Caravan/Voyager :: Airbag Light Goes On And Off - Clock Spring Breaking In Steering Column
Jun 6, 2012
I drive a 2000 Grand Voyager with 260,000 miles on it. The airbag light goes on and off and I was told the clock spring is breaking in the steering column. Is there any danger to not having it fixed besides the airbag not going off when it is supposed to, like airbag going off when it is NOT supposed to or function damage to the car or electrical systems. I have mechanics tell me both yes and no. Any thoughts from people here? I'm trying to get as many miles out of it as possible without spending too much on stuff that doesn't need fixed.
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I have a 97 voyager. recently the airbag light has been coming on then off. now it is on all the time. In addition to the air bag light being on the horn and the steering wheel cruse control does not work. The fuses and relays are all good. I was wondering if the clock spring is the problem?
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2001 F250, 5.4, Replaced the clockspring and now my steering wheel feels very tight. After cornering, it doesn't come back on it's own, like something is rubbing. The face of the clockspring is slightly different than what was there.
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I recently had to put a clock spring inside the steering wheel. I aligned it and calibrated it, however, after this change, the VSC light keeps coming on. I have disconnected the battery, I have used the paperclip on the obd connector and calibrated, but it keeps coming back on after driving a few miles. The car runs great. Along with the VSC light, the vehicle warning light comes on also.
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2007 Grand Caravan SXT, 86K Miles
Factory Radio Clock, AM/FM, CD and Tape Player.
Radio and Clock looses power and completely shuts off and will not turn back on while driving. Miles driven does not seem to be consistent.
All other Electrical seems to work fine, overhead console, Wipers, Blower, Turn Signals, Head Lights, Instrument Panel all seems fine.
When car is shut off, Blower continues to run for a few seconds and then stops.
When car is restarted Radio/Clock magically comes back, clock is reset to 12:00 and radio is on AM.
Get some funny flashing of Idiot lights on cluster that to my recolection is not normal behavior. Once while my wife was driving it the Vehicle Theft Alarm Light came on when she started it up and it stayed on until she stopped and then started it back up when she left the store she was at. That has only happened once.
I checked the Battery Voltage while running and stopped and all seems normal. The Battery was new this December. I also checked fuses and there are none that are blown.
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I had the clock spring recall done last week and now when I turn my wheel almost to full lock for a tight turn, it has a little "chirp" when going past a certain point. I'll definitely bring it back to them to correct it, but I'm guessing no quick fix but I can easily remove my airbag and check from there.
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We have a 2001 Toyota Camry with 240,000 miles on it. At the last maintenance session, the dealer told us that the funny noise coming from the steering wheel is the "clock spring behind the steering wheel". The dealer would be happy to replace it for us...
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Adding cruise control to F350 XL I just bought. I got a steering wheel with the buttons. But I am having problems with the clock spring. Mine has an 8 wire plug with only 6 pins on the big plug and all of the clock springs I have found have only a 6 wire plug for the big one. Without changing my clock spring I have no where to plug in the cruise wiring. All have been for right year model with cruise and even tried different years but none will plug in under the dash.
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When i put on the brakes the steering wheel shakes and pulsates. Iam getting mixed info. One person I know said it is the brakes (front), another person said i need the alignment checked. yet another said Rotors, and still another said back brakes.... When i touch the brakes the whole van pulsates and the steering wheel shakes.
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This has happened twice now. I went to turn a tight corner and the power steering just went out. A moment or so later, it came back. Any conjecture?
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I had a VERY bad leak, to the point where I would fill it, an hour later it all leaked out. I had a mechanic work on it, and he rebuilt the PS pump, BUT the pulley was cracked, they DON'T make that size anymore. He put a bigger one on, only to find out, it was rubbing on my brake lines so I couldn't drive it! SO I had another grease monkey work on it, went through a few new pulley's FINALLY found one! BUT went through 4 Serpentine belts!!
After 3 months with NO VEHICLE, we finally got it all back together. BUT now it is not all lining up we couldn't tell until we had the belt on. it is about a 1/4 of an inch to much to the right.
I'm thinking maybe washers or spacers would work?
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
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ABS light is on and the auto trac is off and will not turn back on. What this could be?
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Changed oil on the 2014 grand caravan, replaced the filter. afterwards the oil light comes on at low rpm goes out when u accelerate, and the engine light is on. Took it to autozone, it is saying, that the oil sensor switch is stuck.
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The change oil light on my 2013 will not reset. I have tried the routine advised in the manual - turning key to on/accessory and depressing the gas pedal slowly 3 times turning to off and then starting but it does not work.
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The battery light came on, alt not charging. I have taken it off twice and had it checked, both times I had it checked it showed good, when I put it back on it charged for a bit and then the light came back on and it showed no charging at the battery. Second time the place checked it they ran the check cycle 4 times in a row to see if it had a problem when the electronics started warming up... still showed all green.
I thought perhaps the wires going to the alt, so I had the wife start the van up and I moved the wires around going to the alt to see if it made the batt light flicker, no joy. (real fun getting your hand back there while the van is running)
The large wire shows batt voltage where it hooks on to the alt, running or not...... the two prong plug that goes into the alt shows no voltage unhooked with the key on, and no voltage plugged in with the key on or running.
I have been told there is a control unit that controls the output of the alternator. I have checked every fuse in the fusebox under the dash and in the engine compartment. Fuseable link on big wire going to the alt should be good as I do get battery voltage to the alt from the battery, correct?
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I am about 600 miles from home and when I was driving on the intertsate the battery light came on. I am in northern Maine where there are long stretches of nothing. I checked to make sure the belt was on and it runs fine. When I got to civilization I shut it off and it started and the light went out. Now I don't know if I should trust it or try and get to a dealer 70 miles away?
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I'm working on a 2008 Grand Caravan SE 3.3L Brake warning light (!) on dash is on. Datastream on my OTC Genisys shows that the Brake fluid level switch is 'ON'.
The van does not have pad wear indicators; fluid is full; there are no leaks in the system; no brake pull, uneven braking or other performance issues.
Scantool says Park Brake is off and I disconnected it to be sure.
When checking connector at switch on the master, one wire has continuity to ground and the other has about 12.5V on the DMM but won't light my test light.
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Got 99 Grand with a issue. It'll run fine then you come to a stop light and it'll die. try to start it and it'll rev to 2000 rpm then drop to almost nothing then rev again then die. It may do this once or 2-3 times. If you keep your foot on brake and give it gas you can keep it running put it still revs. Once at highway speeds it runs normal. When you get home or wherever and shut it off for awhile it'll start and run normal. Had it in shop twice. No codes. Replaced pvc valve and hose, fuel filter. They said start replacing stuff till it stops. I don't go there anymore. Another shop said unless it does it for them they wouldn't know where to start. Of coarse every time it does it, by the time I get it to shop it runs fine. I can do brakes, axle shafts, bearings but electronic fuel injection stuff still baffles me.
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My check engine light came on today and while driving, the idle (RPM's) were very high. At about 80KMs, it was about 3500 and when I accelerated, the engine would race along with the RPMs. While stopped, idling seems fine. I couldn't get over 80KMs/Hr without the idle going too high.
What it could be? Haven't had time to check codes as it is long weekend and garages are now closed till tuesday.
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