Celica :: 1992 5SFE Auto Sputters At Half Throttle
Feb 13, 2016
My 92 Celica 5SFE 2.2L auto sputters at half throttle. But if I release gas pedal, performance normalizes. I already changed spark plugs cables, ignition coil fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned injectors, replaced timing belt, engine starts right up and idles a bit high, around 1300 RPM when cold in Park, then when warm 800 RPM in drive. I don't know if it's an electrical issue or a vacuum related issue, spark plugs get carbon fouled after driving like this. I'm tired of having all the newer cars pass me by and my car "running" on 3 pistons.
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Yesterday, I was taking off from a light and noticed that when I got around 10 PSI, the car kind of nosed over and sputtered. So I started to play around and discovered that no matter what gear, this always happened between 7-12 PSI of boost. Normal driving for me is shifting around 3k RPM, about half throttle. Sometimes when I shift, it pops. Not like a normal, chipped car pop but not quite loud enough to be a backfire.
I took my dad out in the car and got to 55 MPH, then held the throttle half way to keep boost around 10 PSI and it would start sputtering/bogging down erratically. Any more then 12, and the car is fine. Any less then 7 and the car is fine. He suggested a Throttle Position Sensor that has a dead spot in it.
Here's some thought from me:
Coils/Misfires - If it were a coil or misfiring, it would be all the time, not just what I described above, correct?
Boost Leak - At WOT, the car gets up and goes while holding steady boost.
Vac Leak - I've been told at idle, the car is supposed to have 19-21 in Hg of vacuum. It's at 20.
If you turn your speakers up, you can actually hear the exhaust gurgling in the video when I hit the spot I am talking about. There are no loud noises, so don't worry about maxing them. I had to.
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So I've replaced my head gasket on my 5SFE. But after putting my car back together, my car didn't want start. This is how it sounds like (click on the video to watch it).
So I suspected that my timing was off, so I took off the valve cover to check the timing marks on the camshafts. So the two timing punches lined up like so (I only took picture of one of them)
Though I'm not too sure what the two dots mean on the exhaust camshaft since there are not two similar dots on the intake camshaft.
So I'll assume that I have my camshafts lined up properly But how do I know that it is in time with the pistons?
Could it be the distributor? I am not too sure if I installed it correctly, but I did follow instructions in the Chilton manual.
On the other end, there were two vacuum lines that I'm not sure if I installed correctly. I'm positive that the left two pipes are correct; however, I'm not too sure about the two on the right. This is mounted on the cylinder head.
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I was driving back home from work and I happen to notice smoke. Oil is coming out of the top of the dipstick hole not the bottom o ring. It seems the crank is building too much pressure . It's a 1990 5sfe so it does not have a pcv valve,ithasa pcv system which is basically a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body.
This does not happen initially when I turn the car on from a cold start. I turn it on leave it at idle for a while and even rev it up and hold it high. It starts to leak after about a 2 mile drive and the car is at running temperature. I removed the hose on the valve cover when the car was at idle and a good amount if air blows out when at idle now when I rev the car up the air blowing out drops some.
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Installed a "new" battery in my celica (it was used but tested good) went to start up the car to see if it was good and the car started right up
Shut the car off cleaned up my throttle body a bit the went to start the car again it it would just crank and crank
I just put in a new fuel pump, so that cant be it, I have not checked for spark yet ( car is stuck at work )
I heard that the ignition coil likes to fail on these would that be causing this problem?
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Once again my Celica is having a similar issue. Originally over 6 months ago i had an issue with my MAP Sensor which was causing extreme hesitation issues and the car was basically not safe to drive in traffic.
The issue that is now occurring is that i can start my car fine and drive around on flat normal roads with no issues but ive noticed once i go up a steep or decent hill/driveway the car will start to bog down around 1500-2100 RPM.
Once it starts to play up it continues to do so even on flat roads.
Have Checked:
- MAP Sensor - OK
- Distributor - OK
- Leads - Old but still ok, plan to replace later.
- Spark Plugs - Ok
- Spark Plug Wells - They had oil in them few weeks ago, cleaned out and hasent returned.
- Need to replace Valve cover gasket to fix this i believe.
- Fuel is ok.
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Just finished a timing belt job on my 93 celica 5sfe. Filled the coolant up and burped engine. All seems to be well. My question is related to the coolant overflow tank. The cap has a hose attached on one end coming from the radiator and another coming out the other side that is short and L shaped. The L shaped hose isn't attached to anything and is open allowing air to either vent out or vent in to the overflow tank. There isn't any place nearby where the hose might attach to. Is this hose supposed to be "unattached" as it is now or should it be closed to create vacuum for the overflow tank to allow coolant back in to the radiator?
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I have a 2001 mercury cougar, every time the fuel gets to a half tank or below it stalls when going up a hill or around a curve, anytime u give it extra acceleration when it's a half tank or below it stalls and sputters, it's been in the shop for 3 months and got it out and ran good for a day now back bad I need a mechanics advice on what it could be other than fuel pump, fuel filter, o2 sensor, or plugs and wires... I've tried all of them...
