Celica :: 1986 GTS Idles At 3500 Constantly
Jun 19, 2013
Okay, little back story me and my dad pulled this 1986 Toyota Celica gts out of the wood after been left to rot with a broken timing belt. Anyways we fixed it, got it legally driving, everything was great. Well minus the acorns that blow out the vents when the ac was on. I was going to work one day and the oil pump locked up and broke the timing belt. We then had the motor rebuild .04 over I think... It ran like a brand new car but shortly after about 3 months I noticed every time I got in the car to go somewhere the idle was going up with each start of the motor. Now after sitting for a long time I really wish to get it running again.
It hasn't been started in a while, 2 years maybe. As I'm afraid that it might hurt the newly rebuild motor. It last idled at a constant 3500 RPM, if you're driving down the road it just keeps going tell you find yourself in 5th gear. It wants to take off from stop signs like a rocket as well... I know its not the cpu because we got one and swapped it out and it still does it we done a few other thing like check timing and try to adjust the idle screw checked the distributor cap. it has no codes flashing when using the jumper next to the engine. it has all brand new parts alternate, water pump, o2 sensor, fuel pump, oil pump, fuel injectors. I think that's about it.
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2002, Has about 130k miles
1) Engine rattles at 3500rpm. Only at 3500rpm. 3000 is fine, 4000 is fine.
2) Just had my brakes replaced. They knock when I brake moderately, took it to the mechanic, who replaced them. They knock less now, but still knock. The knocking sound is kind of a pop that happens at 1 second intervals.
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How to remove the sunroof in my 86 GTS?
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its 1986 Ranger with a 2.9L V6 Auto 4x4, well to start with it seriously over fueling also it idles very roughly and even stalls out sometimes, when I'm trying to hold it at a speed it acts like it is missing (I guess that's from over fueling as well and it also pukes out lots of black smoke, it goes through way too much gas for a V6), but when I speed up fairly hard it acts fine until I try to maintain speed again, I have already put a tune up into it and a new EGR as well a fuel regulator and how to fix it?
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My 1986 Toyota celica supra stick shifter is pretty loose and I don't like it. Any way I can tighten it up?
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I have an 86 celica with a 3sgte swap. 92 Camry v6 transmission . It feels rough when going into gears. Not smooth. I just replaced the transmission and it feels EXACTLY like the old the.
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My 1986 celica gts stalls only after the engine has been off for approx. 10 to 20 minutes. It starts fine, but stalls as soon as it starts, unless i keep my foot on the gas for about 5 to 10 seconds. After that it starts and runs fine at all other times. I've changed the coolant temp. sensor, but condition still exists.
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I have a really nice 1986 Ranger XLT with a 2.9 V6 (injected) and OD Automatic with about 135k miles. I've had the truck for over ten years and have been pretty happy with it. I'm still trying to correct a couple of nuisance items:
1. Sometimes it runs smoothly, and at others it has a rough idle, and once in a while it will even stall. Before it stalls, it idles or runs roughly, and will miss erratically. When it quits, it does not fade out like it is running low on gas; it quits suddenly, like the ignition is turned off. If I am driving at highway speeds, sometimes it will buck as it misses, and sometimes stalls out. But it always starts up right away afterwards. This does not happen often, but when it does, it happens several times over hours or days, and then goes away by itself for months, even years, and then comes back for another round.
I was hoping whatever was wrong would totally fail, but it has been several years and is not getting better, nor worse. Fuel mileage varies, too, from 16 to high 20's MPG. I have new low- and high-pressure fuel pumps (dual tanks), new gas and air filters, checked all the electrical connections, put in a new ignition switch, new O2 sensor, Air Flow sensor, EGR, replaced all the vacuum lines, new battery and cables, new starter, all new electrical relays, fuel pressure regulators, new fuel pump inertia switch, tuned up engine (incl. wires, cap, rotor, ign module, plugs and timing), and cleaned out the already sparkling-clean tanks.
2. My oil pressure will drop at idle to low-normal when the engine is warm. It never goes to below Normal on the gauge. I have replaced the gauge, sending unit, and oil pump. This is a long-term issue, and is not getting any better or worse.
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My brake light goes off and on constantly. It happens when I am on an incline, start from a dead stop or go over a bump/into a dip. The fluid is fine, the pedal does not get soft or hard to press. Could it just be that the float is shot and needs to be changed?
