Celica :: 1990 - Key Won't Turn In Ignition Switch
Jan 5, 2012
When I put my key in the ignition, I cannot turn the key. I tried putting a small amount of WD40 in the ignition and turning the wheel back and forth while trying to start, but all that did was make my key greasy and my wheel lock up. I've tried getting a new key made from Lowes and Home Depot, but their keys are too wide and will not fit in the keyholes. The only thing I am down to is replacing the ignition switch completely but I'd rather do that as a last resort because my car has had a big problem every week (alternator gone, new wheels, new master cylinder, new rotors/brakes). I haven't explored yet? And also, if it comes down to replacing the ignition switch, how would I do that without being able to turn the key?
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Is it possible to change the ignition switch without the key. Problem is my old key broke so im replacing the whole switch.
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I have a 1990 toyota celica. The parking attendant somehow locked the steering wheel and the key will no longer turn in the lock. I tried everything i could think of: turning the wheel whilst turning the key, putting car in all positions other than park and then turning the wheel and key, changing the key, etc....The steering wheel remains locked and will not unlock.
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Had to replace the ignition switch. after I went to crank it after switching it out, there was a buzzing around the relay control module. Thought that maybe somehow the ignition tripped something in it so bought a new one. IT is still buzzing and car won't turn over. everything lights up on dash. tried to see if there were any codes and the scanner just reads "fail".
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I was having all the tell tale signs of the almighty ignition switch. No lights, wipers, heater fan. But I didn't have time to change it. The other day went to start it and nothing. I changed the switch I have headlights wipers blower fan now which is sweet. But the car still wont turn over.
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I put my LS 430 key in my RX330 yesterday, I realized as soon as the ignition would not turn. I put the RX key in, and ignition will not turn. I'm assuming that the pins may be locked so I tried a few options.
- I wiggled the key.
- I lubricated the lock.
- I tried rocking the car while trying to turn the ignition.
- I tapped the ignition lightly with a screw driver and hammer, but no luck.
- I turn the steering wheel while turning ignition to make sure its not locked.
I really don't want to get the car towed to the stealer/dealer.
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I have a problem with turning my key. It will not turn at all. I have taken the upper and lower part of the cover off to expose the switch and removed one screw from the ignition housing, but the internal part of the ignition switch will not come out. How do I completely remove this ignition switch. I have already removed the negative battery cable. It seems this is a continual problem with focuses. Oh, do I need a releasing tool to release the ignition switch.
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I have a 2000 Staturn LW2 auto, 6cyl. When I try to turn on the car, sometimes the engine does not turn, doesn't make a sound, nothing. When I move the steering wheel, it turns on fine, it has to be in a certain position. Does that mean, the ignition switch is faulty or is it the pin? Is there a test I can do?
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I am having a little issue with the ignition in my car. I had the typical no headlights/wipers/heater etc. so I ordered up a new ignition switch and when I went to replace it, the switch fit perfectly and had the correct part number but when I put my key in to try and start the car I couldn't even turn the key but when I put the old switch back in it would turn just fine. Also when I removed the old switch I noticed the red wire going to the switch was slightly burnt right at the terminal.
Here is the basic procedure I did:
-Unhook negative battery cable
-remove lower dash/ center console
-remove switch
-install new switch
Whats this little metal piece? I did not see that when I did mine...
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I'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
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I have recently been having problems getting the ignition switch to turn. There seems to be a negative correlation to warmer weather (the warmer the weather, the more likely I will have a negative experience --- and I will get the switch to turn only with some difficulty). When I have such a failure (in which the switch does not turn), I take the key out, wipe it off with my hand, flip it over and shove it back in. Sometimes this works with one try. Sometimes it takes multiple tries. My fear, of course, is that one of these times it will never work, and I will be stranded. I should add that I do have another key, and that I have had the same experience with this key. I don't really want to spend hundreds of dollars on a new ignition switch... and I especially don't if that is really not the problem.
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97 Toyota Camry 2.2l motor.
Sometimes, when I turn the ignition on I don't hear a sound and all the power dies in the car (the radio ejects the CD and all the presets are erased when I turn it out of start). This can happen once or twice in a row then generally the car starts up normally.
The battery is brand new (1 month) and is fully charged. My hope is that it's the starter drawing too much power when it tries to start? It's entirely possible it has the factory starter still on the car.
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In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
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'04 RX330: Starting about a year ago, occasionally when inserting the ignition key it wouldn't turn to start. Take key out try again and it would start. Progressively, it seems to be requiring more and more in/out cycles to get the key to turn. It's like the transponder is not recognizing the key FOB. I have two keys, one is a master and other is a sub key, both have the problem. What has to be done to correct it? I'm afraid the dealer will just change some expensive ignition part when there's an easier fix.
