I have a 98 cavelier 2.4L..When engine is cold and the colder the outside temp is, the engine runs great with lots of power. but as temperatures rise, there is a huge loss in power. It feels like the computer is retarding the timing. Is there an outside air temp sensor to close to the rad??
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 chevy cavalier, 4 door, 2.2 liter SOHC, which has been running hot for a while now. readings are off the dash guage, here's the scenario. on startup from cold, the temperature begins to rise within 60 seconds, reaching what i consider normal operating temperature within three to five minutes, at approximately the "NO" in " NORMAL" on the gauge.
It reaches what has become it's usual operating temperature, at "RM" within another minute or two. If i am in stop and go traffic, the temperature will rapidly reach the final mark after the "L", but not the red zone. If I get on the highway, the temperature will reduce back to the "RM" position within one to two minutes, three to four minutes in steady traffic at lower speeds, i.e. 35 and all green lights. Thermostat has been replaced, water pump has been replaced, electric cooling fan is running correctly, radiator is free and clear of debris.
When I first got the car back in 2000, it ramped up to heat much more slowly, and hung out at "NO" in all types of traffic. in 2004 i went and picked up my car from my father's place, he had taken it to the local shop and had it given the once over, which is when this problem began showing up, and has gotten progressively worse over the years. I've gotten nowhere with other mechanics, the system is leak free, and the coolant tests good.
My Legacy sedan is not behaving well. On more than one occasion, when pressing on the accelerator, the rpms do not rise. I put it in park and try to press gas pedal, nothing. Turn the car off and let rest for a few minutes, then start it up again, and it's fine.....
View 3 RepliesAbout 2 months ago, I needed to test my engine cooling fan motor. Was using two lead test wires with alligator clips and stupidly connected the battery ends first and then the wind blew the other connection ends together creating a spark. That may or may not have anything to do with what has happened since then. About 3 days after that, I started to notice that my lights were dimming and ac fan motor was slowing when the engine was under load as in 1st or 2nd gear or going uphill.
After about a week, the ALT/BAT light came on and I replaced my alternator. The problem with that was that getting the belt back on the new ALT nearly killed me and I got several pretty bad injuries and ended up having to get it done. The old alternator tested bad so I figured my problem was solved. But ever since then, I am still getting the same problem - a voltage drop or loss of electrical power causing the lights to dim and the fan to slow - except this time is doesn't happen under load - it happens while driving and just after I have come to a stop at a light or stop sign. I have had the battery and alternator tested several times and they always show up as being fine.
I checked all the cables and connections and changed the positive battery cable bolt. I get no codes thrown. I cant just take the alternator out and change it because of what I went through with the last one - not to mention it tests OK so I can't use the warranty as long as that is the case anyway. So I am left with this troubling, annoying problem and don't know what the cause or solution is. I am guessing the list of options has to have the alternator, battery, connections, belt (though I have no sounds or evidence there is a problem with the belt - I suppose if the tensioner was damaged with the belt fiasco that it might cause such a problem). What to do? It is the biggest problem at night because my headlights are affected.
2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2
Resurrecting my 940 TD after it's been sitting for a year and the temperature needle now doesn't rise as the engine warms up. Is there any trouble with sensors on these or should i be concerned about something else? It was working when I stopped using the car.
View 3 RepliesAs if puttin on all new 4 tires and having to buy a new wheel because one was cracked didn't cost me enough. Car was idling for a good 30minutes or more (arguing with the gf) and out of no where I noticed the exhaust note change and the temperature rise. I shut if off before it even reached the red mark. Yes I checked the cooling fan and its working when the engine is warmed up. Was it possible some wires may have come loose from hitting a pot hole ( main roads) and it caused it to overheat? Car is running fine and I will get it in the shop next week to have it looked at
Could it have caused any damage to the engine even though I was able to stop it quick and let it cool down?
I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t that overheated on me out of no where i have read some post and couldn't really find what i need it never overheated on me before and this was the first time and when ever i open the reservoir where you put in coolant everything spills out its my first time owning a volkswagen, it happens as soon as i start driving like 30 secs and temperature starts to rise.
View 3 RepliesOne of the '92 Pontiac Trans Sports (3.1L V6 engine) had developed a huge thirst - the fuel consumption had doubled along with a serious loss of power. All ignition components - distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires and oxygen sensor are new ACDelco's.
ECM is not throwing-up any fault codes but we suspect a vacuum leak since this engine runs better with the air intake covered-up almost completely.
Is there any way to trace and fix this kind of issue? Any vacuum diagram for this car - I couldn't seem to find it in the GM Service Manual... How would you suggest we proceed?
Chasing a problem for sometime now with my early 99 F350 auto 7.3 w/ 134K. This problem seems to only happen when the temperature outside is lower than 20 degrees.
When approaching a hill the truck will lose top end power (2000 RPM and greater) and shudder. Basically, start at 65 and you reach the top and 45. My gauges are all normal, no codes are present, no leaks or other abnormal sounds.
