I have a 2005 Grand caravan with a 3.3L. Over the summer I was having issues with the transmission.Got the codes reaf, P0700 and P1726( I think). After this had an input speed sensor replaced and the TCM. The van worked for about 3 months, but now is acting up again. This time I got codes P0700 and P0704. Was told it was a clutch switch malfunction. Can't seem to find any details about this code.
View 1 RepliesThe first is a trans control system malfunction and the 2nd code(0740) is tcc circuit malfunction- but what exactly do these codes mean? and the o2 sensor needs to be replaced, it said bank 1 sensor 1- does that mean the one BEFORE the catalytic converter?
View 4 RepliesMy 1996 Caravan gauges do not work at all. I have checked the fuse(s), and thay are all fine.The rest of the van works just fine. The fuel, temp,tach, and speed gauges do not work. The odo does not show up either. What to do?
View 14 RepliesFirst, about a month ago the gas gauge started to malfunction. The low fuel light will come on and the gauge will show low even though it has nearly half a tank left. When will fill it the gauge only goes to 7/8 full.
Second, today is started stalling when I press down on the pedal. If I wait a few minutes it will restart. Has stalled twice but then will run fine.
97 2.4 caravan dies while driving. Its been going on for awhile, coded at o'riellys and autozone several times. It started with having the camshaft and crankshaft replaced. Problem solved for a few days but it always returned.It would restart a few minutes later then it got worse. I called it the 30 mile van 'cause that's all it would go before dying or not restarting immediately.
Go to the grocery store, have to wait another 30 minutes to go home. Then it started only going a few blocks before shutting down while driving. I replaced the o2 sensor, the shutoff and fuel pump relays and finally took it to a shop that engine coded it. On their advice, they said the codes were all over, jumping everywhere, we replaced the ECM. It went 5 hours driving great then died and immediately restarted. Again no dash codes.
Recently disconnected the battery, now rear window switch flashes whenever the door is opened and the hvac switches will not work for around 30 seconds, how to recalibrate the door/hvac system...
View 1 RepliesAll the electrical components that are controlled by the ignition key/switch (radio, power windows, wipers, AC/fan) sometimes don't work when I turn the van on. However, when the key is turned back into accessories position, everything works - never a problem then. I had the ignition switch replaced a few months ago and that seemed to work (didn't occur as often) but now it's back to the way it was before. Just about every time I need the wipers (when it rains), they don't work nor do any of the other things I mentioned previously.
View 5 RepliesThis is what I have done I have 5.4 168,000 on motor . I have codes p0401 p0701 p0704 and some others .I can run truck for about 15min and it starts to lose power .I can't go over 1500 rpm . I have changed egr cleaned throttle body checked for vacum leaks changed the dpfe . new plugs . I have had a misfire code on number 1 but that code has stopped . I have put new fuel filter .I have a cheap scanner I use and it probably won't give me what I want also I changed down stream 02 sensors .
View 14 RepliesMy wife's(who is in school out of state) 1998 Civic EX 2 door coupe with 127.7k miles has been showing the Check Engine light for a week now - had her get it checked at a local Meineke and the codes are P0700 and P0715 - also the D4 light is constantly flashing while she drives. There is no discernible issues/change in the driving experience except she says the engine sounds louder and sometimes it accelerates slowly. I believe Honda has a TSB on this (01-012). I saw a member on a honda civic forum was able to get this resolved under an extended emission warranty [URL]..... - so I called Honda customer care but they said the TSB does not apply to my 1998 Civic.
Is there something I am missing in reference to coverage from Honda for this problem - I see that the gentleman who was successful in getting this done from the dealer under an extended emissions warranty had a 96 Civic and someone mentioned 96-98 model years in the discussion on this issue. We have a baby on the way so will be buying a bigger car before the end of March - intend to keep this car as a secondary for occasional use (if the cost to fix this issue is not in the thousands) - so I am trying to figure out what makes the most sense :
1. Should we bring the car to a local dealer ? this one dealer said they will charge to diagnose and if I get the work done there - the testing cost will go towards repairs.
2. Drive the car as is - and try to find a local mechanic when I'm there next month.
3. Get a transmission drain and fill - believe a trans flush is not usually.
I have had a check engine light go on and off with P0700 and P0741 but since the flush day 3 it hasnt come back on and it was chucking with rpm doing small jumps... but now it does it in the mornings after sitting all night after a few chucks its fine for the rest of the day til the next day no check engine light so far, but transmission flush has worked a lot not as bad as before the flush.. So what else could be causing it? Its a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 274,000 kms.
View 24 RepliesI am the second owner of a 97 Cherokee 4.0 2wd. My overdrive works now and then. my check engine light is on. I had it scanned it throws 2 codes. p0700 and p0705. It has 147k and we already replaced the entire cooling system including flushing the engine and system thoroughly . Now it has been sitting for nearly 2yrs. just not sure what direction to go.
