Cavalier :: 2001 - Extremely Rough Idle - Almost No Power?
Jul 28, 2014
A couple months ago my car (2001 Cavalier 2.4L) started running bad, it just happened one morning when I started it up. Its extremely rough idle at around 500 rpm for about 5 seconds and then it stalls out, if I rev it up with the pedal it'll stay going and you can smell gas coming out the exhaust. the car still drives but has almost no power. I changed the plugs and gaped them to spec of .050 as one of them was corroded really bad, that didn't work, so I replaced one of the ignition coil on the side of the corroded plug,I need to replace both ignition coils or the ignition control module isn't working right.
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This is my daughter in laws car. The rough idle, check engine light and trac light all happened at the same time. She was in a parking lot and drove over a speed bump when all the problems started. The check engine light flashes when driving above 25mph. It's on solid at idle. I found the EVAP purge valve plastic nipple was busted off so I replaced the assembly. I was totally surprised when this had no effect on the symptoms.
I find it strange that the car was running fine and then has all these symptoms after going over a speed bump.
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My brother-in-law brought me his 2004 Trailblazer that had an extremely rough idle and would die if ya thought about the air conditioner and all! So he had replaced the cam sensor, didn't work. He replaced the spark plugs didn't work. He replaced the fuel filter didn't work. So he asked me about it and ran across a fella talking about the CAM ACTUATOR SOLENOID and explained all about what to look for and such and low and behold new solenoid later purrs like a new one!!! It is look right above the power steering pump there is a plug in the side of the engine there with electric wires running to it.
One of the signs of being bad is oil inside that 2 wire plug just pull it off and look in it. Now to remove it you will have to take the power steering pump loose so it will move back out of the way so you can pull the solenoid out of the engine if ya get it out look on the end there are grooves running around it with little screens on them see if any are gone or coming apart, this usually sets a P0016 code which is stuff interfering with the sensors inside. If there is any oil in the plug or any screens missing then it will have to be replaced.
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This morning when I started my car the RPMs were all over the place. The engine would rev to just below 2k and then drop, as it it were gonna die and right before it did, it would rev back up. Then, when I tried to move it, it would not accelerate and would hardly move and while coasting it dies if the clutch is depressed. The car does not die when idling (albeit a very rough idle) but it does when it is moving.
It flashed a check engine for a few seconds at one point but went away and has not come back on. I am running APR Stg 1 and a Carbonio intake. I switched from 93 octane mode to stock and nothing changed.
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A week and a half ago I went out to my truck to go somewhere and I got about 2 blocks away and the truck started running really rough and had a big lack of power, so I turned around and scanned it with my code reader and the codes I got were p2271, p2196, p0303, p0012, p2197, and p2272. since then I've changed all the spark plugs, boots, swapped all the coils and injectors from a great running truck, fuel filter, and the bank 1 upstream O2 sensor.
the other thing that came to mind that could of caused the problem is that a few days before the problem started. I jump started a co-workers car and he hooked the cables up backwards on his car. Could this be the cause of the problems I'm having.
The truck is an 05 F150 FX4 5.4 with 180,000 miles on it.
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Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator but still notice smell of gas and sometimes at start up rough idle.
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I have a 2003 Chevy Cavalier that I have owned since new. It has 340,000 miles and I want to get to at least half-a-million. My wife was driving it last week and it started with a very rough idle and ran rough for 5-10 minutes until it quit running for her in the bank line. I came to get her and the car and started it by giving it some gas, but the idle was rough and jagged. Feels like it missing and gasping for air. Running on the road home at 30mph it seems almost normal, until i slow to a stop. Went to have the codes read at Advance and Auto Zone only coming up with PO440 woe the EVAP system, which has been showing for 200K miles. Have a clean K&N filter but no other modifications. I've done a lot of work myself and also have a good mechanic, but I don't want to drop if off blindly. I'm thinking maybe the Fuel Pressure Regulator or the IAC Valve. Haven't looked at the throttle body yet. Where should I go from here?
