Caravan/Voyager :: Bump / Violent Shudder Between 1 To 2 Transmission Shift


Feb 26, 2016

I am experiencing a very frustrating shift anomaly. 2003 T and C . Under certain throttle conditions ( usually light ) from a dead start I am feeling a bump/violent shudder between the 1-2 transmission shift. If I let off the gas, I can get the shudder to quit and then by continuing to accelerate , successfully complete the 1-2 shift.

Does not happen all the time and never under straight ahead med-hard acceleration. By nature , happens most of the time under light acceleration when turning a corner from a dead stop. Sort of feels like a loss of traction or something funky happening with the torque convertor. Have serviced the trans with new fluid and filter, new TPS, new plugs, wires, and coil pack.

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So here I am with my 1996 Dodge grand caravan that I purchased new in 1995 for a whopping 30k. Yeah hind site is 20/20 skip forward to mile 102k transmission fails completely. Had to have it towed in to shop, rebuilt tranny put in... skip ahead another 4 years to mile 173k and transmission fails again. Again on a tow truck to the shop and ANOTHER tranny rebuild. So now I am at mile 182k and transmission is making a horrible shudder and I have moved across the country away from original shop that did last trans repair (who says they only warranty if I come back to them) and I am possibly looking at another repair or replacement. What is the deal with these vans?

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2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT 4.0L 47K miles. I am having a bad issue with the brakes.

I have had to replace the front brake pads and rotors 3 times and going on the 4th time IN LESS THAN 47K MILES. The brakes seem to work fine in city driving where the streets are flat. The problem is when driving on any kind of a downhill grade. If you try to brake on a downhill slope the brakes shudder so bad that you cannot only feel the steering wheel shake, you can SEE it shake.

The Dealerships say the problem is warped rotors and everything is fine after installing a new set or turning the old set. After the 2nd set of "OEM" rotors supplied by the dealerships (two different Dealerships to be exact), I got fed up and installed top of the line NAPA Ceramic pads and Rotors, which do the exact same thing after less than a year/7k miles. This van is not a commercial vehicle, and is not overloaded or used for towing.

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My boss bought me a van, so we could start a detailing business, anyways, we got the van for . Not bad inside, and ran ok, boss didnt notice it wasnt shifting i guess. So it went straight to the shop, got new brakes, rotors, belts, plugs, and oil change. Boss did transmission flush on it to see if it would work, he said it shifted into second for him, but when i was driving home. It would not shift outta first gear.Check engine light is on. It is an automatic. I dont know what to do now,

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I was able to quickly diagnose the problem with our 99 T&C LXi w/3.8L.

Problem: No speedometer, wouldn't shift, check engine light came on.

Many posts suggested speed sensor. There are actually 2 of them. An input and an output. Both cost approx $20 each.

By removing the aircleaner box assembly, I had the best (relative word) access to the sensors. A 1" socket w/3" extension did the trick. I understand the access for 2000+ models is different.

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I have a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with the 3.8 and 135,000 miles. Whenever it is hot out and the engine has been running it is hard to shift either from park or back into park. Today it completely froze on me and I had to wait for it to cool down before it would shift into park. Temp out is about 80 today.

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Caravan/Voyager :: 2004 - Gear Shift Indicator Lights PDRNL All Lit Up On Start Up

I purchased a 2004 Chrysler Town & Country Dec 2003. I noticed an intermittent problem with my gear shift indicator lights PDRNL were all lighting up when I would start the vehicle in February 2004. I would have to play with the shift lever a few times to get it into gear.

On Feb 26, 2004 the vehicle would not start at all, would not even turn over. The vehicle had to be towed to the dealership. It had 3500 miles at the time. The error code was PO706 check shifter signal. They said it was the transmission range sensor and replaced it. I had no problems for 2000 miles until I was in northern Michigan and the gear shift indicator lights started doing the same thing.

I brought it to a local Chrysler dealership the next morning and they scanned the following codes PO1791 loss of prime PO705 check shifter signal BCM stored TCM message not received FCM stored TCM communication fault DSD stored incomplete power voltage. This dealership checked connections and wiring harness which were okay so advised me to take it back to my dealership at home since they would have to tear the whole van down to figure out what was wrong and any parts they would need would not get there before I left for home.

Luckily, I made it home with only one incident with these lights coming on. My dealership had the same error code PO706 and also PO444. Here is what their repair order states "DTC PO706 shift signal fault. Front pump allowing torque convertor to bleed down IPM internally shorted causing intermittent shift signal errors and PO444 and PO706. Scan and perform trans diag and fluid level full R & I the transmission R & I the pan and valve body replace the filter R & I the front pump and replace the front pump and torque convertor called STAR about intermittent loss of shift signal was told to replace the IPM. Replace the IPM (power distribution center) retest ok at this time."

So here is my question....I am very worried with all that I am reading about transmission problems and this van has only 6500 miles and all these parts that they have had to replace already is really scaring me!

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Since there is not dipstick for a 2008 GC with six speed transmission, how much transmission fluid goes back?

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My transmission is slipping when the engine is cold. Fluid levels seem fine. I do have a fluid leak that I monitor and add fluid when needed. It's an 05 touring with 167k miles.