View 3 RepliesI have an 05 Elantra GLS auto transmission, ~83000 miles. Last Friday, the car was driving fine. I didn't drive it on Saturday, but when I started it up Sunday night, that's where the issue began. First, when I shift into reverse, the car makes a noise like as when you go over a pot hole. Idle RPM is around 800.
When I press the gas pedal, usually the response from the car to go forward is almost instantaneous, but now it take a second or two from the time I press down the gas pedal to when the car moves forward. The process is smooth though, no hiccups as it does that. Next, when I was driving on the highway between 70 - 80 MPH, the car's RPM was 4000 - 4500. It even sounds like the engine is "working harder" than it usually does. The 'Check Engine' light is also on with these codes: P0700 and P0885.
Another thing I noticed is that the car alternates between running fine and running with the conditions described above. If the car run with the symptoms described above, I shut off the car and restart it. Then it will run fine, but the check engine light will stay on. Then if I turn off the car and restart it, it will go back to the mode where I have the issues.
From some research, the P0700 code just means that the TCM has the actual code which is P0885. According to the tech manuals at [URL] ...., the P0885 has the following probable causes.
- Malfunction of the A/T control relay
- Malfunction of connector
- Malfunction of the PCM
The car actually ran fine today, with out any issues but the Check Engine light is stuck on. How to replace/service this PCM item? Or maybe this issue is covered under 100,000mile warranty?
Yesterday afternoon the "Service Engine Soon" light turned on in our '97 Town & Country (3.8L engine). A few minutes later (while I headed to Autozone to get the code read) the light went out. They were still able to retrieve 2 codes: P0700 and P1775. Internet searches suggest a possible bad solenoid pack for the transmission.
More background: The van has 161,000 miles, and the original owners got the transmission replaced at 40,000 miles under warranty (4 speed automatic). The transmission fluid was replaced (pan drop method) at about 153,000 miles and at 112,000 miles, etc., with Chrysler ATF +4 fluid. The van got new plugs and wires about 15,000 miles ago. (It also got a new radiator and hoses yesterday morning which I think is unrelated.) Another possible clue: On long trips sometimes the 2nd transmission shift will become slightly rough but it still shifts and after it has rested everything returns to normal. This occasional shifting issue has been going on for over 5 years and again when it manifests itself it is very slight.
We just purchased a 2012 Grand Caravan and was wondering where to get a key and program it. I know the key will be an arm and a leg if i get it from the dealer. Is there a tutorial that tells how to program it as well?
View 3 Replies2006 Caravan. Heat comes and goes every minute or so. Also noticed the temp gauge goes from normal operating range to cold and back again frequently. Hasn't overheated. Does that sound like a thermostat problem?
View 2 RepliesOn my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
View 13 RepliesI'm having trouble with my 96' 3.0L, its kind of crazy its intermittent and while driving the engines surges one or twice and then dies... when I try to crank it up again cranks but don't starts if I try again it wont even crank ( no starter winding up ) what I noticed is that is I'm driving when it dies my check engine light disappears for a while and if I connect my OBD 2 reader does not link up with the ECU if I wait a while and I crank it up again its starts and the while cranking up I can hear a bang noise from the engine compartment drives side and then after a couple of minutes dies again...
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Grand Caravan 3.8 that just stalled at a set of lights yesterday and have had it towed back to the shop here. I turns over and starts briefly then will die and then just turn over strongly. I cleaned the throttle body and IAC but this did not work. I connected fuel pressure tester and have no pressure when turn key on or turn it over.
The fuse and relay check out ok, so I'm thinking bad or clogged fuel pump.
I have a 2004 Caravan out back that I have used for other small parts to interchange before and was wondering whether or not the fuel pumps between these two are compatible. Be a lot of work to pull the one off the one in the yard, only to find out its not going to fit.
142k, having some problems lately, the van won't accelerate now and again, moreso when the engine isn't up to temp, but lately it's gotten more and more prevalent. I have done some recent and needed maintenance in hopes of fixing the issue, but to no avail so far. I've replaced the plugs and wires, air and fuel filters, and both upper and lower O2 sensors (first replaced the upper with a Bosch, almost immediately had problems with P0134 code, so instead went with a Denso, hasn't come back yet). I checked fuel pressure, 60 psi sitting in the shop, the cat doesn't seem to be clogged, and it idles fine all day long.
Problem resembles running out of fuel, or more maybe like I'm letting off the gas, but my cheap scanner says the TPS is working fine, and I was watching the TPS percentage as I was driving it was reading normally. As I'm accelerating slowly from a stop, it'll start to cut out around 30 mph, but speed doesn't seem to matter, if I accelerate sharply it just bogs and slows down, if it does shift up a gear, the rpms will jump to about 5k, then slowly decrease even if I've got my foot on the floor. I keep coming back to the fuel pump, but I don't have a long enough hose to have it connected while test driving. Considering removing the hood so I can prop the gauge up so I can see it while driving. I am getting a P0132 code now, but I'm more concerned with the accelerating issue.
Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.