Celica :: 1991 - Cooling Fan Stopped Working
Apr 7, 2013
My cooling fan just stoped working the other day (not sure why) i replaced the fuses and relays they are all good. Now when i unhook it from the radiator fan switch it turns on but plug it back in and well it shuts off, i put a new switch to see if it will work but it started running real rough and hard to start so i put the old one back on and nothing changed. I read the book and checked everything but still nothing and why my engine light came on and it started running rough.
its a 91 celica 1.6 (4AFE)
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i have a 91 celica 4AFE 1.6L 5 speed & the cooling fan won't come on. we checked, the fan does work, we changed the fan relay & that's not the problem. what should i do now?
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My 1991 240 always had 2 working back up lights. After one of two garage visits recently (with them not working on my lighting), one of the two stopped working.
The last visit (a different garage) I just made with this time the mechanics working on a tail light issue as well as other stuff now has me with the 2nd back up light not working. Since one mechanic lost me the use of one and another mechanic lost me the use of the other.
How I can troubleshoot this and get one or both "back" on my own?
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I have a 91 Ranger that the A/C was working great in but all of a sudden it stopped working even the fan. I turned it of and back on and it started again but then just stopped for good I can get the fan to work sometime, but no cold air. What it might be?
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I own a 2006 Prius with 52k miles on it. Great car BTW. The problem is simple, the radiator cooling fans stopped working on high mode; they run around 25% only even, not removing the heat from the a/c evaporator and the radiator coolant. I checked fuses: OK, checked relays: OK. They spin freely and nothing is blocking the front face of the evaporator. Funny I noticed it when I started hearing the a/c compressor buzzing noise and then I realized the fan noise wasn't there!
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I have a 2012 basic PiP, purchased in June 2012. The air conditioner stopped working (no cooling) about a month ago.
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I have a 1991 740 Wagon with ~153,000 miles. I say approximately, because the speedometer, the odometer, and cruise control stopped working. My mechanic says it is the sensor loctated on the differential, I believe he said.
2 questions: My local Volvo junkyard has gone out of business; where is a good place online to get used parts? and second, .is sensor difficult to replace? I can fix things that are easy.
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My engine is overheating, plenty of coolant but fan stopped working. Not sure whether to check fuse first. Dont actually know which fuse box to look in.
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The radio in my 1991 Honda Civic has been dying a slow death over the past year. First it would stop working if the weather was too hot. Then it would only work sporadically, finally it almost never worked. Whenever the radio stopped working, there would be a loud electrical "pop" sound, so I thought it might have a short. Yesterday my husband fixed the upper rear brake light (cleaned contacts) so it would pass inspection. Now the radio works perfectly! Are the brake lights and radio on the same circuit?
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3 weeks ago my father (who died 2 weeks ago) gave me his 1991 Infiniti G20 which he has kept in great condition over the years with the last few being the exception. He's the original owner and I have paperwork from every repair and service it's had. Unfortunately the issue it has now started happening after he passed so I'm not going to get info about how it's been running the last couple years. Now to the good stuff.
When I got the car it was outside under a carport like always (lives near Seattle). I drove the car about 200 miles and then a couple days later I noticed the turn signal stopped working, but not only that there were several things not working. The turn signals (yet hazard lights work), the seat belt motor will not let it roll back across my chest, the blower won't work but the AC and heat still works, the rear defogger stopped, the ABS stopped, and the warning lights and sounds for doors open and seat belts were undone don't work.
Then while driving everything just "clicked" back on for about 5 minutes, then "clicked back off the rest of the drive. The next day I started the car, everything was fine but after waiting a couple minutes for the windows to get defogged everything shut off again. Driving around with foggy windows, no turn signals, and no seat belt across my chest is starting to scare me. Oh, and the problem can turn on and off without the engine on. If I just put the key into the "on" position it will sometime switch between working and not working.
I have unplugged and replugged the fuses and relays on the left side under the steering wheel, I've checked the voltage of the battery (2 years old with 7 year warranty and alternator was replaced 18 months ago) and it was about 12.4. I've tried reading the wiring diagram in the service manual without any luck figuring it out. When I took it to the Nissan dealership they did their scans and couldn't recreate the issue and charged me $100 just for doing the electrical tests.
