Caravan/Voyager :: Town And Country Starts And Dies When Moving
Apr 19, 2015
2002 T&C, starts and idles fine. When we put in gear (drive or reverse) it dies. Then we can restart and it drives fine the rest of the day. This only happens when it has been sitting a long time, such as over night. However, I've let it sit until mid-day and it does it so it doesn't appear to be Temp or humidity related as it issue is repeatable at any time of the day as long as the vehicle has been sitting 12 hours or so.
The remainder of the day it drives without issue and we can restart 8-10 times during the day without issue, then the next day when we restart it, no matter how long it idles it cuts out when you first start to move and apply the gas. When you restart, it, it often doesn't happen again and I've never had to restart more than twice. Again, it runs fine other than this issue.
I've replaced the fuel filter and I put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. The pressure is within specs. I also watched the gauge as my wife backed the vehicle up and it died, but the fuel pressure didn't drop out. It is now showing a O2 Sensor code per Advance, but in reading other post, those can be misleading, so I wanted input before I just start throwing money at the problem
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The other evening my 2006 Town & County 3.3L would not accelerate well and I though I detected a miss while trying to accelerate. Also, when I got it up to around 55mph and would try to accelerate to pass, the engine would kick clear up to over 4000rpm and barley accelerate. I checked the plugs, the were fine, changed the plug wires didn't make any difference. The van had about a half a tank of gas in it, so I went ahead and filled it up, and that didn't change anything. I let the van sit overnight and the next afternoon took it out on the road and it seems to accelerate fine now.
The only thing I'm still noticing at this point is that with the transmission in park, when I try to rev the engine up to around 3000 rpm, it starts cutting off/missing very badly at around 2800 rpm.
My 99 grand voyager with 3.3L does not do, so I'm wondering if still have some kind of issue on my 06 or is there something on the newer vans that limits the rpm in park, it doesn't seem to be cutting out or missing at that rpm range now while driving.
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P0032 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
I have read that in 2005 chrysler changed the ohms levels for the oxygen sensors and may need to have bcm reflashed to get a new oxygen sensor to work wheither its dealer item or not, is this true if i were to buy a mopar oxygen sensor? aftermarket is out of the question being the ohm readings would require me to spend some time at the dealer. is this code a defective sensor? or could it be related to the thermostat being faulty? am not low on antifreeze and temp gauge reads normal.
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I have a 2005 town and country that was running fine and when my wife picked me up today and was waiting idle it died. She didn't try to start it right away and when I got out there tried to start it and it fired then died and now it won't fire at all. It turns over fine but just won't fire.
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My 2000 dodge caravan with the 3.3 is shuddering while in gear and not moving especially in reverse . As soon as you start going it stops . No slipping whatsoever. The van only has 130'000 miles on it .
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Went to start this 5.0 TC after it sat idle for a week, and it died within 3-4 seconds. Further attempts resulted in similar response. After some initial checks, I was able to keep the engine running by manually depressing the IAC plunger into the barrel. The engine ran fine as long as I could hold that, but stall immediately after release. Codes: TPS out of range; HEGO HO2S sensor out of range-always lean. Bought a new TPS no change.
Today: With the key "on" and engine off, the fuel pressure is a steady 38psi. There is an air release button on the fuel gauge line and when I pushed that, the gauge pressure dropped to zero and does not come back (until you key off and on again). I removed the IAC from its mount and with the key on--I observed the plunger move inside its body--guessing maybe 1/4 inch. I casually checked all the engine management items I see in books and looked at vacuum hoses and couldn't see anything amiss (also climbed on top of this engine and checked the rear--PCV lines etc.). I removed the fuel regulator vac line and observed no fuel leakage there.
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Got 99 Grand with a issue. It'll run fine then you come to a stop light and it'll die. try to start it and it'll rev to 2000 rpm then drop to almost nothing then rev again then die. It may do this once or 2-3 times. If you keep your foot on brake and give it gas you can keep it running put it still revs. Once at highway speeds it runs normal. When you get home or wherever and shut it off for awhile it'll start and run normal. Had it in shop twice. No codes. Replaced pvc valve and hose, fuel filter. They said start replacing stuff till it stops. I don't go there anymore. Another shop said unless it does it for them they wouldn't know where to start. Of coarse every time it does it, by the time I get it to shop it runs fine. I can do brakes, axle shafts, bearings but electronic fuel injection stuff still baffles me.
