Cavalier :: 2001 - Car Overheats Only When Idles - Fan Relay Switch?
Mar 17, 2008
my 2001 cavalier overheats only when it idles, overheats in 3 to 5 minutes & the ac blows hot. As soon as you get moving again the car runs at normal temp and the ac blows ice cold. We changed the thermostat, coolant and belts, i'm not loosing any coolant. Looks like the fans are not coming on, I can not find a location for a fan relay switch, thought maybe we should change that before changing out the fans..Is there a relay switch?
View 8 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier that recently is having a/c and engine problems.One problem is that when the a/c is on the car will idle very badly- possibly varying 300-400 RPM. It will do this until the air is turned off or it is given more gas.The second problem is when trying to keep the car at a constant speed with the a/c on the car will vary 200-300 RPM until the a/c is turned off or it is given more gas.The last problem is when the a/c is on and no more gas is given to the car the a/c will start to blow out hot air. However, when gas is given to the car (probably has to be at about 1500 RPM) the a/c will blow out cold air. The car is a 2.2L 4 cylinder. The car has had the check engine light on in the pass but I had cleared it (it was the o2 sensor) several times. But recently it has not been coming back on. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, considering it only happens with the a/c on, but I thought that I would mention it. The car runs fine without the a/c on (idles well and drives good at constant speeds).
View 7 Replies
was wondering when I hook my fog lights up to my 03 cavalier do I need to install a switch or do they come on automatically with the headlights.
View 11 Replies
It looks like the door jamb switch no longer pops open so I am wondering how in the world do I replace it? Someone suggested grabbing pliers and just pulling on it till the tabs break off and it comes out. Is this the correct way? This is a 2004 Chevy Cavalier and some of the symptoms of my problems include the radio not turning off when you open the door after getting out of the car. Nor do the dome lights come on when I open the door to get in.
View 7 Replies
So do I need a fuse or something worse ?
View 1 Replies
So I've found a lot of guides around here on how to install an amp/sub in my gti (golf) but I'm having some trouble understanding how to run the power from the battery to the amp without the amp constantly being turned on and draining my battery.
Currently, i have everything but the power itself setup and ready to go, i have my 4 gauge power cable running from the engine bay through the firewall and to the back of my car where the amp will be. The amp came with a fuse to put near the battery, but I think I would need some sort of on/off switch to actually kill the power to the amp. I read that this is called a relay switch or something, but exactly how to install this into my current setup.
View 10 Replies
So today i start my car and the idle was funny for a few seconds, checked to make sure there were no vacuum leaks, everything seemed fine. Then im sitting with the car in park waiting for someone and I feel the funny idle again. It stops then i notice only the light in the window switch blinks on and off about 2 times then the funny idle again.....normal for a minute blinkity blink funny idle....see a pattern. I noticed for the past 2 days the auto down for the pass. window doesnt work either. I wonder if they're related. It hasn't happened again but i haven't drove it much since that happened. Im going out now so when i get back ill update. Ill scan it on monday to see if it threw any codes.
View 6 Replies
I need to know where is the radiator fan relay switch located on a 2000 jeep grand cherokee laredo. My check gauges light comes on. The temp gauge is on 260. I had it checked out. My radiator cooling fan isn't running.
View 14 Replies
My 2001 Subaru Outback H6-3.0 is at 215k miles (I bought it for $4k at 201k miles). It overheats only when I drive for a while on a hot day. I was trying to get to Yosemite with my whole family in the car, and rather than do the intelligent thing and go back home and get it repaired, I kept going, stopping when the gauge started going past the middle to let it cool down and replace any water it was missing (after the engine cooled, of course). Amazingly, we managed to use the car almost normally during the trip, as long as we did short-ish trips and kept some water in the car. Having to pull over randomly isn't so bad when you are in Yosemite anyway.
There was a mechanic shop in the little town we stayed in, but they weren't equipped to to do a head gasket job in the little time we were going to be up there, and we needed the car to get around anyway. So I tried putting some of that coolant leak repair gunk in there and it seemed to work. We made it the hundreds of miles home, no problem (but it was downhill, where the trip up there was uphill). Problem solved, right?
Well, about a year later of only driving the thing about 50 miles in any given run, and not terribly hot weather, we decide to go a few hundred miles south. Sure enough, it was a hot day and after about 60 miles I saw the temp gauge go past mid and immediately pulled over. After it cooled a bit, I drove it (in two hops, because it started heating up again quickly) to a shop. They tested it and sure enough it's a head gasket leak. They said it'd be $2500 to fix it.
So far this car has been pretty good to me otherwise. Numerous times, I've taken it up 300+ miles into the snow and ice covered roads to go skiing and LOVE not having to put chains on. I am guessing that all the cold air up there kept it from overheating while I was pushing it pretty hard up some steep inclines without issue. It seems like there is a temperature threshold beyond which it starts to quickly overheat, and below witch, the gasket is holding fine, or something along those lines.
So, given that I like this car, is it worth another $2500 to get her back on the road? Should I just try the leak stopping junk again? Should I have been using "SUBARU cooling system conditioner" this whole time, even though it's not one of the supposed head-gasket-problem engines? Should I just drive it until it finally overheats to death? It's probably still fine to drive in moderate to cool temperatures (winter is coming), but I haven't driven it since the leaking head gasket diagnosis. I don't know if I did permanent damage to it that day, or if it's just its usual self still. It didn't get into the red, heat-wise.
