Cavalier :: 1996 Car Overheated Now Won't Start - Radiator Leaking
Sep 3, 2015
My radiator was leaking and I accidentally boiled it dry. I put water back into the cooling system, but now my car won't start. Anything I can check to try and get it to run before I get it towed it to a mechanic?
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I start the car, with AC on, radiator fan starts and within a few minutes the engine radiator fan stops working, idles rough since the AC compressor pump keeps cycling on and off and engine starts to overheat. After shutting down I check the engine cooling fan fuse and it sure enough is blown.
How do I determine as to where the short is? Is the short in the wiring somewhere or can the actual motor short out?
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My 1996 Chevrolet cavalier will not start. It sat for two months while I looked for a neutral safety switch. New switch is in and brand new battery, Car does turn over. It gets close but no luck. I put new gas in. I really need to get this running before the snow flies.
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I have a 1996 chevy cavalier 4-door. It is a 2.2 auto. I changed the passenger side cv shaft and now it won't start. I have lights it won't turn over. I put a new battery in no luck.
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I replaced water pump with timing belt and thermostat. Took a test drive and engine still overheats. Radiater fan kicks in when it's hot. The upper hose from radiator to engine is very hot, only allows me to touch for 1 sec. But, the lower hose is warm, I can leave my fingers over it 10 sec or more. What is the problem? do I have a restricted radiator? Do I need a new one or I can flush and clean it. I posted a thread earlier regarding gunk in cooling system. I change coolant annually but it alway get brownish once it gets circulated around. The antifreeze leaked out from the car at junk yard where I removed the thermostat housing, looks much better than mine.
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I drove an Avante 09. Recently, my car was breakdown due to engine overheated, as radiator coolant is dry out and noticed there is a hole in in the pipe and hence cause leakage in the system. As the breakdown was happened in johor bahru, I have no choice but towed my car to hyundai msia dealer workshop in JB. However, after they check, they refuse to repair it due to the reason they do not have the spare parts, as my version is 1600cc and msia version is 2000cc.
Thereafter, I towed my car to the workshop in JB, recommend by my friend in JB. After they checking, the said my engine block is made of aluminum, very easy get out of shape when overheated. They say by changing the headset parts will not completely solved the problem, said to completely solve the issue must changed the engine block. To me, by changing the engine block equivalent changing the whole engine, am i correct?
Any bro here facing engine overheated due to dry out of coolant? Can cause such a big issue? In fact I am a bit doubt on their diagnosis. I don't really think the overheat will cause the engine block damage.
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The two Radiator fans are always running even at start up on a cold day. I have not had time to investigate as yet but I am assuming it is the temperature sensor located near the thermostat or a relay. No CEL on. What it likely is and how to approach the trouble shooting?
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Do I buy an engine or sell the car for parts? My son’s car overheated while driving down the hwy due to a radiator leak. After a first and second opinion, two separate mechanics told me the engine has no compression so basically was shot. The car was in good shape with 102k miles and everything worked. Internet surfing has some used engines with 80-100k miles from $800-$1200, some guaranteed some not. Is it better to rebuild the original engine or buy another used one? Labor cost on top of an engine wont be cheap. Are other parts under the hood expected to be replaced too as a result of the engine overheating?
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96 chevy blazer overheated did compression test number 3 was low on compression. And number 3 misfire.
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So today my 97 f150, 2wd 5.4L automatic has started giving me some troubles. The truck has 291k miles on it, i bought it with 260k miles on it. About a week ago the truck overheated due to a busted radiator side tank, it was promptly replaced the next day and i have had no problems with it since, till today. Sometimes when you start it it will stumble alive like its out of gas, give it a sec and it settles down. When you get going, its a little down on power, i know it has 291k miles on it but it pulled hard. Its OK till you get to about 35-40, when it just stops accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it barely went above 40, if you ease into it slowly it will slowly accelerate till about 45, drop down to 40 and then go like normal.
When i changed the radiator i lost about a cup maybe a cup and a half of transmission fluid, i have gotten time to replace it but i didn't think that small amount of fluid would dramatically change performance, the fluid also looked almost new. The only other things i have done to the truck is some brake work and replace the alternator. I have no knowledge of what the previous over did or did not do. It is not throwing any code, and the OD light/button is broken, i think on newer rangers the OD light would would brink indicating transmissions problems, not sure if its the same on these trucks.
