Caravan/Voyager :: Front Blower Resistor Failure
Nov 11, 2003
Front blower resistor going bad over and over? I've replaced it 4 times and it will last a few months. Then the van comes back with high blow only. There is an electrical component built into the resistor that has failed every time. I don't know if this is built-in fusible link or what. I've measured the resistance on a new one, which was basically 0 ohms, so I doubt it's a resistor, and can't be a capacitor. I've been wondering if the blower motor is drawing too much juice ( never blown the fuse ). How many amps the blower should draw. This is on a 2001 Grand Caravan Sport w/ rear ac.
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I have installed my 6th resistor and they continue to burn up, leaving #5 only.
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I have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with 58000 miles. The rear blower won't run with either the front controls or rear controls. I have checked the fuses and they looked ok.
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I'm wondering if there is a 100% way to check and see if my climate control module is bad. No lights work on it, it doesn't turn on the ac or the blower. I took it off it all seems to be decent from what I can tell. But its just not working.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan with a heater blower that doesn't seem to be working. Whether the heater knob is on low or high, it does nothing, but you can feel a little heat coming out, though. I was told it may be a resistor behind the glove box. I've already checked the fuse, and it seems OK. What do I do?
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What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
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I had to replace my swaybar links on my T&C due to it not passing state safety inspection. There was also some random noise that occasionally occurred on bumps. The tech said the "book" said to replace the strut and strut mounts but he could not see anything wrong. After replacing the swaybar links, there is now clunking while driving. I thought it was a lack of grease in the links but I greased them and while it got a little better...it still happens.
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My daughter has a 1996 Grand Voyager that she would like to sell. However, right now when you drive it the front end shakes horribly like the wheels are coming off. I mean the whole dash is shaking. Scary! In addition, I swear I've seen the front wheels appear to wobble when she's driving it. Ive changed the wheel bearing on the passenger side and was astonished to find that it made no difference. I was wondering about the half shafts and CV joints and such. How can I tell if these are bad? I've grabbed them and tried to move them and they don't move.
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My right front brake caliper is frozen and I cannot turn the tire. This happened about a month ago and I went to Autozone and they gave me a new caliper, rotor and brakes, under warranty, and now the caliper is frozen again and I cannot turn the tire when jacked up. It seems to release after a period of time. I am not sure if it has a proportioning valve for the front brakes, but the driver side wheel turns freely and is not stuck.
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I am experiencing an annoying noise from the front struts when passing over bumps. I do not believe that the front end is bottoming, but it seems to give a deep thud sound. It is not a tin sound, but more like something loose and insulated. What is a jounce bushing? Are these something in the strut assembly and susceptible to getting loose? I have read about the springs could be the culprit, but could it be that the front spring is bottoming and the strut is hitting a bottoming rubber ? Jounce bushing?
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Back in June I replaced all 4 brakes and rotors. Now all of sudden I hear a loud grinding noise in the front end only when I'm braking to a complete stop.
I took all 4 tires off and then took off the pads. The pads and rotors are all still brand new and have very minor normal wear. Also the calipers still look good.
I then put everything back together and went for a test drive. The grinding noise is still there. It's very loud and only when I come to a complete stop.
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This a 3.3L engine although the noise has nothing to do with the engine but front left near tire assembly, what can it be?
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My Caravan heater fan runs only on high speed. Am I correct in assuming that this is caused by a burned out heater fan resistor? If I am correct, where is the heater fan resistor located? I understand the 1995 to 1997 Caravan and Voyagers are all alike. I looked behind the glove box and didn't recognize anything as being the resistor. The fan cover is there but if I took it off, I wouldn't know what the resistor looks like!.
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Im out of options, the guy who usually scans my car for me is nowhere to be found. I changed the blower resistor and the blower still does not stay consistently on. My next guess is a bad relay somewhere.
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Where blower resistor is located?
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2000 Alero. Wife reported to me she had no blower motor. I pulled the motor and it tested good. Next I replaced the resistor with one from auto zone. Now I have blower in all but the 5th and highest position. I suspect a bad new resistor but I left it for now because it's a pain to remove.
Could I have got a bad resistor? In my experience a bad resistor will give you high and nothing else.
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Ok, I've read about the blower motor resistor, and everyone says you should have HIGH speed on the fan.
2002 Excursion with digital display.
I turn the truck on, then turn on the blower. A small puff of air comes out then shuts off completely. I can hear the direction doors opening when i change between foot and face A/C.
Is this the blower resistor that needs changing?
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I have a 2004 pontiac grand prix gt. I read some where that some of these have the resistor and blower motor close together and that the molding or rubber that runs at the bottom of the windshield after time will leak water into the blower motor and resistor and cause a short. I believe this has been the cause of a lot of my issues with car shorting out. the other day had to have it towed for the first time in its 11 years and found out it was one of the j fuses arcing causing the car not to start.
It's already 267,000 miles.
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I'm looking for information and possible photo location for the blower motor resistor. My truck has climate control. I've looked under the dash on the passenger side and behind the glove box door and I've been unable to spot the location. Do I have to remove the plastic panel behind the glove box?
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Have a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
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I parked my 2003 f150 about 8wks ago, and at that time the blower had been running only on high then not at all, then only on high again.
As I need it to pull the boat up north next week, I purchased and changed the resistor. When I started it up the blower motor wouldn't run and eventually it started to smoke, so I pulled the wire connector to the motor.
Where I can find a procedure for motor testing, and removal as I think this is probably where I'm headed with this. There seems to be utube videos on everything else but not this. I may just have to go out and purchase a Hains or Chilton manual but I'm Scottish and always look for the free route first.
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