I just bought a 92 Toyota Celica for something to play around with. It's got just over 200,000 miles and everything seems to run alright except there is a really rough vibration at idle. The vibration is so bad that it's almost visible. You can still feel the vibration in drive but it isn't nearly as bad.
Any clue at what could be causing the vibration? I'll try to get a sound clip or video uploaded ....
It's a 1992 Celica, GTS 2.2L for reference.
After driving down the highway I noticed my temp fluctuated from half way to full and bounced around until I arrived at the closest Canadian Tire/Station. I looked under the hood and noticed the stain on the coolant container wasn't the actual level of coolant. I then topped off the coolant and parked the car for about a week. When I tried to start her up, I was faced with a weak and poor idle. Almost as if the car is struggling to run. I have had times in the recent years in the summer months were I felt I had to pump the pedal on really hot days to kickstart her so she would run. Was this a warning sign? Other than this problem I face, the car runs smooth. I did a good tune up 2 years back, replacing the ignition coil, plugs, etc..
The idle goes from 0 - 500RPM in neutral and when I apply gas it struggles to gain power. The car is parked, I don't dare to take her around the block. It stutters and seems like she is struggling to get fuel. I say that because, when the key is turned to the on position I do not hear the fuel pump underneath the back seat activate. I did try jumping the terminals, something like B+ and FP.... The pump turned on and I heard fuel but when I started the car, I still had the same problem. I would need to pump gas or she would stall out. I do not know where the fuel line is to try and check the pressure or even where the relay is located.
Could it be the Fuel Pump?
Could it be the Fuel Pump Relay?
Something Else?
My guess is the Fuel Pump, but if you could take a few mins and replay that would be great. I have had my Celica for about 7 years and I would like to keep her going!
Alright so I got a 92 toyota Celica 2.2 5SFE recently and guy before did a head gasket.. well i started to work on the car. fix things here and there. well one issue I cam across was low compression.. 170 170 30 90.. so i was like ok the guy didnt do it right.. took it apart. found out valves were stuck open. So i ordered a remmaned cylinder head to put in and new head gasket set etc.. replaced all gaskets that came with it..
Also put in remanned fuel injectors due to one leaking so i just replaced em all. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing belt, followed the oem manual word for word to install and remove and timing is right. But I got it all back together and ran great. until my tps went out(replacing that soon). Compression is now 180 across the board.
Now I got a knocking issue, Its quite apparent at idle/ low rpm.. solid sound, goes away at higher rpms, gets plenty of oil to cylinder head, started bout 150 miles after finishing. Im not sure where to start.
The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
View 3 RepliesBasically when the car is in D and when i am stopped with the brakes pressed on at a stop sign or a red light, the car starts vibrating and i can see the the rpm going down and then receiving back up and going down again something when the car is in R. its a 2009 toyota corolla le 90k miles. when the headlights are on, the rpm stays high so the car does not vibrate or anything. other than this the car runs perfectly fine.
View 1 RepliesMy 1992 Toyota, Celica had developed a really weird idle surge. The idle surges between 500 to 750 rpm. The surge goes away with the AC on and it idles steady at 900 Rpm. It also has a slight off idle bog that may just be another symptom of the weird idle.
I did the diagnostic test today and it doesn't flash any codes. I pulled the EGR valve off and cleaned the gunk out of it and it didn't make any difference. I tried to check the timing and it idles so bad the timing bounces 7-10 degrees with the surge. When I did the jumper to check the timing it would kill the engine. The plugs and wires are new with in a couple thousand miles. It runs fine above idle and pulls to redline easily in the lower gears.
Yesterday when I was messing with it I had the car running with the air boot from the air cleaner to throttle body off. I sprayed carb cleaner into throttle body and it seems to clear up a little bit. Then it went back to surging again.
I tried to pull the TPS off yesterday and of course the bottom screw stripped out. Now I will have to pull the throttle body off to get the screw out. I wish it would throw a code so I could have it give me a clue.
I just bought this little car. It ticks at an idle and it burns 1/4 qt of oil a month. It doesn't stop ticking when I add oil so Im at a loss.. It isn't a loud tick either. It has 200,000 miles on it but it is in great condition besides this.
View 13 RepliesI have a 1992 toyota celica st204 i got my dignosis and it come up with 12rpm signal cranking just wondering what it is and if it will cause my car to lose a bit of power .
