Caravan/Voyager :: Error Code P1491 Radiator Fan Control Relay On 2003 Dodge
Apr 11, 2008
Vehicle: 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 Litre
I also have my CE light on. Hooked up my reader and got the "P1491 Radiator Fan Control Relay" code. I have checked my rad fan fuse and it is okay. My attempt to locate the rad fan relay took me from the rad fan wire to a device that looks like a heat sink. It is located on the vehicle frame between the rad. and front grill. Is this the rad fan relay? If it is I'm not sure how I would replace it. It seems riveted to the frame.
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I'm using an innova 3100/abs tester and that's the code it throws back. The company is zero support, claiming it is an internal Dodge code that they have no info for.
The code is : 50FE
Is that any use to me, or did I buy this tester for nothing..?
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I have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan and while I was driving it stopped on me. It will turn on but once you put it in gear it will turn off and wont turn back on. I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump.
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My mechanic has diagnosed a trouble code P0601 (Internal Control Memory Fault) on my 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan. He and I feel the car is running fine. Do I need to get the PCM replaced (as I've been reading online) or can I drive it as is? We don't have emissions checks.
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Intermittent problem, occurred 4 times during past 4 weeks, always during wet/rainy/damp weather. Three times when car was sitting overnight, once at work in parking lot after a 12 hour work shift. Each time, the engine started 5 or 6 times then died like someone turned the key off two seconds after the engine started. Then the engine would not crank or turn over, just some clicking near the relay box under the hood. Lights, power windows, etc. all work fine. Battery voltage OK. Jump starting or battery charger makes no difference. Note: With key in "run" position, no display to odometer though all idiot lights light up like normal.
1st time, after about 15-20 minutes, car started. 2nd time, towed to my mechanic (who thought security system lock out) then a second tow to dealer. Dealer found power into power distribution center but none out. Replaced PDC. Car worked fine for 1 week. Same problem twice since repair. First post repair failure I had van re-towed to dealer. Of course, it started for them. Left overnight 2 more nights. Started for them every time. They say it is a "problem with computers" but they don't know exactly what. They also say the Alarm set Dash light is coming on with the rest of the dash lights and that is a no-no. 2nd post repair failure happened this morning. Tried locking door to reset alarm. No change. Locked doors, opened rear hatch. Lights flashed but horn did not sound. When car is working and I do that (open hatch with other doors locked), in addition to lights flashing, horn beeps! I also disconnected the positive battery terminal, waited 10 minutes, reconnected and attempted restart. No change. Car still won't start and odometer display does not work.
Van has 110,000 miles. Otherwise in fantastic shape and runs great (though only gets about 20MPG). Owned van for 2 months and have driven about 7,000 miles. 1st problem I've encountered (other than a very uncomfortable drivers seat - feels like a spring is sprung!)
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My father's 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan SE radiator fan runs constantly - even with the ignition off. He has to disengage the battery for the fan to quit running - what might be wrong?
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So my radiator fans were staying on until my battery died and my car was completely cooled down and off. I was told it was a sticking relay so I replaced it and the fans still won't come on. I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and the fans came on so I know its not the motors or anything.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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I'm about to put a new tailgate on a 98 Dodge Caravan. I got hit in the back and I bought a new back door at the junk yard. It looks pretty easy, but I thought I would touch base here and there are a couple of potentially tricky parts...
Does that wire bundle have a block somewhere that you can plug, or am I going to be splicing them one by one? (I don't have power locks. I have windshield wiper, back door inside light, license plate light, heat wires in the glass.) The other tricky part..changing the lock.
I think that's all.. the bolts and star screws look pretty straightforward. I got it used with 48k miles a couple years ago and I only have 75k now. It was a government car.
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I was riding down the interstate this morning and had my cruise control set at 70mph. all of a sudden the cruise just turn off. I went to hit the gas pedal and there was nothing. No check engine light or anything, no spit, no sputter. I pulled off the side of the interstate and attempted to start the van. the engine turns over fine, but no start. all lights, radio work fine. car has fuel. it did not run hot.
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I have a 2005 dodge caravan and today after taking my kids kids to school, I noticed white smoke coming from the hood of the engine. I managed to get home and check it out. With further inspection, smelled like some type of fluid is burning off I can't tell if it's oil or anti freeze. There seems to be some type of condensation in the inside of my van on the passenger windshield. I looked to check to see any leaks inside on the floor mat and underneath the van itself and nothing. What seems to be the issue?
