Car runs and idles good until I turn on lights or fan rpm jump up about 500 to 700 above normal much worst with both on 1000 1500 and fluctuates. Engine runs rough the higher the rpm the rougher.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1983 E350 RV with a 460 engine. It would appear that many "Mechanics" have altered the wiring in different ways. That being said I think the charging and starting electrics are fairly untouched. My issue is that once it has been running for a while the interior lights start to fluctuate so does the radio display. The AC fan speeds up and slows down and I feel like there is not enough gas being pumped up too due to some coughing and sputtering. When I press the brakes the radio stops playing and if I have the AC on it gets worse. Today I changed the voltage regulator and it made no difference. This vehicle has two batteries, one for starting the van like normal and one to run the coach part. The alternator charges both. I think it must be a bad ground somewhere but not sure where to start.
View 2 RepliesOkay so last year i bought a 2000 celica gt manual with 50,000 miles, and currently has 67,000 miles. A few days ago I started to notice the engine was running rough and then about 10 miles later the chack engine light came on. I promptly went to the auto parts store to read the code. I was informed I have a cylinder 1 misfire. Naturally i replaced the spark plugs with NGK iridium, reset and rechecked engine code. Same code. Next i swapped the coils from 1 and 2, reset and rechecked. same code. I then swapped fuel injectors from 1 and 3, rest and rechecked. Same code. So now i am a bit stumped.
Only faulty equipment prior to this incident would be 2nd gear synchronizer. Only applicable above 5,800 RPM.
I have an 02 Venture WB Package with the 3400 engine. Within the last week is has started to run rough under load. This happens mainly when it is driving, but it does happen at idle when there is an incline or decline.
A little background of what happened. It has not wanted to start all of the time and i heard that it might be a dirty MAF. Well, the MAF is clean and still not wanted to start all or the time. During this time I noticed a plastic line going from the intake tube into the rear valve cover was loose, so I thought this was the problem. I have big hands and couldn't reach the rear vavle cover without rocking the engine forward. When I finally got the bolts out of the mounts that attache to the engine, the engine rocked back a little. I didn't think anything of this and ratchet strapped the engine forward so i could reach the valve cover.
I got the line back in and put the engine back where it is supposed to go and all was well. A few days after doing this my wife told me the van was running rough so i took it for a spin and she was correct. It is hard to describe the sound it makes, but it almost sounds like there is was too much stress on the engine when I have the gas peddle pressed. The van doesn't lose any power i don't think. The van sounds great if it is coasting.
It only does this when there is a load on the engine in drive or if it is idle or parked on an incline or decline. It goes into the shop on thursday the 30th, but I would rather not spend the cash if i can do it myself. I am totally lost with this one. I have a video of the sound when I am driving it, but the sound isn't too loud on the video.
I've had this noise on my 92 GT since I bought the car and it hasn't got any worse but I still am wondering what it is in case it's something serious. I hear a rattle/clatter coming from the engine or thereabouts, and it only happens under load (doesn't have to be heavy load, but I can't hear it in neutral or when the clutch is disengaged). It only happens above around 3000 rpm and the frequency of the rattle corresponds to the engine rpm. It's difficult to pinpoint the location of it because it only happens under load. Anyway, I made a short video of it and uploaded it to YouTube....
View 8 Replies126000kms on 03 explorer 4.6 truck started. Running rough at idle and under load.... Code came up for cyl 8 injector. Replaced injector... problem still there. Switched cop and plug with another cyl and plug.... same code and cycl 8 is definitely not working. Would a generic problem always affect i cylinder. I even checked wire clip on for injector... it appears ok. There is power to injector wire clip.
