My 1993 Celica, 1.6, 5-speed manual left drive shaft failed and I am trying to replace it myself. I have the new part in hand, but for some reason, the inner splined shaft does not want to go all the way into the transaxle. I have tapped the rotor end of the shaft with a mallet and tried to force it in, but everything Ive tried wont work.
My car is down for the count until I can get this drive shaft back in.
My Toyota land cruiser 1993 dies at low speed only turning left....ONLY leftSo, it started last year while in low turning left off road she suddenly died and I just about rolled her, but was able to turn her back on and keep going albeit in higher RPM. Now, she dies all the time when making a slow speed left turn and ONLY left turn. Also, in low she bucks and starts to die....
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
View 5 RepliesI recently took the engine apart and got the head resurfaced after the head got warped. New thermostat, waterpump, timing belt, serpentine belt, power steering belt, and gaskets for all sorts of stuff. After reassembling the engine everything worked fine. No strange noises. Only problem i am having now is that the cooling fan switches on really late, when the needle is 3/4 of the way towards H, sometimes even a little later. Fan is working as when i disconnect the cooling fan switch(bottom of radiator) and the fan does kick on. ECT was also replaced and nothing seems to work. I did replace the switch and the fans failed to kick on, unfortunately i got it from Autozone.This is a 1990 Celica GTS with the 5SFE 2.2L
View 8 RepliesI installed a JDM 2ZZ-GE engine and 6 speed manual trans-axle into my 2000 Celica GT.
I have ran into a interesting problem. I replaced the output shaft seals and now whenever the car is in the air and the suspension is unloaded (the drive axle is pulled slightly from the trans) the drivers side seal leaks a bit of gear oil. The drive axle is snapped into place. Nothing leaks when the car is on the ground.
I did reuse the old drive axles, which had a lot of miles on them but still appeared good and useable. I have been told to replace the new seal because it may be damaged, but I am wondering if it may be that the drive axle end is worn.
I have seen this with harmonic balancers for engines. They even sell a replacement sleeve for harmonic balancers so you can re-use the old worn one.
I just got myself a 1993 ford explorer and the damn thing won't drive forward but it will drive in reverse. What could be the problem?? I've already drained the Transmission Fluid out & refilled it. My friend told me it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch but I have no clue where it is located. I will be honest I have absolutely no clue about vehicles.
View 1 RepliesI have just acquired a 93 Camry with manual transmission and no tachometer. However, I have a auto one that I am wrecking with a tachometer which I want to fit to the manual vehicle which I will keep in commission.
Where it is connected to the engine wiring? Is there a sender unit? Or does it sense pulses from the distributor?
The service manual that I have does not describe it.
I have a 93 Aerostar 4.0 and it is displaying the blinking airbag light (3-2) and the horn doesn't work and the cruise control failed. I believe it is the clockspring ...
QUESTION: Can the clockspring be repaired or must it be replaced. I do not have a schematic of the electrical components of the clockspring ...
I was recently driving my 1993 Volvo 240 wagon over the Bourne Bridge in bumper to bumper traffic (surprise!). Traffic was moving at 3-5 mph as I navigated the rotary and ascended the bridge. Needless to say, I was developing leg cramps as traffic crawled up the steep bridge incline. Once I crested the hill, I shifted to neutral (still 3-5mph to coast down the decline and give my leg a rest. After coasting for a few minutes I attempted to shift into second gear to re-engage the transmission.
I was unable to slip the gear shift stick into any gear! I continued to make sure that I was depressing the clutch all the way to the floor, but still could not muscle the stick into a single gear (by the way, I never smelled that "burning clutch smell"). After about a minute or more of mental disaster planning, I finally coerced the shift into third gear. A minute or so later, I was able to shift into second gear which got me around the accident causing the delay and onto the highway. From that point on, I was able to shift normally for the remainder of the 2 hour trip. What happened and what could I have done to solve the problem? (The car is now at the repair shop where they are equally perplexed).
My 88 celica's manual transmission grinds a little, at times, when going in 3rd gear. I have atf fluid in it now as specified in the manual. Should I replace it with gear oil?
I don't want to damage the transmission or clutch.
My 1986 Toyota celica supra stick shifter is pretty loose and I don't like it. Any way I can tighten it up?
View 5 RepliesI'm a fairly new owner, and the 89 gt I just bought came in very good shape. Yesterday the manual clutch just went completely soft. I felt this for about a week when I first purchased it, but only in first gear and it worked itself out and hadn't recurred since then. Now the clutch will not disengage. Gears move well when the car is off though. I noticed the clutch fluid was totally empty when I looked under the hood yesterday. Is this indicative of a bad master or slave cylinder? Or do I just need to bleed and refill the fluid? I love driving this car and want to again soon.
