Caravan/Voyager :: Front Brake Caliper Frozen And Cannot Turn The Tire
Mar 28, 2013
My right front brake caliper is frozen and I cannot turn the tire. This happened about a month ago and I went to Autozone and they gave me a new caliper, rotor and brakes, under warranty, and now the caliper is frozen again and I cannot turn the tire when jacked up. It seems to release after a period of time. I am not sure if it has a proportioning valve for the front brakes, but the driver side wheel turns freely and is not stuck.
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Started to change front pads and rotors on my GX470, but couldn't get the caliper bolts loose. Is it safe to use a torch to heat up the area around the bolts so I can loosen the bolts? Any other way to break these bolts free?
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This a 3.3L engine although the noise has nothing to do with the engine but front left near tire assembly, what can it be?
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So, my right, rear, brake caliper froze in the open position a little while back; I hit the brake hard, it held, heard a clack, then it let go and stayed in the open (uncompressed) position. I lost some braking power but at least have been able to drive. No visible brake fluid leak, other three brakes working fine.
At 125K, I've decided to do a full brake job, and am about to search for some of the parts on the awesome stickied parts reference list up above. I'll hopefully find some parts are available at NAPA, where I'm also ordering the right side cv axle.
So, I'm only finding remanufactured brake calipers at NAPA. Are they decent or should I look for something new elsewhere?
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In our 2005 Chrysler Town & Country Touring Minivan, the tire lite on the dashboard came on last night and the following message appeared on the overhead console: "Service Tire System Soon". I filled all the tires to specs, but the light and message remain. The lite on the dash goes out, but the message stays on. Has a tire pressure sensor failed? If so, how does the mechanic know which one? Finally, how much does a tire pressure sensor cost?
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I have a 96 voyager, it has been a great car for the last 10 years I've had it. My brake pedal goes down to the floor, it gives brake but I think barely and my brake light comes on. I have Bled it twice and changed the master cylinder , neither worked, I'm perplexed, my mechanic thinks it is the abs.
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2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT 4.0L 47K miles. I am having a bad issue with the brakes.
I have had to replace the front brake pads and rotors 3 times and going on the 4th time IN LESS THAN 47K MILES. The brakes seem to work fine in city driving where the streets are flat. The problem is when driving on any kind of a downhill grade. If you try to brake on a downhill slope the brakes shudder so bad that you cannot only feel the steering wheel shake, you can SEE it shake.
The Dealerships say the problem is warped rotors and everything is fine after installing a new set or turning the old set. After the 2nd set of "OEM" rotors supplied by the dealerships (two different Dealerships to be exact), I got fed up and installed top of the line NAPA Ceramic pads and Rotors, which do the exact same thing after less than a year/7k miles. This van is not a commercial vehicle, and is not overloaded or used for towing.
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What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
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I'm working on a 2008 Grand Caravan SE 3.3L Brake warning light (!) on dash is on. Datastream on my OTC Genisys shows that the Brake fluid level switch is 'ON'.
The van does not have pad wear indicators; fluid is full; there are no leaks in the system; no brake pull, uneven braking or other performance issues.
Scantool says Park Brake is off and I disconnected it to be sure.
When checking connector at switch on the master, one wire has continuity to ground and the other has about 12.5V on the DMM but won't light my test light.
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My old 1997 Dodge Caravan (150k miles) has weak brakes. During normal driving, it needs more pressure on the pedal to brake normally, than any other car that I have driven. This would be ok as I can push hard on the pedal... But the problem is that, past some point, I get no additional braking power no matter how hard I push.
So in case of an emergency, I cannot come anywhere close to lock the wheels (and this car does not have ABS). So basically, the braking power is proportional to how hard I push, up to a point where the braking power remains the same no matter how hard I push. At that point the pedal is maybe 1/3 down, still very far from the floor.
I have just replaced the front pads and rotor with no improvement. And when the engine is not running, the pedal gets really hard after I depress the brakes 3 times, indicating that the booster is doing something. The car will stay in the driveway for now as this is a dangerous situation.
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Just have a quick question. I am replacing some rusted brake lines near the gas tank. I already have the rusted ones cut out. I want to know if this junction box is really needed. If not it would sure take out alot of bending the lines. It looks like the line only come down the frame and bolt into the block and then straight out to the rear wheels.
[IMG][/IMG]...
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I had to replace my swaybar links on my T&C due to it not passing state safety inspection. There was also some random noise that occasionally occurred on bumps. The tech said the "book" said to replace the strut and strut mounts but he could not see anything wrong. After replacing the swaybar links, there is now clunking while driving. I thought it was a lack of grease in the links but I greased them and while it got a little better...it still happens.
