Cavalier :: 1997 / 2.2 Overheating While Driving After 30 Minutes Or So At City Speeds
Oct 6, 2006
I am having overheating problems with my car, I had the car in the shop where they replaced the headgasket, got the head machined, got the radiator rodded out, checked the water pump, replaced the thermostat tried three different ones. The only way they could get it to run without overheating after doing all of this was to run it without a thermostat. I ran it that way for a couple of months, but it is getting colder where I live so I put a new thermostat back in it, now I am having the same problems, it runs somewhat OK while driving, it does not heat up right away maybe after 30 mins or so at city speeds, however at lower speeds it starts to heat up. If i put it in neutral and increase the RPM's the temp gauge will drop down.
After stopping I can feel the hose coming out of the thermostat housing to the radiator and the hose is cool, so for whatever reason the thermostat is not opening, I drilled an 1/8" hole in the thermostat to let any air through that may be in the system. When I refilled the system I opened the bleeder screw that is above the exhaust manifold until antifreeze came out of it then I closed it and filled the rest of the way.
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I have a 92 Ford Taurus that runs warm, can overheat, especially in city driving. When driving at faster speeds with less stopping does not give any trouble. The radiator is full. I tried putting a new thermostat in and it overheat just the same. I took it out and it would run warm but not overheat. I flushed out the tranny. There are not leaks. Seems like water will come out to easy from the radiator cap. Thinking maybe it is blocked up some inside the engine. Can a water pump be kicking in and out at lower RPM's
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2000 Expedition. If speeds are under 40 mph and the air temp is above 85, my AC does not seem to work well. On the highway, it seems to work very well. Recently replaced with no change in performance:
Fan clutch
Water pump
Radiator
I've also degreased and hosed out the condenser. The AC system has been checked (by a friend with a set of gauges- but is not a professional) and a small amount of refrigerant was added. Still no improvement. Any obvious other things to check?
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My 2004 v8 with 100,000 miles is running hot. The fluids are all topped off. When I start it up she warms up normally in around 5-10 minutes and the water is 200 but as the oil temp comes up the water goes up as well. After 15 minutes of driving the oil is at 200-220 and the water is 230-245. the fans are coming on but so far no lights or warnings.
Is this the sign of emanate water pump failure? I think the thermostat is OK because for the first 5-10 minutes it runs normally. Putting the heater on get the temp down a little. I am thinking I should drive my truck and order the timing belt, water pump kit! Is it possible that the oil pump or system isn't functioning properly?
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I have a 850 volvo 96 glt with overheating issue. I have replaced everything but still overheating. It only does it when I have been driving for about 15 to 20 mins. It goes just above 3/4 hot but not in to the red before it drops back down to norm temp (half way) it goes up and drops back down during driving and when i stop and turn her off i notice the filler tank bubbling even when the temp sensor is at half way (norm temp). Then with her cold and the lid of the filler tank, I start the car an can see bubbles coming up for the first 5min of warm up?
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I have a manual 2000 Honda civic that is acting up. When I drive it after about 15mins it gets really hot. Then right before I pull over it starts to cool off if I have the heat pumping . It also seem to over heat when ever I am sitting idle . I replaced the radiator and thermostat but I'm still having the problem.
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'01 F150 XLT 5.4L EFI 207,000 miles
I've had this truck since '03 @ 45,000 mi and have loved it ever since. It hasn't failed me yet, until now. Living in TX with no A/C is the pits,
He first replaced the large hose assembly (with a non Motorcraft part) due to a pinhole then recharged the system. It cooled great until the pressure pop off valve (or whatever it's called) blew all the freon out.
His first suspicion was the fan clutch, which was replaced with a motorcraft fan clutch. Next he used his a/c machine to evacuate/flush/recharge the system - problem persisted. Lastly, he cleaned the radiator and condenser fins and recharged again. The system still overheated and lost the freon.
While the freon is in the system it cools like never before but after driving it, parking for a while, then re-starting it overheats within minutes.
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I have a 2001 Subaru Outback Limited with 135K miles on it. In the last year, I had two complete head jobs (the second because the new water pump failed while on the highway). In addition, I have had multiple water pumps, lots of thermostats and a new radiator installed. The last thermostat is an OEM. The car had been running fine for about a month and now overheats after about 30-40 minutes of combined, but mostly highway driving. At first, the gauge would rise to about 3/4 and then drop after about ten seconds, but now it goes to almost red and drops to 3/4. If I blast the heat, it will drop pretty fast. My mechanic told me that while diagnosing an earlier overheat issue (just before the good period), he noticed that the gauge would rise, but the computer temp would remain stable. He tried a new sensor, but said it made no difference, so he returned it. What is left to replace?
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1999 F150, 6 cyl. 4.2L, 233,000 miles. My temp gauge went way high on the interstate so I assumed I had a bad thermostat. replaced it with a genuine Ford themostat, added coolant and here's where I'm at.
1. Let it idle up to operating temp. When it was warm, the heater was blowing cold air.
2. Thermostat opened up, top radiator hose was hot and full of coolant, still no heat in cab.
3. Took it for a ride on the hwy. Heat started to work in cab, temp gauge went way up. I slowed down and went home down a side road. Temp gauge went back to normal and stayed there. Only driving about 30 mph.
