I have a 1991 celica that I can not get to start. The car has the 3sfe 2.0 in it that I think came out of an 89 celica. We have put a new starter on this car, alternator, plugs, wires and distributor cap, battery and more onto this car. The car however will push start. When you turn the key everything comes on and it clicks. Nothing else happens.
View 7 RepliesIts a 1991 Toyota celica with the 1.6 and 5 speed trans. the motor on cold or hot start up shakes really bad and has a lot of valve chatter. Along with that, the motor does not want to rev at all, almost like you are not even touching the gas, but you have it to the floor. A little back ground on the car is, the car sat for 6 months and i bought it from a friend to drive back and forth to work to keep miles of my supra. He said that the CAT was plugged so i replaced it. I have replaced the coil pack, distro cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, rotor button, catalytic converter, air intake, and all the air tubes that looked like they were cracking. Now I can start the car, and it does the same thing. I thought it may be out of time, just because that is sort of what its acting like. I have had the motor rev up 3 times since i have had the car. But everytime I do it back fires and DIES, the car will not start til after the car cools down.
View 2 RepliesIt acts like it is fuel poor, As if the fuel pump is not pumping. It spins fast on start. Then another try and it starts! No relationship to hot or cold. Fuel OK. Battery strong. I find no corrosion on fuel pump leads.
View 8 RepliesMy cousins car died. cranks but NO start. It was not very well taken care of, but it is her daily driver. Threw a code 12, which is SOMETHING with the ignition.
Have replaced the...
distributer/cap/rotor
spark plugs
wires
ignition coil
valve cover gasket [unrelated HUGE oil leak]
100a ALT fuse
Timing is correct as far as i can tell, 12 volts at both wires for the ignition coil
Battery is good, alt is good...
Ok my car is not starting. It is not turning over when you turn the key and push in the clutch. I can here a relay click under the drivers side dash. I can push start it and it runs great, sometimes it will start and run fine but it is a frequent problem now. What could be causing me these problems. 1991 Honda Civic DX ....
View 10 RepliesI've got an 1989 Celica St that as it warms up it pushes water out through the overflow bottle. The car seems to be cooling ok as long as I don't get stuck in traffic. My daily commute is approximately 40 miles and if I keep refilling the radiator the car stays relatively cool. However, if I do not stop and let the car cool off between commuting to and from work the car loses enough coolant that eventually it starts to overheat and I need to pull over and refill the radiator once again. I have replaced the radiator cooling fan already and am going to flush the radiator this afternoon. I am thinking that the head gasket might be leaking and causing my problems. What to try next b4 I tear the head off? BTW the motor is a 2.0 L 16 valve. Hoping I can fix this problem w/o a head gasket.
View 14 Repliesi have a 91 celica 4AFE 1.6L 5 speed & the cooling fan won't come on. we checked, the fan does work, we changed the fan relay & that's not the problem. what should i do now?
View 14 RepliesI have a 91 celica with a 4afe engine and i cant get any spark. i replaced the distributor today and still no spark what else should be replaced...
View 14 RepliesI have a 91 celica st and my efi fuse keeps blowing. i would like to know what the efi fuse controls, or what to check first.
View 3 RepliesI just purchased 91 Celica GT and have so far been very pleased except for one major problem. I thought Toyotas are suppose to get great gas mileage?. My car is an automatic with 150000 miles on the odometer. I'm getting around 19 mpg on the expressway. I bought this car thinking about good gas mileage. Is this normal mileage.
I've had the car tuned up (new plugs, wires, cap, etc.) I took it to my mechanic who put it on a computer and the emissions read O.K. and no code faults. I took it to a trans shop to see if the trans. was shifting O.K. and it checks out O.K.and the overdrive is working normally. I even double checked the timing to see if maybe the previous owner set the timing wrong when changing the belt. Checks out O.K.
The car seems to run and idle great with no roughness. Is this gas mileage normal and if not, how to improve it. I get better gas mileage from my 91 SUV explorer...
I have a 1991 Toyota Celica ST184 5SFE that has only just started to have a few issues with the Speedometer.
Issue: When driving the Speedometer may jump up and down and when taking foot off the gas it will instantly drop. Happens now and then it may work again.
I have taken the car to the mechanics and they have confirmed that the car uses a Sensor for the Speedometer.
I took my car to an Auto Electrical Mechanic and he did a few tests on the car using a tool that showed the speed of the Sensor when Driving and he has confirmed that the Sensor is working correctly as he can see the speed while driving.
He mentioned that there is likely to be an issue within the Dash and possibly a loose cable or a bad resistor.
How to troubleshoot this on the Dash and how to remove it correctly without damaging anything.
I got 91 celica gts recently started to tap when the motor is warm I've changed cap button wires plugs still getting this noise might be chatter but only when warm not there when cold.
View 5 RepliesMy cooling fan just stoped working the other day (not sure why) i replaced the fuses and relays they are all good. Now when i unhook it from the radiator fan switch it turns on but plug it back in and well it shuts off, i put a new switch to see if it will work but it started running real rough and hard to start so i put the old one back on and nothing changed. I read the book and checked everything but still nothing and why my engine light came on and it started running rough.
its a 91 celica 1.6 (4AFE)
I have a 1991 Toyota Celica GT with 220,000 on it. Will a valve job improve gas milage? I currently get about 22 mpg city driving if I use medium grade gas. The reason I ask is that I was thinking of getting a new car - but a valve job would be a lot less$$$ and I just can't see buying a new car that get less gas milage.
