Celica :: 1990 - No Fire / Spark Out Of Coil
Mar 9, 2012
My Celica is running great, I drove about 30 miles and the car started hesitating to run, I was in heavy traffic, I could hear rattling sounds which appeared as though they were coming from the heater. I stopped at a stop light and I could tell something was burning out. I have lots of power, car is very fast. I went to the next stop light and the car died, it started and I went to the next stop light with plenty of speed and the car died and would not start again. I tried starting the car for 3 hours, no fire from the coil.
I have no spark out of the coil. I am confident the coil is good. I have 2 coils. I went to the salvage lot and purchased an "igniter" (ignition module). I installed it on my Celica, still no fire out of the coil. I have a relay under the glove box that clicks when I crank over the engine. The engine cranks over very well for over 3 hours. I have an after market alarm. Why do I not have spark out of my coil?
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I have a 90 gts celica, which the motor went in it, so i put a 93 5sfe into it. I took the old distributor out of the 90 5sfe and put it into the new motor. I wasn't getting any spark. So i replaced the distributor with a known good one. No spark. replaced the coil and igniter, no spark still.
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Ii have a '98 sc2 and its been sitting in my yard for a while. It started out one day when i got in it, turned the key and then it turned over but wasn't starting. We hooked it to a computer and it showed no bad signal so we bought a new computer for my car and that didn't work either. We changed the coil packs and the crank sensor and still nothing.
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My 93 honda accord cranks but wont start it has fuel and fire from the coil but not to the plugs, had new distbuter 1 year ago could my computer be bad...
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Here we go again. shut my 87 F150 5.0 off when I got to work when it was time to leave no spark from the coil, same as 3 weeks ago. First thing I did was pull the new dist and replace it nothing, so I pulled out the new coil still nothing, its getting power to the coil so I would assume the relay is good .
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Going down interstate running fine. Then just died, changed timing chain & gears, camshaft, crank, throttle pos. sensors, New cap & rotor,new gear on bottom of distributor, new coil and module, everything but the knock sensor and computer. Still no fire, Plug wires are good.
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I have a 1991 Volvo 940 SE with turbo and 162,000 miles
The problem is there is no spark coming from the ignition coil. There is power going to the ignition coil but no spark. The car turns over but doesn't start.
I have replaced the crankshaft sensor and the Ignition Module. The wire that goes from the ignition module to the Ignition Coil has been replaced with a new wire that goes directly from the module to the coil .
Also the coil has been checked and its operating within parameters.
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'91 Nissan NX 1600.It does not start., No spark from the coil which I've tried replacing, and the wiring tests fine everywhere before that. It's been sitting like this for going on two years, I think.
Background : Right before this started happening I replaced the clutch disk and flywheel, as well as complete timing, sprockets, guides, even the cover. About a week after that the fuel pump stopped, after I replaced that I hear it prime, but now I have the no spark problem.
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'91 Nissan NX 1600.It does not start., No spark from the coil which I've tried replacing, and the wiring tests fine everywhere before that. It's been sitting like this for going on two years, I think. Background:Right before this started happening I replaced the clutch disk and flywheel, as well as complete timing, sprockets, guides, even the cover. About a week after that the fuel pump stopped, after I replaced that I hear it prime, but now I have the no spark problem.
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But is it possible for the distributor to still be the problem even though the coils test ok? the shaft doesn't have any play in it, and the air gaps are within spec. I can barely get a .2mm between them. I also grabbed a couple of igniters while I was there. When I get it to run it may die when its cold and give me a code 14.
So from there I'm down to testing the distributor circuit, and the starter signal circuit, and the ECU. What is the best way to go about testing this to be Certain of what I need to go buy instead of just replacing stuff.
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The inside of the block leading down to the spark plug (where the coil pack was) also had rust in it. I haven't pulled those three spark plugs out yet. What caused the rusting?
I assume I need to replace these three coil packs, and clean off the existing spark plugs before removing them. Is that a fair assessment?
I haven't had any trouble with misfiring or stalling. The car has been running great.
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I unclipped the wire and unsure how to pull the coil pack off.
No bolts. can turn it and maybe pull, but doesn't budge and don't want to break.
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