Celica :: 1990 - Leakage From Oil Pan Drain Bolt
Jul 21, 2011
1990 Celica GT ... I will be completely replacing the transmission, and the flywheel while adding a new stage 2 clutch kit. Also replacing the shocks all around.
Okay now to the problem, I don't know exactly where or what fluid or fluids it is yet. it seems to be leaking oil from the oil pan drain bolt also it seems to be leaking coolant too from somewhere behind the oil catch pan area. I did not change the water pump when the timing belt snapped but it looks like some water corrosion on the pump itself. are these common problems and what will solve these leaks?
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Looking for ccess to a '13 Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM) that states the torque specification for the oil pan drain bolt on the 3.5L?
If the '13 FSM is similar to the '05 FSM, the torque value will appear on the diagram that shows the oil pan assembly. I believe the spec is 30 ft-lbs (with a new washer), but I want to confirm.
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I have a 1993 Isuzu Trooper. I put too much oil in the other day, about half a quart, and wanted to drain it out of the bottom. I loosened the drain plug like normal and it wouldn't come out at all, just spun in the same place. Tried retightening the plug and it wouldn't tighten either. It was tight when I started. It would get tight for a second and then get loose again, feeling like a stripped thread. Oil is leaking out from around the plug. I cannot twist the plug with my fingers, so its not super loose but it's loose enough to leak oil. Is this a easy fix for an oversized plug or will the entire oil pan have to be replaced?
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I have a 1990 legacy and just replaced the water pump gasket and now it is leaking out of an upper bolt head on the pump and how to cure this....
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So i noticed i am leaking oil, not much but enought that i will have to top it up before the next oil change. The drip comes from the drain bolt, and drips off the bottom of the oil pan right under it. I have replaced the bolt and it still continues to leak. What could be the cause of this?
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Fiancee's 04.5 GLI is leaking from the sunroof drain into the front passenger footwell.
The Tubes are clear, but the front passenger drain is leaking from the upper portion of the tube. I pour water down the drain and 90-95% comes out the door nipple. The other 5-10% comes down the Pillar, and then out the bottom of the glove box.
I know its coming out of the top of the drain, not the nipple at the door because I can visually see water drops inside of the pillar.
What if I make a small plug to close off the 1 corner of the drain? I understand the correct solution is to pull the headliner and reconnect it.
BUT with the holidays and chaos of this week, would a temporary solution be to close off the 1 hole? I'd do a small delrin or aluminum plug with an oring on a lathe real quic so its a water proof seal
OR if I plug it, will the water level rise too fast inside the sunroof and pour into the car? I don't know.I think the plug would be a safe solution.....
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Bought a 1988 Toyota Celica GT Convertible. I am losing coolant. So far I have done the following: used a leak down pressure tester that shows I have a leak; looked under car for leak and didn't find one, put UV test fluid in radiator, doesn't show any external leaks and doesn't detect any coolant in exhaust; there is not coolant dripping from the heater (passenger side floor); the car does not overheat - the temp gauge shows it in the middle; the car runs great; just had emissions tested and passed with flying colors.
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I seem to be having a leak occuring from somewhere within the engine compartment, as I see beads of water dripping into the driver side and passenger side carpets. It only occurs when I turn the fan/A/C on.
This is leading me to believe that the evaporator drain is clogged, the only issue is: Where is it exactly located? I'm looking near the passenger side firewall within the engine compartment for a small black rubber hose, but I can't seem to find it. Is it further down underneath the firewall?
To add insult to injury, the VSA, traction control and check engine light both turned on today. I'm not sure if this is the result of persistent water leaking and causing something to short (I don't really know how water has been leaking for) but what could've caused that?
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how long should the bolts be that mount the distributor to the (non-california) 5sfe? I'm putting my car back together (finally) and the only bolts from my pile that fit are one that is too long, and two that are only a couple threads longer than the width of the distributor flange. simplest conclusion is that the latter are the bolts that were there, but does that seem right?
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How common is it for the hpop to leak from the round piece behind the pump next to the drain bolt? Its on a 2000 f350 7.3.
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I have a 90 gts celica, which the motor went in it, so i put a 93 5sfe into it. I took the old distributor out of the 90 5sfe and put it into the new motor. I wasn't getting any spark. So i replaced the distributor with a known good one. No spark. replaced the coil and igniter, no spark still.
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Just acquired a 1990 celica gt at a steal lol and needing some troubleshooting answers. tonight was the first night we really had drove it, but my husband drove it to work which is an hour away and he noticed that when he comes to a stop the oil pressure light comes on. as soon as he starts to go again it goes off. the engine does not make any noises other than the typical 2200 lifter chatter and it does not leak oil.
We plan on doing an oil change so we are not sure if that could just be the issue or if it's something else. we had this issue with a dodge ram we had and it ended up being the oil pressure sending unit. he took the one off the car and it did need some tightening up but however when he put it back on the issue was still there.
We do not believe it's any low compression as the car cranks fine and normal with no rising of the cranking as you would get for a cylinder with low compression. we aren't really sure about the bearings because well that's not one of those things easily tested but the engine doesn't make a noise which I know at times you won't have one.
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90 GTS - Manual Transmission. 5SFE
I have a vibration that rattles the cab of the car during start up. But if you get out, lift the hood and listen, you cant hear anything. Its only in the cab where you can even tell there's something not right. The motor runs great and seems very smooth to the touch and visually.
