Celica :: 1990 2.2L - Car Occasionally Stalls After It Is Warm And Won't Restart
Jul 10, 2011
1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica that won't seem to start after I've driven it awhile. After sitting, it takes around 4 or 5 hours for it to start again (although this is highly variable). The first start of the day is always normal. Recently it will stall at idle, then have trouble starting up. The engine seems to "try harder" to start if I press the gas.
The weird thing is that I was able to start it up easily today by popping the clutch. This has been a problem I've been struggling with for a few months, and over that time I have replaced the starter, battery, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, and EFI/Main Engine relays. It always cranks, just no start.
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My 1990 Jeep Cherokee (automatic trans) will occasionally stall. The engine stops turning, the tachy goes to 0, no power steering, no power brakes. After I come to a stop I can always start it right back up. The previous owner suspected it was the ignition switch because the vehicle was stolen multiple times, column broken, etc. but I took the switch out and everything seems good and tight there. I tested the switch, not connected to the lock and I couldn't get it to duplicate the problem. It locks cleanly into each position. Start position has strong spring. I tested all the positions with the ohmeter. I drove around with the switch disconnected from the lock and wiggled it as I drove and I couldn't get it to stall. Sometimes I can go days without a problem and other times it will do it three times in a mile long drive.
I've searched the Internet for an answer but all the other posts about stalling the owners have trouble restarting their vehicle. Mine has never failed to restart after stalling. When it stalls it is a sudden loss of engine, no coughing or sputtering. The tachy drops to zero along with oil pressure, etc but the radio, lights, etc stays on. If I wiggle the key in the ignition I can't get it to start back up even if I'm coasting along at 40 mph. I have to turn the key back to the start position.
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I have a 90 celica. I start it up and it idles fast until it warms up. then it runs great until i turn it off. then it will not restart! i went to the gas pump. it would not start after i pumped gas. it turns over but wont start. the next day it starts up fine. it does this all of the time. when it wont start there is no spark coming from the coil except when you let up on the keyl it sparks once.
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1990 Maxima. The car hesitates/surges occassionally after warm start, but only surges for about first 1/4 mile, then its OK. Sometimes it idles low, especially when I come to a stop and apply brakes hard. I believe the two issues are related. This has been getting progressively worse over past few years.
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My 6.0 stalls when its warm and it restarts no problem. no codes are given with scan gauge. No changes on icp or ipr when it happens. At idle icp ranges 577 to 737, fmp 47.5 to 48v, ipr 23 to 28, map 14.9, tfc .32. all at idle. all increase when rpm goes up. ive done the d plugs, sct plug ficm replaced 2 yrs ago. done egr delete, need to trouble shoot? Again no codes given...
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I have a 1990 buick lesabre motor is a 3800 and it runs fine until the motor warms up and then when i shut it off it won't restart for about an hour after i shut it off. It's not over heating it has a new fuel pump.
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I have a 90 gts celica, which the motor went in it, so i put a 93 5sfe into it. I took the old distributor out of the 90 5sfe and put it into the new motor. I wasn't getting any spark. So i replaced the distributor with a known good one. No spark. replaced the coil and igniter, no spark still.
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My 1990 Toyota Corolla which I hate to retire has only 64,000 miles on it. Starts and runs but while I am driving the dash lights up and the engine shuts off and won't restart. He thinks it is the NEC (?) switch but he said he is not really sure. Spending all that money and then finding out it is not fixed would not be worth it. It also is dangerous what if I am on the expressway?
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Just acquired a 1990 celica gt at a steal lol and needing some troubleshooting answers. tonight was the first night we really had drove it, but my husband drove it to work which is an hour away and he noticed that when he comes to a stop the oil pressure light comes on. as soon as he starts to go again it goes off. the engine does not make any noises other than the typical 2200 lifter chatter and it does not leak oil.
We plan on doing an oil change so we are not sure if that could just be the issue or if it's something else. we had this issue with a dodge ram we had and it ended up being the oil pressure sending unit. he took the one off the car and it did need some tightening up but however when he put it back on the issue was still there.
We do not believe it's any low compression as the car cranks fine and normal with no rising of the cranking as you would get for a cylinder with low compression. we aren't really sure about the bearings because well that's not one of those things easily tested but the engine doesn't make a noise which I know at times you won't have one.
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90 GTS - Manual Transmission. 5SFE
I have a vibration that rattles the cab of the car during start up. But if you get out, lift the hood and listen, you cant hear anything. Its only in the cab where you can even tell there's something not right. The motor runs great and seems very smooth to the touch and visually.
The vibration does seem to go down as the car warms up..... Somewhat....You can hear the vibration when driving and go down through slight dips in the road. Kinda like hitting the rumble strips on the side of the hwy.When I release the clutch and under power the vibrations go away. Under deceleration the vibrations are loud.After weeks of research, both TN and the web, I have done all this so far.
Changed Plugs, wires, cap. All four engine mounts were taken out, inspected, and 3 of the 4 were replaced from a donor car. All 4 looked good anyways....
Swapped harmonic balancer/pully from a donor car.
Compression check. 196 200 200 208
Cleaned IAC valve.
Pulled off exhaust manifold and verified CAT isnt broken.
Inspected exhaust from front to back and cant find anything.
Replace timing belt, tensioner bearing and idler bearing while I was in there.
Took both fan belts off and ran car to see if maybe power steering or AC, but car still rattled even though they weren't turning.