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Front blower resistor going bad over and over? I've replaced it 4 times and it will last a few months. Then the van comes back with high blow only. There is an electrical component built into the resistor that has failed every time. I don't know if this is built-in fusible link or what. I've measured the resistance on a new one, which was basically 0 ohms, so I doubt it's a resistor, and can't be a capacitor. I've been wondering if the blower motor is drawing too much juice ( never blown the fuse ). How many amps the blower should draw. This is on a 2001 Grand Caravan Sport w/ rear ac.
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Wife telling the brakes went out but fluid is leaking under center of vehicle when brake is pressed. Is this just a rear brake line issue?
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We have a 96 t&c. The turn signals only work once in a while. Sometimes they start to work and then freeze. Sometimes they don't work at the beginning of a ride and start to work 10 minutes into it. It seems quite random.
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2007 Grand Caravan SXT, 86K Miles
Factory Radio Clock, AM/FM, CD and Tape Player.
Radio and Clock looses power and completely shuts off and will not turn back on while driving. Miles driven does not seem to be consistent.
All other Electrical seems to work fine, overhead console, Wipers, Blower, Turn Signals, Head Lights, Instrument Panel all seems fine.
When car is shut off, Blower continues to run for a few seconds and then stops.
When car is restarted Radio/Clock magically comes back, clock is reset to 12:00 and radio is on AM.
Get some funny flashing of Idiot lights on cluster that to my recolection is not normal behavior. Once while my wife was driving it the Vehicle Theft Alarm Light came on when she started it up and it stayed on until she stopped and then started it back up when she left the store she was at. That has only happened once.
I checked the Battery Voltage while running and stopped and all seems normal. The Battery was new this December. I also checked fuses and there are none that are blown.
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This has happened twice now. I went to turn a tight corner and the power steering just went out. A moment or so later, it came back. Any conjecture?
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Intermittent problem, occurred 4 times during past 4 weeks, always during wet/rainy/damp weather. Three times when car was sitting overnight, once at work in parking lot after a 12 hour work shift. Each time, the engine started 5 or 6 times then died like someone turned the key off two seconds after the engine started. Then the engine would not crank or turn over, just some clicking near the relay box under the hood. Lights, power windows, etc. all work fine. Battery voltage OK. Jump starting or battery charger makes no difference. Note: With key in "run" position, no display to odometer though all idiot lights light up like normal.
1st time, after about 15-20 minutes, car started. 2nd time, towed to my mechanic (who thought security system lock out) then a second tow to dealer. Dealer found power into power distribution center but none out. Replaced PDC. Car worked fine for 1 week. Same problem twice since repair. First post repair failure I had van re-towed to dealer. Of course, it started for them. Left overnight 2 more nights. Started for them every time. They say it is a "problem with computers" but they don't know exactly what. They also say the Alarm set Dash light is coming on with the rest of the dash lights and that is a no-no. 2nd post repair failure happened this morning. Tried locking door to reset alarm. No change. Locked doors, opened rear hatch. Lights flashed but horn did not sound. When car is working and I do that (open hatch with other doors locked), in addition to lights flashing, horn beeps! I also disconnected the positive battery terminal, waited 10 minutes, reconnected and attempted restart. No change. Car still won't start and odometer display does not work.
Van has 110,000 miles. Otherwise in fantastic shape and runs great (though only gets about 20MPG). Owned van for 2 months and have driven about 7,000 miles. 1st problem I've encountered (other than a very uncomfortable drivers seat - feels like a spring is sprung!)
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My daughter has a 1996 Grand Voyager that she would like to sell. However, right now when you drive it the front end shakes horribly like the wheels are coming off. I mean the whole dash is shaking. Scary! In addition, I swear I've seen the front wheels appear to wobble when she's driving it. Ive changed the wheel bearing on the passenger side and was astonished to find that it made no difference. I was wondering about the half shafts and CV joints and such. How can I tell if these are bad? I've grabbed them and tried to move them and they don't move.
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98 dodge caravan 3.3L v6 ..... All lights work including driver's side tail lights. only problem is that when pressing brake pedal, the driver's side brake light does not light up. i changed the bulb and checked the brake light fuse under the hood, but it was fine (as i guessed since the passenger side and middle brake lights work). I took the assembly off and reseated the connector to the tail light assembly, but same issue.
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I am experiencing an annoying noise from the front struts when passing over bumps. I do not believe that the front end is bottoming, but it seems to give a deep thud sound. It is not a tin sound, but more like something loose and insulated. What is a jounce bushing? Are these something in the strut assembly and susceptible to getting loose? I have read about the springs could be the culprit, but could it be that the front spring is bottoming and the strut is hitting a bottoming rubber ? Jounce bushing?
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