Celica :: 1989 Celica GT - When Pressing On Gas / Idle Drops And Then Car Dies
Jun 3, 2011
My brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
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When I turn the A/C on in my 1994 celica gt 2.2 engine the idle drops and will die,
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I bought an 89 celica gt back in december of last 2010. and my motor mounts recently went out on me and i was wonder how difficult it would be and exactly how many motor mounts does my car have? I am fairly new to car repair.
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Wife found and purchased a 1989 Celica GT...everything is mechanically sound...except that when we took the car into service place to get a/c service done, they charged the system and said that it is fine...(was a few ounces low on freon), but that our condenser fan doesn't seem to kick on when the a/c button is activated on the dash We have the "Push Button" style Automatic a/c. Manual trans, 3sfe 2.0 liter. I have checked voltage at the condenser fan...it is present....jumpered the ground wire to a ground and the fan runs...I swapped the relay out with the regular engine fan relay, which seems to work fine....no good, so I don't think it is a relay issue.
The compressor seems to kick in and work, cycling on and off as usual. Get nice cold air as long as car is moving above 30 mph. I have the tools, no real fear of taking stuff apart, but even though I have a schematic of the a/c system...I find it confusing and daunting. My service place mentioned either the a/c controller or the a/c amplifier may be the culprit. He also mentioned that those parts are no longer available from Toyota.....said there was a way around it to get the condenser fan to fire when the button is pushed on....but wanted $300 for the "no more than 30 minutes to do the wiring". He seemed rather "sharkish" to me....like instead of charging for time, he put a "what's it worth to you to have a/c" hijack price on it.
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I have a 1989 celica gts. I can hear the motor but my sunroof wont move..it wont open so I dont know how to get in and see what the problem is. Do I start by taking out the headliner?
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I have a 1989 toyota Celica ST with a 2.0 in it.
I have idle problems after the car has ran for about 1.5- 2 hours. It has a new cap and wires and plugs and a new intake on it and it still does it. I have it parked for winter right now because it cant get around in the ND winters so i'm just trying to get some ideas right now.
Also i pulled the cap off and there was oil in it.
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I've got an 1989 Celica St that as it warms up it pushes water out through the overflow bottle. The car seems to be cooling ok as long as I don't get stuck in traffic. My daily commute is approximately 40 miles and if I keep refilling the radiator the car stays relatively cool. However, if I do not stop and let the car cool off between commuting to and from work the car loses enough coolant that eventually it starts to overheat and I need to pull over and refill the radiator once again. I have replaced the radiator cooling fan already and am going to flush the radiator this afternoon. I am thinking that the head gasket might be leaking and causing my problems. What to try next b4 I tear the head off? BTW the motor is a 2.0 L 16 valve. Hoping I can fix this problem w/o a head gasket.
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I have a 1989 Toyota Celica ST and I am having a few concerns with my engine. The engine has less than 50k miles on it, and I took it to the mechanics a week ago and was told nothing further than what I had done (tune up, oil change, change of filters) would be needed for the engine to run optimally.
Even after taking my car in, I am still experiencing a few problems.
1) Sporadic Idle - When the car is idling, the RPM shifts around. At some points, it will be so loud that it sounds as if engine parts are clanking together, and at some points it is so quiet that I wonder if my car is on.
2) Slow Start Up - Sometimes when I start my car, the engine sounds as if only 2/4 of the cylinders are running..then, after about 30 seconds, the car will turn off. This has never occurred when starting my car the first time of any day, and has never turned off while I have been in transit.
3) Problem Starting Up after putting in gas - Whenever I fill up my tank from about 1/4 full, it takes my car at least 3-4 minutes to idle smoothly.
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Why my car sometime start up really bad and even stall when the RPM drops down to 0.... This usually happens on a cold start up. What I should do?
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I have 93 GT-S, AT, 2.2, 163,000 miles.
My problem is slow acceleration. As I get on the highway and give it the gas my car slowly climbs to my travel speed at 75 mph. She will climb steady at around 3000-3100 rpm. When I punch it the car revs to approx. 4000 rpm but then quickly drops back to 3000 without me letting off the gas. Almost sounds like its bogging down. Another thing I noticed while cruising at around 65 mph is that the car bucks a little but I don't hear any misfiring. Also, when I do step on the gas, the car is severely louder. Almost sounds like it's coming from under the hood. I tried parking it, opening the hood, and listened to the engine while giving her the gas but she sounds much quieter. So the louder noise seems to happen under load. Please note there is no check engine light.
Is this one issue or possibly multiple issues? Could my TPS be an issue here as well?
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I have a 2002 Celica GT.
It was driving fine for a few months after buying it and now all of a sudden it will just die while driving down the road. It will start and idle fine for hours but after about 15 minutes of driving it down the road it will just die without any kind of notification. It will start back up and run again after I let it sit for 15-20 minutes but will do it all over again but if I try starting it right after it dies, it will start and immediately die again. The only codes it is reading is the #1 spark plug is misfiring, but it has been that way since I bought the car.
I was told to clean the O2 sensor and throttle body, which I did and it ran fine for a few days but is back to dying randomly.