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My knucklehead brother, re-living the past, borrowed my '96 Civic and sped off to a heavy metal concert - Mega-Death (may be prophetic here). His head was in a blissful dungeon. It was a 55 F day, near sundown, he'd gone 20 miles. He was going up a fairly steep hill and the engine started pinging loudly (something it's never done before), then he noticed the temp. gauge pegged. Instead of stopping immediately and looking under the hood where he would have found no water in the radiator, he "fixed" the problem on the fly by turning on the heater. The car continued to ping and run poorly. He continued to drive another mile up hill (about 2 minutes more) whence he stopped the car and shut off the engine, opened the hood, found ZERO water in the radiator (no steam). I have not tried to start the car since - had it towed. What should I do before trying to start it (besides adding coolant)? What should I do to find out if lasting engine damage was done? The engine ran like new prior to this - has 180k miles. Stevie1959 P.S: How much is he to blame for this - he's a 50 year old, experienced driver, amateur mechanic? - he tells me I gave him a car with no coolant in it (Not true!, I drove it that very day, no puddles of coolant anywhere).
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The ECT sensors on my 96 accord was broken. Hence the car overheated and smokes were coming out of the hood. Took the car to a honda dealer, here's what need to be replaced.
Radiator & cap
Lower & upper hose
Clamps
Thermostat
Coolant reservoir
ECT sensors
To do the repair they estimate 7 hrs of labor. I am not mechanically inclined so is this within the ballpark of how long it's going to take to replace the parts listed above. Does the 7 hr estimate seem reasonable?
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2000 Excursion 7.3 unk transmission
Quick run down on the situation. It has been terribly hot here bumping 105 degrees. I was told by a man he could see fluid leaking and it was trans fluid. I checked it and filled it up and got it to the shop.
Next day they said it was not leaking and that it probably overheated. They recommended an after market trans cooler. They put it in and off I went. 60 miles later I got fluid all over the rear of the truck. I filled it up again and got it home. Shop says I need a new trans.
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I drive a 97' Chevy cav', I have recently noticed that I have an oil leak. There isn't a puddle under the car yet but when I look under the car there is oil on two metal lines by the radiator. I assuming that they are the oil cooler lines. the location is on the driver side under the battery, by the radiator and closest to the bumper. Does this sound like its the oil cooler lines or is it something else?How do I repair this?How soon should I get it repaired?
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My sunfire is not shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. I will shift fine all the way up to 3rd and then ir revs like it is in neutral when i hit about 43 mph. it gets a little bit of a jump if i get off the gas all the way and then back on it and i can get it up to 55 but the rpm's are at 4.5. I read a few different posts that seemed like they may have had the same problem but they werent describing the way my car is acting. I went and got the fluid exchanged today and also changed the throttle position sensor on a whim because someone told me it could be the problem.
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cavalier, which I purchased used Two years ago, and lately I've been having a problem with it. I live in the area where Temps rub pretty high here. Recently, with three digit weather, my car stalls when I'm in stop and go traffic. I would have to turn off the car and restart it. The car temp gauge in car doesn't show the car overheating. What is the possible cause of the car stalling?
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What gasket is this on my 2002 cavalier the one behind the oil check thing ? its leaking
My car idled and died 3 time today ,and that gasket was leaking
52672b16-e04e-4439-8cbd-944eb5e99d89.jpg 44.66KB
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I have a 96 Chevy Cavalier with about 160k miles on it. Yesterday it started kicking kind of strangely from a dead stop to accelerating while in drive. This evening, after driving it both to and from work, when I backed in to a parking spot, it got stuck in reverse. The car was still pulling in drive and in reverse, it just seems like the gear shifter moves freely.
Idle seems fine, the vehicle just doesn't want to go into park or drive anymore.
Is this just as simple as the transmission being blown, or could there be another problem? Also, now that I've gotten the car turned off, it will not turn over again, since the vehicle won't shift into park.
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My 1994 chevy cavalier is overheating mainly on hot days and when I work the engine hard. My coolant level hasn't dropped in a long time and the coolant cap is usually dry. I replaced the thermostat and checked the radiator hoses. They seem to be fine. My engine is leaking coolant.
(See photo) : IMG_2308.JPG3024x4032 2.61 MB
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1996 Chevy Lumina. Radiator fan won't run when engine is hot. Fan motor, relay and wiring check good. Relay coil has no ground but changing control module has no effect on problem. Engine temp sensor is new and reads good on resistance check. Also low coolant is lit on dash though that may be a separate problem.
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I have a 1996 Honda Accord 4 cyl. with 150 K miles. Had a coolant leak that the shop fixed. About 60 days later, same problem. I have to refill radiator every other day. What I noticed is a brown soft muck buildup at the radiator cap area. Also the car seems to run rough on and off. The underside of the oil cap is clean, no carmel color ( oil and coolant mixture) buildup.
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