Did head gasket while building this car up because it was leaking oil from the front return tube area.
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A friend has a '90 olds Ciera with the 3800 engine. The engine will quit running at a stoplight or almost any idle speed and then will be hard to start. May have to wait a few minutes before it restarts.
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I recently took the engine apart and got the head resurfaced after the head got warped. New thermostat, waterpump, timing belt, serpentine belt, power steering belt, and gaskets for all sorts of stuff. After reassembling the engine everything worked fine. No strange noises. Only problem i am having now is that the cooling fan switches on really late, when the needle is 3/4 of the way towards H, sometimes even a little later. Fan is working as when i disconnect the cooling fan switch(bottom of radiator) and the fan does kick on. ECT was also replaced and nothing seems to work. I did replace the switch and the fans failed to kick on, unfortunately i got it from Autozone.This is a 1990 Celica GTS with the 5SFE 2.2L
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I have a 1990 GTS with a transplanted 1996 S5HE 2.2 motor. This summer I started getting overheating issues and I believe my water pump is dying.
Here's the symptoms; car will run nice and cool on the freeway doing 70 with the tach turning at 3.5k. As soon as I get off the freeway and RPMs drop the coolant temp will spike almost into the red. Accelerating from the stop will drop the temp but it will hover near the high end of the middle till I get back on the freeway or RPM's go back up.
It does the same thing when climbing hills or when the engine is under load. It did it bad this summer when it was hot out and I was running the AC. Bad enough that it boiled over a couple times. The radiator is brand new and just based on the symptoms I'm thinking water pump.
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When I put my key in the ignition, I cannot turn the key. I tried putting a small amount of WD40 in the ignition and turning the wheel back and forth while trying to start, but all that did was make my key greasy and my wheel lock up. I've tried getting a new key made from Lowes and Home Depot, but their keys are too wide and will not fit in the keyholes. The only thing I am down to is replacing the ignition switch completely but I'd rather do that as a last resort because my car has had a big problem every week (alternator gone, new wheels, new master cylinder, new rotors/brakes). I haven't explored yet? And also, if it comes down to replacing the ignition switch, how would I do that without being able to turn the key?
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I just got a 1990 toyota celica and it turns over but dont start. its getting fuel up to the motor. i got it from a friend that gave up on it and he got it from a guy that replaced the 2200 with a 2000 engine. everything looks to be connected but i dont know where to start.
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A little background on how I got into this situation. Bought a '90 Celica GT for $300, was told it had a blown head gasket. It started and sounded nice, if a little ruff. Upon driving, it would stutter (like a misfire) till 3k rpm's, then that would go away and she purred like a kitten. Ok I thought I can make this girl into a woman. I start my teardown and what I found was: front 5 head bolts were not torqued down, and the only place on the old gasket that looked like blowby was on cylinder 3 towards the front on the engine. I think to myself it was loose headbolts, bang I send the head in to get cleaned, buy the gasket kit and go about cleaning the various other parts.
I was cleaning the blocks mating suface, and discovered a small surface crack. It goes from one water jacket port to the headbolt hole and to the other water jacket port.
The headbolt hole shown is the 4th(from timing belt) on the back of the block. The loose headbolts were on the front.
The crack does NOT go down the side of the bolt hole, or the water jacket ports. I am just really afraid this means a new block. The parts I can return if all else fails, but Im down the tube on the money spent on the car and head cleaning.
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1990 Celica GT ... I will be completely replacing the transmission, and the flywheel while adding a new stage 2 clutch kit. Also replacing the shocks all around.
Okay now to the problem, I don't know exactly where or what fluid or fluids it is yet. it seems to be leaking oil from the oil pan drain bolt also it seems to be leaking coolant too from somewhere behind the oil catch pan area. I did not change the water pump when the timing belt snapped but it looks like some water corrosion on the pump itself. are these common problems and what will solve these leaks?
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My Celica is running great, I drove about 30 miles and the car started hesitating to run, I was in heavy traffic, I could hear rattling sounds which appeared as though they were coming from the heater. I stopped at a stop light and I could tell something was burning out. I have lots of power, car is very fast. I went to the next stop light and the car died, it started and I went to the next stop light with plenty of speed and the car died and would not start again. I tried starting the car for 3 hours, no fire from the coil.
I have no spark out of the coil. I am confident the coil is good. I have 2 coils. I went to the salvage lot and purchased an "igniter" (ignition module). I installed it on my Celica, still no fire out of the coil. I have a relay under the glove box that clicks when I crank over the engine. The engine cranks over very well for over 3 hours. I have an after market alarm. Why do I not have spark out of my coil?
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica, and I've been having trouble with it not starting after driving. There are no symptoms when the car is running, aside from a very slight rough idle. The car starts fine after sitting for 3-4 hours, but for short trips where it's off for under 1-2 hours, it cranks but will not start. The cranking also seems weak unless I floor the gas while trying to start, and sometimes it will eventually start if I hold the gas while cranking. It always starts at the beginning of the day.
This leads me to believe I'm dealing with a flooded engine, but I'm not sure how to diagnose why. I thought it might be leaky fuel injectors, but wouldn't that cause symptoms when running?
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OK all sensors and evac valve done. No codes being pulled. No check engine light. Car starts no problem in the morning or when its been sitting but when the car has been driven to temp. I will not restart and just keeps cranking, if it starts to start it shudders and dies. I am the original owner and its had any maintenance its needed.
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