Celica :: 1989 - No A/C Condenser Fan Action?
Jul 11, 2011
Wife found and purchased a 1989 Celica GT...everything is mechanically sound...except that when we took the car into service place to get a/c service done, they charged the system and said that it is fine...(was a few ounces low on freon), but that our condenser fan doesn't seem to kick on when the a/c button is activated on the dash We have the "Push Button" style Automatic a/c. Manual trans, 3sfe 2.0 liter. I have checked voltage at the condenser fan...it is present....jumpered the ground wire to a ground and the fan runs...I swapped the relay out with the regular engine fan relay, which seems to work fine....no good, so I don't think it is a relay issue.
The compressor seems to kick in and work, cycling on and off as usual. Get nice cold air as long as car is moving above 30 mph. I have the tools, no real fear of taking stuff apart, but even though I have a schematic of the a/c system...I find it confusing and daunting. My service place mentioned either the a/c controller or the a/c amplifier may be the culprit. He also mentioned that those parts are no longer available from Toyota.....said there was a way around it to get the condenser fan to fire when the button is pushed on....but wanted $300 for the "no more than 30 minutes to do the wiring". He seemed rather "sharkish" to me....like instead of charging for time, he put a "what's it worth to you to have a/c" hijack price on it.
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I have an '89 Toyota Truck, manual V6, and my cooler condenser appears to be shot (no cold air from the a/c and the pulley wobbles). This seems to make the engine work harder, run louder and my oil pressure drops when idling. I cannot afford to fix it right now and my question is; besides the obvious personal discomfort ( I live in Austin), how long can I drive my truck before it starts damaging the engine/electrical(?)/other components linked through the serpentine belt?
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My brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
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I bought an 89 celica gt back in december of last 2010. and my motor mounts recently went out on me and i was wonder how difficult it would be and exactly how many motor mounts does my car have? I am fairly new to car repair.
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I have a 1989 celica gts. I can hear the motor but my sunroof wont move..it wont open so I dont know how to get in and see what the problem is. Do I start by taking out the headliner?
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I have a 1989 toyota Celica ST with a 2.0 in it.
I have idle problems after the car has ran for about 1.5- 2 hours. It has a new cap and wires and plugs and a new intake on it and it still does it. I have it parked for winter right now because it cant get around in the ND winters so i'm just trying to get some ideas right now.
Also i pulled the cap off and there was oil in it.
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I've got an 1989 Celica St that as it warms up it pushes water out through the overflow bottle. The car seems to be cooling ok as long as I don't get stuck in traffic. My daily commute is approximately 40 miles and if I keep refilling the radiator the car stays relatively cool. However, if I do not stop and let the car cool off between commuting to and from work the car loses enough coolant that eventually it starts to overheat and I need to pull over and refill the radiator once again. I have replaced the radiator cooling fan already and am going to flush the radiator this afternoon. I am thinking that the head gasket might be leaking and causing my problems. What to try next b4 I tear the head off? BTW the motor is a 2.0 L 16 valve. Hoping I can fix this problem w/o a head gasket.
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I have a 1989 Toyota Celica ST and I am having a few concerns with my engine. The engine has less than 50k miles on it, and I took it to the mechanics a week ago and was told nothing further than what I had done (tune up, oil change, change of filters) would be needed for the engine to run optimally.
Even after taking my car in, I am still experiencing a few problems.
1) Sporadic Idle - When the car is idling, the RPM shifts around. At some points, it will be so loud that it sounds as if engine parts are clanking together, and at some points it is so quiet that I wonder if my car is on.
2) Slow Start Up - Sometimes when I start my car, the engine sounds as if only 2/4 of the cylinders are running..then, after about 30 seconds, the car will turn off. This has never occurred when starting my car the first time of any day, and has never turned off while I have been in transit.
3) Problem Starting Up after putting in gas - Whenever I fill up my tank from about 1/4 full, it takes my car at least 3-4 minutes to idle smoothly.
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The engine is fairly hot after driving 2 miles in hot weather. Waiting a minute or longer for green light. No A/C or fan. Battery is 3/4 full (judging by number of bars). Windows fully open to cool the cabin. My foot is on the brake. The ICE suddenly starts and turns off at the same time. I had the car for near 3 years and this is the first time.
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Here's an interesting problem our B5 (2001 1.8T) has experienced recently -- When backing up and then applying the brakes there's very little effective braking occurring, sometimes to the point of the pedal traveling almost to the floor. I've recently had the brake pads and rotors checked -- all rotors are OK and the front pads are "almost new" condition. The rear pads were showing significant wear and I had those replaced, but we're still seeing the same problem.