Fuel pressure is good (even under load), passed buzz test, passed CCT test. Is this possibly just the nature of the beast (being cold)? Seems to go away after 30 minutes or more of driving. In the last month, we have:
-changed all fluids and filters, except in tank filters
-sensors replaced: map, ebpv (and tube), IAT, and intake spyder sensor
-boost leak checked
I have recently purchased a 1998 Toyota Camry 4 cyl. I had to replace the water pump as it was leaking coolant, I also changed the front and rear brakes and also the front rotors. As I was driving it after the brake change I noticed that I would seem to lose power, kind of like it wasn't getting any fuel or something. My rpms would go down, but most of the time would quickly rise again when I pushed on the gas.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Caviler. Somewhat recently the car has been not staying at a constant temperature. It will rise above the middle (where it would always just stay at until recently) a notch and then go down a notch below the middle. I have never replaced the thermostat and I have had it around 8 years and the car has around 60,000 miles. Did replacing the thermostat fix them?
View 7 RepliesTHE FREQUENCY: This is a condition that has become progressively worse over the last six months. Initially it occurred once a week and now it is happening almost every day, lasts longer and is more acute.
THE SYMPTOMS: Initially and randomly, while driving at any speed, the car would begin to hesitate as if it might stall but did not- The hesitation was much like a shudder or power loss. At this time the check engine light would blink and stay on for a couple of days. This whole event would last less than a minute and the car would return to normal until the next one.
Now, six months later, it is occurring almost every day. At startup, at low speeds, at stop lights.... A LOT!
WHAT HAS BEEN DONE SO FAR: After frequent and unsuccessful visits to the Volvo Dealer all the plugs, the wires, the cap, and the rotor have been replaced with no luck.
The dealer says the code indicates a misfire on the #3 cylinder.
This has happened before on my 98 ranger 2.5. You can drive it 10,000 miles without any issue and then all of a sudden you take off and there's no power but it quickly returns. Within the last year I've changed fuel pump assembly, fuel filter, injectors, cool packs, and plugs. Is it mass air flow? It seemed to happen a lot more after I cleaned it. My scan tool is amateur but it has a maf reading in lbs. What should it be while driving? Fuel pressure is always between 65-72 when I check it within specs according to my book.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
What would cause my truck to have a long turnover start, a really rough idle, and a loss of power after idling at a stop light for about a minute?
This problem gets worse as the truck warms up. It feels as if I'm not getting power from all 6 cylinders but this goes away after about 20 feet of acceleration. The truck has never not started. It just has to turn over for about 5 to 10 seconds before it fires up. I changed the spark plugs and wires thinking it was that and then i tried the fuel filter and it wasn't that either.
I recently had the high and low pressure tubes on my power steering fail causing a total loss of fluid. After about a week of living with manual steering, I brought it in and had the tubing replaced. Everything worked fine, though the steering felt a bit sloppy to me. Today, on my way home from a 100 mile trip, the car decided that turning left just wasn't something it wanted to do.
So to turn left, I would have to back up and turn the wheels to the right. Not exactly an efficient way to drive in traffic. Do I try to get the car back into my mechanics place to see if he can fix it for a reasonable amount, or should just bite the bullet and look for a newer car? BTW when I had brought the car in for the tubing replacement, they showed me where the bracket holding the strut on the left had begun to crack, probably from driving without the power steering. 1998 Malibu LS ....
Ok I've been plagued with this very random misfire/power loss/hesitation problem going on a couple of months. You could drive the truck anywhere from 50-300 miles without having an encounter of this problem. It seems to do it now mostly on contiguous long trips over like 30 miles. It one time threw up a P1131 code which quickly went away on it's own. This is a list of stuff that has been recently changed: plugs, wires, coil packs, air filter, pcv valve, fuel injectors, tps, idle air valve, MAF cleaned, fuel filter, and egr valve.
I sprayed with brake cleaner for vacuum leaks around the intake tonight after driving a continuous 50 mile round trip it messed a few times on the way back. When I sprayed the EGR valve mounting area it idled rough when it was hit with brake clean and idled up. So there's a leak there. Or is it stuck? It will be driving normal and usually when you come to a stop the engine will start missing really bad and then when you take off there's no power at all. You keep your foot on the gas and eventually it will feel like all the power is just turned on.
If it does it while you're driving highway speeds it will feel like you've lost a cylinder but it's not as dramatic as when you come to a stop and it starts missing. I can't be 100% but I don't think the EGR wasn't leaking before I replaced it and it was still doing the same thing. I'm wondering why the Check Engine Light won't pick up an obvious misfire when you can you actually feel it. And why if it was the vacuum leak would it only start doing it after many miles of driving?
I have a 98 Cavalier and my problems is that both of my low beams stopped working at the same time. My high beam and day light still work...
View 14 RepliesMy sister has a 98 chevy cavalier and it is sputtering i changed the fuel filter but that did not work.
View 6 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 1998 Cheve Cavalier that recently on the way to work completly blow out the number 3 spark plug. It was completly gone and poofs of air now come out of it's place?
View 1 RepliesSo I have a '98 cavalier with the 2.2l and 4sp auto. Anyway, it runs great when dry conditions, but when its wet from rain or any moisture it runs terrible. It stalls and stumbles and the cab fills with a gas odor. I changed the coil packs and plugs and wires and it still does it. I have a P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected and a P0200 injector circuit problem. I'm having a hard time believing this because it runs fine most of the time. Is there something else I can look at that is feeding this problem? Is this a common ocurrance?
View 4 Replies