Celica :: 1989 Overheating And Push Water Out Through Overflow Bottle
Aug 22, 2004
I've got an 1989 Celica St that as it warms up it pushes water out through the overflow bottle. The car seems to be cooling ok as long as I don't get stuck in traffic. My daily commute is approximately 40 miles and if I keep refilling the radiator the car stays relatively cool. However, if I do not stop and let the car cool off between commuting to and from work the car loses enough coolant that eventually it starts to overheat and I need to pull over and refill the radiator once again. I have replaced the radiator cooling fan already and am going to flush the radiator this afternoon. I am thinking that the head gasket might be leaking and causing my problems. What to try next b4 I tear the head off? BTW the motor is a 2.0 L 16 valve. Hoping I can fix this problem w/o a head gasket.
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Doing the 48,000 km service yesterday, and when checking everything noticed the engine coolant overflow bottle was almost empty. MAJOR PROBLEM!
There is no sign of leaking, so I presume it evaporated or it was never filled to the full mark from the factory. Man, that level is hard to check. It's dark down there! I may mark the passenger side end of the overflow bottle. Much easier to see the level there.
Coolant loss, presumably from evaporation? This was after 3 years of operation/48,000 km or 30,000 mi.
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Ok, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
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My brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
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The twin bottle holder sump in the trunk of my 2003 Camry takes on a few inches of water after driving through heavy rains. All other parts of the trunk, carpet, spare tire well, etc., always remain bone dry and I cannot figure out where the water is coming in. There is no sign of water coming in through the lid seal and the seal itself is unbroken and pliable. There is the seal mark uniformly minted across the sealing surface of the trunk lid.
There is something of a gap in the body right in front of the sump if you peel back the floor covering, but I can't see light through it. The sump itself, when it's dry, shows no signs of cracks or leakage. I do not actually store water or any other liquids in the sump. Actually, because it takes on water, I don't store anything in the sump. It seems easy enough to replace the bottle sump, but I'm a little reluctant to do so until I can figure out exactly where it's coming from.
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My 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx is overheating, probably on its last legs. First time this happened the radiator overflow tank seemed low so I topped it up with glycerol and added some leak plugger to the radiator for good measure. The car drove just fine for 20-30km then it happened again. At the same time, and I don't know if this is relevant, the windscreen defroster, which should bleed warm engine air, now only gives cold.
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I have a 1998 Ford Taurus SE 6cyl 24 valve Duratec with about 135k miles on it. It has started to overheat. It has a closed system with the thermostat on the bottom passenger side. It isn't leaking coolant but it does boil when it heats up and you can hear it whistle/pop around the overflow cap. I have drained the whole system using the petcock valve and have changed out the thermostat (which because of its location requires all the fluid to be changed or you get green rain). So, new thermostat, new coolant, still overheats. The defroster air is blowing cold. It has a belt driven water pump but I haven't touched this. Both electric fans are working.
I don't see anything in the oil. It is still a nice dark color, not milky or anything. I saw no oil in the coolant I drained. When it first starts, there is a few seconds of puffs of white/gray smoke but it is very light and goes away quickly. There is no water running out the tailpipes.
My question is, what is your guess on the cause? I'm at the point with the car, with its age and miles that I'm not willing to dump a lot of extra $$ into it -- so there will be no head gasket change -- but don't want to junk it if its something simple. I do most of my own work on my cars. How can I diagnose it further? Should I just change the water pump and if that doesn't work then what?
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Just finished a timing belt job on my 93 celica 5sfe. Filled the coolant up and burped engine. All seems to be well. My question is related to the coolant overflow tank. The cap has a hose attached on one end coming from the radiator and another coming out the other side that is short and L shaped. The L shaped hose isn't attached to anything and is open allowing air to either vent out or vent in to the overflow tank. There isn't any place nearby where the hose might attach to. Is this hose supposed to be "unattached" as it is now or should it be closed to create vacuum for the overflow tank to allow coolant back in to the radiator?
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I know my car has a leak. Blok check test confirmed. Symptoms:
Car overheats after driving for awhile but only intermittently
Overflow is filled almost to top after driving and has wet sides.
Coolant fails to return to engine.
Here is the interesting part. I removed the lid for over flow and took out the hose and exposed it to air. Then I took off rad cap. Instant suction and collapse of both lower and upper hoses. Why did this occur? Bad rad cap and or/ blockage?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Corolla that my kids drive, it has 171k miles. Recently it began overheating and blowing coolant out of the overflow causing it to appear it is leaking due to having to keep adding coolant. The car does not overheat every time but is pretty consistent on overheating. When overheating, the heater starts to blow cold air but if not overheating it blows hot air as normal.
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2001 Jeep Cherokee sport ... Just bought this Jeep with 145K miles. Had radiator and all hoses replaced. The overflow tank is boiling over but the engine is not overheating. Safe to drive? What should I be checking for?
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I have a 1991 celica that I can not get to start. The car has the 3sfe 2.0 in it that I think came out of an 89 celica. We have put a new starter on this car, alternator, plugs, wires and distributor cap, battery and more onto this car. The car however will push start. When you turn the key everything comes on and it clicks. Nothing else happens.