I can also tell that braking action driving forward feels less than optimal, although not nearly as troubling as when attempting to stop in reverse. I'm suspicious of a problem with the vacuum assist unit, either a bad hose or possibly a defect in the boost unit itself. Can the VW shop definitively test the appropriate vacuum line(s) to the booster and the booster unit itself for a problem?
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I have a 2014 Accent (standard) and I have been noticing a noise when ever the GDI pump is in action. Noise was much louder in winter as if a hard plastic piece was transmitting vibration, this is very annoying. Dealer's technician confirms its from GDI but tells me its normal, I do not remember earing that noise in the car I test drove before buying. This is the only downside to my new car but a big one for me.
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Sons saturn will not go into gear after a hard braking action. The shifter will move, the car just acts like it is in nuetral, engine revs with gas, no movement in any gear or reverse. After waiting for a few minutes he can put it in gear and go as if nothing happened. I have checked the fluid, its nice pink and clear and full. He says it has happened 3 times in the past week, has driven it for over a year with no major problems. He is 17, but seems decent with a manual.
I have tried to replicate but can not the car drive good, no shifting problems on normal driving and no check engine lights.
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I have a 2010 VW GT with the 6 speed manuaI. The shift action feels longer and sloppier than the action was on the five speed from my much missed 2002 VW Passat wagon (only option the v6 engine). I'm considering a short throw shifter and would like to understand the pros and cons, and which shifter would be the best one for my car.
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I have a 2002 Accent GS. Their is fuel flow out of the fuel filter. I've changed out the spark plugs and sprayed starting fluid into the cylinders, and still will not start. So there is no electricity to the spark plugs. Replaced all of the ECU fuses in the engine compartment and under the dash, and still will not start.
Don't think it is the coil pack, because I can't imagine both coils failing at same time. Think it is a relay or sensor. Which relay or sensor would also prevent power from going to the instrument panel gauges but still allow the instrument panel warning lights? Main relay? Crankshaft position sensor? Throttle position sensor?
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I have noticed a serious bump steer or a violent jerking action when hitting a bump in the road. Just over a year ago I replaced ball joints,tie rods, sway bar links (2nd set since cutting off original). I used MOOG components. I was shocked to see the sway bar links loose once again. Is there a certain way to tighten them or is there a better product available. Mostly stock 1999 'ploder with fire wires and scremin demon coil pack.
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I own a 2003 Toyota Camry SE four cylinder sedan with only 46,000 miles. The car has four wheel disc brakes and an anti-skid braking system. About a year ago, I started to notice that there was excessive travel in the brake pedal. That is, the pedal will travel an excessive distance before there is any braking action. I have tried to correct the problem by pumping the brakes as I back out of my driveway to engage the self-adjusting mechanism; doesn't work. I have also gotten in the habit now of pumping the brake pedal; that works a little, but it's not a solution. Being an old chap who always maintained my car myself, and diagnosed and repaired most problems, I concluded that the problem was the master cylinder because when stopped at a light, the brake pedal would continue to go down. Incidentally, there has been no loss of brake fluid since I bought the car new in 2003. Recently, I had the master cylinder replaced and learned that I'm not as car-smart as I thought. There is no improvement in the pedal travel problem.
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My AC condenser was punctured at the beginning of the week. No check engine lights. I pick the car up and it had four codes. They are
P0445
P0498
P2257
P0414
Are these codes related to the AC system running without any freon or something else related. To the condenser? I know the definitions of these codes but what do they really mean?
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I believe the condenser has leaked out. IS it safe to replace or do I need to take it in to flush out any residual freon? Just want to be safe.
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My air-con has packed up and I have been quoted nearly a thousand pounds to fix it. The problem is a leak in the condenser, which needs to be replaced. I've tried to source one myself, but there is some confusion over whether or not the condenser and the coolant radiators are combined, there is a vast difference in online prices.
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So do I need a fuse or something worse ?
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I have an 05 Prius with 53k miles and the ac just recently stopped working. The blower fan still comes on, but neither the compressor nor condenser cooling fan will come on. I've checked the fuses and relays, and they check out ok. I'm hoping there may be one I missed? It just stopped working with no warning signs. What could be causing this? If the compressor was bad, the condenser fan would still work, right? I'm fearing it's the ac inverter. Do the symptoms match?
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