Celica :: 1987 Toyota 1600 GT - When Engine Completely Warm Up Idle Is About 1000 RPM
Dec 3, 2011
I got a 87 Toyota Celica 1600 GT, with a TVIS 4A-GE engine in.
My problem: when i just start the engine cold, it revs to 2500 RPM, and stays there for 1-2 minuttes and then falling to about 1500 RPM, and when the engine is completely warm my idle is about 1000 RPM.
first i think that 2500 RPM cold is a bit to much, and i dont know what to do with it. but my biggest problem is when the engine is fully warmed up, and i rev it to lets say 3000 RPM and then lets the gas of, the engine falls to about 500 RPM sometimes it stalls but if it not stalls then it would slowly gain some RPM and then it goes up to 1000 RPM again.
How can i prevent the engine falling that much when i let the gas off? it's quite annoying when i drive the car and comes to a stop it sometimes stall.
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The engine accelerates great and runs great at any speed, but if you push in the clutch without giving it gas, it will die, unless the idle speed is cranked up like it is now. What this might be?
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I have an 87 ranger that has started having problems over the last week or so. I had a similar problem a year or so ago. I put a new fuel pressure regulator on and it fixed it. So it started acting up again so I got another regulator and it didn't work at all. It won't idle at all without dying. The motor revs up then cuts out completely and dies. It's like I'm repeatedly pressing the gas pedal when I do get it to idle but I'm not touching it at all. It runs fairly well on the road until I let off the gas then it goes to shaking and jumping up and down till I get back on the gas.
A guy told me to unplug a little cigarette pack shaped plastic box and see if it changed anything. I think he called it a map sensor? But that didn't do anything. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter was clogged up but I don't really know. It is fuel injected 2.9 4x4 regular cab. About 110000 miles. Not sure if filter has ever been changed. It doesn't smoke or smell like gas so I'm thinking it's starving for fuel.
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I suspect a transmission problem, accentuated by a loose wheel bearing that I haven't been able to afford to get fixed yet. My Celica is an automatic, with about 213000 miles on it.
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Also put in remanned fuel injectors due to one leaking so i just replaced em all. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing belt, followed the oem manual word for word to install and remove and timing is right. But I got it all back together and ran great. until my tps went out(replacing that soon). Compression is now 180 across the board.
Now I got a knocking issue, Its quite apparent at idle/ low rpm.. solid sound, goes away at higher rpms, gets plenty of oil to cylinder head, started bout 150 miles after finishing. Im not sure where to start.
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It's a 1992 Celica, GTS 2.2L for reference.
After driving down the highway I noticed my temp fluctuated from half way to full and bounced around until I arrived at the closest Canadian Tire/Station. I looked under the hood and noticed the stain on the coolant container wasn't the actual level of coolant. I then topped off the coolant and parked the car for about a week. When I tried to start her up, I was faced with a weak and poor idle. Almost as if the car is struggling to run. I have had times in the recent years in the summer months were I felt I had to pump the pedal on really hot days to kickstart her so she would run. Was this a warning sign? Other than this problem I face, the car runs smooth. I did a good tune up 2 years back, replacing the ignition coil, plugs, etc..
The idle goes from 0 - 500RPM in neutral and when I apply gas it struggles to gain power. The car is parked, I don't dare to take her around the block. It stutters and seems like she is struggling to get fuel. I say that because, when the key is turned to the on position I do not hear the fuel pump underneath the back seat activate. I did try jumping the terminals, something like B+ and FP.... The pump turned on and I heard fuel but when I started the car, I still had the same problem. I would need to pump gas or she would stall out. I do not know where the fuel line is to try and check the pressure or even where the relay is located.
Could it be the Fuel Pump?
Could it be the Fuel Pump Relay?
Something Else?
My guess is the Fuel Pump, but if you could take a few mins and replay that would be great. I have had my Celica for about 7 years and I would like to keep her going!
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I just bought a 92 Toyota Celica for something to play around with. It's got just over 200,000 miles and everything seems to run alright except there is a really rough vibration at idle. The vibration is so bad that it's almost visible. You can still feel the vibration in drive but it isn't nearly as bad.
Any clue at what could be causing the vibration? I'll try to get a sound clip or video uploaded ....
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1991 Honda Accord DX A/T A/C. The engine is surging/searching at idle in park and in neutral from 1000 up to 2400. There are no engine fault codes.
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I have sprayed all possible vacuum hoses along with all intake gaskets to test for vacuum leaks.
I have attached a diagram of the black smog box that is mounted on the firewall. The cold idle diaphragm is labeled as 2. I also have concerns about that electrical vacuum solenoid labeled 27.
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1. seat heating is turning on without clicking on the button, but not always it's random. Often on passenger seat some time on driver side to. I try to disable fuse but it also for 4x4 so it's not an option.
2. My engine idle RPMs is always higher that 1000. Maybe it is normal but want to be sure.
3. car cannot climb the hills here is the video.... car is just doing nothing to climb no rev up no trying just stall in middle. In my country there is some roads with hills like this and I want to visit that places.
4. Cruise control is working random to maybe it will start speed control in one click or after 20 -s try.
5.Is there any way to see soc? factory unis is replaced in my car with aftermarket radio. I have elm327 and tourque pro but can't find that option.
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YouTube......
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The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
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My 2001 Toyota Celica GT was put through a smog test and it was running rich on the idle only. It has been tagged a gross polluter and so i finally got a code reader to try to diagnose why. When i plugged in the code reader it kept stating no codes. It does not have a check engine light on and has not had a tune up for a while now. I am in real need of my car now more than ever.
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I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
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I drive my pickup (87 Toyota 4-cylinder carburetor 5-speed Xtracab Deluxe) occasionally. When it's sat for a week or more it takes a few tens of seconds to start. I bought a booster battery. The charging light comes on, but it goes out as soon as the engine starts. I'm used to hard-to-start cars charging for a while after a long start. The voltage coming out of the alternator is okay. The battery is new; the density of the electrolyte is right.
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