Celica :: 1985 Switch Will Lower Power Window But Not Raise It
Jul 26, 2014
I purchased a 1985 celica GTS, convertible, rear wheel drive. I am having a problem with the drivers side power window. I can raise and lower the window with a direct 12v battery hook up to either the lift motor or from the terminals that connect to the switch. The switch will lower the motor but not raise it. When activated to raise the window you can hear the motor enterguise but will not lift. I check the voltage at the switch and I am getting 12 volts. What should I check next?
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I rented my car for a few days on Turo and it returned with this problem. The renter says nothing happened, who knows. When I raise or lower the window, there is a loud pop/crack that happens. It always happens at the same height. I can raise and lower the window for a couple inch around that point and reproduce that sound everythime.
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I have a 2012 accent. Left front window rapidly clicks when I try to raise and lower glass and glass won't move.
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I just tried to lower my passenger window, and it was completely dead. Driver's side works fine. Tried both the switch on driver's side and passenger side. Neither worked to lower passenger window.
Popped the hood and swapped out Pass & Driver's fuses. Pass side fuse is ok - ran the Driver's side ok.
Dropped the top and both windows ran down and back up ok. I'm guessing connection in driver's door(?). Maybe that switch for passenger window is bad?
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2010 Explorer XLT. The left rear power window lowers, but does not raise back up with the driver's master control switch (the 4 switch control on the driver's door). It does, however, lower and raise fine with the single switch on it's own rear door. Thinking it was a bad master switch module on the driver's door, I replaced it and the same thing still happens - works fine with it's own single switch but will only lower and not raise with the driver's door switch. All the other windows work fine. This has me totally stumped.
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I have a 97 xlt fully loaded. Have been noticing once and a while the battery drained enough not to start. Have been attributing it to my son not turning off the dvd player in the back. I was wrong. Went out this evening to pick up company van, and the truck was dead. When i reached in to unlock the door, i accidently pushed on the power window switch and the window rolled out....key was not in the ignition. It quit when I opened the door.
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Today on my 1-year-old RX 350:
moonroof makes a slight "ratcheting" sound when I raise or lower it,though Roof slides open and closed perfectly.
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I bought my first vehicle last October, a '99 F-250 with a 6.8 V10. I later found out (AFTER hauling a big load of rocks in a dump trailer) that one of the bottom leaf springs was broken. So this winter I have been thinking on what I want to do about it when it warms up. This is pretty much on top of the "to do" list for my truck. I did make a thread about putting 1 ton springs under it, but I think I'll just stick with the regular 3/4 ton springs. So now this is where I have another question, and I think this pic will tell some of it:
Now I'm not sure if those rear springs are stock, but that rear end is way the heck up there! The truck itself is not level, the front looks to be correct height, but not the back. A buddy at school and I were talking about a leveling kit for the front. But the more I look at it, I think the rear end should come down. I don't want to get bigger tires, as I just put brand new Transforce AT's on the back and plan to put new ones on the front in the near future.
Another question of mine is, would this have been a truck ordered just for pulling a camper? It has holes for a fifth wheel hitch in the bed, the rear end sits high, and it didn't come with a tow package. The PO told me that he put the receiver hitch on it. I'm fixing up stuff on it one thing at a time. Springs just happen to be next on the list.
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So today, when I rolled down my passenger window (2007 Sonata GLS) to talk to someone, I heard a popping sound and the window refused to roll back up. I got the car home and started tearing into the door panel (okay, not literally). By viewing different threads here, I have the door panel off, outside handle is off, all screws loosened (including the 3 for the door latch) and am trying to get the inner sheet metal panel off.
From everything I've read, you need to roll the window up the whole way in order to get the inner panel off; however I cannot get the window up the whole way! By lifting up on it, I have it about 2/3 raised, but it won't budge any more. I have been able to see that the window cable is broken (which explains why the window won't raise), but am at a loss on how to proceed. I'm leery of trying to force the window up any more. I'm tempted to try to pry the inner panel back enough to get the two bolts holding the window loose, but don't want to force *that* either.
So, how to get the window all the way up? And/or the inner door panel off?
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So I decided to drive my car this morning after almost 2 weeks of it sitting in the garage, got to the parking structure, pushed the button to lower the windows so I can swipe my auto parking card and it rolled down fine. Then tried to close the window and heard this metallic clicking sound and the window wouldn't raise. Called the dealership and drove right to them to look into it. Now I am stuck with a Jetta until my car is fixed.