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Dad has a 01 one ton with the 7.3 and isn't real tech savvy so I'm posting for him. He is the original owner and has been complaining recently about the lack of power. Particularly the upper end. He is having to downshift way more often and where he used to not have to. And we've both noticed a very noticeable shake at idle. Not a vibration but a true shake. He changes the oil every 5000 on the dot and I've gone and changed the air and fuel filter and ran hose and see foam and royal purple injector cleaner through it with no results. Truck is all stock with 225000 on it.
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Tried starting the truck, fired ran good for a couple seconds, then ran extremely rough for a couple seconds then died.
I did some research and changed the ICP because there was oil in the connector so even if it wasnt causing my issue i wanted to replace it.
Now I have the same issue but it will actually run a little longer and not stall. I thought it was fixed so i took it for a drive, after about 3 miles it bogged down and i was able to make it home with half throttle going about 30mph. Sounds almost like its running on half the cylinders. i unplugged the ICP and it continued to run that way.
I had done the 50cent mod a few years back with the peices from ford but i know the harnesses themselves can wear through so i checked the resistance between the center pin and the two pins to the right and left for both the injector harness and they had about 3ohms.
I am leaning towards an IPR but from the reading i have done it seams like most trucks will not restart after they die. I have AE so i am going to hook it up later today, just wanted some reccomendations on what to look at.
I also remember when i shut it off the unplug the ICP to see if it would clear up the needles on the gauges did a full sweep as if i disconnected the battery which i though was weird.
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I have a 2001 VW Passat Wagon 1.8t AUG. A couple of months ago, I took it into my shop for a check engine light. The did the following work on the vehicle:
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced broken oil level sensor
Replaced outer CV boots
Resealed my transmission pan (it was leaking)
Replaced bad vacuum hoses
When I got the car back, it was idling really rough, and one time it even stalled. Just after starting it, when I hit the gas it wouldn't respond immediately and sputtered for a little while. Once I got going it was usually OK, unless I was going uphill...where it wouldn't perform as well and the engine noise kinda wavered. I also noticed that my gas mileage wasn't nearly as good as it used to be. (I never experienced any problems like this before they did this work) So I took it back to the shop and they replaced both the front and rear 02 sensors. I still had the same problem, so I took it back, and they replaced the fuel filter. Still has the same problem.
The light came on after a month, so I took it back and it was the random cylinder misfire code...and they said that didn't really know what to do about it. So I decided to take matters into my own hands. I cleaned the MAF sensor they installed (took it out and sprayed it with cleaner) nothing. I replaced the spark plugs and while doing so found that one of my ignition coils was bad, and I replaced that as well. Turns out the AutoLite plugs that a local parts store sold me are crap for this engine (actually caused misfires) so I went and got Denso double platinum plugs the next day and put those in. And finally I changed my air filter. Still having problems.
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A couple weeks ago my 01 7.3 with 265,xxx started ideling rough and stalling. I had driven in all day Sunday and the next day it started out of the blue! It would barely start idle rough and stall out no CEL. I have singed changed the icp, fuel filter and I have checked oil level. Also used fuel cleaner. Still had no luck. When I changed the icp sensor the check engine light came on and was no change I then got a ford oem camshaft sensor and my truck fired right up but still sounded like it had a little miss here and there drove it for a few weeks fine now back to the same thing it will start up and idle fine for 10 seconds then start the rough idle but won't stall out anymore just idle rough. I am stumped I can't get any codes to pull up and if oriellys uses there scan tool while the truck was running it would shut the truck off! I can't find any answers.