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I own a Celica '00 and have been driving it for 8 years. In the last year I've noticed that my CEL started coming on. Did some scans and got P0171 error code from Autozone. The Celica was running lean and took some time to accelerate but run fine for a while. It got worse soon and I took it to a mechanic. He diagnosed a bad Cat Converter and he replaced it with an universal one. He also replaced the first Oxygen sensor, Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump and the Mass Air Flow sensor. Car's CEL came back one after 10 miles of driving. At that time I put in a 4" silencer for my muffler. The silencer had a 2.5" opening and worked well to lower the muffler noise.
The CEL was still on and I disconnected the negative on the battery to see if I can reset it. Well, once I connected it back and tried to turn on my Car all hell broke loose. The engine now has extreme sputters, shakes and hesitates to accelerate above 5-10mph. I barely drove it back to the mechanic. He still is not sure what the problem is, he thinks replacing the other sensors and troubleshooting the coils should be the next step. I'm wondering if my silencer could have caused any damage? Also, I'm wondering if there is valve damage inside the cylinder? The code we're getting now is Cylinder 4 misfire. What about the Fuel filter? I don't think it has been changed at all. The car is at 122,000 miles right now.
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A buddy of mine has a stock 1.8t auto with some miles on it. THe car sputters after you come off full throttle and then the check engine light comes on. we have replaced the blue coolant temp sensor and the 4 coils and plugs. car is still doing this.
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I drive a 1992 Chrysler Imperial. It generally runs really good and I've only had a few minor problems with it. I try to keep up with maintenance for the most part and it only has100000 miles on it. I've had a problem with stalling lately - but mostly when I turn left. It only has such problems when I'm below a half tank of gas.
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2005 tundra sporadically misfires/sputters after slowing/downshifting (autotrans) to 2nd gear.....then when accelerator is kicked a bit the engine wants to spit/sputter like a misfire or flooding..... V8 engine by the way.
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I have a 1992 celica 2.2. Its had been running fine till this summer. I go and start it up this morning and drive a mile or so turn the car off go take care of some stuff letting it sit for about and hour and a half. Start it back up then go to drive off and it dies and won't start back up. I let it sit for an hour and then it started back up and drove fine.
I have replaced the spark plugs, and the ignition coil inside the distributor and checked for codes but got none.
I starts fine on the first start of the day but after that it doesn't want to start.
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My 1992 Toyota, Celica had developed a really weird idle surge. The idle surges between 500 to 750 rpm. The surge goes away with the AC on and it idles steady at 900 Rpm. It also has a slight off idle bog that may just be another symptom of the weird idle.
I did the diagnostic test today and it doesn't flash any codes. I pulled the EGR valve off and cleaned the gunk out of it and it didn't make any difference. I tried to check the timing and it idles so bad the timing bounces 7-10 degrees with the surge. When I did the jumper to check the timing it would kill the engine. The plugs and wires are new with in a couple thousand miles. It runs fine above idle and pulls to redline easily in the lower gears.
Yesterday when I was messing with it I had the car running with the air boot from the air cleaner to throttle body off. I sprayed carb cleaner into throttle body and it seems to clear up a little bit. Then it went back to surging again.
I tried to pull the TPS off yesterday and of course the bottom screw stripped out. Now I will have to pull the throttle body off to get the screw out. I wish it would throw a code so I could have it give me a clue.
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I just bought this little car. It ticks at an idle and it burns 1/4 qt of oil a month. It doesn't stop ticking when I add oil so Im at a loss.. It isn't a loud tick either. It has 200,000 miles on it but it is in great condition besides this.
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I have a 1992 celica GT 2.2l A/T. I was on my way home today from college and my car started to overheat right before i made it home. It was steaming a bit and the temp gauge was tacked out. when i pulled into my apartment i noticed a light brown colored liquid in my parking spot, and alot of it.
I saw this same liquid at my college campus and assumed it was a coffee someone spilled near my car, but now i know it came from my car. I haven't had a chance to check my houses yet as i just got home and my cars still really hot. I know its not power steering fluid b/c that's been empty all week b/c my reservoir leaks. Why my car is overheating and what liquid is coming from it. Oh also the liquid seems to be coming from the right front portion of the car.
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I have a 92 celica gt with a 2.2 and I got it on the road and the next day it wouldn't start just kept turning over and not firing and it flooded itself I plugged in the block heater and about 20 to 30 minutes later it started no problem and now 3 days later I'm having the same problem but can't plug it in because it's at my work..... what it might be????
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98 AEB just rebuilt the engine completely, put a K04-15 turbo on it along with a FMIC and a forge diverter/BOV. Everything runs great idles great. when i try to get into it it bucks at 4500+ rpm. when i baby it she runs great smooth sailing. Is this a fuel issue?
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I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0 and I was accelerating on the interstate the other day and the car just started bogging down and now the car only accelerates slowly at partial throttle any more and it makes a loud intake noise and bogs down also the car idles bad and even at partial throttle the car struggles to get above 3k rpm, I scan for codes and got MAF, O2 sensor before the cat and camshaft position sensor, I replaced the camshaft position sensor and car still runs like crap, what is the problem??
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I have a 1985 Ford F250 with a 351 windstar in it. I just put a new fuel pump and fuel filter on my truck and it starts and drives but back fires really bad. Sparks are hitting just fine and I am almost positive that all vacuum lines are plugged in or plugged off. What it would be? What about the float could it cause that. Its fine at half throttle but backfires anymore than that.
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I have a 1992 toyota celica st204 i got my dignosis and it come up with 12rpm signal cranking just wondering what it is and if it will cause my car to lose a bit of power .
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