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I have a 1985 Toyota Celica Gt-s, and i have quite a bit of oil in the radiator. The car does not overheat, and I am wondering what exactly causes the oil to get in the radiator. I just purchased a full engine gasket set, and a timing kit. I am going to replace the headgasket, and the timing. I am not sure if the headgasket is the reason oil is in the radiator, but I am hoping so. Also there is no water in the oil, just oil in the radiator.
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So this is a strange and unsettling problem:
I recently filled up my tank, drove about 45 miles on the highway and when I got out I noticed that gas was leaking out of the fuel filler cap. So I decided to open the cap to alleviate some of the pressure, but when I did that, a TON of gas came pouring out of it into the parking lot...
The pressure on the tank has always been kinda high in my opinion and there are times that I can smell gas when I'm driving along, but this is new. I tried looking for kinks in the lines, but there are none. I can't smell gas coming from the engine bay either.
Roll over valve? Pressure regulator? I mean there's not a whole lot to the fuel system.
things of importance, if at all relevant: 209k, Manual
Just did the fuel pump, but TRIPLE checked for kinks in the lines before reinstalling the fuel tank, and they're all pretty visible under the car anyway...
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My son recently purchased this truck in Jan., 2017, upon inspecting the vehicle we noticed the rear driver and passenger windows would not raise or lower. When I asked the seller about this his comments were " I believe it to be a master switch issue". Ok so no big deal, I purchased and replaced the master switch with no luck. I didn't spend much time on it due to the cold weather. After digging into this a little more I'm very confused now. So here is where I currently am at with this issue.
Power is not the problem, I am reading approx. 14V at the master switch and at the rear door switches. I've checked and have power when the switch is toggled to simulate raising and lower of the window (approx. 12 to 13.5V). The window lift motors have been taken out and cleaned and inspected. The motor will operate properly with a 12V battery pack (both motors, driver and passenger side). I have power all the way to the motor itself, slightly less than 14Volts.
I can raise and lower the window in the truck by plugging into the back of the female connector with the outside power source but not with the power supply from the truck. I have continuity between the power(blue) and ground(black) wires at the switches. So this is where I am at, also just a reminder the front windows and door locks work fine. Just a side note, this truck has aftermarket mirrors on it so that branch of the harness is left hanging.
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My battery on my Celica wouldn't hold a charge, as if my alternator was faulty but i took it to Azone and it was fine. Replaced battery around a month ago so i doubt that's the problem..checked fuses and "charging" fuse in fuse box next to battery was not getting current to i ran direct current to from battery it and it seem to have fixed the problem for about a DAY, then fuse blew..replaced it but it still seems to have the same problem ): btw the battery and brake lights stay on..
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I have a 1985 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. I bought it from someone who had it sitting for a couple years and the fuel pump needed replaced, no problem. It ran fine for about 2 weeks after getting it fixed, then it started giving me problems. The transmission seemed to be having issues shifting gears at lower speeds, but acted fine once I got up to 55+. The mileage dropped from 16 mpg to 4 mpg. It started stalling out whenever my foot wasn't on the gas, and then finally it quit running altogether.
I had a mechanically inclined family member take a look and he said it seemed to be starving for gas but other than that he had no idea, it tries to start but can't turn over. In the past year I have had the fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, and fuel injectors replaced but I'm not sure what else to look at. I'm hoping it isn't the transmission, we all know how expensive those are.
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I'm working on my sons 1985 Celica GT 22RE. He was having problems with it running rough.
I've isolated it down to the number 1 cylinder being starved on warm starts. If you cold start it the problem does not occur but if you let it sit warm for 15 minutes it will fire up but nothing from number one cylinder. Lots of spark but no firing. So I'm going to tear down the EFI and move the injector to see if the problem follows it. Will probably see if I'm getting any voltage to the injector while rough before tearing down.
I can't find anything about an injector not working once warm so I'm thinking it may be an ECU problem.
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower.
I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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I found one fuse is blown. It's located under the driver side labeled "gauge." However, if I replace with good one (10A), it will be blown again once I turn on the power.
The gas indicator and back lights will work in the combination meter. The rests (turn-on check up indicators, coolant temp, odometer) won't work. The moonroof and power window don't work, either. Radio/CD does work. Engine has no problem to start.
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The power window on the passenger front side will go down using the switch on that door, but, I have to put it up using the switch on the driver's side. What is happening?
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My front passenger window switch seems to have died. Where is the easiest/cheapest place to get one right away?
1996 1500LT, window works fine when I use the driver door switches.
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Just noticed the other day when when rolling up or down the window on my 2010 corolla, when the window reaches the upper / lower stop and the switch is held down, the idle speed drops and the engine stumbles. Alternator ?
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