Cavalier :: 99 Sunfire 2.2L Cranks For About 5 To 8 Seconds Then Start
Jul 29, 2008
I have 99 Sunfire 2.2L doesn't like to start right away. You turn the key and it cranks, cranks, cranks, and does that for about 5-8 seconds then start. If I shut the car off and turn it back on within an hour it seems to start pretty quick,(my only crank for a second or two).. It seems to be when it sets for a few hours it just hates to start. It always cranks strong .. i.e. it doesn't crank weak or slow like when your batter is very low.
I put a new alternator in it about 3 years ago and new battery in it last week. I do not have a system or any accessories that maybe causing any interruption. I have had this problem for year now and I have had it.
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98 sunfire 2.2L
Basically the only way we can get my car to start is by hooking another battery up to it. Like, we plugged the tractor's battery up to it as we were going to jump it, but we didn't turn the tractor on. Then my car would start. The second we take the jumper cables off my battery it will die though. One time it did hold a charge for a minute or two before shutting off.
Also, my battery light is constantly on, even when hooked up to another battery, like the tractor one. We replaced the alternator today (got a brand new one) thinking that was the problem but still no dice. What else could it be? Could it be my battery that's less than 7-8 months old? It shows 11 volts when we put the meter on it. The new alternator is also showing that it's getting charge.
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I changed the starter on my friends sunfire gt the other day because it wasn't working. After replacing the starter the engine turns over but refuses to start. When you turn the key on you can hear the pump buzz like normal, but it just cranks and cranks without even firing.
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My sunfire is not shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. I will shift fine all the way up to 3rd and then ir revs like it is in neutral when i hit about 43 mph. it gets a little bit of a jump if i get off the gas all the way and then back on it and i can get it up to 55 but the rpm's are at 4.5. I read a few different posts that seemed like they may have had the same problem but they werent describing the way my car is acting. I went and got the fluid exchanged today and also changed the throttle position sensor on a whim because someone told me it could be the problem.
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2000 sunfire SE 2.2 L engine. Firstly, I should mention the present temperature out here is -37 C.
So here is the issue I am experiencing. The car does not idle smoothly. In fact I find it idles a lot lower then my fiances 2005 sunfire (hers idles at about 1000 RPM). My car idles around 750 RPM. and I've noticed for last couple months when just idling its not very smooth. The RPM will idle at 750 and then drop down a bit and back up again. It never has been a big problem till now.
While driving it yesterday, whenever I would let go of the accelerator the RPM would drop right down to 500RPM, and you would hear as the heater (air blowing) would completely drop down, and lights would dim significantly, and then within a split second, RPM would jump back up to 750 and blower and lights would return to normal. It almost feels as if the RPM is too low for Alternator?? That it's not able to produce enough power for electrical devices. As well, while braking if the ABS kicks in again I see this drop in RPM along with lights dim and blower airflow drop. Once again only for a split second though.
Here is the big problem. the drop in RPM and amount of disruption it causes actually had my car stall when I let go of gas and hit brake and had ABS kick in.
I am not sure if this is a problem with having the idle set too low, spark plug problem or something do with alternator?
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I have a 2001 Pontiac Sunfire with a 2.4 liter engine.
I just had the waterpump replaced and the lower coolant tube, I believe it's called, by a mechanic, which was quite a long job and a bit of a costly bill.
I went to pick the car up earlier and as soon as I started it up, the car was shaking back and forth as I was sitting in park. I immediately got out and went and told the mechanic. He looked under the hood, and the engine was very clearly shaking back and forth.
He couldn't give me an explanation as to why it would be shaking like this - and it wasn't doing it before I brought it in to have the water pump changed. It's the weekend now and he's closed on the weekend, but he said to just drive it for a couple days to see if it evens itself out.
What would be causing this and if there's any issues that could have occurred when he was replacing the water pump that could cause the engine to do this? Also, the engine light is not on.
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Brief history: Took possession two days ago - wife's car (we've separated). In December she put the car in a ditch during a snowstorm. The car has been driven less than 100 miles since that happened. She said that she thought she'd damaged something, since it made a strange sound when driving. I figure it would make a good work transportation vehicle.
I jacked it up today to have a look and there was some plastic splash guards on the pass. side which were damaged and rubbing on the tire. I thought! Removed them and still had the noise.
It appears that the pass. front wheel took the brunt of the impact (broken splash guard and the wheel cover was cracked). I thought maybe the wheel bearing/hub may be bad, but after checking it out (pulling top to bottom, side to side), it didn't seem too bad. I checked at the point where the axle enters the transmission and there is a bit of play when pushing up on the axle. I could also hear a click inside the transmission while doing so, like a gear hitting into another.
It also looks as if the axle is pulled out about a 1/4 inch or so from the transmission seal, as the metal is shiny and not rusted as if it had been this way for a long time. ( I have pics of this but no site to host them).
my question is this - could it be the differential bearing (hope not, don't feel like cracking tranny apart)? Should I attempt to try and whack the axle back in that 1/4 inch? Has ever heard of an axle pulling out of the tranny after an accident?
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My airbag light flashes six times when I turn my car on. Then it remains on while I'm driving. I have no clue what this means.
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2011 f150 5.0... When I turn the key it cranks for about 10 secs I don't hear the fuel pump come on what should I check first before replacing the pump....
