Caravan/Voyager :: No Speedometer / Wouldn't Shift And Check Engine Light Came On
Sep 23, 2004
I was able to quickly diagnose the problem with our 99 T&C LXi w/3.8L.
Problem: No speedometer, wouldn't shift, check engine light came on.
Many posts suggested speed sensor. There are actually 2 of them. An input and an output. Both cost approx $20 each.
By removing the aircleaner box assembly, I had the best (relative word) access to the sensors. A 1" socket w/3" extension did the trick. I understand the access for 2000+ models is different.
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My boss bought me a van, so we could start a detailing business, anyways, we got the van for . Not bad inside, and ran ok, boss didnt notice it wasnt shifting i guess. So it went straight to the shop, got new brakes, rotors, belts, plugs, and oil change. Boss did transmission flush on it to see if it would work, he said it shifted into second for him, but when i was driving home. It would not shift outta first gear.Check engine light is on. It is an automatic. I dont know what to do now,
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My check engine light came on today and while driving, the idle (RPM's) were very high. At about 80KMs, it was about 3500 and when I accelerated, the engine would race along with the RPMs. While stopped, idling seems fine. I couldn't get over 80KMs/Hr without the idle going too high.
What it could be? Haven't had time to check codes as it is long weekend and garages are now closed till tuesday.
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I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
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I have a 96 Grand Voyager that had had sat for a year undriven or started due to being out of state. It ran like a champ when I parked it. Now I charged the battery and went for a drive on the freeway and my check engine light came on and started blinking. I had the code read it came back with 2 codes a P0306 and a P0300. I noticed that the cylinder 6 spark plug wire was arcing on the core support. So I replaced all the plug wires and spark plugs with Champion platinum spark plugs. I cleared the codes and took it on a test drive and the P0300 code came back. Is there anyway the old gas is causing the random misfire? or what else could it be?
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My 1999 Plymouth grand voyager SE 3.3 liter engine has developed a tach and speed. Odometer problem. At various times the tach will surge@ 200 rpm and at the same time the speedometer will top out and then they will return to where they should be. I can make this happen also bye driving in reverse, stopping and putting it in overdrive and the tach and speedometer will surge without the car ever moving...
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My wife has been driving our 98 Dodge Grand Caravan the last couple of days and while she is driving the Tachometer and Speedometer will drop to 0. This does not affect the performance of the engine or anything else. Runs and drives "perfect" (or at least for its age and mileage). The dash seems to "reset" when she parks and turns off the ignition then restarts it.
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I had to replace the water pump on my dodge Grand Caravan, which was challenging, but I got it done. But now the engine light is on.... why would that happen? I did take off the filter hose, and unplugged the cord to move the air filter housing, but I plugged it back in when i re-hooked everything up. So now I am nervous that i did something wrong. Why the engine light would come on and stay on? water pump works, put coolant in etc.... no leaks.... so now i just need to figure out the engine light.
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Service Engine light came on couple days later turned off, came back on today & vehicle stopped shifting into 3rd. Later this evening was driving it and power steering went out, ABS light came on, temp gauge jumping from hot then cold. When Service Engine light came on originally took to autozone. these are the codes given:
P0700
P1776
P0420
I have read problem could be input or output sensor which are $17 bucks each. Going to try those...
Mileage is 145,000
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I am experiencing a very frustrating shift anomaly. 2003 T and C . Under certain throttle conditions ( usually light ) from a dead start I am feeling a bump/violent shudder between the 1-2 transmission shift. If I let off the gas, I can get the shudder to quit and then by continuing to accelerate , successfully complete the 1-2 shift.
Does not happen all the time and never under straight ahead med-hard acceleration. By nature , happens most of the time under light acceleration when turning a corner from a dead stop. Sort of feels like a loss of traction or something funky happening with the torque convertor. Have serviced the trans with new fluid and filter, new TPS, new plugs, wires, and coil pack.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with the 3.8 and 135,000 miles. Whenever it is hot out and the engine has been running it is hard to shift either from park or back into park. Today it completely froze on me and I had to wait for it to cool down before it would shift into park. Temp out is about 80 today.
