1987 Celica ST
3sfe
auto trans
Last week the rad cooling fan stopped working. The fan itself is fine. It spins when connected directly to the batt. Relay tested good, and fuse isn't blown. I unplugged the temp. switch connector, and grounded it to the batt. to test the circuit, and nothing. Switched on the A/C, and both fans spin. So, where else should I look for the problem?
My son has a 1987 Chrysler 5th Ave. The transmission (auto) does not want to shift in reverse. It does go in neutral and forward. And it drives well forward. How to fix this?
View 1 RepliesHow do I replace the oil pan in my Celica? I have a crossmember directly below it.
View 2 RepliesMy 1987 Toyota Celica ST will not seem to turn over. When it has the push button addition that takes the power from the battery straight to the seloniod it works. But when i set the starter back up to the ignition switch and set it up factory style it will not spin over. it sends the 12 volts needed to start it but yet will not turn it over.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1987 Convertible Celica GT, with Manual Transmission. The car will not idle at lower RPM. I had someone look at it, and they have it where it will idle at 2000 RPM, but anything lower than that, and the engine will die when not giving it gas.
The engine accelerates great and runs great at any speed, but if you push in the clutch without giving it gas, it will die, unless the idle speed is cranked up like it is now. What this might be?
1987 Toyota Celica GTS 2.0 manual Transmission The Problem ... The power cable to alternator sparked on the side of the engine when I was connecting it. I did not think the battery cable was connected at the time but it was.. Now I have NO SPARK I have changed all the fuses at the battery could not find any that were blown but still changed them and checked all the fuses under kick panels none were blown. What should I look for now?
View 4 RepliesI have an '87 Celica and it takes a good 10 seconds of cranking to start. After being parked only 24 hours, it's the same thing. It won't even give a hint of a kick until about the 8 second mark. Then it'll give a couple of sputters and eventually fire right up. Is this the fuel pressure regulator that's the problem? Is it not keeping the fuel at the rail pressurized properly when sitting? It's just annoying having to sit there cranking for so long to get going. I would think if it was the pump, it would give me problems when running.
View 5 RepliesMy 1987 toyota celica brake pedal is going to the floor when I apply the brakes but not all the time,i checked the pads and shoes they are still good i also bled the brakes, I am thinking it is the master cylinder or maybe the master cylinder needs to be bled.
View 1 RepliesI was driving home from campus yesterday, and as I approached about 50mph, the Celica suddenly revved into higher RPMs, all the while slowing down. I pushed the gas pedal, which only worsened the problem. I was able to limp the car home. About an hour later, I tested the car again, and the problem remains: Accelerate to about 35-50, then get high RPMs while the car slows down and jumps forward.
I suspect a transmission problem, accentuated by a loose wheel bearing that I haven't been able to afford to get fixed yet. My Celica is an automatic, with about 213000 miles on it.
I got a 87 Toyota Celica 1600 GT, with a TVIS 4A-GE engine in.
My problem: when i just start the engine cold, it revs to 2500 RPM, and stays there for 1-2 minuttes and then falling to about 1500 RPM, and when the engine is completely warm my idle is about 1000 RPM.
first i think that 2500 RPM cold is a bit to much, and i dont know what to do with it. but my biggest problem is when the engine is fully warmed up, and i rev it to lets say 3000 RPM and then lets the gas of, the engine falls to about 500 RPM sometimes it stalls but if it not stalls then it would slowly gain some RPM and then it goes up to 1000 RPM again.
How can i prevent the engine falling that much when i let the gas off? it's quite annoying when i drive the car and comes to a stop it sometimes stall.
I have a 1985 Toyota Celica Gt-s, and i have quite a bit of oil in the radiator. The car does not overheat, and I am wondering what exactly causes the oil to get in the radiator. I just purchased a full engine gasket set, and a timing kit. I am going to replace the headgasket, and the timing. I am not sure if the headgasket is the reason oil is in the radiator, but I am hoping so. Also there is no water in the oil, just oil in the radiator.
View 9 RepliesThe car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
I replaced water pump with timing belt and thermostat. Took a test drive and engine still overheats. Radiater fan kicks in when it's hot. The upper hose from radiator to engine is very hot, only allows me to touch for 1 sec. But, the lower hose is warm, I can leave my fingers over it 10 sec or more. What is the problem? do I have a restricted radiator? Do I need a new one or I can flush and clean it. I posted a thread earlier regarding gunk in cooling system. I change coolant annually but it alway get brownish once it gets circulated around. The antifreeze leaked out from the car at junk yard where I removed the thermostat housing, looks much better than mine.
View 1 RepliesOk, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
I changed the radiator and thermostat, changed the coolant, and my fans work. however, whenever i take the car for a short drive, the temp goes up. I stop the car and shut it off, it steams near th coolant tank. it sounds like its almost boiling..
View 5 RepliesHave an 05 Auto GT which will vibrate when at a signal. If I shift into N it'll go away instantly. Had my motor mounts checked multiple times with multiple mechanics and they're fine. ATF is also clean and trans shifts smoothly.
I did run seafoam through it and it was fine for about a day, then started vibrating again.
2012 F-350 King Ranch Diesel. I am eventually going to purchase a camping trailer to pull with this rig. I am thinking of bypassing the radiator with my transmission coolant lines. I did this on another vehicle and it worked GREAT! That vehicle was a 2001 Isuzu Trooper with that crummy 4L30-E transmission. My trans temps stay round 170 to 175 on the freeway which is far better than the 190 to 200 range that GM says they will run. At any rate, 2011-2017 F-250 to F-350 applications? I was thinking of adding a filter or two with a fan-cooler from B & M Racing Equipment.
View 14 RepliesBefore taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
1991 Toyota Celica 2.2 liter standard water is boiling in upper radiator hose what could be the possible cause of this problem I have changed radiator and cap, water pump, radiator hoses and have flushed the system. could crossed hoses from engine to heater control valve and heater core cause this problem?The head has been checked and no exhaust gas was found in radiator fluid ...
View 4 RepliesWhen taking off the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift the truck will go into a neutral state for 2-5 seconds. when this occurs, the rpms will rev since your foot is on the accelerator. Once you let off the accelerator the rpms come down and the gear will catch. I have had the truck in the shop a few times without any luck. part of the problem is no codes are thrown so the dealer has no clue what to look for. This is extremely dangerous when in my case i pull out on a 6 lane hwy with 55mph speed limit. Ford more or less said to pound salt until a code is thrown or until something else happens. this nearly caused a nasty wreck 2 weeks ago.
View 14 RepliesMy 92 Celica 5SFE 2.2L auto sputters at half throttle. But if I release gas pedal, performance normalizes. I already changed spark plugs cables, ignition coil fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned injectors, replaced timing belt, engine starts right up and idles a bit high, around 1300 RPM when cold in Park, then when warm 800 RPM in drive. I don't know if it's an electrical issue or a vacuum related issue, spark plugs get carbon fouled after driving like this. I'm tired of having all the newer cars pass me by and my car "running" on 3 pistons.
View 6 Replies