The vibration does seem to go down as the car warms up..... Somewhat....You can hear the vibration when driving and go down through slight dips in the road. Kinda like hitting the rumble strips on the side of the hwy.When I release the clutch and under power the vibrations go away. Under deceleration the vibrations are loud.After weeks of research, both TN and the web, I have done all this so far.
Changed Plugs, wires, cap. All four engine mounts were taken out, inspected, and 3 of the 4 were replaced from a donor car. All 4 looked good anyways....
Swapped harmonic balancer/pully from a donor car.
Compression check. 196 200 200 208
Cleaned IAC valve.
Pulled off exhaust manifold and verified CAT isnt broken.
Inspected exhaust from front to back and cant find anything.
Replace timing belt, tensioner bearing and idler bearing while I was in there.
Took both fan belts off and ran car to see if maybe power steering or AC, but car still rattled even though they weren't turning.
Did head gasket while building this car up because it was leaking oil from the front return tube area.
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I bought the car a month ago and went to pick it up today and there was 3 inches of water in the left front and rear footwells. I drained the water from there but can still hear it sloshing around in the quarters. Probably the drain holes are clogged. Where are they and how do I get to them? Do the rocker moldings have to be removed?
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Where is the coolant drain plug on the engine block? Have the haynes book and still can't figure it out.
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I recently took the engine apart and got the head resurfaced after the head got warped. New thermostat, waterpump, timing belt, serpentine belt, power steering belt, and gaskets for all sorts of stuff. After reassembling the engine everything worked fine. No strange noises. Only problem i am having now is that the cooling fan switches on really late, when the needle is 3/4 of the way towards H, sometimes even a little later. Fan is working as when i disconnect the cooling fan switch(bottom of radiator) and the fan does kick on. ECT was also replaced and nothing seems to work. I did replace the switch and the fans failed to kick on, unfortunately i got it from Autozone.This is a 1990 Celica GTS with the 5SFE 2.2L
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I have a 1990 GTS with a transplanted 1996 S5HE 2.2 motor. This summer I started getting overheating issues and I believe my water pump is dying.
Here's the symptoms; car will run nice and cool on the freeway doing 70 with the tach turning at 3.5k. As soon as I get off the freeway and RPMs drop the coolant temp will spike almost into the red. Accelerating from the stop will drop the temp but it will hover near the high end of the middle till I get back on the freeway or RPM's go back up.
It does the same thing when climbing hills or when the engine is under load. It did it bad this summer when it was hot out and I was running the AC. Bad enough that it boiled over a couple times. The radiator is brand new and just based on the symptoms I'm thinking water pump.
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When I put my key in the ignition, I cannot turn the key. I tried putting a small amount of WD40 in the ignition and turning the wheel back and forth while trying to start, but all that did was make my key greasy and my wheel lock up. I've tried getting a new key made from Lowes and Home Depot, but their keys are too wide and will not fit in the keyholes. The only thing I am down to is replacing the ignition switch completely but I'd rather do that as a last resort because my car has had a big problem every week (alternator gone, new wheels, new master cylinder, new rotors/brakes). I haven't explored yet? And also, if it comes down to replacing the ignition switch, how would I do that without being able to turn the key?
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I just got a 1990 toyota celica and it turns over but dont start. its getting fuel up to the motor. i got it from a friend that gave up on it and he got it from a guy that replaced the 2200 with a 2000 engine. everything looks to be connected but i dont know where to start.
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A little background on how I got into this situation. Bought a '90 Celica GT for $300, was told it had a blown head gasket. It started and sounded nice, if a little ruff. Upon driving, it would stutter (like a misfire) till 3k rpm's, then that would go away and she purred like a kitten. Ok I thought I can make this girl into a woman. I start my teardown and what I found was: front 5 head bolts were not torqued down, and the only place on the old gasket that looked like blowby was on cylinder 3 towards the front on the engine. I think to myself it was loose headbolts, bang I send the head in to get cleaned, buy the gasket kit and go about cleaning the various other parts.
I was cleaning the blocks mating suface, and discovered a small surface crack. It goes from one water jacket port to the headbolt hole and to the other water jacket port.
The headbolt hole shown is the 4th(from timing belt) on the back of the block. The loose headbolts were on the front.
The crack does NOT go down the side of the bolt hole, or the water jacket ports. I am just really afraid this means a new block. The parts I can return if all else fails, but Im down the tube on the money spent on the car and head cleaning.
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My Celica is running great, I drove about 30 miles and the car started hesitating to run, I was in heavy traffic, I could hear rattling sounds which appeared as though they were coming from the heater. I stopped at a stop light and I could tell something was burning out. I have lots of power, car is very fast. I went to the next stop light and the car died, it started and I went to the next stop light with plenty of speed and the car died and would not start again. I tried starting the car for 3 hours, no fire from the coil.
I have no spark out of the coil. I am confident the coil is good. I have 2 coils. I went to the salvage lot and purchased an "igniter" (ignition module). I installed it on my Celica, still no fire out of the coil. I have a relay under the glove box that clicks when I crank over the engine. The engine cranks over very well for over 3 hours. I have an after market alarm. Why do I not have spark out of my coil?
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