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I purchased a 2004 Chrysler Town & Country Dec 2003. I noticed an intermittent problem with my gear shift indicator lights PDRNL were all lighting up when I would start the vehicle in February 2004. I would have to play with the shift lever a few times to get it into gear.
On Feb 26, 2004 the vehicle would not start at all, would not even turn over. The vehicle had to be towed to the dealership. It had 3500 miles at the time. The error code was PO706 check shifter signal. They said it was the transmission range sensor and replaced it. I had no problems for 2000 miles until I was in northern Michigan and the gear shift indicator lights started doing the same thing.
I brought it to a local Chrysler dealership the next morning and they scanned the following codes PO1791 loss of prime PO705 check shifter signal BCM stored TCM message not received FCM stored TCM communication fault DSD stored incomplete power voltage. This dealership checked connections and wiring harness which were okay so advised me to take it back to my dealership at home since they would have to tear the whole van down to figure out what was wrong and any parts they would need would not get there before I left for home.
Luckily, I made it home with only one incident with these lights coming on. My dealership had the same error code PO706 and also PO444. Here is what their repair order states "DTC PO706 shift signal fault. Front pump allowing torque convertor to bleed down IPM internally shorted causing intermittent shift signal errors and PO444 and PO706. Scan and perform trans diag and fluid level full R & I the transmission R & I the pan and valve body replace the filter R & I the front pump and replace the front pump and torque convertor called STAR about intermittent loss of shift signal was told to replace the IPM. Replace the IPM (power distribution center) retest ok at this time."
So here is my question....I am very worried with all that I am reading about transmission problems and this van has only 6500 miles and all these parts that they have had to replace already is really scaring me!
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Today, after making a few stops at local stores, I tried starting my car and it wouldn't start. It sounded like the engine did turn over once, but would stall out immediately. I ended up calling a tow truck, but when he showed up an hour later, the engine started first try. Except now the engine light was on.
I should note that a friend was watching my car for last week while I was out of town and she said she had no issues with the car. At first I thought maybe she forgot to put the gas cap on, but that's not it.
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
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ABS light is on and the auto trac is off and will not turn back on. What this could be?
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Changed oil on the 2014 grand caravan, replaced the filter. afterwards the oil light comes on at low rpm goes out when u accelerate, and the engine light is on. Took it to autozone, it is saying, that the oil sensor switch is stuck.
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I start my van and open the hood to check Coolant and I notice gas spilling out engine and running down the side close to my power steering pump. So I stop the vehicle and notice gas sprayed on different parts by the back spark plugs and a little area by sensor.
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The change oil light on my 2013 will not reset. I have tried the routine advised in the manual - turning key to on/accessory and depressing the gas pedal slowly 3 times turning to off and then starting but it does not work.
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The battery light came on, alt not charging. I have taken it off twice and had it checked, both times I had it checked it showed good, when I put it back on it charged for a bit and then the light came back on and it showed no charging at the battery. Second time the place checked it they ran the check cycle 4 times in a row to see if it had a problem when the electronics started warming up... still showed all green.
I thought perhaps the wires going to the alt, so I had the wife start the van up and I moved the wires around going to the alt to see if it made the batt light flicker, no joy. (real fun getting your hand back there while the van is running)
The large wire shows batt voltage where it hooks on to the alt, running or not...... the two prong plug that goes into the alt shows no voltage unhooked with the key on, and no voltage plugged in with the key on or running.
I have been told there is a control unit that controls the output of the alternator. I have checked every fuse in the fusebox under the dash and in the engine compartment. Fuseable link on big wire going to the alt should be good as I do get battery voltage to the alt from the battery, correct?
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I was riding down the interstate this morning and had my cruise control set at 70mph. all of a sudden the cruise just turn off. I went to hit the gas pedal and there was nothing. No check engine light or anything, no spit, no sputter. I pulled off the side of the interstate and attempted to start the van. the engine turns over fine, but no start. all lights, radio work fine. car has fuel. it did not run hot.
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