Celica :: 03 GT High Idle From 1100 To 2000 RPM
Apr 24, 2010
My girlfriend has a 03 celica gt with around 126k on it. most resent it has had a problem of high idle its sits anywhere from 1100rpm to 2000rpm. I replaced the the tps sensor figuring it was the problems it seemed to get more consistent with the new tps it now sits at 1100 but it may still be high I don't drive it a lot. And I forgot to mention no engine lite. I've herd its not common with toyota. I also looked for vacuum leaks as well but found nothing.
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I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
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Inherited a 2000 Saturn SL1 from my daughter. I has an issue of idling high. It idles about 1100 rpm in park, but when I put it in gear that jumps up to about 2000 or so. I can hit 35mph w/o hitting the gas. There's also a noticeable suffer type smell from the car.
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I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
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I have a 1997 Ranger with a 3.0 v6 with a super high idle.
It idles at 2500 RPM when the IAC is plugged and a steady 1100 when unplugged. I have replaced the IAC twice now (dropped the first replacement. long story) and and have also checked for vac leaks with no results.
After about 2-3 minutes of idling at 2500 on a cold start it will drop down to 1100 (same as when IAC is unplugged), but after a 10 minutes or so drive it will idle steady at 2500 with minimal if any dropping in RPMs. This is driving me crazy not only because it sounds horrible but also because of the fact it's burning through fuel like it's going out of style.
I have checked the MAF sensor and it looks brand new (not the original owner) along with the O2 sensor. I have been meaning to check the TPS voltage to see if it's working correctly but without a working multi-meter it's making it difficult to do anything.
I'm at a loss with this right now and because of all the previous repairs i have done to it and the others that still need to be done i don't have the biggest budget to fix this problem nor the money the truck is using in gas.
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I have a 2000 GT with over 120K miles on it. The car works perfect, just a minor issue with O2 Sensor that I am going to replace soon
My question is, when I'm on the highway going around 70 to 90 miles on fifth gear, her RPMs are about 4K to 5K, is that normal??
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I have a 2000 Celica GT. Today I discovered that the blue high beam indicator is not showing in the dashboard. The high beam, low beam, and daytime running lights all are working.
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I just got a 87 celica for $500. Anyway it runs at 2000 rpm's for an idle, could a valve adjustment be a possible problem? Also where is the best place to find some performance parts for this thing? Would like cams, headers, pistons......?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S.
When ever it is idleing and i hit the gas it bogs like its going to stall but then revs up. Difficult to get out of first because of the bog might stall it. My check engine light came on and it said rich fuel as well as oxygen sensor. Do the oxygen sensor would cause this because their are 2 and are expensive if I change it and turns out not to be the prob.
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Recently, my car has been having issues starting. It will start if I get a boost, but will be dead if I turn it off again. Also, while I'm driving, the airbag, ABS, and traction lifts all come on, and eventually my radio will shut off, but after a few minutes the radio will come back on and the warning lights will go off. When i first start the car it idles as it should but if I rev it will idle at about 1100 RPM. What might be causing all of this? Battery? Alternator? Or EPC?
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So my car started doing some weird things. at idle and only at idle it will go up and down between 1100 and 1500 rpm. No throttle input no clutch input or brake input. I do have a CEL on but when I read the code it gives me 01314 on brake electronics setting. I'm using a vchecker pro. I go into all the engine brake airbag and trans menus and do clear fault codes and this fixes it but id like to know what the actual problem is.
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VW Passat b5 1.9 TDi AVF engine ... When I start my car in cold the idle keep moving from 800 to 1100 rpm. and sometimes when i start the engine in hot it revs till 2000 rpm. I never scanned with vag com? I think G62 sensor problem???
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Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
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I noticed on 5 different occasions so far this year that my idle speed will increase to around 1100 rpms when sitting at idle for more than a few min. Last summer it did it while running a/c, and today it did it with cold weather. The rpms are usually at 550, what happens is the pcm will decide to increase idle speed for no reason at all. Start driving it, and the next time at idle it will stop doing it, a couple times it went down to 550rpms, then went back up to 1100rpms. I recently changed the spark plugs, the air filter is clean, and runs good. I have a code scanner, no pending codes. I have 53k miles. I wonder what could cause this?
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I recently bought a 2000 passat 2.8 v6, and ive noticed that there is a dead spot in the rpms. It also will randomly have problems idling at a certain rpm usually will fluctuate between 900 and 1100 and i have to give it gas in order for it to stop. Also when you give it gas and try to hold it at a steady rpm it keeps going up and down and wont stay at one rpm speed. I thought it would either be the tps or idle control valve but cant quite seem to find it. planning on cleaning the TB soon and replacing some hoses to see if it clears it up.
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Morning are getting colder engine runs at 1100 to warm up OK I understand that. But after running around town and engine is warm, I checked again, still at 1100 RPM. Shouldn't it be lower or is that what the batteries need?
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2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.
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I noticed a slightly higher RPM at idle (1100-1200) with outside temps in the mid 50's after a 15 mile trip. I dont recall what it usually is, it just seemed to revving higher. What would say normal RPM's are on a warm engine.
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My brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
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I have a 2000 sc2 saturn DOHC 1.9 engine with just under 200k miles.
My problem is this, I recently purchased this car and was told it is in desperate need of a tune-up, being broke I decided to replace the cheapest parts first. I started with spark plugs, they are all gaped at 0.40 and all are new and the right ones for the car, ever since i changed the spark plugs the car has been idling rough (when i start it rpms go to 2500+ for about 10 seconds and drop to about 800-1100, when i shift into any gear it revs the rpms back up and they drop gradually). My other problems are that my car sounds like it is souped up and sounds like a rice rocket, when i put it in drive it starts to accelerate on its own and has reached around 40 mph at a gradual increase.
My uncle who was a mechanic said it could be the IAC, EGR or throttle position sensor, or cadilityc converter i replaced the IAC and it don't really seem to have worked much.
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I have a saturn sc1 2001 and the idle is pretty high (2000rpm) what could be the problem ? i already cleaned the IAC ...
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