I have a 99 Chevy Cavalier with the 2.2L OHV engine, and I've been dealing with vibration when braking, especially at highway speeds. I just had it in for service and my mechanic replaced a warped front rotor and said that was the problem. It's better now than it was, but I'm still getting some vibration.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 chevy cavalier, the base 2.2 model with a 5 speed manual transmission.
I can't shift into 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear. On occasion I can get into 1st but it pops out almost instantly. I have the shift boot up, it looks like the shifter won't go far enough to click into gear for the top 3 gears.
2nd and 4th don't have any issues, reverse works as well though can sometimes be more difficult than usual.
I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier, 4 door, I had it jump started a couple of times, and it locked my stereo,/ Cd Player, I have tried everything, You are not able to do anything with it, it just says locked on it, I have tried to get any codes to come up but they don't, If I push any buttons, I also don't have the codes to it or manual to it.
View 1 RepliesRecently the 'check engine' light went on in my 2005 Chevy Cavalier. since I couldn't afford the typical diagnosis charge, I went somewhere where they code it at no cost. They said it was the gas cap, so I went to a dealer & bought one. (They also turned the light off for me.) Problem is now the light is back on. While I was at the dealer, the mechanic said it will have to be properly checked to pass inspection; apparently it has something to do w/ emissions. Is that true?
View 2 RepliesMy AC pulleys bearing froze up and broke the belt. I replaced the pulley and clutch, checked fuses and relays, all good. The clutch still wouldn't engage.I bought some AC 134A and put half a can and its still not engaging. How do I get that clutch to engage?
2002 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Ecotec engine
We have base line 2004 Cavalier coupe that has about 130K miles on it. It is currently doing two things: When the car is idling the engine begins to overheat, and the air conditioning goes awol. As soon as forward movement begins again, the temperature goes back to acceptable levels, and the air conditioning becomes cool again. Since these problems occur simultaneously, it leads me to think they might be related.
View 2 RepliesI have a manual transmission, 2003 Chevy Cavalier with 197,000 miles. Car has been great up until 6 months ago. My husband is great with keeping up with oil changes/ routine car maintenance. The reason for my post is, I am having two main problems with my car
1.) Significant drops in RPMs while stopped.
2.) lurching while on the accelerator.
The significant drops in RPMs occur while at a complete stop and do not occur at every stop, it seems completely random. This first started roughly 5-6 months ago, my husband replaced the spark plugs and it was running fine until last week. Same symptoms- while at a stop it fluctuates between an idle of 1000rpms down to almost 0 (car has never died, but sounds like it comes close). The second set of symptoms have been fairly consistent the past 2-3 months. At first I thought I had some bad fuel so I applied fuel treatment- seemed to solve the problem until I filled up again. Same problem- again treated with fuel treatment, and issue resolved.
The same tank of fuel got down to 1/4 tank, and symptoms started a third time. Again- fuel treatment. The car is now down to 1/2 a tank and the lurching has started once again. There is no way I continue to get this unlucky with bad fuel. The car lurches forward more when I maintain a higher speed (50-60mph) but on occassion can occur while going much slower. It typically jerks for 5ish miles, it doesnt occur my entire drive to/from work (22miles). My check engine light is on, but has been for years. This is my daily driver, I depend on this car and am nervous if I dont find out what is wrong- ill end up stranded.
2004 6.0L Excursion Limited 4x4.
I recently developed a "rumble" with vibration while braking. I describe it as a rumble because I associate it to a similar sound, cadence, and feeling as if you were slowing down on the rumble strips you find on the side of the highway.
It is mostly only noticeable at lower speeds. I know the sound and feeling of warped rotors, but this seems different. If it makes any difference, one issue I've been dealing with is that the front transfer case does not release when 4x4 is off and hubs are in AUTO.
My brother's 1995 chevy lumina 3.1 engine has been dying while braking for a stop and while reversing. Has replaced fuel filter, map sensor, throttle sensor, o2 sensors and still no change. He says he doesn't believe a tune-up is the cause either.
View 8 RepliesI'm having trouble finding the source of a vibration in the front end if my 1999 f350 super duty 4x4. The vibration is felt all the time but worse when under 40mph, while braking, and especially when turning.
I have replaced the rotors and brakes, tie rods and Drag links since the issue started but no change. In the vibration. What should I check next?
I have had this issue with the braking system for about a year now. Most of the time when using the brakes, everything works fine, but once in awhile, it seems like the brakes on one (I think one) wheel seem to just let go, apply full braking power, or both one after the other. When this happens, you hear loud clunking sounds (which I guess it the caliper going from on to full off and back again) and the rear of the car will raise and lower with the instances. There are also times when a high pitched squeak sound comes from the wheel (like when a bus uses their brakes) which will normally happen a second before coming to a full stop. It does not happen at the same time, but I think is related. Going off the sounds and rear of the car moving I tend to think this is focusing around the driver's rear tire. The brake fluid has been changed, the brakes have been changed on all 4 wheels, and so have the all brake lines to the cylinders. There are no leaks anywhere in the system. The car does have ABS.