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I have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with 58000 miles. The rear blower won't run with either the front controls or rear controls. I have checked the fuses and they looked ok.
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I did a tune up on my 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan only to find the engine is vibrating heavily. This tune up included a new coil pack, plugs and wires.
I did happen to notice a separate thing when looking at the Crankshaft Pulley that it seemed to be wobbling while the engine was running.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, My AC unit works great. With the heater, it will work for 2-3 minutes, at which point it starts to blow cool air. I can leave it running, but it never gets warm again, if I turn the fan off for 3-5 minutes, when I turn it back on, I get a good amount of heat that goes for about 2-3 minutes before blowing cold air again.
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I'm having electrical issues in my 2006 Dodge Caravan. It started with the radio not working (even though the lights around the nobs and buttons light up) and the lock button doesn't work until the van is started. Now, the windshield wiper won't turn off, even after the van has been turned off.
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I have an 02' Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 (not flex fuel) .I have replaced the battery, alternator, sparkplugs/wires, fuel pump, fuel filter. All over time and now when i try to start the van it turns over strong sometimes starting then stalls out immediately. When I try to crank it sounds like metal on metal. Check engine light stays on,but i dont have an OBD reader.
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Anti-theft alarm was triggered inadvertently and now won't allow vehicle to start. When ignition is turned there is just a click...does not turn over. Is there a reset???
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Drivers side not bowing hot air? We changed the blower motor and the resister on the passenger side. We hadn't tried to use the heat until last night when we needed the defrost and that's when we realized only heat on passenger side.
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When I drive through large puddles, or in the rain, my car doesn't turn. I believe this may be because my Splash Guard is missing.
I keep looking online to get a replacement, and they have one that looks exact, and another I have no clue if this would be the same or if it is a different piece all together.
The picture attached at 1.jpg is the one that looks exactly as the one that is gone from my car.
The second, is the one that I keep finding when I type in replacement splash guard.
Can this one be a proper substitute?
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I have a 97 dodge caravan engine 3.0. When I start to accelerate my engine fuse 20amp blows. I does not occur every time but yesterday, it did it 6 times and is now getting looked at. I am just curious on what causes this. I did recently have my spark plugs changed so I am thinking something may be arching.
I do have codes that previously came up for my fuel injectors (P0203, p0206). Another code I have is p1294 idle speed performance.
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I have an engine noise on my 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 engine. It sounds a lot like the grinding of a rotating part. It occurs at start up, momentarily, then goes away. If I drop it in gear and start doing low speed maneuvering in the driveway, it comes back. If I turn on the AC it comes back. In all cases, the noise goes away at around 1200 rpm.
The noise occurs again, when I shut the engine down.The engine performs and runs smooth and normal otherwise. No stalling, stumbling, or bad gas mileage to report.
I can "feel" the noise with my hand, when I put my hand on the ac compressor bracket, or the intake manifold, or the valve cover. I've tried the listening through the stick method, and it seems to be coming from the front area of the engine. But I can't be sure. It is something internal. Let me describe:
I thought it was my AC compressor or clutch going bad. The fact that my AC had stopped working well, and was making jet engine noises at high rpm supported me decide this. I replaced the compressor. The AC works great now, and the jet engine noises went away. But the grinding noise is still there. As described.
I wishfully thought it was the belt tensioner or idler pulley. I replaced both of those. Noise still was there. I pulled off the serpentine belt, and started the engine. It made the noise, very briefly as it started, then went away completely. It made the noise again briefly as I shut the motor off. So it's still there without any of the accessories turning.
The noise is loud and obnoxious at idle when under load. It just can't be good. I've read theories about similar sounding problems, saying they could be loose timing chain, bad oil pump, slapping pistons, crank journals, flexplate/flywheels cracked.
I'm going to try doing an oil system flush, and then I'll change it out with a little thicker oil. See if that makes any difference in the noise. Currently I'm running 5w-30 Mobile 1. I think. I'll let you know if it changes anything. I'm also thinking I want to make a short video of the car idling and making the noise for my video camera. I'll post that on youtube and link it here.
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