Cavalier :: 98 Sunfire 2.2L - Car Will ONLY Start When Hook Another Battery To It
Apr 7, 2013
98 sunfire 2.2L
Basically the only way we can get my car to start is by hooking another battery up to it. Like, we plugged the tractor's battery up to it as we were going to jump it, but we didn't turn the tractor on. Then my car would start. The second we take the jumper cables off my battery it will die though. One time it did hold a charge for a minute or two before shutting off.
Also, my battery light is constantly on, even when hooked up to another battery, like the tractor one. We replaced the alternator today (got a brand new one) thinking that was the problem but still no dice. What else could it be? Could it be my battery that's less than 7-8 months old? It shows 11 volts when we put the meter on it. The new alternator is also showing that it's getting charge.
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I have 99 Sunfire 2.2L doesn't like to start right away. You turn the key and it cranks, cranks, cranks, and does that for about 5-8 seconds then start. If I shut the car off and turn it back on within an hour it seems to start pretty quick,(my only crank for a second or two).. It seems to be when it sets for a few hours it just hates to start. It always cranks strong .. i.e. it doesn't crank weak or slow like when your batter is very low.
I put a new alternator in it about 3 years ago and new battery in it last week. I do not have a system or any accessories that maybe causing any interruption. I have had this problem for year now and I have had it.
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I have a 1997 f150 that as soon as I hook up the battery, the truck tries to start itself, what would cause this?
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My sunfire is not shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. I will shift fine all the way up to 3rd and then ir revs like it is in neutral when i hit about 43 mph. it gets a little bit of a jump if i get off the gas all the way and then back on it and i can get it up to 55 but the rpm's are at 4.5. I read a few different posts that seemed like they may have had the same problem but they werent describing the way my car is acting. I went and got the fluid exchanged today and also changed the throttle position sensor on a whim because someone told me it could be the problem.
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2000 sunfire SE 2.2 L engine. Firstly, I should mention the present temperature out here is -37 C.
So here is the issue I am experiencing. The car does not idle smoothly. In fact I find it idles a lot lower then my fiances 2005 sunfire (hers idles at about 1000 RPM). My car idles around 750 RPM. and I've noticed for last couple months when just idling its not very smooth. The RPM will idle at 750 and then drop down a bit and back up again. It never has been a big problem till now.
While driving it yesterday, whenever I would let go of the accelerator the RPM would drop right down to 500RPM, and you would hear as the heater (air blowing) would completely drop down, and lights would dim significantly, and then within a split second, RPM would jump back up to 750 and blower and lights would return to normal. It almost feels as if the RPM is too low for Alternator?? That it's not able to produce enough power for electrical devices. As well, while braking if the ABS kicks in again I see this drop in RPM along with lights dim and blower airflow drop. Once again only for a split second though.
Here is the big problem. the drop in RPM and amount of disruption it causes actually had my car stall when I let go of gas and hit brake and had ABS kick in.
I am not sure if this is a problem with having the idle set too low, spark plug problem or something do with alternator?
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I have a 2001 Pontiac Sunfire with a 2.4 liter engine.
I just had the waterpump replaced and the lower coolant tube, I believe it's called, by a mechanic, which was quite a long job and a bit of a costly bill.
I went to pick the car up earlier and as soon as I started it up, the car was shaking back and forth as I was sitting in park. I immediately got out and went and told the mechanic. He looked under the hood, and the engine was very clearly shaking back and forth.
He couldn't give me an explanation as to why it would be shaking like this - and it wasn't doing it before I brought it in to have the water pump changed. It's the weekend now and he's closed on the weekend, but he said to just drive it for a couple days to see if it evens itself out.
What would be causing this and if there's any issues that could have occurred when he was replacing the water pump that could cause the engine to do this? Also, the engine light is not on.
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Brief history: Took possession two days ago - wife's car (we've separated). In December she put the car in a ditch during a snowstorm. The car has been driven less than 100 miles since that happened. She said that she thought she'd damaged something, since it made a strange sound when driving. I figure it would make a good work transportation vehicle.
I jacked it up today to have a look and there was some plastic splash guards on the pass. side which were damaged and rubbing on the tire. I thought! Removed them and still had the noise.
It appears that the pass. front wheel took the brunt of the impact (broken splash guard and the wheel cover was cracked). I thought maybe the wheel bearing/hub may be bad, but after checking it out (pulling top to bottom, side to side), it didn't seem too bad. I checked at the point where the axle enters the transmission and there is a bit of play when pushing up on the axle. I could also hear a click inside the transmission while doing so, like a gear hitting into another.