View 13 RepliesMy 2003 Ford F250 V10 seems to have a vibration, sometimes at all speeds and sometimes at freeway speeds. I replaced front hub assemblies and ball joints and rear calipers last year. When braking i have a vibration in rear as well, which I think is from uneven rotor but can it be causing my vibration? Also sometimes I can smell hot brakes from the rear.
View 2 RepliesPassengers side tail light doesn't react when braking, using hazards or blinker, what do I replace? The bulb is lit, but doesn't blink or brighten when the brakes are applied. As of right now I'm replacing the bulb socket seeing as when I replaced the bulb the contacts were covered in a brown crust, is there something else I should be looking at?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier. I've been getting a pulsing vibration which feels like the left front. It starts at about 40mph and gets worse the faster I go. The vibration completely goes away with the slightest left turn on the freeway. It vibrates on acceleration and deceleration, in neutral and in gear (5spd manual). I've currently replaced the front struts, strut mounts, pads and rotors, left front wheel bearing, tie rod ends, had the front end aligned and the tires balanced.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 chevy Trailblazer that when you put it into drive there is a vibration.It does not do this in park or neutral. I have checked the engine mounts and transmission mount, and they look good. The vehicle has a little over 118,000 miles on it and the engine runs and drives great except for this vibration that i do not know where it id coming from. What may be my problem?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 chevy suburban 4wd with 156000 miles.. I had tires replaced last week due to them being chopped. They caused a low humming noise between 65-70mph. That was coming from the front.Below or above this speed the sound was not noticeable. I had new Coper AT-3 tires replace all around and balanced 5 days ago. The noise has become worse and starts at 61 mph and gets louder up to 70 an with a slight vibration . I have not gone above that speed to se if the noise goes away as I feel a bit uncomfortable going any faster with this issue . The tires were balanced so was wondering if I have bad tires or if the new tires being all terrain are causing more strain on what could be a bearing. The wheel bearings are fine and the rear bearings and pinion bearing were replaced two months ago . I know all terrains will make noise but not to this extent .
View 2 Replies1992 Chevy Cavalier, about 120,000 miles. A few months ago my car has started to rumble and vibrate while idling in drive. It only occurs while I'm in drive and completely stopped. If I change to neutral or park, it immediately goes away. Also, if I'm in drive, keep my foot on the brake and give it a little gas, the vibration goes away. I've changed the spark plugs, had the throttle body cleaned (not very thoroughly) and my mechanic said my engine mounts look fine and to not worry too much about it. Is this a problem I can ignore as an inconvenience or should I put more effort into getting this fixed?
View 2 RepliesIt took me a while to realize it, but my Phaeton vibrates as it rolls. My wife and friend only noticed it when I called their attention to it, but I've come to pick up on it every time I drive the car, as shortly as a few blocks away from home, from about 30 MPH and upwards.
How do I know? Well, we have two other cars, including a Touareg and a smart, and those two sure do not vibrate the way the Phaeton does! My wife and I just pick up whatever car, so I am likely to drive two or three cars on any given week. I've tried to ignore it, but to me, every time I pick up the Phaeton, it is very bothersome to me.
I've put new tires on the car, had them "force balanced", the computer scores came out great, and the alignment technician at the VW dealership said he can't feel the car vibrate while we rode together. The rims are good and straight. But it clearly does vibrate.
By the way, the front suspension shudders very un-German-like in potholes. I speculate it is related. But I am dreading taking the car to the VW dealer service technician and have him come back that the car is fine.
Yesterday when I was on my way to a funeral, I noticed that whenever I braked kind of hard there would be a lot of noise and vibration on my car. The noise seemed to be coming from the front passenger side of the car and seemed to pull to the right a bit. I pulled over and took a look and everything looked fine but the sound and vibration was still there.
I drove about 10-15 minutes tops like this, parked the car, did the funeral home service, and 2 hours later while driving to the burial site (about 20 minute drive on the streets and freeway), everything felt fine. No vibration, no noise, nothing.
After the burial site I drove another 15 minutes to my parents house but this time you could hear the sound faintly and only when I braked hard. I jacked up the car and took off all the tires to take a look at the brakes/rotors and everything looked ok. I had plenty of pad left and the rotors seemed fine. With the tires on, I am able to spin the tires with my hands no problem.
This morning I drove to work and had no issues at all. No sound, no vibration, nothing. So at this point, I am stumped at what could have caused the noise and vibration earlier yesterday morning.
My 03 Passat is going in for 40k service this week. I think they're going to tell me I need new brakes and rotors (felt some pretty heavy vibration during braking in the Tennessee hills). I was thinking of changing the front brakes myself. My mechanical abilities are modest, but I've done the brakes on my 94 Ford Ranger before.
1. Is this an easy task?
2. What parts will be needed?
Noticing excessive vibration when braking after 50-60 mph speeds.
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