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I am repairing a 1992 Celica GT w/2.2 litre I4. Just replaced the TPS. Now, it will only idle. Any caressing of the accelerator, and the engine dies. Will idle smooth as glass for abt 5-10 minutes, then begin idling rough, and then die. Will not allow me to restart immediately after it dies. Must wait 10-15 minutes before restarting. When the vehicle is placed in gear, it will continue to run, but the moment the accel. is pressed, the engine dies.
I think part of it may be vacuum-related.
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I own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
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I have a 90 toyota celica st. I was driving it the other day and it died on me while driving... twice! The second time was going down a steep hill and it was freaken scary for a minute as the breaks were not working, the car started again and I was able to stop! Anyway I know enough about cars that once your car starts it should not die. Could it be the alternator? It seems to start up just fine. I did notice though that when the car died on me both times I was taking a pretty sharp right turn. And when it died every thing blinked twice then out went everything. Im sure that it is a code for something but I do not have the owners manual as I was not the original owner. I just started it up today again and it makes a weird clicking noise before I even turn the key.
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I just had the engine in my 2001 Toyota Celica replaced with a rebuild at 145,000 miles (the original engine was burning oil). It runs fine but now every time I fill the tank with gas and start the car it runs for about 15 seconds then dies. This goes on about four times then it runs fine. After the initial dying eposoide the car runs fine until i fill-up again (i usually fill-up when i have avout 1/4 tank left). Before the engine replacement I had no problem like this. The mechanic thought the problem was the fuel pump and replace it and the filter and inspected the tank for debris. I am still having the problem
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2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
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Could a bad vsv be affecting my idle speed? I'm wanting to adjust idle as per the maintenance schedule and i don't know if i should wait until after i replace what appears to be a bad VSV. Also, where on the top part of the wiring harness i can connect an ohmmeter so it runs to the VSV so I don't have to get back in that tight area?
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Recently when I start my car, it starts fine when it's cold because it will idle high until it warms up, but if I start it while it's warm the rpms drop to about 500 barely idlling and if I tap the gas a couple of times the problem goes away and it idles normally at about 700.
I recently also replaced the o-ring on the distributor because it was leaking oil. I reset the timing twice. It is hard to get an accurate reading in the dark, looking at a little timing mark 3 feet away, but I am sure it is at 10 BTDC.
New wires, new thermostat, air filter could be a little dirty, other than that, I am thinking it might be an oily sensor or something else?
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I have a 1995 celica gt at times the car was hard to start it would start idle really low then cut off this went on for about 1 month. The other day I was driving it and stopped at a light the car cut off and wouldn't restart. I originally thought it was a fuel pump so I took off the fuel line going to the fuel filter and attempted to start car fuel came out so I knew the fuel pump was working.
I then pull out 1 spark plug put it in the end of the spark plug wire and held it against the block while someelse cranked the car no spark was observed. I then marked the distributor and removed it. I looked at the rotor and it was really worn also the ignition coil had a crack on the side of it. I removed it and went to auto zone and found a replacement for $42.00 they sell two different type one for the 1.8 engine and for the 2.2 engine so know which engine type you have. I put every thing back and the car ran fine. However I would like to bring up the rpms a little they do seem low but I attempting to find out what how to do that.
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My 1992 Toyota, Celica had developed a really weird idle surge. The idle surges between 500 to 750 rpm. The surge goes away with the AC on and it idles steady at 900 Rpm. It also has a slight off idle bog that may just be another symptom of the weird idle.
I did the diagnostic test today and it doesn't flash any codes. I pulled the EGR valve off and cleaned the gunk out of it and it didn't make any difference. I tried to check the timing and it idles so bad the timing bounces 7-10 degrees with the surge. When I did the jumper to check the timing it would kill the engine. The plugs and wires are new with in a couple thousand miles. It runs fine above idle and pulls to redline easily in the lower gears.
Yesterday when I was messing with it I had the car running with the air boot from the air cleaner to throttle body off. I sprayed carb cleaner into throttle body and it seems to clear up a little bit. Then it went back to surging again.
I tried to pull the TPS off yesterday and of course the bottom screw stripped out. Now I will have to pull the throttle body off to get the screw out. I wish it would throw a code so I could have it give me a clue.
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Just acquired a 1990 celica gt at a steal lol and needing some troubleshooting answers. tonight was the first night we really had drove it, but my husband drove it to work which is an hour away and he noticed that when he comes to a stop the oil pressure light comes on. as soon as he starts to go again it goes off. the engine does not make any noises other than the typical 2200 lifter chatter and it does not leak oil.
We plan on doing an oil change so we are not sure if that could just be the issue or if it's something else. we had this issue with a dodge ram we had and it ended up being the oil pressure sending unit. he took the one off the car and it did need some tightening up but however when he put it back on the issue was still there.
We do not believe it's any low compression as the car cranks fine and normal with no rising of the cranking as you would get for a cylinder with low compression. we aren't really sure about the bearings because well that's not one of those things easily tested but the engine doesn't make a noise which I know at times you won't have one.
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