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It driving me crazy. Every 10th start of engine it cranks over and over before it fires up, no codes, changed plugs, wires, crank trigger, fuel filter, upper and lower intake gaskets, injectors, iacv. I have no clue. Runs great all time just starting issue every 10th or so start takes 10- 15 seconds to start
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My son had the starter replaced on his 97 Eclipse a couple of months ago and ever since then it seems to be more difficult to start if it has been sitting for a few hours or more. It cranks for 5 or 10 seconds before it catches. If the car is warm or has only sat for an hour or two it starts fine. The battery has been tested and is fine. The fuel filter was replaced about 30k miles ago. He also thinks he has one injector that is performing below par. It idles a tad rough. A friend said to clean or change the air filter and change the fuel filter. He had injector cleaner put in it the other day but that has not solved the starting issue at all yet. Don't know if the injector issue is causing the poor starting or not.
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when u turn the key it starts to turn over for half a sec then stops. when u stop it sounds like the starter is still spinning. battery is good. it use to do it some times but if she tried a couple times it would start. could it be where the wires go in or the whole thing? could it be somthing else besides the starter?
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Alright I thought changing a fuel filter was fool proof but I changed the fuel filter in my 2001 escape v6. awd and now for some reason it wont start right up like it used too before the filter change. It cranks for a few seconds then fires up and runs perfectly fine it sits for a few hours same issue where as before the filter change it fired up fine every time, what did I do wrong. 2001 ford escape...
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So it often just cranks for 15 seconds before it fires. I put the fuel pressure guage on it and you turn the key on but don't engage the starter it goes to 30 psi then back to 0 in a 2 second time frame. It then stays at zero. when you engage the starter pressure slowly goes up and it starts running while running its a consistent 60 psi.
I presume its the fuel regulator but why does it not go up to 60 psi and why does it just stop with the KOEO? Is it reasonable to just replace the regulator? or should I be replacing the fuel pump to at the same time? I will be doing this from under the truck since there is a lot of hard mounted equipment in the bed.
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I have a 2004 F250 Superduty with the 2003 6.0 Powerstroke inside of it. In the morning i can go out and start the truck perfectly fine starts up and runs like a champ, it will drive to any destination perfectly fine with no issues, ALTHOUGH .... once i reach where im going if i turn the truck off it will not start correctly. it cranks over and will start but sounds as if it is hydrolocking and in a matter of seconds kills itself. once it does this i have to let the truck sit for a minimum of 4-5 hours with the hood popped to allow motor to cool... as soon as its cooled completely i can start it and once again it runs perfectly fine until i turn it off again. if i leave it running at an idle it will sit and idle all day long and i can jump in and drive it fine. It just happens when it gets turned off.
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I have a 1998 chevy cavalier, 4 door, 2.2 liter SOHC, which has been running hot for a while now. readings are off the dash guage, here's the scenario. on startup from cold, the temperature begins to rise within 60 seconds, reaching what i consider normal operating temperature within three to five minutes, at approximately the "NO" in " NORMAL" on the gauge.
It reaches what has become it's usual operating temperature, at "RM" within another minute or two. If i am in stop and go traffic, the temperature will rapidly reach the final mark after the "L", but not the red zone. If I get on the highway, the temperature will reduce back to the "RM" position within one to two minutes, three to four minutes in steady traffic at lower speeds, i.e. 35 and all green lights. Thermostat has been replaced, water pump has been replaced, electric cooling fan is running correctly, radiator is free and clear of debris.
When I first got the car back in 2000, it ramped up to heat much more slowly, and hung out at "NO" in all types of traffic. in 2004 i went and picked up my car from my father's place, he had taken it to the local shop and had it given the once over, which is when this problem began showing up, and has gotten progressively worse over the years. I've gotten nowhere with other mechanics, the system is leak free, and the coolant tests good.
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I have a 98 pontiac sunfire with 130 k it died out last week while I was driving got a p0342 code I replaced the camshaft sensor still nothing I'm getting spark and I can hear the fuel pump click on.
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i have a 1997 Pontiac sunfire 2.2..i was coming home from work i heard a clicking sound coming from the motor then the car just died and it wont start back up.
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*2008 Camry LE i4 Auto Trans US built*
My son's Camry sometimes takes several cranks (4-5 seconds) to start up and then there's times when it fires right up. Typically during first start of the day or if the car has sat for several hours, it fires up instantly.
Now if the car has been driven for any length of time and parked momentarily.....then on restart, the car will crank for several seconds before firing up.
There are absolutely NO "engine" lights on and the spark plugs were changed out with OEM Denso plugs from Toyota 6k miles ago. Also the battery is less than 6 months old (holds a full charge) and Throttle body and injectors have been thoroughly cleaned.
This issue has been lingering way before plugs were replaced, throttle body and injectors were cleaned, and before battery was replaced.
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I recently purchased a 2006 Avalon XLS, 120,000 miles. About 25% of the time, it will crank for several seconds without starting. Turn off the key momentarily and try again, it fires right up every time. This tends to happen when setting for an hour or more, but can also happen after just a few minutes. My first thought is fuel pressure, but can't find a good spot to attach a pressure gauge.
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Car occasionally fails to start or will start and immediately die. Engine turns over, spark plugs are getting spark, but engine either won't catch or will start and immediately die.
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