Cavalier :: 1995 - Intermittent Chugging / Missing
Sep 24, 2005
1995 Cav 2.2 5spd 180,000km
Intermittent 'chugging'. Usually the car is fine for about 2-5 minutes after a cold start, then starts chugging for the rest of the drive. Almost feels like someone is depressing the accelerator pedal and releasing quickly when accelerating. When maintaining speed it still chugs and feels like it is missing. When coasting down it smooths out. Also sounds rough at idle. It is not a clutch problem as clutch seems to work fine, no slipping (under hard acceleration before chugging starts).
I've changed the plugs, replaced the fuel filter, and even tried unplugging the EGR vacuum hose (someone suggested this tactic once) . Been thru several tanks of gas, and injector cleaner.
My next guess is to replace the O2 sensor.... But where it is???, and how to?
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I have a 2004 Nissan Xterra that has been chugging for a few months now. The problem is intermittent and only happens about once or twice a week when driving, but when it starts to chug (feels like it is running out of gas, jerky, will not accelerate) it is unsafe to drive on the freeway. I have taken it to several places and no one can figure out the problem. It was pulling two codes the speed sensor on the transmission PO500 - and the knock sensor code was coming up along with that. I had the speed sensor replaced twice and checked the wiring. We replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pump with a fuel gage and fuel lines, replaced the distributor cap and rotor, put in a new MAF sensor and still nothing is working to remedy the chugging. My last stop is replacing the knock sensor for $600, the problem is that the Nissan Mechanics (I visited two dealerships in different cities) told me not to replace this as it would not cause chugging. Several other mechanics around town tell me that they are wrong and I do need to replace it.
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Driving home tonight and heard and intermittent "chug chug chug" noise from the front end. Seemed to start after hitting a bump, then once I stop the truck, it goes away until the next bump.
2005 F350 fx4 CCLB 6.0 ...
Brakes were just replaced, one warped rotor and new calipers. I checked each tire and no signs of rubbing, no excess heat, no pulsing in the brakes or while stopping. Just had all new Moog problem solver ball joints, tie rods, and drag link installed less than a month ago. U-Joints are good, Spicer brand.
No loose parts, nothing with any play, no signs of wear anywhere that I could see, and the truck doesn't seem to drive or handle any differently. No jerking, wobbling or pulling that I could tell.
Here is a video : [URL] .....
Also, I have four new Bilstein 5100 shocks on the way since mine are pretty well toast, if that would make a difference. The truck definitely has a lot of bounce over bumps, almost floaty. And you can easily push down on the front tow hooks and watch the front end just bounce up and down a few times....
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Car is a 1995 Chevy Cavlier LS. 2.2L engine, about 127,000 miles. Has a minor coolant leak (freeze-out plug) and a slow oil leak (if I forget to check the level, the oil light comes on about 3000 miles after an oil change). It's beat up, had a few years of poor maintenance (but limited use) before I got it from a relative 3-4 years ago. I do oil changes at 3-5k miles, keeping fluids topped off, and try to remember to change the air filter regularly (which reminds me, I think I'm due for one).
Problem history: About 7 months ago, I had problems with the battery going dead. Some of it related to stupid mistakes--lights on or door ajar. Battery was old, parts store suggested replacing it. New battery fixed the issue. About 2 weeks ago, I tried to start it and ran into the same problem after the car hadn't been run for 2+ days. Dash lights come on, the key-in/startup bell chimes, but turning the key to start leads to fast clicking from the engine and the chime sounding rapidly. I forget if it made any other sounds at the time. Attempting to jump it didn't work, but the other car had an old battery and the cables were kindof cheap.
