Celica :: 1990 GTS - Fans Failed To Kick On
Mar 6, 2014
I recently took the engine apart and got the head resurfaced after the head got warped. New thermostat, waterpump, timing belt, serpentine belt, power steering belt, and gaskets for all sorts of stuff. After reassembling the engine everything worked fine. No strange noises. Only problem i am having now is that the cooling fan switches on really late, when the needle is 3/4 of the way towards H, sometimes even a little later. Fan is working as when i disconnect the cooling fan switch(bottom of radiator) and the fan does kick on. ECT was also replaced and nothing seems to work. I did replace the switch and the fans failed to kick on, unfortunately i got it from Autozone.This is a 1990 Celica GTS with the 5SFE 2.2L
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My Camry seems to be overheating. When I'm driving the gauge maintains and reads 6/10, when the engine is idling, it goes upto 8/10, radiator fans kick in and then temperature goes down to 6/10 and keeps cycling over a period of 5 mins.
It's got 100K miles, water pump has not been replaced yet.
I checked the hose temperature; top hose 210 F, bottom hose 192, fans kick in when top hose is around 215 F.
I checked the engine temperature where the sender is installed and it was reading 205 F. Coolant level is OK. I burped the system. Previous owner told me, he had thermostat replaced by dealer.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The temperature gauge in the car moves toward the "danger zone" only under both the following conditions:
1) Car is at IDLE after being driven for a while (15-20 minutes). 2) Headlights are ON (I've sat in the car and watched the temperature gauge move up and then back down as I turn on and thrn turn off the headlights).
*What I've also noticed is that the temperature gauge starts moving up as the radiator fans kick ON.
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I drive a 1990 240 with close to 300,000 miles on it. Haven’t had any troubles with it in the 1-2 years I’ve had it.
Recently went in to get my smog checked and failed two of the three tests: the functional and emissions. I've attached the VIR.
Mechanic said there might be a leak, so a buddy of mine checked the engine for a vacuum leak but couldn’t find anything.
What are the common sources for a failed smog check? I plan on getting a diagnostic later in the week/
smogcheckVIR.png ( 1.93MB )
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Both engine cooling fans on my 1986 Camry are running all the time; even when the engine is cold.
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My 1993 Celica, 1.6, 5-speed manual left drive shaft failed and I am trying to replace it myself. I have the new part in hand, but for some reason, the inner splined shaft does not want to go all the way into the transaxle. I have tapped the rotor end of the shaft with a mallet and tried to force it in, but everything Ive tried wont work.
My car is down for the count until I can get this drive shaft back in.
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I have a 90 gts celica, which the motor went in it, so i put a 93 5sfe into it. I took the old distributor out of the 90 5sfe and put it into the new motor. I wasn't getting any spark. So i replaced the distributor with a known good one. No spark. replaced the coil and igniter, no spark still.
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Just acquired a 1990 celica gt at a steal lol and needing some troubleshooting answers. tonight was the first night we really had drove it, but my husband drove it to work which is an hour away and he noticed that when he comes to a stop the oil pressure light comes on. as soon as he starts to go again it goes off. the engine does not make any noises other than the typical 2200 lifter chatter and it does not leak oil.
We plan on doing an oil change so we are not sure if that could just be the issue or if it's something else. we had this issue with a dodge ram we had and it ended up being the oil pressure sending unit. he took the one off the car and it did need some tightening up but however when he put it back on the issue was still there.
We do not believe it's any low compression as the car cranks fine and normal with no rising of the cranking as you would get for a cylinder with low compression. we aren't really sure about the bearings because well that's not one of those things easily tested but the engine doesn't make a noise which I know at times you won't have one.
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90 GTS - Manual Transmission. 5SFE
I have a vibration that rattles the cab of the car during start up. But if you get out, lift the hood and listen, you cant hear anything. Its only in the cab where you can even tell there's something not right. The motor runs great and seems very smooth to the touch and visually.
The vibration does seem to go down as the car warms up..... Somewhat....You can hear the vibration when driving and go down through slight dips in the road. Kinda like hitting the rumble strips on the side of the hwy.When I release the clutch and under power the vibrations go away. Under deceleration the vibrations are loud.After weeks of research, both TN and the web, I have done all this so far.
Changed Plugs, wires, cap. All four engine mounts were taken out, inspected, and 3 of the 4 were replaced from a donor car. All 4 looked good anyways....
Swapped harmonic balancer/pully from a donor car.
Compression check. 196 200 200 208
Cleaned IAC valve.
Pulled off exhaust manifold and verified CAT isnt broken.
Inspected exhaust from front to back and cant find anything.
Replace timing belt, tensioner bearing and idler bearing while I was in there.
Took both fan belts off and ran car to see if maybe power steering or AC, but car still rattled even though they weren't turning.
Did head gasket while building this car up because it was leaking oil from the front return tube area.
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I have a 1990 GTS with a transplanted 1996 S5HE 2.2 motor. This summer I started getting overheating issues and I believe my water pump is dying.
Here's the symptoms; car will run nice and cool on the freeway doing 70 with the tach turning at 3.5k. As soon as I get off the freeway and RPMs drop the coolant temp will spike almost into the red. Accelerating from the stop will drop the temp but it will hover near the high end of the middle till I get back on the freeway or RPM's go back up.