View 5 Repliesi have an 83 gt celica and i am have trouble getting the gear shift to go into 3rd gear. I can do it if i shift slowly, but doing this fast risks shifting into 1st or getting jammed between 1st and 3rd.
i have attached a link to a diagram of the shifter parts and this contains more info on the car and engine type if needed. My question is what exactly do i need to replace to make it easier to shift?I have removed the boot and the gasket just to look inside and see if something looks bent, but I have not taken out the retainer or the plate below, but i am thinking that is the piece i need to replace.
83' Toyota Celica GT with an automatic transmission. The problem that we are having is that we can't get it to turn over. All it wants to do is click at us. As far as we both can tell all cables and wiring harnesses are plugged in and there aren't any loose wires. We've had the alternator and starter checked and they both passed. Also there is a new battery with new terminals installed so that's not going to be the problem. In all of the reading that I've done I keep hearing about a neutral start switch. What is it? And where is it located? I believe I've found a spot where it should be but there isn't anything there. And we've put all of the parts in the car back where they go.
View 4 RepliesMy '99 was running rough - coughing/spitting/sputtering when under a load - especially at lower idle/rpms and going up inclines.
Brought to mechanic and he put it on "the scope" which told him the #1 pack was bad. Replaced. Got it back and it ran better, but, then went back to the coughing/sputtering.
Replaced the spark plugs - OEM Motorcrafts. Seemed perfect for a wee bit, now I notice an occasional cough/spit but all in all not bad.
Curious: was it foolish to not replace ALL coil packs at time of plugs or is it ...acceptable to do just the plugs and then come back and do packs if needed.
I Have a '83 Datsun 280zx and most of the electrical system doesn't work! I've checked the fuse link, ignition switch, fuse panel.
View 1 RepliesI have a friend of mine that has a 1983 and he had me change the water pump in it because it started leaking and it has been sitting for 7 Months now. I changed that but I can't get this bugger to start. I used to be a mechanic in a past life so I know what I'm doing most of the time so let me explain what has transpired here.
I attached my remote starter, turned on the key and cranked over the engine after shooting a little bit of starting fluid in the carb and she cranks over but won't start. I then pulled the #1 spark plug out and then did the same thing to check for spark and nada. I put my light tester on the coil and there was power. I have run into this kind of problem years ago with other vehicles so I thought I would just go ahead and replace the Coil and also the Control Module. After replacing these parts, still no spark. Since the distributor is there only to distribute the spark (meaning no electrical connections to it) I'm assuming that the Pick Up part that is down by the Crank shaft might be bad.
How to test either the Control Module or the pick up. I'm trying to diagnose this problem without needing to remove the module and taking them to the parts house for testing. (long drive). These wires should have 12 volts when the key is off and these wires should have 12 volts when the key is on.... and so on.
I have a 1983 Volvo GL 240 Auto trans. I've owned this car for a very long time ~20 years and have never had a problem with it. Since mid Autumn this year (currently Winter in Australia) when starting the car after it has been raining, left overnight in the cold or it is a particularly moist day the car will not start properly.
What happens is the car will start and I accelerate to take off the car will lose significant revs, stall and die. If I can get it out from the driveway and onto the road continuously for 5 minutes the car will run fine for the rest of the day.
But if I stop (to a halt) during this period and try to accelerate the car will again lose revs, stall and die. It is very hard from this point to get the car started again as the same thing continues to happen.
I have changed the spark plug leads, engine oil and trans fluid.
Those are the codes I'm getting. P0340, P1166 and P1167
Here's the story. Engine running flat under load. Easy acceleration is ok, but merging onto the turnpike causes a noticeable loss of power. Replaced the cam sensor, cleared the codes, ran ok for a day. Same codes came back, same flat performance.
Returned the cam sensor with another new one to make sure it wasn't a dud out of the box. Advance Auto Parts is awesome - replaced it no questions asked.
Installed the new cam sensor, cleared the codes. Ran great for a day, then the same symptoms came back, with the same codes. I'm thinking it might be the ECU? If it is, how expensive are they? And do they have to be programmed by the dealer?
This is a 2002 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic with around 147k miles on it.