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I have a 1986 Celica GT-S with 50,000 original miles on it. Car starts perfectly fine in the morning, runs fine, no issues. Problem happens when the engine is warm, and I let it cool off for about 10 minutes or so, at that point, when I try and turn the engine over, it would sometimes turn over and idle very rough, or sometimes it would die and I have to give it gas to keep the engine running. Once I am able to get it in gear and drive, the engine rpm would recover and go back to normal. I have new NGK wires, denso iridium spark plugs.
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Problem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?
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I have an 89 Celica GT that idles at 2000 RPM when first started up and even when it's warm it is still at about 1500 RPM. How to lower that? I failed my emissions test because it put out too much CO and the idle speed was one of the suspected problems.
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I just swapped the 1.8 7a-fe for a fresher 1.8 7a-fe. Everything is properly assembled, but when I start it up it idles low and doesn't run smoothly. As if it weren't timed correctly... My buddy claims it is though, and he ran it with a timing light.
Another issue is black exhaust, I'm not sure if they bare any relation but I know black exhaust cannot be good..
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I have a 1.8l 1zzfe that has been rebuild because of the oil consumption problem. Right before it was rebuilt, it became extremely sluggish and was popping po300, po302, and po171 constantly. When the motor was torn down #2 cylinder had a burnt valve, rings were stuck, and carbon everywhere. All bearings were in spec, but they were still replaced. Pistons, rings, timing set, and plugs were replaced. I am still getting a sluggish acceleration, and popping codes po171, and po300. I have tested the injector resistance, seemed ok. Tested spark, seems ok. Tested the wiring harnesses, cleaned the maf, intake, and checked all of the vacuum lines. Not sure what to try next?
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Well, a couple months ago my engine started making a noise. We located the issue to be a loose timing belt. We had it tightened, and the noise stopped, but since then it kind of acted like it was a little out of time with rough idles every now and then. This past week, I had driven my car out. I came to a 4-way stop and the car shut off on me. It would not immediately start back up so I pushed it to the side and waited a bit. It started up after sitting for a few minutes and cooling down. I got it back home and it stalled right as I was turning into my driveway (after the RPMs had lowered to idle).
A couple of days ago I set out to replace the timing belt as it seemed to me the timing was off ever since we tightened the belt and it eventually got worse, thus the stalling. I changed the timing belt, set the timing on the cams the way it shows to be set below:
I set the timing on the crankshaft pulley to the specifications found in this video:
Which is putting the crankshaft pulley on and turning it until it aligns with the '0' mark on the bottom timing cover. So I decide to start the car without anything else on to make sure its in time. It fires right up so I shut it off quickly and go about putting it all back together.
Once the car is completed, I attempt to start it again. It fires up, I back it up and it dies. It would not start back. I waited a few minutes and attempted to start it again, it started up so I pulled it back up to the same spot it was in and shut it off. Took the pieces off again, got it back to where I could line the timing up again. I again set the timing one more time to make sure. It was set correctly. I then tried starting the car again and this time it would not crank.
I gave up for now as its 30 degrees outside and I have been working on it non stop for 3 days to no avail.
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I have a 1989 toyota Celica ST with a 2.0 in it.
I have idle problems after the car has ran for about 1.5- 2 hours. It has a new cap and wires and plugs and a new intake on it and it still does it. I have it parked for winter right now because it cant get around in the ND winters so i'm just trying to get some ideas right now.
Also i pulled the cap off and there was oil in it.
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So I've had a problem with my celica. I've changed the vsv and the vacuum switching air control valve (Vsacv) ... I think the Vsacv went out already. New timing belt.. Engine is timed 10btdc. Cleaned intake and checked all vacuum lines
So the problem is that my Car idles at 2200 and will not drop unless I adjust the dist. Then the car bogs out. Put a new tps on last year which fixed the crazy idling but didn't fix the high idle... And it only drives good when the idle is that high....
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I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
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My brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
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So pre waterfest my car was accelerating as expected. It'll pull fine until about 3250-3500rpm then it'll get a little kick until about 6k. Now, I can feel the boost at around 3500rpm but it's very mild. It only holds boost until around 4500rpm.
I don't have a boost gauge installed but I have an app that will connect to a Bluetooth OBD dongle I have. I've used it in the past and it tells me how much boost I'm making. It shows that I am peaking around 24-27 lbs of boost. But it just drops shortly after without me letting off the throttle at all.
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I wait for the glow plug to stop before attempting to start. Then it's like Aaron Tippin sings, "sometimes she runs, sometimes she don't". It turns over fine. When it's running, it runs good. But most times it won't start. The fuel is being stopped somewhere. The in tank pump is working..I can hear it when I turn on the key. What else can I check?
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