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I have a 91 Grand voyager and it seems to be loosing transmission fluid somewhere but no puddles anywhere.It looses between 3/4 and 1 quart a month an shifts fine. Where could this be escaping at as I drive it? What do I need to look at since its not dripping anywhere an I snugged the pan an didn't see it there?

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I have a 1995 Plymouth Voyager se about a year ago the transmission started acting up, for no reason, it would just go it to First and never come out I would stop turn it off turn it back on again and it would be fine..then days later it would go by, it would do it again. it did this for a while and the good days would turn in to a mile or two then it just decided not to come out of first ever, during this, i took it to a trany shop and rebuilt the transmission it worked for a bout a half hour.

Final a mechanic friend checked the computer again and changed it out with another and it fixed it beautifully!!! ok well about a week ago a very odd loud obnoxious squeal started that sounded like a bottle rocket but not all the time, more often than not though. Before I got a chance to take it to my mechanic friend i was driving along and the transmission slipped in to first and wont that's it. i have been doing emergency trips in first gear and also the horrid squeal is gone. the thing have to be linked what should I try and i don't think its the computer, I really don't want to lose my van

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I just replaced the transmission in my 2000 3.3L Grand Voyager and now it won't start. It started fine when I drove it into the shop. The battery is good, the cables are ok. The starter worked good up to this point. I checked all the connections to make sure they are tight. I replaced the transmission because reverse went out.

When I turn on the key, the shift letters (PND32) appear on the instrument panel, but the little circle that shows what gear it is in does not appear. When you turn the key to the run position, the circle should be around the P to show it is in park.

When I turn the key to start, nothing happens. No clicks or anything. The next thing I am going to do is see if there is power to the starter when the key is in the start position. Where to start looking?

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Caravan/Voyager :: 97 - Transmission Vibration (Passenger Side CV Axle)

I have a problem with our 97 Grand Caravan, (3.3L, 41TE tranny) Its a vibration that seems to be coming from the passenger side CV Axle.... the transmission side of the universal joint on the new axle.

We started having problems with this in December, I've done most of the work myself but still had the problem... Vibrations that seem to start and get worse at around 35 - 55 MPH. I've replaced rims, wheel bearings, both cv axles, tires, brake pads & rotors, sway bar links and bushings, tie rod ends, (inner & outer) and ball joints. (about $1,200. in new parts & tires)

In April, I finally took it to several transmission shops and talked to the operators.... The shop I chose because I could relate to the owner and felt I could trust him. The wife and I knew it was a vehicle we couldn't replace for the price of a transmission overhaul and when the shop called and told me all was fixed by replacing the new cv axle on the passenger side I was ecstatic that the problem would be fixed.... I go ahead and rebuild the transmission anyway, (now @ 289,000 miles!) .... The wife and I want to get as many miles out of this thing as we can at this point and our daughter will be driving it to high school next year.

Anyway, I get the car back late on a friday evening.... by the time I got it home I knew there was a big problem.... I put it up on jacks in the garage and saw the passenger side axle was "Slamming" in and out of the transmission!!! I test drove it on a few more short trips and took it back a week later.

About 1 1/2 weeks later I get a call and the shop owner says it is the CV axle thats bad.... AGAIIN??? Lets see, I replaced the original axles. Then "they" replaced both axles after I returned the ones I put in for warranty (Autozone) and now a 3rd axle is bad too? He insists on a different brand of axle (Napa). So when I get the car back, I again am feeling some vibrations.... not nearly as bad as it was before, and put the car up on jacks again.

This time, I don't see the axle slamming in and out of the tranny but I see the vibration comming from the trany side of the CV axle. (passenger side axle again) and I notice some grey goop on the housing fitting that wasn't there before on the trany.... This is when I started having my doubts about the shop and what they are telling me. They just replaced the axle, didn't do anything in the tranny. To beat all, theres now a fluid leak somewhere and its staining the garage floor.

Its been over two weeks now and the shop owner called me to tell me that its again the passenger side axle thats bad and that its a seal somewhere tha'ts leaking so he's gonna have to pull the tranny to get at it. I told him what I saw when I put it up on jacks in my garage.... the vibrating CV axle on the passenger side of the tranny.... He assures me that if it were a bearing it would be making some noises. He's even sent the car to a trusted tire shop and they turned the rim on the tire or something.... he's doing everything he can to make sure the problem is taken care of.

I know what I saw under the car. Just the "passenger side" axle as it is coming out of the transmission housing is moving up/down/around and that's where my vibration is coming from. The end of the axles (tire side) were running true. What's involved in repairing the differential side bearings in these tranny's? I'm going fully loaded to the Transmission shop when its ready and I'm going to insist we look at it while its on the rack. I just need to know how to check these differential side bearings.

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Today I experienced a violent steering wheel shudder that I would describe as the old "death wobble" you hear about on solid axle trucks, Early Broncos, Jeeps, etc.

At 55mph, in a slight right hand turn, a little bit of a bump in the road triggered it. I held on to it as the steering wheel was rotating left and right a few degrees (maybe ~10deg) and it wouldn't stop until I slowed down to around 35mph.

I crawled underneath and didn't see anything obviously bad (tie rod ends, ball joints, etc).

Then I noticed when turning the steering wheel (with the engine running, but parked) I could feel it shuddering slightly as I turned it.

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