View 1 RepliesI'm trying to diagnose a problem with my dad's 93 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 with a ZF S5-42 5 speed manual transmission. It seems to not want to shift back into gear once the truck has warmed up, with 1st, 2nd and reverse being the toughest gears to get into. We've done a transmission fluid change with the required dextron/mercon substitute but the problem existed before the change and the change didn't seem to solve the problem any.
This problem didn't exist until I did a couple hundred miles of towing with it, some of which was done in 5th gear (overdrive?), so I'm hoping the 5th gear towing didn't ruin the transmission. From a cold start the transmission has no trouble shifting into any gear as well as with the engine off when either warm or cold, but with the engine idling and the truck at operating temperature it can be difficult to impossible to shift into gear, especially reverse.
I think heat has something to do with the problem because the shifts were worse a when its driven longer and during the tow/driving that was done in the last part of summer. It sat most of the time since then but we took it out today to test some things. Hot or cold the external hydraulic slave had roughly the same range of movement, but the drive line seems to jerk more noticeably like power is applied to it during a shift when its warm.
This all makes me think, even though the clutch hydraulic system is working like I think it should, that the clutch is not fully disengaging when at temp. I'm not a transmission guy so before I start throwing parts/labor at a problem.
I'm having a little issue with shifting into first. Once in a while it simply will not go in, like you're pushing the shifter against a brick wall. If I turn off the truck and turn it back on, it works absolutely fine. I can shift into 2nd-5th no problem at all times. Is it just the shift linkage, or...? I'm not really sure where to start.
View 7 Replies1993 Celica GTS 2.2L N/a DOHC 5spd (S53 Trans)
My transmission is leaking. pretty badly apparently. I didn't think it was too bad, till it ran dry on me. Luckily I was about a mile from home, and most of it was downhill. so I limped it home where it sits now. I've ordered new seals for input, output, CVs, and shift shaft... am I missing anything? I also ordered a clutch kit, so if it's close to needing a clutch, it will get one, but it needed a throw out bearing, so I just went ahead and bought the kit (cause that made the bearing essentially free with the purchase of the clutch and pressure plates).
I have reason to believe that at least part of the leakage is at the input shaft, because my clutch seems perpetually dirty.
My 93 Celica GT Convertible 2.2 (5s-fe?) won't stay running at idle. It starts up fine but is loping and dies unless I give it some gas. I really don't know that much about engines, but I tried disconnecting the PCV valve and the engine began to run more or less normally. I've replaced the PCV with a new one but it didn't fix the problem. The replacement PCV valve didn't seem to fit quite as tightly as the old one but that may have been due to the age of the old one. I assume there is an air flow issue of some kind, but don't know where to look next. I just want to get it running so I can sell it.
View 2 RepliesI have a '93 Toyota Celica Standard transmission. Recently it's been lagging in power. Only happens after it's warmed up. I'll be driving along and it just seems to lose power. Have to stomp on the gas to get it to kick in. Also, at the same time, when stopped it idles really low. Cold, no problem. Took it to Toyota dealer to have it diagnosed. I Stated that it might be the MAF sensor. They checked it out and said it needed a major tune up (to the tune of $700!) Now, I know it needs a tune up, but the symptoms don't seem to correlate to that being the problem. I asked about the MAF sensor and they said no diagnostic codes came up. Is it possible the air filter is clogged? Can the sensor malfunction intermittently?
View 14 RepliesI recently changed my sway bar bushings when I jacked the car I notice oil is leaking because the shaft is all wet. My question is it an easy Job or will it cost and is it something that's hurtful to the car if I don't fix asap...
View 1 RepliesI've got a 1997 Dodge Ram with 150k miles. I was driving down the Parkway today and the drive shaft fell out of the rear differential. Is this a major problem? Can this be easily bolted back on or is this the end of my truck? Or something in between? I have no clue where I stand.
View 19 RepliesWhat are symptons of a "bad" drive shaft? Just curious because during a recent trip to the dealership for an oil change a mechanic told me I had one(I had mentioned I heard a noise that seemed to speed up and slow down as I drove-kind of a whirring noise). He arrived at that diagnosis by pushing down on the hood with enough force to make the vehicle(2002 Chevy Trail Blazer w/4wd) bounce up and down - there was a clunking noise. I haven't taken it in to have it looked at more closely, mainly because I am afraid of the cost. What's involved in replacing a drive shaft? What's the cost? If it is really "bad" will it break suddenly and cause an accident?
View 2 RepliesOk, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.