Caravan/Voyager :: 3.3 Flex Revs Then Dies When Comes To A Stop Light
Jul 13, 2014
Got 99 Grand with a issue. It'll run fine then you come to a stop light and it'll die. try to start it and it'll rev to 2000 rpm then drop to almost nothing then rev again then die. It may do this once or 2-3 times. If you keep your foot on brake and give it gas you can keep it running put it still revs. Once at highway speeds it runs normal. When you get home or wherever and shut it off for awhile it'll start and run normal. Had it in shop twice. No codes. Replaced pvc valve and hose, fuel filter. They said start replacing stuff till it stops. I don't go there anymore. Another shop said unless it does it for them they wouldn't know where to start. Of coarse every time it does it, by the time I get it to shop it runs fine. I can do brakes, axle shafts, bearings but electronic fuel injection stuff still baffles me.
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2002 T&C, starts and idles fine. When we put in gear (drive or reverse) it dies. Then we can restart and it drives fine the rest of the day. This only happens when it has been sitting a long time, such as over night. However, I've let it sit until mid-day and it does it so it doesn't appear to be Temp or humidity related as it issue is repeatable at any time of the day as long as the vehicle has been sitting 12 hours or so.
The remainder of the day it drives without issue and we can restart 8-10 times during the day without issue, then the next day when we restart it, no matter how long it idles it cuts out when you first start to move and apply the gas. When you restart, it, it often doesn't happen again and I've never had to restart more than twice. Again, it runs fine other than this issue.
I've replaced the fuel filter and I put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. The pressure is within specs. I also watched the gauge as my wife backed the vehicle up and it died, but the fuel pressure didn't drop out. It is now showing a O2 Sensor code per Advance, but in reading other post, those can be misleading, so I wanted input before I just start throwing money at the problem
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Back in June I replaced all 4 brakes and rotors. Now all of sudden I hear a loud grinding noise in the front end only when I'm braking to a complete stop.
I took all 4 tires off and then took off the pads. The pads and rotors are all still brand new and have very minor normal wear. Also the calipers still look good.
I then put everything back together and went for a test drive. The grinding noise is still there. It's very loud and only when I come to a complete stop.
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A few weeks ago I took my 03 Caravan to a shop and they said my alternator was fine, but the Wal*Mart battery (which I assume is a piece of rubbish) reads a bit low. When the temperatures are about 25 Fahrenheit or below the engine will sputter a bit usually at stop lights and the headlights will dim then go back to normal brightness a few times.
Now that the temperatures are in the 40s-50s I am still having this problem, but not as pronounced and sometimes it happens rather randomly. There is now another problem to go along with it. If I have the steering wheel turned hard while backing up and am not pressing the accelerator I have almost had Edward (my name for the Caravan) stall on me instead of just sputtering. Sometimes I feel like the engine is surging a wee bit as I drive down the road if I have just let off the accelerator. In general the RPM seems a bit erratic at times.
The fuel economy is the same as ever, the belts are all new over the past year, spark plugs, and all that. Recently replaced the vacuum plugs where the cruise control would go as well.
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I have a 1998 gmc sierra 2500 truck when i start it it runs just fine but after i have driven it awhile when i go to stop as soon as i come to a stop the engine revs up and down and it dies it will not do it if i am in neutral or the engine is cold, what could be causing that....
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
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ABS light is on and the auto trac is off and will not turn back on. What this could be?
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Changed oil on the 2014 grand caravan, replaced the filter. afterwards the oil light comes on at low rpm goes out when u accelerate, and the engine light is on. Took it to autozone, it is saying, that the oil sensor switch is stuck.
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The change oil light on my 2013 will not reset. I have tried the routine advised in the manual - turning key to on/accessory and depressing the gas pedal slowly 3 times turning to off and then starting but it does not work.
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The battery light came on, alt not charging. I have taken it off twice and had it checked, both times I had it checked it showed good, when I put it back on it charged for a bit and then the light came back on and it showed no charging at the battery. Second time the place checked it they ran the check cycle 4 times in a row to see if it had a problem when the electronics started warming up... still showed all green.
I thought perhaps the wires going to the alt, so I had the wife start the van up and I moved the wires around going to the alt to see if it made the batt light flicker, no joy. (real fun getting your hand back there while the van is running)
The large wire shows batt voltage where it hooks on to the alt, running or not...... the two prong plug that goes into the alt shows no voltage unhooked with the key on, and no voltage plugged in with the key on or running.
I have been told there is a control unit that controls the output of the alternator. I have checked every fuse in the fusebox under the dash and in the engine compartment. Fuseable link on big wire going to the alt should be good as I do get battery voltage to the alt from the battery, correct?
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I am about 600 miles from home and when I was driving on the intertsate the battery light came on. I am in northern Maine where there are long stretches of nothing. I checked to make sure the belt was on and it runs fine. When I got to civilization I shut it off and it started and the light went out. Now I don't know if I should trust it or try and get to a dealer 70 miles away?
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I'm working on a 2008 Grand Caravan SE 3.3L Brake warning light (!) on dash is on. Datastream on my OTC Genisys shows that the Brake fluid level switch is 'ON'.
The van does not have pad wear indicators; fluid is full; there are no leaks in the system; no brake pull, uneven braking or other performance issues.
Scantool says Park Brake is off and I disconnected it to be sure.
When checking connector at switch on the master, one wire has continuity to ground and the other has about 12.5V on the DMM but won't light my test light.
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My check engine light came on today and while driving, the idle (RPM's) were very high. At about 80KMs, it was about 3500 and when I accelerated, the engine would race along with the RPMs. While stopped, idling seems fine. I couldn't get over 80KMs/Hr without the idle going too high.
What it could be? Haven't had time to check codes as it is long weekend and garages are now closed till tuesday.
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I had to replace the water pump on my dodge Grand Caravan, which was challenging, but I got it done. But now the engine light is on.... why would that happen? I did take off the filter hose, and unplugged the cord to move the air filter housing, but I plugged it back in when i re-hooked everything up. So now I am nervous that i did something wrong. Why the engine light would come on and stay on? water pump works, put coolant in etc.... no leaks.... so now i just need to figure out the engine light.
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I was able to quickly diagnose the problem with our 99 T&C LXi w/3.8L.
Problem: No speedometer, wouldn't shift, check engine light came on.
Many posts suggested speed sensor. There are actually 2 of them. An input and an output. Both cost approx $20 each.
By removing the aircleaner box assembly, I had the best (relative word) access to the sensors. A 1" socket w/3" extension did the trick. I understand the access for 2000+ models is different.
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I have a 97 voyager. recently the airbag light has been coming on then off. now it is on all the time. In addition to the air bag light being on the horn and the steering wheel cruse control does not work. The fuses and relays are all good. I was wondering if the clock spring is the problem?
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My door ajar warning light stays on and at the same time the warning bell/noise keeps going off. Is there something that I can disconnect to make the noise stop?
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The cruise control quit working on my 2007 Town and Country. The indicator light in the instrument cluster flashes but won't stay on. If I have the ignition switch on but the engine off the light will come on and stay on.
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I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
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98 dodge caravan 3.3L v6 ..... All lights work including driver's side tail lights. only problem is that when pressing brake pedal, the driver's side brake light does not light up. i changed the bulb and checked the brake light fuse under the hood, but it was fine (as i guessed since the passenger side and middle brake lights work). I took the assembly off and reseated the connector to the tail light assembly, but same issue.
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