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We have a 96 t&c. The turn signals only work once in a while. Sometimes they start to work and then freeze. Sometimes they don't work at the beginning of a ride and start to work 10 minutes into it. It seems quite random.
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I have a 2001 Town and Country and when I start it up, in about a minute or so, it starts to leak gas from the exhaust. White smokes come from the exhaust and gas starts dripping out onto the ground.
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We just purchased a 2012 Grand Caravan and was wondering where to get a key and program it. I know the key will be an arm and a leg if i get it from the dealer. Is there a tutorial that tells how to program it as well?
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2006 Caravan. Heat comes and goes every minute or so. Also noticed the temp gauge goes from normal operating range to cold and back again frequently. Hasn't overheated. Does that sound like a thermostat problem?
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
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I'm having trouble with my 96' 3.0L, its kind of crazy its intermittent and while driving the engines surges one or twice and then dies... when I try to crank it up again cranks but don't starts if I try again it wont even crank ( no starter winding up ) what I noticed is that is I'm driving when it dies my check engine light disappears for a while and if I connect my OBD 2 reader does not link up with the ECU if I wait a while and I crank it up again its starts and the while cranking up I can hear a bang noise from the engine compartment drives side and then after a couple of minutes dies again...
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I have a 2006 Grand Caravan 3.8 that just stalled at a set of lights yesterday and have had it towed back to the shop here. I turns over and starts briefly then will die and then just turn over strongly. I cleaned the throttle body and IAC but this did not work. I connected fuel pressure tester and have no pressure when turn key on or turn it over.
The fuse and relay check out ok, so I'm thinking bad or clogged fuel pump.
I have a 2004 Caravan out back that I have used for other small parts to interchange before and was wondering whether or not the fuel pumps between these two are compatible. Be a lot of work to pull the one off the one in the yard, only to find out its not going to fit.
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142k, having some problems lately, the van won't accelerate now and again, moreso when the engine isn't up to temp, but lately it's gotten more and more prevalent. I have done some recent and needed maintenance in hopes of fixing the issue, but to no avail so far. I've replaced the plugs and wires, air and fuel filters, and both upper and lower O2 sensors (first replaced the upper with a Bosch, almost immediately had problems with P0134 code, so instead went with a Denso, hasn't come back yet). I checked fuel pressure, 60 psi sitting in the shop, the cat doesn't seem to be clogged, and it idles fine all day long.
Problem resembles running out of fuel, or more maybe like I'm letting off the gas, but my cheap scanner says the TPS is working fine, and I was watching the TPS percentage as I was driving it was reading normally. As I'm accelerating slowly from a stop, it'll start to cut out around 30 mph, but speed doesn't seem to matter, if I accelerate sharply it just bogs and slows down, if it does shift up a gear, the rpms will jump to about 5k, then slowly decrease even if I've got my foot on the floor. I keep coming back to the fuel pump, but I don't have a long enough hose to have it connected while test driving. Considering removing the hood so I can prop the gauge up so I can see it while driving. I am getting a P0132 code now, but I'm more concerned with the accelerating issue.
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Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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Someone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
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2005 town country, on interstate, cruise a 85, drives smooth, then vibrates pretty good, it will vibrate for a few seconds then smooth, then vibrate. the vibration is felt everywhere, steering wheel, seats, even the outside mirrors vibrate, at 60 we don't feel it much, at 45 nothing. we notice when coming to a slow stop or just scooting up in traffic that it seems to have a little wobble to it too.
All brakes and rotors and all motor and transmission mounts are new, struts, strut mounts, sway bar, sway bar end links and bushings are new, have had it checked and nobody can find anything wrong. no clunking noise moving the tires left to right and up and down. alignment is perfect. the tires are crappy but am thinking if it was a tire problem it would vibrate all the time and not on and off. its never been wrecked either. it is a 3.8, front and rear sway bars, long wheel base, nivomat rear.
Wheel bearings? I don't know but would think they'd make noise moving the tires back and forth and side to side. and hear no clunking over bumps at any speed.
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Changed input and output sensor, replaced solenoid pack, cam and crank sensor. Runs good code on odometer 1684 p700.
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