View 9 RepliesMy sister has a 1991 toyota celica GT ITS 5spd with the 2.2L in it which is the 2200 twin cam and all that. Last week her alternater went out. I replaced it and got the correct belt tension good volts going everything but now when she is going down the road doesn't matter what gear anywhere from 1800-2800 rpms her car jerks like its missing i checked the plugs and they are white which means its starving for fuel but when its cold its no problem drives perfect i was thinking replacing new plugs new wire distributor cap and fuel filter and seeing if that solves it...
View 19 RepliesWhich line goes to front brakes and which to rear from the master cylinder?
View 1 Replieswhile out of town the big belt that runs the alternater and ac broke and took out the power steering belt. I replaced the big belt but do not know how to do the power steering one. I can hardly see the back sprocket.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1991 toyota celica st and I recently broke some belts. I think I broke 2 belts. Any diagram of the belts and pulleys because I don't know where to loosen the pulleys to replace the belts. What each belt powers?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1991 celica gt 5sfe hatchback. I am getting a surging at constant speed, at idle it's fine as well as acceleration. It only does it when trying to maintain a constant speed in the range of 10-50 mph or so. It's feels like I'm pushing the gas and letting off repeatedly. I took it to get an emissions test and it failed on the low side test with high co2 reading, everything else is fine and one place couldn't do the test because the surging kept kicking the computer out since they have to keep it at a constant 15 mph speed. I think whatever is causing the surging is causing me to fail the low side emissions. Could it be the iecu?
View 10 RepliesThis is on a '91 Celica GT, 5SFE engine, with front disks and rear drums, and no ABS.
Whenever braking, the front passenger wheel seems to be doing much more of the braking work. In the wet, its very easy to lock up the front pass wheel under pretty mild braking. In the dry the same wheel is always the first to lock up, considerably before the drivers front, and much before they should, based on the deceleration.
I recently had to replace all the brake hoses, and a long run of hard brake line from the engine compartment back to the gas tank. I've bled the system multiple times and doublechecked all the connections, and cannot find any leaks. With no brakes applied, all wheels spin freely.
It seems like the braking circuit for the driver front wheel is not working as well as it should be. Is the passenger rear brake on the same circuit as the driver front? This seems like air still in the lines somewhere.
Could the master cylinder be causing distribution problems between the two circuits?
1991 Celica ST 4A-FE automatic, 238,000 miles, son's car, has been running great, until he says his oil light occasionally flickers on him. Car is in Wisconsin, driven maybe 2 miles one way to work every day, hasn't been on the highway is a couple months. Has synthetic 5W-30 oil with about 2,000 miles since last change.
Brought the car into the garage. Sure enough, after engine warmed up and idle got below 1,000 RPM, oil pressure warning lamp would come on. Engine sounded normal at idle and fast idle. Tough to put a mechanical pressure gauge on this engine (after to remove the alternator and A/C compressor and bracket, per the service manual, to access the oil pressure switch). I drove it on the highway, put about 40 miles on it, ran great, until I exited the highway. Anything below 1200 RPM, oil pressure warning light would come on.
Came home, removed the oil filter with intent to change it (to make sure it wasn't plugged). Smelled of gas. Oh-Oh. Drained the oil (oil level was at full mark, unusual for this vehicle, normally would be 1/2-quart low after 2,000 miles - 2 months of winter driving). Oil came out with consistency of water. Smelled of gas, and could see water droplets as I switch the drained oil from a collection pan into a jug. Thought was many short trips caused oil to never get hot enough to burn off unburned fuel blow-up or accumulated moisture, so oil was diluted, much too low viscosity.
Changed oil & filter with synthetic 5W-30 & Purolator PureOne oil filter. Took it back on the highway for 40 miles again. Highway drive was fine. Upon exiting, oil pressure warning light came on at 1,600 RPM or below. Oh-Oh. Had another 40 miles on the highway to get home. Highway drive was good again. Upon existing, oil pressure warning light came on again at 1,800 RPM or lower. Oh-Oh.
Worrying that the oil pump for pressure by-pass valve or of bearing spin-out or extreme wear (although engine sounded fine all the time), decided to order an OEM oil pressure switch. Had to take some of the bolt-ons off to access the oil pressure switch, but not all the service manual said had to come off. Took the old oil pressure switch out - looked just fine. Installed the new one, put everything back together. Checked to make sure the oil pressure warning light still came on with key in the ON position (it did), so I knew the wiring connections were good. Startup was fine (cold engine). Took it on the highway for 40 miles, after exiting highway, no more oil pressure warning light. Even tested the situation with the automatic in drive, brake applied, lights on high-beam, heater fan on high, rear window defroster on (got the engine down to 600 RPM), still not oil pressure warning light. Turned engine off, then turned ignition key to ON, oil pressure warning light comes on like it should.