Cavalier :: When Turns The Key Can Hear Starter Kick Out But Engine Not Turning On
May 15, 2014
My friends cavalier stopped running about a week ago. It is a 98 with the 2.2 liter. When she turns the key you can hear the starter kick out but it wouldn't turn the engine. I figured it was the starter solenoid, but just to play it safe I took the starter off and had it tested. the starter passed. I put it back on but I left the flywheel cover off, I had her turn the key and you can see the flywheel turn a little bit, so I am pretty sure the starter is fine. I am not sure where to go from here, everything seems to be working fine but the engine just wont crank. I can turn the engine by hand so it doesn't seem like its stuck.
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I've been fighting this almost a month now.2.2L Engine.
The engine turns over, but want start.
We have fuel pressure (55psi) and a spark.
Sprayed ether in the intake -- nothing.
Changed the crankshaft positioning sensor. Put a simple scanner on it, it stated no errors or faults could be found.
Tried another ignition module, checked the PCM fuse and ignition module fuse, both look fine.
Installed an anti-theft system bypass and followed the reset instructions. Didn't fix.
Just for fun we changed the spark plugs as well.
Now, the person I was with who saw the spark (I was inside the car) says the spark looked "weak" to him. Is this possible?
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What might be going wrong with my 2003 Celica GT? The problem is that it infrequently is taking longer to start. The starter turns over the engine, but it does not fire. It continues for a considerably longer time to crank the engine, then finally it fires and starts. Could it be that the fuel pump is beginning to fail?
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The car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
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A couple of years after buying this I had problems with door locks and power windows. (No locking or unlocking or up/down) after looking this up as recommended I removed and replaced all the relays in the power distribution panel. (No fix) I next removed the battery so I could turn this power distribution panel over, then unplugged all the plugs and reseated them. (Wiring plugs) this got everything working. About 1 year later the same issue, with the same fix. About one more year later I encountered a starting issue... you could hear the solenoid click, but no starter engagement.
I checked the starter and it was good. So on a hunch I flipped the fuse panel over, reseated the wire plugs and it started right up, but it was intermittent for a few weeks. After several unplug and reseat the wires it was good again. Six months later it would spin the starter fine, but wouldn't start up. I first checked for fuel and it was good. Next I checked for spark and there wasn't any. Just a hunch... I went after the power distribution again and ended up taking it completely apart, also computer on the end of it, cleaned up all the connections and it fired right up.
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I have a 1995 Ford Ranger, manual shift. It always starts when cold, but sometimes -- very sporadic -- it will not start after I've gone somewhere. This has happened maybe 8 times over the past 18 months or so. Always, after sitting a while, it starts right up as though nothing happened. Several months ago I left it with a mechanic for an entire week, but he could never get it to act up. Of course.
In browsing through these discussions, I've seen the "starter/clutch interlock switch" mentioned. Here is my question, though. Would the starter still crank if that was the problem? or does that switch stop the starter from engaging?
When mine acts up, the starter cranks, the engine turns over ... it just acts like it's not getting fuel. Is that a starter/clutch interlock switch issue? Or something else?
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My 2008 F150 5.4l SCrew wouldn't start this evening. The engine turns over and the starter engages, but it won't fire. Oddly enough the starter stays engaged after I take my hand off the ignition! I have to physically turn the key off for it to quit (didn't want to burn out the starter). The culprit may be the wet weather....it's been a lot milder today and we've had some freezing rain that turned to drizzle. My truck has only done this once before (last year I think). I eventually got it to start tho.
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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I'm having problems with starting my car when the engine is hot. Cold engine starts normally. But when the engine is hot and when I turn the engine off and return after few hours- it wouldn't start or it's very hard to start. Starter keeps turning but the engine revolutions are very low and the engine wont start. When I give it some gas it starts and the engine runs normally. I have already changed the coolant temperature sensor and one of the coils- no change. And the coolant seems to be wanishing too, but it happens very slowly. (There are no signs of leakage anywhere.) Maybe it's something to do with it?
The car is 2001 year VW Passat 2.3 V5 125kw (azx).
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Yesterday my truck began to give me some problems starting. The engine turns over just a couple of times then it sounds like the starter disengages and winds up. it took multiple attempts but it finally fired up. Does this sound like the starter or could it possibly be the starter relay?
2002 F350 CCLB Lariat 7.3
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Is it possible to keep the stereo on when turning off the engine with Kessy? There are usecases where turning off the stereo with the engine is not necessarily the right thing to do.
