and L shaped. The L shaped hose isn't attached to anything and is open allowing air to either vent out or vent in to the overflow tank. There isn't any place nearby where the hose might attach to. Is this hose supposed to be "unattached" as it is now or should it be closed to create vacuum for the overflow tank to allow coolant back in to the radiator?
View 4 RepliesSo I've had a problem with my celica. I've changed the vsv and the vacuum switching air control valve (Vsacv) ... I think the Vsacv went out already. New timing belt.. Engine is timed 10btdc. Cleaned intake and checked all vacuum lines
So the problem is that my Car idles at 2200 and will not drop unless I adjust the dist. Then the car bogs out. Put a new tps on last year which fixed the crazy idling but didn't fix the high idle... And it only drives good when the idle is that high....
I have a 1993 Celica and replace the radiator about 2 years ago. Tonight I notice my temperature gauge going from the center up to the red, but then it would slowly come back down to the center. And this continue for about 30 minutes until I reach home. What this could be?
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