It does the same thing when climbing hills or when the engine is under load. It did it bad this summer when it was hot out and I was running the AC. Bad enough that it boiled over a couple times. The radiator is brand new and just based on the symptoms I'm thinking water pump.
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When I put my key in the ignition, I cannot turn the key. I tried putting a small amount of WD40 in the ignition and turning the wheel back and forth while trying to start, but all that did was make my key greasy and my wheel lock up. I've tried getting a new key made from Lowes and Home Depot, but their keys are too wide and will not fit in the keyholes. The only thing I am down to is replacing the ignition switch completely but I'd rather do that as a last resort because my car has had a big problem every week (alternator gone, new wheels, new master cylinder, new rotors/brakes). I haven't explored yet? And also, if it comes down to replacing the ignition switch, how would I do that without being able to turn the key?
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I just got a 1990 toyota celica and it turns over but dont start. its getting fuel up to the motor. i got it from a friend that gave up on it and he got it from a guy that replaced the 2200 with a 2000 engine. everything looks to be connected but i dont know where to start.
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A little background on how I got into this situation. Bought a '90 Celica GT for $300, was told it had a blown head gasket. It started and sounded nice, if a little ruff. Upon driving, it would stutter (like a misfire) till 3k rpm's, then that would go away and she purred like a kitten. Ok I thought I can make this girl into a woman. I start my teardown and what I found was: front 5 head bolts were not torqued down, and the only place on the old gasket that looked like blowby was on cylinder 3 towards the front on the engine. I think to myself it was loose headbolts, bang I send the head in to get cleaned, buy the gasket kit and go about cleaning the various other parts.
I was cleaning the blocks mating suface, and discovered a small surface crack. It goes from one water jacket port to the headbolt hole and to the other water jacket port.
The headbolt hole shown is the 4th(from timing belt) on the back of the block. The loose headbolts were on the front.
The crack does NOT go down the side of the bolt hole, or the water jacket ports. I am just really afraid this means a new block. The parts I can return if all else fails, but Im down the tube on the money spent on the car and head cleaning.
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1990 Celica GT ... I will be completely replacing the transmission, and the flywheel while adding a new stage 2 clutch kit. Also replacing the shocks all around.
Okay now to the problem, I don't know exactly where or what fluid or fluids it is yet. it seems to be leaking oil from the oil pan drain bolt also it seems to be leaking coolant too from somewhere behind the oil catch pan area. I did not change the water pump when the timing belt snapped but it looks like some water corrosion on the pump itself. are these common problems and what will solve these leaks?
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My Celica is running great, I drove about 30 miles and the car started hesitating to run, I was in heavy traffic, I could hear rattling sounds which appeared as though they were coming from the heater. I stopped at a stop light and I could tell something was burning out. I have lots of power, car is very fast. I went to the next stop light and the car died, it started and I went to the next stop light with plenty of speed and the car died and would not start again. I tried starting the car for 3 hours, no fire from the coil.
I have no spark out of the coil. I am confident the coil is good. I have 2 coils. I went to the salvage lot and purchased an "igniter" (ignition module). I installed it on my Celica, still no fire out of the coil. I have a relay under the glove box that clicks when I crank over the engine. The engine cranks over very well for over 3 hours. I have an after market alarm. Why do I not have spark out of my coil?
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica, and I've been having trouble with it not starting after driving. There are no symptoms when the car is running, aside from a very slight rough idle. The car starts fine after sitting for 3-4 hours, but for short trips where it's off for under 1-2 hours, it cranks but will not start. The cranking also seems weak unless I floor the gas while trying to start, and sometimes it will eventually start if I hold the gas while cranking. It always starts at the beginning of the day.
This leads me to believe I'm dealing with a flooded engine, but I'm not sure how to diagnose why. I thought it might be leaky fuel injectors, but wouldn't that cause symptoms when running?
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I have a 90 celica. I start it up and it idles fast until it warms up. then it runs great until i turn it off. then it will not restart! i went to the gas pump. it would not start after i pumped gas. it turns over but wont start. the next day it starts up fine. it does this all of the time. when it wont start there is no spark coming from the coil except when you let up on the keyl it sparks once.
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I have a 90 celica gts. when it drove, it would violently shudder taking off in first gear. the front motor mount was shot so i was hoping that was the problem. well right after i fixed it, the starter went so i had to compression start it, and the shuddering was still there, and i was about to shift to second when it revved up popped outta gear and didn't go anywhere. it wouldn't go into any gear.
I can go through all the gears without the clutch in. the guy i got the car from said the clutch was new. now i'm not sure if hes just lying or if the guy who put it in didn't know what he was doing. could this be a bad throughout bearing? or the trans? if its the trans i'm scrapping it, also the shiftier is REALLY loose. and before the clutch went it would make weird whirring noises in 1st.
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1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
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Installed a "new" battery in my celica (it was used but tested good) went to start up the car to see if it was good and the car started right up
Shut the car off cleaned up my throttle body a bit the went to start the car again it it would just crank and crank
I just put in a new fuel pump, so that cant be it, I have not checked for spark yet ( car is stuck at work )
I heard that the ignition coil likes to fail on these would that be causing this problem?
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I just replaced my clutch and now my speedo is not working ? It did work for about a day after the job, but now it just reads 0 all the time... would low fluid cause that ?? I put two quarts in after putting the trans back ....
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