View 1 RepliesI have a 92 Toyota Celica GT five speed that won't going to gear occasionally. I can drive several months at a time without having a problem and then all of a sudden when I start the car to put it in gear and I have to literally force it into gear or turn off the car and put it into gear. I can go 5,6,7 months at a time without having a problem. Then all of a sudden it won't work. I would say within the last year I have had the problem I'm maybe three times. The last being yesterday since about September. I have had the car for 10 years and have replaced the clutch maybe three years ago. I have been driven a manual shift car since I was 16. Last year around March I replaced the slave cylinder and the problem seem to go away. Do I really need another clutch?
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a 92 Celica gt (5s-fe). The engine feels like its misfiring and wont idle on its own.
I've done all the normal maintenance to it and the spark plugs all show normal signs of wear. I haven't verified fuel and spark yet. Check out the video below. The piece of cardboard is to keep the throttle partially open. Also, the exhaust is broken off at the flex pipe so excuse the awesome sound ...
[URL] ....
I've got an "on- and off-going" problem with my '92 S10 Blazer.
Car specs:
Year 1992
Blazer S10 4.3 Tbi
4- doors 4WD
Mileage 200k miles
Symptoms:
As cold, every now and then it will start right up, but the idle is wery rough, and seems like its running on less than 6 cylinders. When giving gas, it revs up, but runs roughly and still seems to be running on less than 6. Won't stall though.
When engine warms up after a couple of minutes, the idle gets smooth and no issues what ever when driving.
So just to be clear, this issue is so far only happening when staring cold.
Parts (new off course) changed recently (less than 500miles on them):
Distributor
Spark plugs + wires
Alternator
Battery
IAC valve
Fuel filter
This symptom came up now and then before changing any parts. I am quite handy with cars (pure amateur though), but can't really afford solving the proble by changing loads of parts with no effect..
I have a gorgeous, mint 4x4 1992 Toyota pickup...that runs terribly. Sometimes, it won't start. When it does start, it often idles very, very low. (Idler tension cable was adjusted up but it didn't work.) When I drive it, the idle goes up and down between very low and 4000 RPM. Sometimes, it stalls out all together, regardless of what I do to the clutch, brake, or acceleration. In an engine diagnosis, Knock Sensor came up, but there's a new one, and the cable harness is fully gone through. It's got a new engine with 67,000 miles on it, a new fuel pump, and just about every part has been replaced. It's been to about 10 mechanics, all of whom can't figure it out.
View 11 RepliesI recently bought a 1992 Celica GT with 250k miles on it. It has a rough idle and a couple other things that may or may not be stemming from the same thing that's causing the rough idle
Like I said, it has a rough idle and there is a bit of jerking sometimes during acceleration. The exhaust makes sort of a "put-put-put" or "chirping" sound at lower RPMs and the frequency of the sound corresponds to the engine RPM. I do know of a couple things that could be causing the rough idle and maybe even the jerking, but I'm not sure about the sound from the exhaust.
The cooling fans are hard wired to the ignition so they run constantly, so when it's cold out like it is right now it takes forever for the engine to warm up. Is there a switch somewhere that they are supposed to be wired through? Where would that be? Also, the previous owner did kind of a hack job of putting on a cold air intake and I think I may be missing some sensors, especially because it seems to burn more fuel than it should. What sensors are located on the air intake, or are there even some in the stock airbox itself? And would this possibly be contributing to the rough idle and the jerking?
Also, I do get some vibrations when stopped at idle so I think I may want to replace the motor mounts.
I have been having some recent issues with my 92 bird lately. It started minor but now the car will not stay on. It originally started out as I would need to press the gas to get it to start and it would stay on, but now if I let my foot off the gas for anything it will just idle rough and die out. I took it into a shop and they said that I had a bad idle control valve and the pigtails need to be replaced. They also said that some wires were shorted out and they would replace those as well. They replaced the Pigtails and the idle control valve and the car started to work fine again, for about 4 days only. I drove to the store and when I came back out to start it back up it wouldn’t stay on unless I gave it gas.