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I have an 04 gti 1.8t and last night it started over heating. I pulled over and checked the coolant and the oil but everything looked good. I let it cool down and drove it home. When I popped the hood there was a little steam coming from the coolant overflow tank but I saw no leaking. I decided to vent the pressure off the system and then I got a little drip on the passenger side close to where the inter cooler is. I can't pinpoint the leak though.
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I bought an 89 celica gt back in december of last 2010. and my motor mounts recently went out on me and i was wonder how difficult it would be and exactly how many motor mounts does my car have? I am fairly new to car repair.
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Wife found and purchased a 1989 Celica GT...everything is mechanically sound...except that when we took the car into service place to get a/c service done, they charged the system and said that it is fine...(was a few ounces low on freon), but that our condenser fan doesn't seem to kick on when the a/c button is activated on the dash We have the "Push Button" style Automatic a/c. Manual trans, 3sfe 2.0 liter. I have checked voltage at the condenser fan...it is present....jumpered the ground wire to a ground and the fan runs...I swapped the relay out with the regular engine fan relay, which seems to work fine....no good, so I don't think it is a relay issue.
The compressor seems to kick in and work, cycling on and off as usual. Get nice cold air as long as car is moving above 30 mph. I have the tools, no real fear of taking stuff apart, but even though I have a schematic of the a/c system...I find it confusing and daunting. My service place mentioned either the a/c controller or the a/c amplifier may be the culprit. He also mentioned that those parts are no longer available from Toyota.....said there was a way around it to get the condenser fan to fire when the button is pushed on....but wanted $300 for the "no more than 30 minutes to do the wiring". He seemed rather "sharkish" to me....like instead of charging for time, he put a "what's it worth to you to have a/c" hijack price on it.
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I have a 1989 celica gts. I can hear the motor but my sunroof wont move..it wont open so I dont know how to get in and see what the problem is. Do I start by taking out the headliner?
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I have a 1989 toyota Celica ST with a 2.0 in it.
I have idle problems after the car has ran for about 1.5- 2 hours. It has a new cap and wires and plugs and a new intake on it and it still does it. I have it parked for winter right now because it cant get around in the ND winters so i'm just trying to get some ideas right now.
Also i pulled the cap off and there was oil in it.
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My 89 Corolla started overheating when I turn on the AC. If I don't use the AC, the temp. is fine. 2-3 min. after turning on AC, temp. gauge rises and I must turn off AC. My husband, a devout CT listener has some mechanical skills & ck'd it out. He replaced the fan relay, but that didn't fix it. History: the 1st time it happened, the AC was on and blowing cool air, suddenly, the air wasn't cool and I noticed the temp. rising and turned off the AC. I stopped and checked the radiator fluid and it was low, so filled the overflow with coolant. Drove home (30 min.) and it was fine.
A week later, same thing - I'm on the freeway, air is blowing cool, then not and heats up. Ck'd radiator - fluid level is fine. Problem was somewhat intermittent as it wasn't happening 'all the time'. Yesterday, same thing again on the way to see the dentist 40 min. out in mid-afternoon sweltering heat. Had to drive there and back with no AC - quite miserable. Replaced the thermostat not too long ago and the radiator also had to be replaced year before last. I have health issues and really can't handle the heat and fumes and must have AC in this climate. We can't afford to take it to a mechanic. If this car goes, them I'm car-less. It's a great car and keeps on going - 240,000+ miles.
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I have a 1989 Toyota Celica ST and I am having a few concerns with my engine. The engine has less than 50k miles on it, and I took it to the mechanics a week ago and was told nothing further than what I had done (tune up, oil change, change of filters) would be needed for the engine to run optimally.
Even after taking my car in, I am still experiencing a few problems.
1) Sporadic Idle - When the car is idling, the RPM shifts around. At some points, it will be so loud that it sounds as if engine parts are clanking together, and at some points it is so quiet that I wonder if my car is on.
2) Slow Start Up - Sometimes when I start my car, the engine sounds as if only 2/4 of the cylinders are running..then, after about 30 seconds, the car will turn off. This has never occurred when starting my car the first time of any day, and has never turned off while I have been in transit.
3) Problem Starting Up after putting in gas - Whenever I fill up my tank from about 1/4 full, it takes my car at least 3-4 minutes to idle smoothly.
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I have an 09 f350 lariat with the factory 6 disc, sync system. Problem is the sunroof drain tube on the right front kinked and allowed water to overflow the drip tray on the sunroof and down the "A" pillar. The water then dripped onto the inertia fuel pump switch and then onto the sync module. I disassembled the module to dry and coat the circuit board with dielectric spray but one of the transistors is corroded and therefore the module is rendered useless. I have contacted the ford dealer for replacement module but no luck, even with the original part number on the sync module, or as ford calls it " Accessory Protocol Interface Module" My question is: can I get a module from another vehicle.
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I got oil in my coolant ...the engine has no water..trany is good too...when I drive the temperature is good, but when I'm at a stop it gets hotter...when I add oil that's whence I notice...could it be a simple fix or is it the gasket? 1989, Mercedez 260E, V6, 200k plus miles.....
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