Celica :: 1993 5sfe - Coolant Overflow Tank Hoses On Cap?
Jan 25, 2012
Just finished a timing belt job on my 93 celica 5sfe. Filled the coolant up and burped engine. All seems to be well. My question is related to the coolant overflow tank. The cap has a hose attached on one end coming from the radiator and another coming out the other side that is short and L shaped. The L shaped hose isn't attached to anything and is open allowing air to either vent out or vent in to the overflow tank. There isn't any place nearby where the hose might attach to. Is this hose supposed to be "unattached" as it is now or should it be closed to create vacuum for the overflow tank to allow coolant back in to the radiator?
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I got a 64 F100 with a 292 that I am thinking of installing a coolant overflow tank on to aliviate having to fill the radiator frequently.
The question being............Is it a sealed system or do I need to provide an air bleed to adjust for the presure change within the cylinder I intend to use?
I realise that thermal syphoning will return the coolant to the radiator but am unsure as to weather or not I need to allow the airspace to remain at atmospheric pressure.
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1993 ranger, 3.0 V6 203,000 miles. As engine warms up coolant in blown into over flow and spills out. At that point system is low and truck runs hotter than norman, 3/4 way across gage. What would be causing overflow to overfill from engine. Could it be a bad rad. cap? Just replaced head gaskets at 200,000 miles. Truck runs good. No oil in water, no sign of visible leakes other than overflow tank overfilling and loosing coolant.
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While I was looking at my coolant level in the overflow tank yesterday I noticed pinkish coolant residue on the overflow tank cap and then looked at the radiator cap and it was covered in the same pinkish coolant residue.
2006 Cam LE 4 Cylinder, 52,000. Already done 2 coolant drain and fills--the Head bolt issue scares me.....
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I have owned my 2005 v10 ex since 60000 miles. Have had many dependable family road trips and love my truck.
Recently it has started puking coolant and the overflow tank smells like exhaust. The oil cap has some coolant sludge on it. But there is no coolant mixed with the oil. Or oil in the coolant.
I am pretty certain these are the signs of failing head gaskets. The truck has 193000 miles on it now.
Want to keep it on course. But keep it reliable. So do I buy new engine or do I just replace head gaskets?
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So I have a 2005 Dodge Stratus. It must be a year old model because most of the parts and engine wise are of the 2006 model. Well earlier in Feb/March I had to get my timing belt and heads changed due to the bending. After that my car was working fine, but my coolant overflow tank kept losing coolant. Had that fixed with the repair shop as well. After that it seemed that my car was working well. Then it started to overheat, and I was informed that my lower radiator hose had a small leak. I had that fixed as well. This is when the constant overheating started.
I assumed that the air needed to be removed from the system. So I had it bleed, and then it seemed to work well, but that was not true seeing as my car continued to overheat of the cold air was on. The only thing that keeps it working is if I turn the heater on. That cools the system off. So now everyday I have to keep letting air out of the radiators, and run the heater if it gets too hot.
I just noticed today that my thermostat housing bolts have coolant on them whenever the engine gets to hot. Do you think it's not right enough, or my radiator cap may be bad?
Replacements:
Head gasket
Thermostat
Radiator hoses
I believe the cap of the radiator as well.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and I am still trying to figure out why the coolant will overflow in the radiator reserve tank. I put in a new thermostat and a new cap to the overflow tank. When the tank is cold, sat over night, I put in new anti-freeze to the cold coolant line. Then I start up the explorer and let it run for a while. The temp gauge goes up, then drops a tad and cold air comes out of the vents.
After I rev up the engine, I see the coolant level starts to rise in the overflow tank, then it goes to the top and starts to leak out. This takes a while being the thermostat has not kicked in to suck the fluid in. Before this happens, the heater core lines are luke warm. After the tank overflows, the remaining gets sucked into the engine and I get nice warm heat. What causes this. I had the test done to see if the head gasket is bad. The test was negative.
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Anyway here's the problem. My son has a 2000 Ranger 3.0L V6 he left me when he had to move back up to Las Vegas. I was out checking it out today and pulled the radiator cap, man what a mess. It looks like reddish mud in there and the overflow tank. It's not milky like oil in there it's more like mud. It's caked up on the bottom of the cap and inside the filler neck and the coolant looks the same.
So the questions are, what's the best way to clean it all out and what would cause it?
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I have an 04 gti 1.8t and last night it started over heating. I pulled over and checked the coolant and the oil but everything looked good. I let it cool down and drove it home. When I popped the hood there was a little steam coming from the coolant overflow tank but I saw no leaking. I decided to vent the pressure off the system and then I got a little drip on the passenger side close to where the inter cooler is. I can't pinpoint the leak though.
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So I have been troubleshooting a few cooling issues and I am currently at a loss of WTF is going on with this thing. The truck is a 99 5.4L SD and has no heat and was burping a little coolant.
The truck was originally burping coolant out of the overflow tank. After verifying that it was not a head gasket by all means except the exhaust gas test. I replaced the overflow tank and cap.