I was able to control this in all previous cars by leaving the key in the ignition, stereo would go off when pulling the key out.
How does one accomplish this with Kessy?
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Drove about 10 mins and parked. Came back 5 mins later and wouldn't start. Starter click can be heard when trying to crank but doesn't turn engine. Checked fuse (#113) and starter relay - both are good. AAA came out and tried to jump but no success. Flat bed towed back to my house last night.
This morning, woke up bright and early to pick up brand new Napa Premium starter. Replaced it thinking that was it. No dice- same thing, 1-click, no turning of engine.
Batteries & terminals both good & clean. Hooked up 2 additional fully charged deep cell marine batteries via jumper cables and no difference. Voltage @ starter terminal = 12.4V.
When cranking, voltage drops all the way down to 1-2V if holding the key in the crank position (1 click and then nothing). Returns back up to ~12V when released.
Jumped pos terminal to starter solenoid, got clicking but doesn't turn engine.Is my tranny or engine frozen...?!
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I changed the starter on my friends sunfire gt the other day because it wasn't working. After replacing the starter the engine turns over but refuses to start. When you turn the key on you can hear the pump buzz like normal, but it just cranks and cranks without even firing.
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2002 Golf IV 1.9 TDI 4motion 130 hp.
Sometimes (not always) when cornering to the left in a curve the ESP activates even on dry asphalt. A bit annoying.
What I have checked so far; tire pressure, no fault codes on abs sensors, wheel alignment just done (but didn't work). Abs, esp and awd works as normal...
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2010 f150; intermittently the key turns fully without turning the engine on. Still under warrenty, been to shop twice, cant find anything wrong and service people have no clue. new battery, no codes. Occurs usually after the truck has run never when sat idle for a period. Start after a while can be 1 min to 2h.
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I purchased a 2008 Santa Fe this summer.
Since then, the ESC OFF light turns on a couple of minutes after turning on the engine and stays on. This occurs all of the time.
Occasionally, the radio will freeze up and I can't change the channel, adjust the volume or turn it off. It will work again if I turn off the engine and restart.
Two days ago, the horn stopped working. Is it possible that these are related problems?
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I have a 1997 chevy cavalier, 69000 miles. It runs great BUT, when it gets below 35degrees, it will turn over and over but not stay running. After many attempts, maybe for an hour, it will stay running. Regular maintenance, and cold weather maintenance have been applied. New battery and cables. I took it to the shop and they could not find anything wrong.
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I drive a 2003 Chevy Cavalier with approximately 75,000 miles on it, and it has always run exceptionally well. However, during the last couple of months it has developed what I would consider a lower-pitched "whine" or "groan" emanating from the front of the car when making a turn. Here are a few specifics:
-The noise is more pronounced on tighter turns and/or when moving at a faster speed. For example, doing a U-turn causes the noise to be very pronounced; turning into a parking space at a very low speed barely creates any noticeable noise at all.-The noise seems to be worse when making a left turn than when making a right turn, however turning either direction can create the noise.-The noise seems to have gotten slightly more pronounced over time--that is, it doesn't seem to have been triggered by a single event such as running over a pothole.
I am not particularly well-versed in diagnosing car problems, particularly when it involves anything to do with the drive train (which is what I suspect here). Some rudimentary internet research seems to point towards a damaged or failing CV joint in one of the front wheels, although this has not been properly diagnosed. Thus, my questions are as follows:
-What is the likely source of the noise? Is a damaged CV joint the most likely explanation, or is this explainable in other ways?-How serious of a problem is this? If indeed it is the CV joint, my understanding is that this is an issue that needs to be addressed promptly as it could quickly become a dangerous situation (some reports indicate that the wheel(s) might come off while driving).
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When I turn on the a/c I feel/hear vibrations from the dash. Almost like a subwoofer - a solid note though. Shut the a/c off, the fans in front of the engine shut off and it sounds fine. Cooling fluid is fine. No noticeable shakes under hood. Any clue?
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The car has been sitting since last March (11 months). I have 3/4 tank of gas. The starter turns and the car almost starts. I suspect old gas is the problem because it sounds as if it wants to start and the gas is old. Could it be the injectors are clogged? If so, is there a way I can clean these myself? Or maybe another diagnosis?
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So my sister has a 2000 Ranger 2.5L. I put in a new starter today for her today, and the second I re attach the battery terminal it turns over but wont fire.?
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