Both engine cooling fans on my 1986 Camry are running all the time; even when the engine is cold.
View 12 RepliesWell, a couple months ago my engine started making a noise. We located the issue to be a loose timing belt. We had it tightened, and the noise stopped, but since then it kind of acted like it was a little out of time with rough idles every now and then. This past week, I had driven my car out. I came to a 4-way stop and the car shut off on me. It would not immediately start back up so I pushed it to the side and waited a bit. It started up after sitting for a few minutes and cooling down. I got it back home and it stalled right as I was turning into my driveway (after the RPMs had lowered to idle).
A couple of days ago I set out to replace the timing belt as it seemed to me the timing was off ever since we tightened the belt and it eventually got worse, thus the stalling. I changed the timing belt, set the timing on the cams the way it shows to be set below:
I set the timing on the crankshaft pulley to the specifications found in this video:
Which is putting the crankshaft pulley on and turning it until it aligns with the '0' mark on the bottom timing cover. So I decide to start the car without anything else on to make sure its in time. It fires right up so I shut it off quickly and go about putting it all back together.
Once the car is completed, I attempt to start it again. It fires up, I back it up and it dies. It would not start back. I waited a few minutes and attempted to start it again, it started up so I pulled it back up to the same spot it was in and shut it off. Took the pieces off again, got it back to where I could line the timing up again. I again set the timing one more time to make sure. It was set correctly. I then tried starting the car again and this time it would not crank.
I gave up for now as its 30 degrees outside and I have been working on it non stop for 3 days to no avail.
I have a 1986 Celica GT-S with 50,000 original miles on it. Car starts perfectly fine in the morning, runs fine, no issues. Problem happens when the engine is warm, and I let it cool off for about 10 minutes or so, at that point, when I try and turn the engine over, it would sometimes turn over and idle very rough, or sometimes it would die and I have to give it gas to keep the engine running. Once I am able to get it in gear and drive, the engine rpm would recover and go back to normal. I have new NGK wires, denso iridium spark plugs.
View 2 RepliesPulled up to customers home and took key out and engine kept running. Disconnected battery, engine and aux turned off. Then Connected battery and power came on as if the key was in. Then put key in and turned with no change in power or engine trying to turn. Disc battery, put key in first then connected battery and truck started. Last stop took key out as well as disc batt and engine stayed on this time. repeated steps above several times to get back. Looking for narrowing the problem,possible ignition key cylinder, actuator or possible bad circuit.
View 4 Replies2006 Ford Freestar. While we were on the road the electrical system failed but the engine kept running. No radio, no lights, no a/c, no ABS, no nothing – but were able to keep on driving. When I tried to turn on the fan or the a/c, the car hesitated as though the power was being interrupted. After 10-15 minutes of driving, everything seemed to return to normal. It starts and seems to run normally now, but we are hesitant to take it out on the road. What might be going on?
View 3 RepliesMy turn signals will not work with the engine running. With the engine off they will. With the engine running if I move the ignition like I am going to turn it off they work.. Is it the ignition switch or ign cylinder....
View 5 RepliesI have 93 GT-S, AT, 2.2, 163,000 miles.
My problem is slow acceleration. As I get on the highway and give it the gas my car slowly climbs to my travel speed at 75 mph. She will climb steady at around 3000-3100 rpm. When I punch it the car revs to approx. 4000 rpm but then quickly drops back to 3000 without me letting off the gas. Almost sounds like its bogging down. Another thing I noticed while cruising at around 65 mph is that the car bucks a little but I don't hear any misfiring. Also, when I do step on the gas, the car is severely louder. Almost sounds like it's coming from under the hood. I tried parking it, opening the hood, and listened to the engine while giving her the gas but she sounds much quieter. So the louder noise seems to happen under load. Please note there is no check engine light.
Is this one issue or possibly multiple issues? Could my TPS be an issue here as well?
My mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
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