Now the truck is holding pressure fine but I do not have heat. Here is what I have done:
I replaced the blend door actuator--no heat
I went to flush the heater core and since the quick disconnects were such a bitch to get off I decided ti replace it while I was at it. --still no heat,
New thermostat 195 deg --no heat
The radiator is brand new
Supposedly the water pump was replaced by the previous owner I have all the receipts for the truck so I could double check
Truck seems to circulate coolant fine i measured temps at the water outlet with an IR thermometer peaking at about 175~10 deg due to accuracy of the thermometer and heat loss due to thermal variations the lower radiator hose and reservoir coolant temps were around 76~10 degrees so the radiator is working as advertised . Truck doesn't overheat, granted after draining and replacing the coolant the temp gauge did climb some while driving until i worked out all the air pockets but still didn't overheat.
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So I've replaced my head gasket on my 5SFE. But after putting my car back together, my car didn't want start. This is how it sounds like (click on the video to watch it).
So I suspected that my timing was off, so I took off the valve cover to check the timing marks on the camshafts. So the two timing punches lined up like so (I only took picture of one of them)
Though I'm not too sure what the two dots mean on the exhaust camshaft since there are not two similar dots on the intake camshaft.
So I'll assume that I have my camshafts lined up properly But how do I know that it is in time with the pistons?
Could it be the distributor? I am not too sure if I installed it correctly, but I did follow instructions in the Chilton manual.
On the other end, there were two vacuum lines that I'm not sure if I installed correctly. I'm positive that the left two pipes are correct; however, I'm not too sure about the two on the right. This is mounted on the cylinder head.
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I was driving back home from work and I happen to notice smoke. Oil is coming out of the top of the dipstick hole not the bottom o ring. It seems the crank is building too much pressure . It's a 1990 5sfe so it does not have a pcv valve,ithasa pcv system which is basically a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body.
This does not happen initially when I turn the car on from a cold start. I turn it on leave it at idle for a while and even rev it up and hold it high. It starts to leak after about a 2 mile drive and the car is at running temperature. I removed the hose on the valve cover when the car was at idle and a good amount if air blows out when at idle now when I rev the car up the air blowing out drops some.
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Installed a "new" battery in my celica (it was used but tested good) went to start up the car to see if it was good and the car started right up
Shut the car off cleaned up my throttle body a bit the went to start the car again it it would just crank and crank
I just put in a new fuel pump, so that cant be it, I have not checked for spark yet ( car is stuck at work )
I heard that the ignition coil likes to fail on these would that be causing this problem?
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Once again my Celica is having a similar issue. Originally over 6 months ago i had an issue with my MAP Sensor which was causing extreme hesitation issues and the car was basically not safe to drive in traffic.
The issue that is now occurring is that i can start my car fine and drive around on flat normal roads with no issues but ive noticed once i go up a steep or decent hill/driveway the car will start to bog down around 1500-2100 RPM.
Once it starts to play up it continues to do so even on flat roads.
Have Checked:
- MAP Sensor - OK
- Distributor - OK
- Leads - Old but still ok, plan to replace later.
- Spark Plugs - Ok
- Spark Plug Wells - They had oil in them few weeks ago, cleaned out and hasent returned.
- Need to replace Valve cover gasket to fix this i believe.
- Fuel is ok.
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My 92 Celica 5SFE 2.2L auto sputters at half throttle. But if I release gas pedal, performance normalizes. I already changed spark plugs cables, ignition coil fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned injectors, replaced timing belt, engine starts right up and idles a bit high, around 1300 RPM when cold in Park, then when warm 800 RPM in drive. I don't know if it's an electrical issue or a vacuum related issue, spark plugs get carbon fouled after driving like this. I'm tired of having all the newer cars pass me by and my car "running" on 3 pistons.
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My 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx is overheating, probably on its last legs. First time this happened the radiator overflow tank seemed low so I topped it up with glycerol and added some leak plugger to the radiator for good measure. The car drove just fine for 20-30km then it happened again. At the same time, and I don't know if this is relevant, the windscreen defroster, which should bleed warm engine air, now only gives cold.
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Having a problem with the 2008 Sonata GLS. When filling gas tank, pump nozzle clicks off, but gas flow continues, creating a significant spillage.
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Is it normal for a small amount of antifreeze to leak out of the small hole on top of my Jaz overflow tank? This is on a 73 Chevy small block.
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I've got an 1989 Celica St that as it warms up it pushes water out through the overflow bottle. The car seems to be cooling ok as long as I don't get stuck in traffic. My daily commute is approximately 40 miles and if I keep refilling the radiator the car stays relatively cool. However, if I do not stop and let the car cool off between commuting to and from work the car loses enough coolant that eventually it starts to overheat and I need to pull over and refill the radiator once again. I have replaced the radiator cooling fan already and am going to flush the radiator this afternoon. I am thinking that the head gasket might be leaking and causing my problems. What to try next b4 I tear the head off? BTW the motor is a 2.0 L 16 valve. Hoping I can fix this problem w/o a head gasket.
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I was wondering if I can replace my overflow tube for my gas tank without replacing the whole gas tank. I know I will have to drop the tank and get new straps to install it, but would I need a completely new tank or can I buy an overflow tube separately?
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When filling the gas tank, the pump shuts-off (as it should) unless the tank filled very-very slowly. It has overflowed/spilled before the pump even shut-off in some cases.
CEL is not on. DTC 16826 stored: "EVAP Emission Contrl.Sys (small leak) Leak Detected". I just got a VAG-COM cable but haven't got the software going
yet.
Bentley has some diagrams for the fuel vapor recovery system but that's about it. Seems like there's something with the fuel vapor recovery / venting system going on. How to further diagnose?
'01 Passat 1.8T ....
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