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I'm trying to get friend's 04 F150 4x4 started. I think it might be the ignition switch. Here's what I've done. Turn the Key and nothing happens. Not even a clicking sound from the battery.
-verified the battery had a good charge and that terminals were clean, connections were tight.
-checked the fuses in the passenger side kick panel, none were blown
-Determined there was power to the primary Pos wire going to the starter , but no power being sent to the smaller wire that goes to solenoid at the starter.
-Hooked a jumper wire to the starter solenoid and engine did crank (so starter is good and battery is making good connection)
This is why I'm thinking its the ignition switch.
1) Where is the ignition switch located?
2)How can I test the ignition switch?
3)Could it be the "cylinder lock and keys" that is faulty?
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I have a 90 gts celica, which the motor went in it, so i put a 93 5sfe into it. I took the old distributor out of the 90 5sfe and put it into the new motor. I wasn't getting any spark. So i replaced the distributor with a known good one. No spark. replaced the coil and igniter, no spark still.
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Just acquired a 1990 celica gt at a steal lol and needing some troubleshooting answers. tonight was the first night we really had drove it, but my husband drove it to work which is an hour away and he noticed that when he comes to a stop the oil pressure light comes on. as soon as he starts to go again it goes off. the engine does not make any noises other than the typical 2200 lifter chatter and it does not leak oil.
We plan on doing an oil change so we are not sure if that could just be the issue or if it's something else. we had this issue with a dodge ram we had and it ended up being the oil pressure sending unit. he took the one off the car and it did need some tightening up but however when he put it back on the issue was still there.
We do not believe it's any low compression as the car cranks fine and normal with no rising of the cranking as you would get for a cylinder with low compression. we aren't really sure about the bearings because well that's not one of those things easily tested but the engine doesn't make a noise which I know at times you won't have one.
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90 GTS - Manual Transmission. 5SFE
I have a vibration that rattles the cab of the car during start up. But if you get out, lift the hood and listen, you cant hear anything. Its only in the cab where you can even tell there's something not right. The motor runs great and seems very smooth to the touch and visually.
The vibration does seem to go down as the car warms up..... Somewhat....You can hear the vibration when driving and go down through slight dips in the road. Kinda like hitting the rumble strips on the side of the hwy.When I release the clutch and under power the vibrations go away. Under deceleration the vibrations are loud.After weeks of research, both TN and the web, I have done all this so far.
Changed Plugs, wires, cap. All four engine mounts were taken out, inspected, and 3 of the 4 were replaced from a donor car. All 4 looked good anyways....
Swapped harmonic balancer/pully from a donor car.
Compression check. 196 200 200 208
Cleaned IAC valve.
Pulled off exhaust manifold and verified CAT isnt broken.
Inspected exhaust from front to back and cant find anything.
Replace timing belt, tensioner bearing and idler bearing while I was in there.
Took both fan belts off and ran car to see if maybe power steering or AC, but car still rattled even though they weren't turning.
Did head gasket while building this car up because it was leaking oil from the front return tube area.
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I recently took the engine apart and got the head resurfaced after the head got warped. New thermostat, waterpump, timing belt, serpentine belt, power steering belt, and gaskets for all sorts of stuff. After reassembling the engine everything worked fine. No strange noises. Only problem i am having now is that the cooling fan switches on really late, when the needle is 3/4 of the way towards H, sometimes even a little later. Fan is working as when i disconnect the cooling fan switch(bottom of radiator) and the fan does kick on. ECT was also replaced and nothing seems to work. I did replace the switch and the fans failed to kick on, unfortunately i got it from Autozone.This is a 1990 Celica GTS with the 5SFE 2.2L
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I have a 1990 GTS with a transplanted 1996 S5HE 2.2 motor. This summer I started getting overheating issues and I believe my water pump is dying.
Here's the symptoms; car will run nice and cool on the freeway doing 70 with the tach turning at 3.5k. As soon as I get off the freeway and RPMs drop the coolant temp will spike almost into the red. Accelerating from the stop will drop the temp but it will hover near the high end of the middle till I get back on the freeway or RPM's go back up.
It does the same thing when climbing hills or when the engine is under load. It did it bad this summer when it was hot out and I was running the AC. Bad enough that it boiled over a couple times. The radiator is brand new and just based on the symptoms I'm thinking water pump.
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I just got a 1990 toyota celica and it turns over but dont start. its getting fuel up to the motor. i got it from a friend that gave up on it and he got it from a guy that replaced the 2200 with a 2000 engine. everything looks to be connected but i dont know where to start.
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