Called roadside, and he was able to jump it. He suggested taking the battery to Advance, so we did that.Advance charged the battery, tested it, said it was fine. Suggested I bring the car over and they could test to see if it's charging the battery. I did that, and it seemed ok. Engine was a little rough, possibly spark plugs, but I haven't checked that out yet. I figured I had done something stupid again and left a door ajar or the headlights on.Today, same problem again. I last drove it 2-3 days ago. Headlights were definitely off. It's possibly the driver door was ajar causing the dome light to stay on, but I doubt it. Same noises when I turn the key as before, I hear the sound of the engine trying to start once (I think that it's trying to turn over), but it won't start. Haven't had a chance to try and jump it yet.
Possibly relevant: Back in the spring, it wouldn't start one day, but the engine wouldn't do anything, no clicking etc. Neutral safety switch was loose/misaligned. Mechanic was able to make a small adjustment, and it's been fine.
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I have a 2003 Elantra GLS that has two issues that may be related. The first one the engine will shut off for no apparent reason. Doesn't matter how fast, or if the a/c is on or not. I used to be able to start it right up after I pulled over, now I have to wait about 15 seconds. Starts up fine and runs like nothing happened. There is no particular time frame when it will shut down. Maybe once a month, then happen twice in a week.
Second issue is when I have to stop at a red light and have the a/c on, it seems to have an intermittent miss, meaning after it does miss it idles fine for a while and then misses again. It seems like a miss to me, feels like the car almost shuts down but catches itself and will idle fine until next miss. If I turn off the a/c I do not feel it miss. If I have the a/c on and put it into neutral, it does not appear to miss near as much.
The check engine light has come on twice for a day or so and then goes out. Car runs fine when it does. Below is what I have done since I purchased the car used at 104,000 miles. current mileage - 117,000
* changed timing belt, transmission fluid, brake fluid, changed oil at 104,000 miles when bought.
* installed new radiator recently
* installed crankshaft sensor (due to error code when checked)
Other than that, car runs great, accelerates good, idles good
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This truck misses in the morning when I first start it. It acts like it did when the catalytic converter went bad. Only so much gas can be given, before it sputters and misses. This only happens when it is humid or raining. When the truck warms up, the problem goes away, and once it is warm, it doesn't happen again during the day. I would suspect an exhaust problem, but I just replaced the entire system from the exhaust manifold back.I'm now suspecting a problem with the ignition, but I don't know where to start to find that problem... 1995 Tacoma i4 5spd manual 2wd...
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I have a 95 Subaru that has major engine miss and engine smoke uphill. I replace knock sensor fuel pump n filter, spark wires. What else could it be?
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I recently acquired a 04 grand caravan with 130k on it today i got off freeway and was sitting at light and i felt a pretty significant intermittent miss so i had it scanned and came back with those 2 codes and a previous evap code in wich i was aware of. Im gonna change plugs and wires in a.m. and possibly run sea foam threw brake booster vacuum. If there's something elese i should look at for those codes p0300 & p0302! I tried to clear codes and cel stayed on didn't go off and come back on it stayed illuminated??
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My 1995 C3500 has a 60/40 bench seat, both adjusting knobs on driver and passenger side (to recline and pull forward for rear seat access) are missing. I've tried the manufacturer and these items are discontinued. Where I can find them or what would be compatible from another vehicle?
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My 1995 Toyota Corolla DX with 180,000 miles is missing. It was missing intermittently, especially when idling and cold, and especially when I drove short distances to run errands and then restarted it. It got to the point where it was missing even when warm, and would stall out when idling (always restarted eventually). I took it in to a shop, and they replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil (which was fried) and the distributor cap and rotor.
All of the low speed and idling problems are solved. However, it now misses intermittently when I drive on the highway, only when giving the car gas at speeds of 45 mph or higher. It doesn't miss when I am coasting, regardless of speed, and doesn't miss at all under 45 mph. This car drives too well under 45 to be headed to the scrap yard yet.
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when u turn the key it starts to turn over for half a sec then stops. when u stop it sounds like the starter is still spinning. battery is good. it use to do it some times but if she tried a couple times it would start. could it be where the wires go in or the whole thing? could it be somthing else besides the starter?