I don't get why I'm overheating at 60mph. My best guess is I have some sort of obstruction in the cooling system.
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I have a '99 Chevy 2500 diesel truck. After driving it at highway speeds for more than 20 minutes and turning it off, it won't restart. The problem seems to be in the battery cable and is definitely heat-related. In cold weather or after a fairly short drive, all it takes is popping the hood to cool off the engine compartment, and waiting. If the engine and/or the weather is too hot, that can take an hour. Then it starts just fine. I've cleaned the terminals and made sure the connections are tight. Two mechanics have looked at it and were stumped.
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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Have a 1997 Subaru Legacy 2.2 liter. Having stalling issues after 20-25 minutes of driving. Will restart but gets shorter and ashorter intervals between stalls and then stalls right after start every time until in has sat a while and cools down. Changer ECU.
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2000 F-150 Triton V-8, Super Cab, 2WD, ~170,000 miles, 4-wheel ABS (one speed sensor on each front wheel and one on the rear differential). The ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving. It seems to take a little bit longer for the light to come on when the weather is colder.
I used a Cen-Tech 60794 OBD II/CAN with ABS scan tool with key on, engine off, and the below sequence. No codes were detected. I then left the scanner connected but powered off and drove around until the ABS light came on. Pulled into a parking lot with engine running, powered up the scan tool and went through the following menu choices:
Diagnostics
ABS
Area - USA vehicles
Model - Ford
Although the tool's instruction manual has several more items that may or may not be required (VIN digits, model year, etc), the next thing I saw is a message indicating the scanner is linking with the vehicle computer. During that time the ABS light went out. Next on the scan tool display my choice was to read codes or erase codes. I selected "Read codes" and the display said there are no codes in the module.
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Just like the title says, getting crappy mileage. all my driving is city driving and on weekends i go on the highway for about 3 miles to get to work, i4 2013 camry getting 19.8 mpg, does that sound right for just city driving? Car has 6643 miles on it bought it in May 27th.
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I'm driving a 2000 F150 with the Triton V8 5.4L.
My check engine light came on the other night while heading home. I went to Auto Zone and had them scan it and it came back with the P0125 error code.
My guess is that the thermostat is faulty because my heater is blowing lukewarm air after about 20-30 minutes of normal driving and I would expect the air to be much warmer so I'm thinking that the engine is not getting up to normal operating temperature.
I understand that this can be bad for fuel economy and such, but my question is it safe to drive?
I had planned on hunting up in the hills tomorrow all day and just want to know if this could cause any damage?
Here's a picture of what my cluster looks like after running for about 30 minutes.
Cluster after 30 minutes of driving.
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I'm at 9600 miles now and i noticed my gas mileage started going up---the last two fill ups with the same daily route:
23.9 mpg! in mixed highway and city driving! average speed 25-35mph for a typical trip!
Now, granted I've been driving gently...but that brought me to another exiting tid bit:
If I don't want to drive spiritedly (because I'm on the phone--hands free of course---or because I'm thinking about work)....this car is so smooth and comfortable....
I had a dodge charger before and that boat wasn't as comfortable nor as agile---by a ton! And then today....it's raining in fort worth....but that's no problem...no spinning tires at lights....amazingly better traction with AWD compared with my 1.8t!
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So I have heard that, it is only good to turn on the ECO mode when you are driving in the city or town. When you drive onto highway, you should turn ECO off. Any good explanation of what is the best method of using the ECO button?
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My 03 2.7 has suddenly lost around 4 MPG in city driving. Haven't taken it out on the highway to know where that is at. Used to get around 20/21 and now I'm around 16/17. Mileage is at 97k now and has new spark plugs and brakes done recently. I know the brakes are not dragging. All the fluids are fairly new and the car drives the same as before, I can't feel a difference in performance. Just lower gas mileage. I haven't changed out the T-stat yet, but the temp gauge in car reads the same as always. I checked the car with a code checker and there are no pending codes. I know this is the age where the oxygen sensors could start to go bad and have never replaced them.
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My 2005 Honda Accord randomly loses all power during city driving (25 MPH or less and sometimes while approaching a stop). The dashboard, radio, etc. go black, engine stops, and power steering and locks go out. The first couple times, it restarted immediately and drove fine. The past couple times, it did not restart right away.
After waiting a bit and taking the key out of the ignition, we were able to turn on the interior lights, A/C, and radio, and then the car started fine. The car was involved in a frontal collision a few weeks prior to all of this starting. The driver's headlight was damaged, and at least one fuse had to be replaced. We have taken it to the dealer several times. They ran diagnostic tests and drove it around, trying to duplicate the problem -- without success.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier with 113k miles. It is having problems starting. If it's sat for a while 10-15 minutes it's starting rough or in most cases needing me to press the gas pedal to get it started. I have replaced the fuel filter and used some fuel system cleaner to what appears no avail. I can hear the fuel pump turn on at startup, so not sure if that's the culprit.
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My 1994 chevy cavalier is overheating mainly on hot days and when I work the engine hard. My coolant level hasn't dropped in a long time and the coolant cap is usually dry. I replaced the thermostat and checked the radiator hoses. They seem to be fine. My engine is leaking coolant.
(See photo) : IMG_2308.JPG3024x4032 2.61 MB
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