I want this car to keep going since it has 174,000 miles and runs great (manual trans) so need to figure out whats going on. It doesn't seem like it's a loose wire because the car doesn't have to move for it to go back and forth between working and failing. It sometimes works more often if the car is kept in a garage but even then I'm not sure. At one point in the last year a couple mice got into the trunk but they have since left and I don't see anything in the manual that says they could have effected anything all the way back there.
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I have a 1991 F-250 Supercab with the 7.3 L Diesel and twin fuel tanks.Recently the gauge sender for the forward tank stopped working. Ford tells me that the sending unit is obsolete. Perhaps they want me to buy a new truck. I recently found a NOS sender on E-bay but it is supposedly for the plastic fuel tank and mine is the steel tank. What steps would I need to take to make this sender work in my truck? Do I need to eliminate a ground wire, add aground wire, or make up insulators to prevent the sender shorting out on the steel tank?
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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Several months ago some kind of sensor was replaced on my 1991 Honda Accord. This was the case where the fan would sometimes go on after the engine was turned off. And to turn off the fan it was sometimes necessary to turn on the ignition.
What led up to all this was that one time I was driving up a fairly steep incline to a park. When I turned the engine off that is when the fan turned itself on.
Well, I drove up to that park the other day and the same thing happened (after the whatever was replaced). One thing different though, I did detect a faint whiff of what smelled like burning rubber when I exited the car (to check on the fan).
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I have a 91 celica with a 4afe engine and i cant get any spark. i replaced the distributor today and still no spark what else should be replaced...
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I have a 1991 celica that I can not get to start. The car has the 3sfe 2.0 in it that I think came out of an 89 celica. We have put a new starter on this car, alternator, plugs, wires and distributor cap, battery and more onto this car. The car however will push start. When you turn the key everything comes on and it clicks. Nothing else happens.
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I have a 91 celica st and my efi fuse keeps blowing. i would like to know what the efi fuse controls, or what to check first.
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I just purchased 91 Celica GT and have so far been very pleased except for one major problem. I thought Toyotas are suppose to get great gas mileage?. My car is an automatic with 150000 miles on the odometer. I'm getting around 19 mpg on the expressway. I bought this car thinking about good gas mileage. Is this normal mileage.
I've had the car tuned up (new plugs, wires, cap, etc.) I took it to my mechanic who put it on a computer and the emissions read O.K. and no code faults. I took it to a trans shop to see if the trans. was shifting O.K. and it checks out O.K.and the overdrive is working normally. I even double checked the timing to see if maybe the previous owner set the timing wrong when changing the belt. Checks out O.K.
The car seems to run and idle great with no roughness. Is this gas mileage normal and if not, how to improve it. I get better gas mileage from my 91 SUV explorer...
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I have a 1991 Toyota Celica ST184 5SFE that has only just started to have a few issues with the Speedometer.
Issue: When driving the Speedometer may jump up and down and when taking foot off the gas it will instantly drop. Happens now and then it may work again.
I have taken the car to the mechanics and they have confirmed that the car uses a Sensor for the Speedometer.
I took my car to an Auto Electrical Mechanic and he did a few tests on the car using a tool that showed the speed of the Sensor when Driving and he has confirmed that the Sensor is working correctly as he can see the speed while driving.
He mentioned that there is likely to be an issue within the Dash and possibly a loose cable or a bad resistor.
How to troubleshoot this on the Dash and how to remove it correctly without damaging anything.
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This car started overheating while at drive thru and I noticed the cooling fan was not on. The coolant overflow tank was bubbling and the top had come off spilling coolant. dre it home and it runs hot now while driving. I pulled over a couple hours and let it cool off and then added coolant to the radiator directly and drove home with no issue.
Checked coolant level today and it was fine and I drove it a mile and back to the store with no issues. I wanted to ask how I could rig the cooling fan to stay on all the time to see if that is the problem before sinking money into t plus I am not convinced there is a more serious problem especially since it ran hot while driving.
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I got 91 celica gts recently started to tap when the motor is warm I've changed cap button wires plugs still getting this noise might be chatter but only when warm not there when cold.
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I have a 1991 Toyota Celica GT with 220,000 on it. Will a valve job improve gas milage? I currently get about 22 mpg city driving if I use medium grade gas. The reason I ask is that I was thinking of getting a new car - but a valve job would be a lot less$$$ and I just can't see buying a new car that get less gas milage.
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