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1995 7.3L f350 400k mi developed 1poss 2 cyl miss does not change after warm up and will die after 10 min .
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Sometimes get a no-start on my car, turn key, nothing have dash lights and headlights, but they do not dim when i turn key, car will also not start in neutral, Had lock cylinder with vats wires replaced, and neutral safety switch was cleaned and adjusted. I even try using remote start and will not with that. this happens every few days or can go a week before problem starts again.
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My truck is a 2003 f250 / 2wd automatic, 7.3 powerstroke, 284000 well maintained miles.
Just last week I sprug a large oil leak and had to replace the hoop outlet o rings..problem solved. This week I can drive 15-20 miles on the freeway and the truck starts to act like ota running out of fuel. Bogs down to 40mph then starts missing. I pull over, and when revving I have un burnt fuel and oil smoking out of my tailpipe. I let it sit for 5-10 minutes and it will be fine for the rest of the drive and this happens intermittently, there is no pattern.
The truck has a ton of power, starts great hot or cold. I did a ton of research and found a IPR could possibly cause this, as could plugged screens in the fuel pickup. Then I read about all the injector harness issues but I don't think that I my issue.
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My 1995 Buick Lesabre will intermittently drain the battery after sitting for about 12 hours. It is unpredictable. The battery was newly installed in December, 2010 and the alternator was tested at that time and about three weeks ago and proved to be recharging properly. This battery kill happens even when there is no visible sign of current usage, such as a dome light being left on. What I should look for in order to to find the source of the current drain?
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I have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles. This car is basically a rebadged Camry of the same vintage. Occasionally, when the car sits for extended periods (overnight or while I'm at work) and I try to start it, I get nothing. Not a click--nothing. This will never happen if I pop into a grocery store or other errands that are an hour or less.I've tried jiggling the floor shifter to see if it was the neutral safety switch and no luck. I've also tried putting the car in neutral with no results. I can also move the steering wheel rapidly left-right and push hard down onto the brake pedal with no obvious results. Eventually after 10 tries or so the starter motor will engage and it just starts. Could it be the ignition (where I put the key in)?
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I drive a 1995 olds Supreme 3.1 that has 125,000 miles. It runs like a dream but I have been having one problem I cannot pinpoint a solution for. When started cold, it runs and drives perfectly all day long, no problem. However once it reaches operating temperature and is shut off for a short period of time, it shudders and stalls upon restart. Then it does not restart until the engine is cool. The problem has been intermittent and not as much of an issue during the winter, but as spring approaches I worry it may become a bigger problem.
It has had a recent tune up: new spark plugs, wires, radiator, hoses, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter, and water pump. This issue existed before all these parts were replaced.
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330,000 km on car. I drove 45 minutes when battery light came on on and car engine stalled when making a left turn (fuel light had just come on too but not empty) and restarted on own, drove 10 minutes and it stalled again, so I pulled over and restarted. Drove 45 minutes home. No issues since. Shop says 10 year old battery and alternator are testing fine, though they suggest replacing alternator as it may be going. Could there be other electrical issue since the issue is more intermittent? Car would not stall immediately if alternator failing I would think - should run on battery for a bit and not restart. Drive maybe 400km per month and it sits for 10 days at a time.
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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Car is chugging when stopped. Changed the spark plugs and fuel filter. Still does it. Now checking the distributor. I've attached a couple pictures. You can see the brown marks. Is this a problem?
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I've got this 96 neon. I can drive it to work and almost exactly 10 miles into the trip everyday I notice a subtle chug. Then it gets worst and within a couple of miles it chugs progressively worse until it dies. I pull over to the side of the road for 5-10 minutes. Then I can start it back up and run down the road another 3-5 miles before it happens again. I've changed the computer, coil, cam positioning sensor, O2 sensor, gutted the cat, changed plugs and wires. I'm to the end of my rope with this car. The codes that its throwing are no dice.
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