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My7.3 is idling rough till I pull the fuse for the fuel pump them it will smoothen out I ran a by pass switch to us my truck but the fuel mileage is bad why
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2001 f250 7.3L, 289,000 miles, changed the IPR and ICP, noticed the EBP tube was in two pieces. Would this cause the rough idle and shaking? IT started running rough and would die after a mile or two. Would have to wait 30 minutes before it would start again. That is when a buddy told me to change the IPR and ICP the ICP plug was covered in oil as well as the top of the ICP. So I changed the wiring plug as well. I originally cleaned and changed O-rings on IPR but then it wouldn't start, bought a new IPR and started but runs rough. I just started it with EBP tube removed and sensor unplugged. Idling rough when I press accelerator and RPM go above 2K it levels off pouring black smoke everywhere.
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About 2 months ago, I needed to test my engine cooling fan motor. Was using two lead test wires with alligator clips and stupidly connected the battery ends first and then the wind blew the other connection ends together creating a spark. That may or may not have anything to do with what has happened since then. About 3 days after that, I started to notice that my lights were dimming and ac fan motor was slowing when the engine was under load as in 1st or 2nd gear or going uphill.
After about a week, the ALT/BAT light came on and I replaced my alternator. The problem with that was that getting the belt back on the new ALT nearly killed me and I got several pretty bad injuries and ended up having to get it done. The old alternator tested bad so I figured my problem was solved. But ever since then, I am still getting the same problem - a voltage drop or loss of electrical power causing the lights to dim and the fan to slow - except this time is doesn't happen under load - it happens while driving and just after I have come to a stop at a light or stop sign. I have had the battery and alternator tested several times and they always show up as being fine.
I checked all the cables and connections and changed the positive battery cable bolt. I get no codes thrown. I cant just take the alternator out and change it because of what I went through with the last one - not to mention it tests OK so I can't use the warranty as long as that is the case anyway. So I am left with this troubling, annoying problem and don't know what the cause or solution is. I am guessing the list of options has to have the alternator, battery, connections, belt (though I have no sounds or evidence there is a problem with the belt - I suppose if the tensioner was damaged with the belt fiasco that it might cause such a problem). What to do? It is the biggest problem at night because my headlights are affected.
2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2
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My sons 1998 SL1 Saturn 163,000 miles on it runs extremely rough when you start it seems like it is running on 3 cylinders. However after 10 seconds of reving the engine up runs fine. Once it warms up runs and idles fine all day but after you shut it off it exhibits the same hard starting. It has new plugs and ignition wires on it. I'm thinking a cracked coil that as it warms up starts to work properly.
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The last few days I've noticed an extremely rough ride when in Normal Mode. In sport + mode I noticed a bit of a smoother ride where the bumps weren't as harsh. Which is the complete opposite of what's supposed to happen. My tire pressure is 36 and reaches 39-40 when hot. No clue why this is happening, should I be worried ? Should I lower the tire pressure a little maybe to much air is causing the harsh ride? Or should I reset the battery because my car is stuck in sport + mode when it should be normal.
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2001 windstar rough idle at warm up, start drive the van with cold engine for about 3-4 ml s, come to a light, stop, van starts rough idling, if I don't put it in neutral and hit the gas it will die ... after that , no problem .
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Idles ok in park and neutral. Gets worse while in gear. Car has high miles around 160.000. Fuel injection flush? Fuel Filter? Vacuum leak, and where to look first? No check engine light, no misfire codes just a rough idle when in gear.
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I have 2005 elantra ve and I got rough idle stop for a while.
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My 2001 Santa Fe is having some major issues with rough idling, and there is a fairly significant oil leak. The check engine light is not on. In the past year it has had a new fuel pump, fuel filter, valve gasket covers, spark plugs, spark plug cables, and transmission.
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I replaced the thermostat and coolant now the car acts like it's running on 4 cylinders. It's a 1992 3.1. The car ran fine before I just can't figure out what I did. Its real hard starting ,runs extremely rough. And the cooling fans are coming on when cold. Disconnected the battery to to reset the computer. pulled the codes got 45 (rich).
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