It also looks as if the axle is pulled out about a 1/4 inch or so from the transmission seal, as the metal is shiny and not rusted as if it had been this way for a long time. ( I have pics of this but no site to host them).
my question is this - could it be the differential bearing (hope not, don't feel like cracking tranny apart)? Should I attempt to try and whack the axle back in that 1/4 inch? Has ever heard of an axle pulling out of the tranny after an accident?
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My airbag light flashes six times when I turn my car on. Then it remains on while I'm driving. I have no clue what this means.
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Today my son's car just would not start. The battery is okay, the fuses look okay but car won't start. Up to now, it has run just fine.
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My car began to not start almost every other time i tried to start without being jumped and now will not start at all without being jumped. the battery won't stay charged and I bought the battery brand new 6 months ago.
1987 chevy cavalier, over 100,000 miles....
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when u turn the key it starts to turn over for half a sec then stops. when u stop it sounds like the starter is still spinning. battery is good. it use to do it some times but if she tried a couple times it would start. could it be where the wires go in or the whole thing? could it be somthing else besides the starter?
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After checking out most of the many threads about battery maintenance etc. I couldn't find anyone mentioning how to keep the trunk closed and still hook up battery maintainer....would also be interested in specific model of small safe maintainer. Maybe removing the Ski bag and running out through one of the back windows ????? I don't drive the V8 Nar but about once a week for short trips in winter especially.
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My car (Mitsubishi Lancer OZ Rally 2002) was sitting all winter because I don't have a heater. I couldn't even jump the car to start it and then had my battery tested to confirm it was no good. I went and bought a new battery and tried to hook it up. When I did, the alarm went off and all of the lights went on. Also, it wouldn't turn on. I read before to let it sit for a couple minutes and it should stop. It didn't. After diagnosing it with a few friends we thought it might be cables or the starter, but then one found out the battery was in backwards. Then, we tried to start it again and it was cranking but wouldn't turn over. There is no spark in the plugs.
My question is; could there be a short in the battery or is the solution going to be much more complicated?
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When I hook my battery cable up to my battery when negative cable my truck automatically starts turning over without the key in it what could be the problem
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I have a 98 pontiac sunfire with 130 k it died out last week while I was driving got a p0342 code I replaced the camshaft sensor still nothing I'm getting spark and I can hear the fuel pump click on.
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i have a 1997 Pontiac sunfire 2.2..i was coming home from work i heard a clicking sound coming from the motor then the car just died and it wont start back up.
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Car occasionally fails to start or will start and immediately die. Engine turns over, spark plugs are getting spark, but engine either won't catch or will start and immediately die.
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I noticed last week that when I am traveling to work, only when on I-80 at higher speeds, the battery light comes on in the Cavalier (1999). When I am on smaller roads, at slower speeds, it goes away. The light is not on the entire time I am driving fast, it comes on for a few seconds, then goes off, then comes back on, and goes back out. It doesn't appear to be affecting anything else, but want to get it fixed so I'm not stranded somewhere. Battery is not very old and alternator was rebuilt within past two years. I do get a bit of a squeal from the alternator belt when the car is running. Do I just need to readjust the alternator or could it be worse?
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Few weeks ago my battery light coming on when I am on the highway (1999 Chevy Cavalier). It wasn't coming on until I hit around 70-75 mph. It comes on and goes off. Then, several seconds later, it comes back on and goes back off. I replaced the belt and the first day driving, it didn't come back on. The next day though, it started again.
I also replaced the valve cover gasket because it was leaking oil and I thought maybe the belt was getting some oil on it. That does not appear to be the case, unless the oil is coming from somewhere else.
I have an old style voltmeter, nothing digital, and when I place the meter on the battery, it seems to have an adequate charge, but noticed something odd when I placed it on the battery while the car was idling. The thing was showing a greater voltage while running, somewhere around 14+ volts (can't remember exact reading).
But, occasionally, the needle on the voltmeter would just drop off to 0 and then suddenly come back up to around 14 volts, maybe a bit more. I don't know if it was the voltmeter not reading it right because it does not have clamps, it is just two pin shaped ends on the red and black wires. I was holding the pins onto the battery as tight and still as possible, so if it was correct, why would the voltage drop off like that?
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When I start my car it bogs down, dies, & the battery & oil light come on. I am able to start it & rev it up & then go but will die & I do the same then it goes, but recently acts as if it is dying while driving.It started a couple weeks ago while I was driving but restarted & figured it was the battery as it was old & tested badly. I bought a new battery, changed the oil, & air filter for maintenance & it ran fine for a could weeks.Now it is wise than when it started & dies more often.Do you think it could be the plug & wires or alternator?Do not feel like spending a lot of money to go through every part.1999 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L 5 speed.
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Yesterday my 2001 Z24 ran out of gas. I put approx. a 1/4 tank of gas in it and now it will not start. I can hear the fuel pump humm. Tried starting the car numerous times it sounds like it is going to turn over but it won't.
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