View 14 Replies
Honda civic ex 2001 w/ 202k miles.... 1 month ago was driving on highway, the a/c started going, then I began losing power, temp went hot, pulled over steaming hood, wouldn't take much water.
Mechanic did: replace thermostat, therm gasket, new radiator fan temp switch, pressure test.
Ran fine for 2 weeks, then heat began to rise again & overheated. Each time it overheated the top small hose on radiator popped off(like a 1/2 in. hose). Back to mechanic: did pressure test, did a full cooling system test all were great...Only thing he found was a small radiator crack....thought it just took a week to lose coolant. Replaced radiator/ecu temp sending unit/refill and pressure test.
1 week later, temp spikes to hot, so I bring it back....he tested pressure/flow no leaks again...he can't figure it out.One note: for about the past 3months, right after starting, I would come to my first or second stop, then accelerate and hear a squeal that lasts like 5 seconds or so...this happened intermittently for about 3 months, and is still happening(I can drive very short distances now). A friend thought the issue was the belt that controlled the a/c and 2 other things
View 5 Replies
In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
View 9 Replies
Fluctuating temperature gauge? In the past few weeks I have noticed that my temp gauge goes over the normal temp line but the car never actually overheats. This doesn't happen all the time and only every once in a while. Today however, the gauge went very high and I immediately put the heat on high and it slowly dropped to normal again.
I had a water pump replaced several years ago and last year had the thermostat replaced as well. The only thing I have had done recently was an oil change at one of those convenience stations. During the check-point, I was asked if I wanted the filter changed that filters the air coming into the car. I said no, but now wondering if they actually disconnected something when checking for this. The reason I'm bringing this up is because sometimes I don't get hot air when the heat is on or cold air when the a/c is on.
After reading online more about this, I read that a faulty Temperature Sensor can give a false reading. Just added some water to the radiator but not much...so no leaks that I can see.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2001 chevy cavalier, the base 2.2 model with a 5 speed manual transmission.
I can't shift into 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear. On occasion I can get into 1st but it pops out almost instantly. I have the shift boot up, it looks like the shifter won't go far enough to click into gear for the top 3 gears.
2nd and 4th don't have any issues, reverse works as well though can sometimes be more difficult than usual.
View 1 Replies
My daughter says that the AC on her 2001 Chevy Cavalier cuts off when she is idling.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2001 cavalier with the service light on. i hooked up my scanner but there are no codes. My daughter recently wrecked it and knocked out the passenger side headlight and turn signal. Will the service light come on if a bulb is out?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier. I've been getting a pulsing vibration which feels like the left front. It starts at about 40mph and gets worse the faster I go. The vibration completely goes away with the slightest left turn on the freeway. It vibrates on acceleration and deceleration, in neutral and in gear (5spd manual). I've currently replaced the front struts, strut mounts, pads and rotors, left front wheel bearing, tie rod ends, had the front end aligned and the tires balanced.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2001 Pontiac Sunfire with a 2.4 liter engine.
I just had the waterpump replaced and the lower coolant tube, I believe it's called, by a mechanic, which was quite a long job and a bit of a costly bill.
I went to pick the car up earlier and as soon as I started it up, the car was shaking back and forth as I was sitting in park. I immediately got out and went and told the mechanic. He looked under the hood, and the engine was very clearly shaking back and forth.
He couldn't give me an explanation as to why it would be shaking like this - and it wasn't doing it before I brought it in to have the water pump changed. It's the weekend now and he's closed on the weekend, but he said to just drive it for a couple days to see if it evens itself out.
What would be causing this and if there's any issues that could have occurred when he was replacing the water pump that could cause the engine to do this? Also, the engine light is not on.
View 3 Replies
A couple months ago my car (2001 Cavalier 2.4L) started running bad, it just happened one morning when I started it up. Its extremely rough idle at around 500 rpm for about 5 seconds and then it stalls out, if I rev it up with the pedal it'll stay going and you can smell gas coming out the exhaust. the car still drives but has almost no power. I changed the plugs and gaped them to spec of .050 as one of them was corroded really bad, that didn't work, so I replaced one of the ignition coil on the side of the corroded plug,I need to replace both ignition coils or the ignition control module isn't working right.
View 4 Replies
Replaced the clutch on my son's 01 Cavalier 4 cyl. Replaced Clutch as it was slipping, and replaced hydraulic throw out bearing/slave cylinder at same time. New throw out bearing failed after only 500 miles or so, seal broken, started grinding on down shift and coasting (deceleration) followed by leak and no pedal. Replaced with new Slave Cylinder and Throw out bearing, the new one is starting to show same grinding noise on shifting and deceleration. What could cause this? Used the spline alignment tool to adjust the plate on center the right way. Could the pressure plate springs be off center? The flywheel was purple could it be warped and throwing the pressure plate springs off center thereby causing them to rub against the I.D. of the Throw Out Bearing slave cylinder seal?
View 14 Replies
It's a 2001 Chevy cavalier. The key is stuck and won't turn the car off. Already have tried shaking the wheel and wd-40. The wipers won't work and the gauges won't turn on until I jiggle the key.
View 4 Replies
This is my daughter in laws car. The rough idle, check engine light and trac light all happened at the same time. She was in a parking lot and drove over a speed bump when all the problems started. The check engine light flashes when driving above 25mph. It's on solid at idle. I found the EVAP purge valve plastic nipple was busted off so I replaced the assembly. I was totally surprised when this had no effect on the symptoms.
I find it strange that the car was running fine and then has all these symptoms after going over a speed bump.
View 4 Replies