I had to drive it home giving it gas and using my other foot on the brake so that it didn’t due out. I checked the job they did and doesn’t even look like they did what they said they did. I looked at the botched shrink tube job they did and it just doesn’t look that professionally done. I did call the guy and he gave me an excuse and said that they short must have traveled further and he was surprised that the car was even running when they were done. I of course just hung up the phone after hearing that. I did a little looking around the engine and I noticed that if you unplug a vacuum tube and press on the gas and hold it at 2000 rpm for a few seconds and let off the car will stay on, but the moment I plug that hose back up with my finger or plug it back in the tube slot, the car idles rough for a few moments and dies.
I have a 92' Century w/107 K miles that has a medium rough idle. This is a summer use vehicle for me. I have done the normal maintenance on this motor w/ new plugs and a good Napa wire set. Any bad vacume lines that I can get at have been replaced including the vacume tree on top of the motor. Has anybody had coil issues or ground issues with this motor?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1991 Celica GT. 175K miles. The car recently developed an issue where it jerks back and forth at light throttle, sort of like a newbie trying to learn to drive a stick. It happens at pretty much any speed, but is less pronounced at the higher speeds (45 MPH). In addition, it will not idle at a constant speed and cycles between 1100 rpm and about 300... or kill.
I've taken the throttle body off and IAC valve off and cleaned them both but it didn't change the behavior. If I pinch the line to the MAP sensor, the idle straightens out at about 1100 rpm. Disconnecting the MAP sensor gives good idle, but no performance while driving, so not a solution.
Things I haven't done yet: check continuity on throttle position sensor, checked MAP sensor (how?).
1992, shory 3.0 130K MILES
On start up runs very rough, will stall if not power braked or revd a little on start up/out of the driveway.
VOLT METER STARTS GOING NUTS!!
After a mile/warm up,,, runs great. But sometimes even when its hot, it will still try to do the rough idle briefly after just a few minutes restart. Give it a few revs at that point and its good. And once in a blue moon it will do it randomly at a stop light,, out of the blue. Very rare
I have a 1986 Celica GT-S with 50,000 original miles on it. Car starts perfectly fine in the morning, runs fine, no issues. Problem happens when the engine is warm, and I let it cool off for about 10 minutes or so, at that point, when I try and turn the engine over, it would sometimes turn over and idle very rough, or sometimes it would die and I have to give it gas to keep the engine running. Once I am able to get it in gear and drive, the engine rpm would recover and go back to normal. I have new NGK wires, denso iridium spark plugs.
View 2 RepliesAt idle (like at a stop sign or sitting in the drive way) my '92 Toyota revs up and dies down (kind of a "brrrrvvvvvv-buh... brrrrvvvvvvvv-buh") We have been fixing it up and got ahold of another Toyota that has a decent motor but the body, frame, and everything else is shot. We are pulling a starter out of it and was wondering if the part that causes the gallop could be replaced too.
View 4 RepliesI have a 100% stock 2004 Celica GT ~125,000 miles. Over the last few months I have been getting a rough idle and stumble at low rpms. The other day the car would not restart after sitting for about 20 minutes. Only recently has it actually thrown a DTC. The error codes were for misfires (P0300, P0301,P0302,P0303, P0304). I don’t get a code every time but the problem seems to be more noticeable if the car has been ran for a while, sits for 20-30 minutes while in a store and then when I try to start it when I come out of the store is when the problem most often occurs. When it restarts it will stumble at low RPM and if I hit the gas it has little response and misses badly. I have never used a scanner until now. I am using a Autel MS509 scanner and I am not sure it is giving me the correct diagnostic numbers for the live data. I think the DTC are correct but the live data is questionable.
Here is what I have done so far.
- Cleaned IAC valve (completely removed and cleaned)
- Searched for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Replaced all 4 injectors
- Replaced upstream and downstream O2 sensors
- Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor
- Ensured cam tensioner is providing adequate pressure to the cam chain
- Tried 2 sets of new Iridium NGK plugs and a new set of Bosch Copper plugs
- Moved coil packs around
- New air filter
- New fuel filter
- SeaFoam through intake and gas tank. I have not mixed in the oil.
- Compression Test (1=190,2=190,3=160,4=178)
Things I have not done.
- Taken it to the stealership
- Fuel pressure test
- Valve Clearance
I am concerned about the compression test because according to the service manual it should be around 218. I was using a Harbor Freight compression tester and I am not 100% sure I had a good seal with the tester.